300d transmission
300d transmission
(05-02-2011, 04:25 PM)aaa Passenger side right next to where the dipstick goes into the transmission. Define "will work", with what? Probably yes if I'm guessing your car right.
I have an 84 300D with a bad trans and found an 85 300TD with an assumed good trans
85 models have a different torque converter if I'm not mistaken but it's a more desirable one any ways higher stall speed or something
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
05-02-2011, 07:01 PM #4As long as it a turbo model I don't see any problems
85 models have a different torque converter if I'm not mistaken but it's a more desirable one any ways higher stall speed or something
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
05-02-2011, 10:15 PM #5We'll find out on the stall speed here shortly!!!
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
(05-02-2011, 05:18 PM)z!!!(05-02-2011, 04:25 PM)aaa Passenger side right next to where the dipstick goes into the transmission. Define "will work", with what? Probably yes if I'm guessing your car right.
I have an 84 300D with a bad trans and found an 85 300TD with an assumed good trans
They should swap just fine.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(05-02-2011, 05:18 PM)z!!!(05-02-2011, 04:25 PM)aaa Passenger side right next to where the dipstick goes into the transmission. Define "will work", with what? Probably yes if I'm guessing your car right.
I have an 84 300D with a bad trans and found an 85 300TD with an assumed good trans
They should swap just fine.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
So excited to actually drive the car, I've only had this one about a week but for me to buy, find the fix, and install in one week is really an accomplishment! Normally I will buy a project like this one and it'll sit for at least 6 months before I'll even begin to tinker with it! So if anybody has any ideas on the shifting funny please let me know asap
Thanks!
Ok so I just finnished installing the new transmission, but does anybody have any idea why it wouldn't shift correctly? In first gear if I take off normal it won't shift until I hit around 4k rpms but if I stomp down on it I will shift in to second at about a little over two? Also is shifts very rough.....
So excited to actually drive the car, I've only had this one about a week but for me to buy, find the fix, and install in one week is really an accomplishment! Normally I will buy a project like this one and it'll sit for at least 6 months before I'll even begin to tinker with it! So if anybody has any ideas on the shifting funny please let me know asap
Thanks!
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
Sounds like you need to adjust the vacuum modulator (top rear of Injection Pump), Bowden Cable (top of valve cover), and possibly the pressure modulator on the transmission (drivers side, just above the pan). I don't believe the directions are on this website, perhaps someone can link? I'm still trying to find the directions myself as I need to readjust the vacuum modulator on my car and don't remember the settings! Oh, and I'm assuming you have put in fresh fluid and filter as well?
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/Trans722VacMod
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
modulator instructions
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/Trans722VacMod
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
So I found a bunch of dry rotted vacuum hoses so I replaced those but still a bit of a rough shift, but it is a little better, I talked to the kid I bought it from and he said it always shifted rough like that so he assumed all diesels shifted that way. No wonder it jad a bad trans...... On the vacuum modulator do I just pop the little dust cap off and adjust is there? I read the other post but I don't quite understand what to do exactly...
http://dieselgiant.com/trannyleverreplace.htm
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
are the levers in that 3/2 switch worn down?
http://dieselgiant.com/trannyleverreplace.htm
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
(05-09-2011, 10:26 PM)larsalan are the levers in that 3/2 switch worn down?
http://dieselgiant.com/trannyleverreplace.htm
I don't have one o those, maybe that's why...
![[Image: 690809d1.jpg]](http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/alanzanelli/690809d1.jpg)
(05-10-2011, 09:14 AM)winmutt You can just delete all the vac crap on the valve cover.
What do I do instead?
Some pics of the car
![[Image: bfa2f1db.jpg]](http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/alanzanelli/bfa2f1db.jpg)
![[Image: 292a6193.jpg]](http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/alanzanelli/292a6193.jpg)
![[Image: 45bb327d.jpg]](http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/alanzanelli/45bb327d.jpg)
![[Image: e264b0c2.jpg]](http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/alanzanelli/e264b0c2.jpg)
(05-09-2011, 10:26 PM)larsalan are the levers in that 3/2 switch worn down?
http://dieselgiant.com/trannyleverreplace.htm
I don't have one o those, maybe that's why...
(05-10-2011, 09:14 AM)winmutt You can just delete all the vac crap on the valve cover.
What do I do instead?
Some pics of the car
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Mine always shifted rough when I would forget to plug the vac lines back into the 3/2 switch. But I guess if you have all that sorted then there is another issue.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
(05-10-2011, 07:13 PM)larsalan Mine always shifted rough when I would forget to plug the vac lines back into the 3/2 switch. But I guess if you have all that sorted then there is another issue.
I don't know that it's sorted.... Where all does that vacuum switch connect to?
Not for sure, but I'm sure somebody knows what is supposed to be done to delete them.
edit:
maybe you are just supposed to plug the lines related to the 3/2 valve?
http://peterschmidtransmission.com/vacuu...617_91.jpg
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Mine had just 2 lines coming of that 3/2 switch. One was black and one was white. I think one went to the pump/alda boost line.
Not for sure, but I'm sure somebody knows what is supposed to be done to delete them.
edit:
maybe you are just supposed to plug the lines related to the 3/2 valve?
http://peterschmidtransmission.com/vacuu...617_91.jpg
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Well I have plugged lines that I don't tink I need like the EGR an some other vacuum line that I found just hanging there I replaced the little vacuum check valve and everything I could think of to change out..... It still shifts really rough and late.... Does any body have any other places to check?
(05-07-2011, 10:36 AM)Biohazard Sounds like you need to adjust the vacuum modulator (top rear of Injection Pump), Bowden Cable (top of valve cover), and possibly the pressure modulator on the transmission (drivers side, just above the pan). I don't believe the directions are on this website, perhaps someone can link? I'm still trying to find the directions myself as I need to readjust the vacuum modulator on my car and don't remember the settings! Oh, and I'm assuming you have put in fresh fluid and filter as well?
Did you try that cable? I think more slack in the cable means firmer shifting and less slack is softer shifting.
Could be wrong. I believe they say keep it on the firm side of what you can handle.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
(05-07-2011, 10:36 AM)Biohazard Sounds like you need to adjust the vacuum modulator (top rear of Injection Pump), Bowden Cable (top of valve cover), and possibly the pressure modulator on the transmission (drivers side, just above the pan). I don't believe the directions are on this website, perhaps someone can link? I'm still trying to find the directions myself as I need to readjust the vacuum modulator on my car and don't remember the settings! Oh, and I'm assuming you have put in fresh fluid and filter as well?
Did you try that cable? I think more slack in the cable means firmer shifting and less slack is softer shifting.
Could be wrong. I believe they say keep it on the firm side of what you can handle.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Now, there is a black plastic line from your transmission pressure modulator that connects to your vacuum modulator on the IP. That needs to stay. The other port on the vacuum modulator needs to have the vacuum-in source from the vacuum pump line. Once that is all plumbed in, you can adjust your vacuum modulator on the IP.
With the engine off, make sure the modulator rod hits the full throttle stop or really close to it (its a little pin). If it is way off, adjust it closer using the threaded part at the bottom of the throttle rod. Once that is set, you can adjust the vacuum. There may be a small white plastic dome shaped cap on the side of the vacuum modulator. It covers the adjuster nut. If there is a cap, carefully remove it. If not, then no worries. This next part is way easier with a helping hand. You also need a vacuum gauge and something to space the adjuster off 10MM from that little pin for the full throttle stop.
MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE THROTTLE LINKAGE TO THE VACUUM ADJUSTER FOR THIS NEXT STEP!!
Check your vacuum reading from the main vacuum line, where it tee's into the small line. It should be around 20ish InHg at idle. If much lower, check the line to see if it is plugged or getting clogged. Reconnect the vacuum-source line and disconnect the black plastic vacuum line that goes to the transmission and connect your vacuum gauge to its port on the vacuum modulator. With the engine running at idle, use your spacer to hold the vacuum modulator lever 10mm from full throttle. You should have 10-15 InHg on your gauge. With the vacuum modulator at the full throttle stop, you should have 0-2 InHg on your gauge. You are more concerned with the 10mm position though at this point. With the engine idling and the 10mm spacer holding the vacuum modulator lever, loosen the lock nut and adjust the inner rod. This adjustment is a pain, is somewhat easier with a 2nd person, and should not be rushed. A little bit goes a long way on adjusting the inner rod. It's also a pain to get it set correctly and not have it move all over while the engine is idling and vibrating. Once you have the 10-15 InHg set, recheck the full throttle reading. At this point, you can turn off the engine and reconnect everything. Take it for a drive and see how it feels. If it feels ok, then you are done! If not, then you can readjust the vacuum modulator or take it a step further and adjust the transmission pressure modulator. Mine was ok with just the vacuum adjustment. The Bowden cable on mine is set to have just about 2mm of slack at closed throttle.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
From the pictures, it looks like your 3/2 switch is missing from the top of your valve cover. You have the cam part, that is the black plastic piece with the ramps that your throttle rods are connected to. I removed mine from the car in the middle of some other mods/repairs and have had to do some other adjustments.
Now, there is a black plastic line from your transmission pressure modulator that connects to your vacuum modulator on the IP. That needs to stay. The other port on the vacuum modulator needs to have the vacuum-in source from the vacuum pump line. Once that is all plumbed in, you can adjust your vacuum modulator on the IP.
With the engine off, make sure the modulator rod hits the full throttle stop or really close to it (its a little pin). If it is way off, adjust it closer using the threaded part at the bottom of the throttle rod. Once that is set, you can adjust the vacuum. There may be a small white plastic dome shaped cap on the side of the vacuum modulator. It covers the adjuster nut. If there is a cap, carefully remove it. If not, then no worries. This next part is way easier with a helping hand. You also need a vacuum gauge and something to space the adjuster off 10MM from that little pin for the full throttle stop.
MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE THROTTLE LINKAGE TO THE VACUUM ADJUSTER FOR THIS NEXT STEP!!
Check your vacuum reading from the main vacuum line, where it tee's into the small line. It should be around 20ish InHg at idle. If much lower, check the line to see if it is plugged or getting clogged. Reconnect the vacuum-source line and disconnect the black plastic vacuum line that goes to the transmission and connect your vacuum gauge to its port on the vacuum modulator. With the engine running at idle, use your spacer to hold the vacuum modulator lever 10mm from full throttle. You should have 10-15 InHg on your gauge. With the vacuum modulator at the full throttle stop, you should have 0-2 InHg on your gauge. You are more concerned with the 10mm position though at this point. With the engine idling and the 10mm spacer holding the vacuum modulator lever, loosen the lock nut and adjust the inner rod. This adjustment is a pain, is somewhat easier with a 2nd person, and should not be rushed. A little bit goes a long way on adjusting the inner rod. It's also a pain to get it set correctly and not have it move all over while the engine is idling and vibrating. Once you have the 10-15 InHg set, recheck the full throttle reading. At this point, you can turn off the engine and reconnect everything. Take it for a drive and see how it feels. If it feels ok, then you are done! If not, then you can readjust the vacuum modulator or take it a step further and adjust the transmission pressure modulator. Mine was ok with just the vacuum adjustment. The Bowden cable on mine is set to have just about 2mm of slack at closed throttle.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
Thanks I was able to fix it yesterday! And I fixed the a/c, but it blows the fuse after about 20 minutes so now i gotta chase down why
(05-12-2011, 10:48 AM)Biohazard From the pictures, it looks like your 3/2 switch is missing from the top of your valve cover. You have the cam part, that is the black plastic piece with the ramps that your throttle rods are connected to. I removed mine from the car in the middle of some other mods/repairs and have had to do some other adjustments.
Now, there is a black plastic line from your transmission pressure modulator that connects to your vacuum modulator on the IP. That needs to stay. The other port on the vacuum modulator needs to have the vacuum-in source from the vacuum pump line. Once that is all plumbed in, you can adjust your vacuum modulator on the IP.
With the engine off, make sure the modulator rod hits the full throttle stop or really close to it (its a little pin). If it is way off, adjust it closer using the threaded part at the bottom of the throttle rod. Once that is set, you can adjust the vacuum. There may be a small white plastic dome shaped cap on the side of the vacuum modulator. It covers the adjuster nut. If there is a cap, carefully remove it. If not, then no worries. This next part is way easier with a helping hand. You also need a vacuum gauge and something to space the adjuster off 10MM from that little pin for the full throttle stop.
MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE THROTTLE LINKAGE TO THE VACUUM ADJUSTER FOR THIS NEXT STEP!!
Check your vacuum reading from the main vacuum line, where it tee's into the small line. It should be around 20ish InHg at idle. If much lower, check the line to see if it is plugged or getting clogged. Reconnect the vacuum-source line and disconnect the black plastic vacuum line that goes to the transmission and connect your vacuum gauge to its port on the vacuum modulator. With the engine running at idle, use your spacer to hold the vacuum modulator lever 10mm from full throttle. You should have 10-15 InHg on your gauge. With the vacuum modulator at the full throttle stop, you should have 0-2 InHg on your gauge. You are more concerned with the 10mm position though at this point. With the engine idling and the 10mm spacer holding the vacuum modulator lever, loosen the lock nut and adjust the inner rod. This adjustment is a pain, is somewhat easier with a 2nd person, and should not be rushed. A little bit goes a long way on adjusting the inner rod. It's also a pain to get it set correctly and not have it move all over while the engine is idling and vibrating. Once you have the 10-15 InHg set, recheck the full throttle reading. At this point, you can turn off the engine and reconnect everything. Take it for a drive and see how it feels. If it feels ok, then you are done! If not, then you can readjust the vacuum modulator or take it a step further and adjust the transmission pressure modulator. Mine was ok with just the vacuum adjustment. The Bowden cable on mine is set to have just about 2mm of slack at closed throttle.
Thanks I was able to fix it yesterday! And I fixed the a/c, but it blows the fuse after about 20 minutes so now i gotta chase down why
(05-12-2011, 10:48 AM)Biohazard From the pictures, it looks like your 3/2 switch is missing from the top of your valve cover. You have the cam part, that is the black plastic piece with the ramps that your throttle rods are connected to. I removed mine from the car in the middle of some other mods/repairs and have had to do some other adjustments.
Now, there is a black plastic line from your transmission pressure modulator that connects to your vacuum modulator on the IP. That needs to stay. The other port on the vacuum modulator needs to have the vacuum-in source from the vacuum pump line. Once that is all plumbed in, you can adjust your vacuum modulator on the IP.
With the engine off, make sure the modulator rod hits the full throttle stop or really close to it (its a little pin). If it is way off, adjust it closer using the threaded part at the bottom of the throttle rod. Once that is set, you can adjust the vacuum. There may be a small white plastic dome shaped cap on the side of the vacuum modulator. It covers the adjuster nut. If there is a cap, carefully remove it. If not, then no worries. This next part is way easier with a helping hand. You also need a vacuum gauge and something to space the adjuster off 10MM from that little pin for the full throttle stop.
MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE THROTTLE LINKAGE TO THE VACUUM ADJUSTER FOR THIS NEXT STEP!!
Check your vacuum reading from the main vacuum line, where it tee's into the small line. It should be around 20ish InHg at idle. If much lower, check the line to see if it is plugged or getting clogged. Reconnect the vacuum-source line and disconnect the black plastic vacuum line that goes to the transmission and connect your vacuum gauge to its port on the vacuum modulator. With the engine running at idle, use your spacer to hold the vacuum modulator lever 10mm from full throttle. You should have 10-15 InHg on your gauge. With the vacuum modulator at the full throttle stop, you should have 0-2 InHg on your gauge. You are more concerned with the 10mm position though at this point. With the engine idling and the 10mm spacer holding the vacuum modulator lever, loosen the lock nut and adjust the inner rod. This adjustment is a pain, is somewhat easier with a 2nd person, and should not be rushed. A little bit goes a long way on adjusting the inner rod. It's also a pain to get it set correctly and not have it move all over while the engine is idling and vibrating. Once you have the 10-15 InHg set, recheck the full throttle reading. At this point, you can turn off the engine and reconnect everything. Take it for a drive and see how it feels. If it feels ok, then you are done! If not, then you can readjust the vacuum modulator or take it a step further and adjust the transmission pressure modulator. Mine was ok with just the vacuum adjustment. The Bowden cable on mine is set to have just about 2mm of slack at closed throttle.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
Cool! Glad you got that fixed! Good luck with the AC, hope that works out too!
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
I was paid to do these adjustments for good many years.Little bit of a short cut. Adj.vac.control valve to 9" vac,adj.trans. mod.to firm shift,adj. bowden cable 1/2 ball short at idle position.Cable adj.per mbz.May need to fudge up or down small amount on all adj.but has always been very close. Thanks Biohazard for typing all that!
(05-22-2011, 07:38 PM)Hercules I was paid to do these adjustments for good many years.Little bit of a short cut. Adj.vac.control valve to 9" vac,adj.trans. mod.to firm shift,adj. bowden cable 1/2 ball short at idle position.Cable adj.per mbz.May need to fudge up or down small amount on all adj.but has always been very close. Thanks Biohazard for typing all that!
Thanks for the tips! I can never remember the Bowden Cable adjustment. I'll recheck mine and adjust as needed. Pretty sure it needs re-adjustment.
Edit: Yup, was way off. Adjusted it to about a half ball at idle, will report back after I get lunch.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
(05-22-2011, 07:38 PM)Hercules I was paid to do these adjustments for good many years.Little bit of a short cut. Adj.vac.control valve to 9" vac,adj.trans. mod.to firm shift,adj. bowden cable 1/2 ball short at idle position.Cable adj.per mbz.May need to fudge up or down small amount on all adj.but has always been very close. Thanks Biohazard for typing all that!
Thanks for the tips! I can never remember the Bowden Cable adjustment. I'll recheck mine and adjust as needed. Pretty sure it needs re-adjustment.
Edit: Yup, was way off. Adjusted it to about a half ball at idle, will report back after I get lunch.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
So I barely had any tension on the Bowden Cable. Now I'm closer to the half ball worth and it is shifting better. I think I need to pull a little bit more tension though. Thanks again for the tip!
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
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