MW to M swap. Oil line?
MW to M swap. Oil line?
I have searched, but didn't find anything.
I am swapping the MW for an M-pump today(!!). But what to do with the oil line which went to the MW? Just plug it? There is nowhere to put it on the M.
I read that the M is fed oil through the camshaft, will that work when swapped to a engine which had MW originally?
Thanks
-rolfi
1980 Mercedes-Benz 300D (US-spec)
+BMW E12, E21, E28, E30 and E32
Hi.
I have searched, but didn't find anything.
I am swapping the MW for an M-pump today(!!). But what to do with the oil line which went to the MW? Just plug it? There is nowhere to put it on the M.
I read that the M is fed oil through the camshaft, will that work when swapped to a engine which had MW originally?
Thanks
-rolfi
1980 Mercedes-Benz 300D (US-spec)
+BMW E12, E21, E28, E30 and E32
Kordan pumpe montere du? større element?
i did just plug it. Because the m-pump got oil thru the camshaft.. But plug it and take it for an testdrive for some kilometres, and take out bolt where you can lock the ip cam. And see if there comes oil out of there.
Kordan pumpe montere du? større element?
I suspect the MW is the reason for all the problems I had. My parts-car had a M-pump, so that's the reason for the swap.
I want to get it running before I modify anything, so that will come later.
-rolfi
1980 Mercedes-Benz 300D (US-spec)
+BMW E12, E21, E28, E30 and E32
Thanks.
I suspect the MW is the reason for all the problems I had. My parts-car had a M-pump, so that's the reason for the swap.
I want to get it running before I modify anything, so that will come later.
-rolfi
1980 Mercedes-Benz 300D (US-spec)
+BMW E12, E21, E28, E30 and E32
I've got the MW out, now it's just a matter of getting the M in. I only have ~4 hours a day for this, and that includes driving to where the car is located, finding tools, figuring out how to do it, start doing it, and going back home. That's why everything takes time, when I'm doing it
-rolfi
1980 Mercedes-Benz 300D (US-spec)
+BMW E12, E21, E28, E30 and E32
Replacing the IP is hell. I'm familiar with working with limited space, but this is horrible.
I've got the MW out, now it's just a matter of getting the M in. I only have ~4 hours a day for this, and that includes driving to where the car is located, finding tools, figuring out how to do it, start doing it, and going back home. That's why everything takes time, when I'm doing it
-rolfi
1980 Mercedes-Benz 300D (US-spec)
+BMW E12, E21, E28, E30 and E32
(06-28-2011, 06:30 AM)rolfi Replacing the IP is hell. I'm familiar with working with limited space, but this is horrible.
I've got the MW out, now it's just a matter of getting the M in. I only have ~4 hours a day for this, and that includes driving to where the car is located, finding tools, figuring out how to do it, start doing it, and going back home. That's why everything takes time, when I'm doing it
I swapped mine mw with m pump in 1.5 hours
you dont need to take of the oil filter hosing like people think.(06-28-2011, 06:30 AM)rolfi Replacing the IP is hell. I'm familiar with working with limited space, but this is horrible.
I've got the MW out, now it's just a matter of getting the M in. I only have ~4 hours a day for this, and that includes driving to where the car is located, finding tools, figuring out how to do it, start doing it, and going back home. That's why everything takes time, when I'm doing it
I swapped mine mw with m pump in 1.5 hours
you dont need to take of the oil filter hosing like people think.
The crank is set 24 degrees before TDC. I managed to lock something in the IP with a screwdriver, but I have no idea what. I haven't really found any thorough instructions about this either, everything I have found says something different.
Stuck, lost, tired, out of patience... Bah, I hope the car catches fire... I've never felt so dumb, ever.
-rolfi
1980 Mercedes-Benz 300D (US-spec)
+BMW E12, E21, E28, E30 and E32
It seems like there is a HUGE difference between my engine and others. The info threads I find states that it's all easy, but there is just no space at all, anywhere. Now the timing is completely off, and this slot for the screwdriver to lock the cam seems impossible to find.
The crank is set 24 degrees before TDC. I managed to lock something in the IP with a screwdriver, but I have no idea what. I haven't really found any thorough instructions about this either, everything I have found says something different.
Stuck, lost, tired, out of patience... Bah, I hope the car catches fire... I've never felt so dumb, ever.
-rolfi
1980 Mercedes-Benz 300D (US-spec)
+BMW E12, E21, E28, E30 and E32
For pulling out the pump it is not necessary to lock the pump anyway.
61x pumps have marks on the front (only visible when the pump is out).
Align the marks before you put in the pump and take care that it does not move, but you can use a wheel bolt to prevent it from rotating during installation. The crank stays at 24degBTDC and cyl.#1 in compression stroke.
It is the rear screw at the pump that is hard to open but it's doable.
Tom
if you have a 617 engine the pump has no real locking device like the pumps for 60x engines have.
For pulling out the pump it is not necessary to lock the pump anyway.
61x pumps have marks on the front (only visible when the pump is out).
Align the marks before you put in the pump and take care that it does not move, but you can use a wheel bolt to prevent it from rotating during installation. The crank stays at 24degBTDC and cyl.#1 in compression stroke.
It is the rear screw at the pump that is hard to open but it's doable.
Tom
The rear bracket for the pump won't fit, for some reason. There is a big gap between the bracket and the pump. And yes, the bracket is the one that sat on the M-pump.
Thanks for all the help!
-rolfi
1980 Mercedes-Benz 300D (US-spec)
+BMW E12, E21, E28, E30 and E32
IT RUNS! Idles smooth, revs good etc. The seal between the oil filter housing and engine is ofcourse leaking... So I can't drive it just yet. I've ordered it, and it will arrive on Monday. Meanwhile we'll tune the pump so it delivers enough on the turbo engine. (It is from a N/A) and get everything just right, so that when I get the gasket it's just a matter of putting it on and start using the car again
The rear bracket for the pump won't fit, for some reason. There is a big gap between the bracket and the pump. And yes, the bracket is the one that sat on the M-pump.
Thanks for all the help!
-rolfi
1980 Mercedes-Benz 300D (US-spec)
+BMW E12, E21, E28, E30 and E32
(06-29-2011, 03:32 PM)tomnik if you have a 617 engine the pump has no real locking device like the pumps for 60x engines have.FYI read the FSM, some MW pumps had a calibration error or something from the factory and the mark is offset by a few tines.
For pulling out the pump it is not necessary to lock the pump anyway.
61x pumps have marks on the front (only visible when the pump is out).
Align the marks before you put in the pump and take care that it does not move, but you can use a wheel bolt to prevent it from rotating during installation. The crank stays at 24degBTDC and cyl.#1 in compression stroke.
It is the rear screw at the pump that is hard to open but it's doable.
Tom
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(06-29-2011, 03:32 PM)tomnik if you have a 617 engine the pump has no real locking device like the pumps for 60x engines have.FYI read the FSM, some MW pumps had a calibration error or something from the factory and the mark is offset by a few tines.
For pulling out the pump it is not necessary to lock the pump anyway.
61x pumps have marks on the front (only visible when the pump is out).
Align the marks before you put in the pump and take care that it does not move, but you can use a wheel bolt to prevent it from rotating during installation. The crank stays at 24degBTDC and cyl.#1 in compression stroke.
It is the rear screw at the pump that is hard to open but it's doable.
Tom
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
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