Hating on WVO, BioD, or any thing other than diesel?
Hating on WVO, BioD, or any thing other than diesel?
rebel1988us
Unregistered
02-19-2012, 12:32 AM
#1
I am asking because i want to get a mercedes diesel to do this very thing, plus i think mercedes is at the top of luxury even the old school ones
. I think you guys should be a little more open minded and help with solution not part of the problem. If someone buys a car and chooses to put something other than what you would into its gas tank than ok dont respond to that thread, just move on and read something else. They bought that car with there hard earned money and you tell them to buy a VW and destroy it with that crap doesnt help anyone, just causes problems. on that note anyone who has experience in this i would enjoy some advice as to car, motor and resource that would help me out in my journey to a diesel that never goes to the gas station.
Thanks for your time
No disrespect was meant by this just saying.
rebel1988us
02-19-2012, 12:32 AM #1Why do people on this forum hate on people who are using WVO or Biodiesel? I have done quite a bit of research and Rudolf Diesel, the inventor of the diesel engine, intended this type of engine to be ran on vegi oil or basically a renewable resource to act as an option to help brake our reliance on gas/ oil which is an unrenewable resource and is a lot less effiecent and just nasty and dirty in nature.
I am asking because i want to get a mercedes diesel to do this very thing, plus i think mercedes is at the top of luxury even the old school ones. I think you guys should be a little more open minded and help with solution not part of the problem. If someone buys a car and chooses to put something other than what you would into its gas tank than ok dont respond to that thread, just move on and read something else. They bought that car with there hard earned money and you tell them to buy a VW and destroy it with that crap doesnt help anyone, just causes problems.
on that note anyone who has experience in this i would enjoy some advice as to car, motor and resource that would help me out in my journey to a diesel that never goes to the gas station.
Thanks for your time
No disrespect was meant by this just saying.
02-19-2012, 12:53 AM
#2
The general purpose of this forum is the performance enhancing modification of Mercedes Diesels. Using cooking oils does not “performance enhance” these diesels. They have other benefits, but increasing performance is not one of their attributes.
In response to the statement you made about other other forum members opinions on the subject and the way they will host a discussion about it, you are not in a position to tell others how to conduct themselves on this site. You are a bit of a hypocrite when you make a statement like you already did.
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
Hello Rebel, welcome to the forum.
The general purpose of this forum is the performance enhancing modification of Mercedes Diesels. Using cooking oils does not “performance enhance” these diesels. They have other benefits, but increasing performance is not one of their attributes.
In response to the statement you made about other other forum members opinions on the subject and the way they will host a discussion about it, you are not in a position to tell others how to conduct themselves on this site. You are a bit of a hypocrite when you make a statement like you already did.
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
02-19-2012, 02:27 AM
#3
(02-19-2012, 12:53 AM)w123love Hello Rebel, welcome to the forum.
The general purpose of this forum is the performance enhancing modification of Mercedes Diesels. Using cooking oils does not “performance enhance” these diesels. They have other benefits, but increasing performance is not one of their attributes.
In response to the statement you made about other other forum members opinions on the subject and the way they will host a discussion about it, you are not in a position to tell others how to conduct themselves on this site. You are a bit of a hypocrite when you make a statement like you already did.
I think the attitude your are experiencing is that of lack of knowledge, also blaming problems that are caused by other things, on WVO, Biodiesel.
I agree that the main purpose of this site is performance and I am amazed at the things that are created by those here. But I also think there is room for alternative fuels, if Diesel prices go through the roof we won't be able to afford to run our diesels on fossel fuel.
I would have to argue the point that Biodiesel is not performance related. They just ran a F-100 Ford Diesel Truck at Bonneville and it ran faster on Biodiesel then Petro Diesel.
I think we all need to keep and open mind and be open to new ideas.
(02-19-2012, 12:53 AM)w123love Hello Rebel, welcome to the forum.
The general purpose of this forum is the performance enhancing modification of Mercedes Diesels. Using cooking oils does not “performance enhance” these diesels. They have other benefits, but increasing performance is not one of their attributes.
In response to the statement you made about other other forum members opinions on the subject and the way they will host a discussion about it, you are not in a position to tell others how to conduct themselves on this site. You are a bit of a hypocrite when you make a statement like you already did.
I think the attitude your are experiencing is that of lack of knowledge, also blaming problems that are caused by other things, on WVO, Biodiesel.
I agree that the main purpose of this site is performance and I am amazed at the things that are created by those here. But I also think there is room for alternative fuels, if Diesel prices go through the roof we won't be able to afford to run our diesels on fossel fuel.
I would have to argue the point that Biodiesel is not performance related. They just ran a F-100 Ford Diesel Truck at Bonneville and it ran faster on Biodiesel then Petro Diesel.
I think we all need to keep and open mind and be open to new ideas.
02-19-2012, 09:49 AM
#4
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
This is a great forum and my personal favorite. The debate is really well settled. Burning WVO will cause "junk" to be deposited. Period. It is just a matter of chemistry. HOWEVER, if properly purified and burned (heating to 160F or higher), then burning WVO is a viable solution to purchasing #2 diesel fuel. I ran it for almost 4 years and no problems. Did it cause some sort of premature engine damage ? I have no idea. I never noticed any. However, I will assume that it did for those who contend such a position. As such, I am very comfortable with some sort of premature engine damage in exchange for almost 4 years of buring WVO. Assuming I get my engine back at the auction, then I will resume burning WVO in that engine so that I will have more data and a longer period on grease. I think the real issue is the assumption of risk, the trade-offs, and whether or not burning grease is economically feasible. So far, from my personal experience, it clearly is. So, having said that, I generally agree with W123love in that Forced opinions are not the best. And, as noted above, welcome to the forum.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
02-19-2012, 05:24 PM
#5
(02-19-2012, 09:49 AM)Greazzer This is a great forum and my personal favorite. The debate is really well settled. Burning WVO will cause "junk" to be deposited. Period. It is just a matter of chemistry. HOWEVER, if properly purified and burned (heating to 160F or higher), then burning WVO is a viable solution to purchasing #2 diesel fuel. I ran it for almost 4 years and no problems. Did it cause some sort of premature engine damage ? I have no idea. I never noticed any. However, I will assume that it did for those who contend such a position. As such, I am very comfortable with some sort of premature engine damage in exchange for almost 4 years of buring WVO. Assuming I get my engine back at the auction, then I will resume burning WVO in that engine so that I will have more data and a longer period on grease. I think the real issue is the assumption of risk, the trade-offs, and whether or not burning grease is economically feasible. So far, from my personal experience, it clearly is. So, having said that, I generally agree with W123love in that Forced opinions are not the best. And, as noted above, welcome to the forum.
I agree with greazzer,
I too also run my car on wvo but I also understand the risk and know there is more work associate with running the car with an alt fuel.
sometimes i get a good batch of oil and the car runs great other times I can notice the difference in power, startup and general operation of the car.
the first diesel engine was intended to be run on oil but modern diesel are not, they are just not designed to handle the viscosity of the oil.
Purplecomputer
02-19-2012, 05:24 PM #5(02-19-2012, 09:49 AM)Greazzer This is a great forum and my personal favorite. The debate is really well settled. Burning WVO will cause "junk" to be deposited. Period. It is just a matter of chemistry. HOWEVER, if properly purified and burned (heating to 160F or higher), then burning WVO is a viable solution to purchasing #2 diesel fuel. I ran it for almost 4 years and no problems. Did it cause some sort of premature engine damage ? I have no idea. I never noticed any. However, I will assume that it did for those who contend such a position. As such, I am very comfortable with some sort of premature engine damage in exchange for almost 4 years of buring WVO. Assuming I get my engine back at the auction, then I will resume burning WVO in that engine so that I will have more data and a longer period on grease. I think the real issue is the assumption of risk, the trade-offs, and whether or not burning grease is economically feasible. So far, from my personal experience, it clearly is. So, having said that, I generally agree with W123love in that Forced opinions are not the best. And, as noted above, welcome to the forum.
I agree with greazzer,
I too also run my car on wvo but I also understand the risk and know there is more work associate with running the car with an alt fuel.
sometimes i get a good batch of oil and the car runs great other times I can notice the difference in power, startup and general operation of the car.
the first diesel engine was intended to be run on oil but modern diesel are not, they are just not designed to handle the viscosity of the oil.
02-20-2012, 01:06 AM
#6
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-20-2012, 01:06 AM #6My current batch of oil I think was especially bad or something, it clogged up my filter (~10 micron paper filter) after pumping about 10-12 gallons. However it probably has about 150+ gallons through it already, so I guess that could be the culprit as well
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
02-20-2012, 07:40 AM
#7
(02-20-2012, 01:06 AM)sassparilla_kid My current batch of oil I think was especially bad or something, it clogged up my filter (~10 micron paper filter) after pumping about 10-12 gallons. However it probably has about 150+ gallons through it already, so I guess that could be the culprit as well
How do you clean your grease ? You should be able to go 6-12 months on the OEM type of filter (or longer ?) Do you centrifuge it? I noticed that once you clean it, but then dump in about 5-10 gallons of water (make sure the grease cooled down) and blend that, then siphon off the water, the grease will look at least 50% lighter. Not sure why. I still heat it again to 180F and run that again thru the centrifuge. Never a problem.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
(02-20-2012, 01:06 AM)sassparilla_kid My current batch of oil I think was especially bad or something, it clogged up my filter (~10 micron paper filter) after pumping about 10-12 gallons. However it probably has about 150+ gallons through it already, so I guess that could be the culprit as well
How do you clean your grease ? You should be able to go 6-12 months on the OEM type of filter (or longer ?) Do you centrifuge it? I noticed that once you clean it, but then dump in about 5-10 gallons of water (make sure the grease cooled down) and blend that, then siphon off the water, the grease will look at least 50% lighter. Not sure why. I still heat it again to 180F and run that again thru the centrifuge. Never a problem.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
02-20-2012, 12:55 PM
#8
(02-20-2012, 07:40 AM)Greazzer(02-20-2012, 01:06 AM)sassparilla_kid My current batch of oil I think was especially bad or something, it clogged up my filter (~10 micron paper filter) after pumping about 10-12 gallons. However it probably has about 150+ gallons through it already, so I guess that could be the culprit as well
How do you clean your grease ? You should be able to go 6-12 months on the OEM type of filter (or longer ?) Do you centrifuge it? I noticed that once you clean it, but then dump in about 5-10 gallons of water (make sure the grease cooled down) and blend that, then siphon off the water, the grease will look at least 50% lighter. Not sure why. I still heat it again to 180F and run that again thru the centrifuge. Never a problem.
Ive heard using a centrifuge is the best way to go.
What i do is heat up the oil to 180 and then let it cool. I have a drain at the bottom of ky dirty tank to flush out the water/gunk. Then i heat it up again and run ot through a three pass filter 25 - 10 - 1 micron
Purplecomputer
02-20-2012, 12:55 PM #8(02-20-2012, 07:40 AM)Greazzer(02-20-2012, 01:06 AM)sassparilla_kid My current batch of oil I think was especially bad or something, it clogged up my filter (~10 micron paper filter) after pumping about 10-12 gallons. However it probably has about 150+ gallons through it already, so I guess that could be the culprit as well
How do you clean your grease ? You should be able to go 6-12 months on the OEM type of filter (or longer ?) Do you centrifuge it? I noticed that once you clean it, but then dump in about 5-10 gallons of water (make sure the grease cooled down) and blend that, then siphon off the water, the grease will look at least 50% lighter. Not sure why. I still heat it again to 180F and run that again thru the centrifuge. Never a problem.
Ive heard using a centrifuge is the best way to go.
What i do is heat up the oil to 180 and then let it cool. I have a drain at the bottom of ky dirty tank to flush out the water/gunk. Then i heat it up again and run ot through a three pass filter 25 - 10 - 1 micron
02-20-2012, 03:00 PM
#9
Greazzer dateline=‘1329741622’' I noticed that once you clean it, but then dump in about 5-10 gallons of water (make sure the grease cooled down) and blend that, then siphon off the water, the grease will look at least 50% lighter. Not sure why. I still heat it again to 180F and run that again thru the centrifuge. Never a problem.
You add WATER to it after you clean it??? I have never heard of this move. It seems like death to the whole process. My main goal is to eliminate all the water. I understand you siphon it off again but what the heck??
I have a cold upflow tank for settling then a centrifuge to do most of the work. Then a Racor marine centrifuging water separator/filter to do the final polishing job.
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
Greazzer dateline=‘1329741622’' I noticed that once you clean it, but then dump in about 5-10 gallons of water (make sure the grease cooled down) and blend that, then siphon off the water, the grease will look at least 50% lighter. Not sure why. I still heat it again to 180F and run that again thru the centrifuge. Never a problem.
You add WATER to it after you clean it??? I have never heard of this move. It seems like death to the whole process. My main goal is to eliminate all the water. I understand you siphon it off again but what the heck??
I have a cold upflow tank for settling then a centrifuge to do most of the work. Then a Racor marine centrifuging water separator/filter to do the final polishing job.
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
02-20-2012, 03:01 PM
#10
BTW it didn't clog up the filter in the car, it clogged up the filter I was using when pumping dirty oil into a clean tank.
I'm starting to think about using air pressure to pump the oil with, since pumping it by hand with a crank pump when its cold outside is no fun, and since I don't trust electric pumps this seems like the way to go
This post was last modified: 02-20-2012, 03:05 PM by sassparilla_kid.
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-20-2012, 03:01 PM #10When we get our oil it doesn't have any water in it so my friend and I both filter it cold. He uses a 5 micron cloth sock filter and has an electric pump running all the time, but since my setup is outside I have a manual pump and pump it through paper filters in-line. I don't really like this setup too much so I'm starting to think I should start looking at other ways I can do it, and add more filters haha
BTW it didn't clog up the filter in the car, it clogged up the filter I was using when pumping dirty oil into a clean tank.
I'm starting to think about using air pressure to pump the oil with, since pumping it by hand with a crank pump when its cold outside is no fun, and since I don't trust electric pumps this seems like the way to go
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
02-20-2012, 06:04 PM
#11
(02-20-2012, 03:00 PM)w123loveGreazzer dateline=‘1329741622’' I noticed that once you clean it, but then dump in about 5-10 gallons of water (make sure the grease cooled down) and blend that, then siphon off the water, the grease will look at least 50% lighter. Not sure why. I still heat it again to 180F and run that again thru the centrifuge. Never a problem.
You add WATER to it after you clean it??? I have never heard of this move. It seems like death to the whole process. My main goal is to eliminate all the water. I understand you siphon it off again but what the heck??
I have a cold upflow tank for settling then a centrifuge to do most of the work. Then a Racor marine centrifuging water separator/filter to do the final polishing job.
Yup, it is an extra step but it must get rid of the dissolved solids and the junk that the centrifuge cannot get out. I have sometimes ran my centrifuge at night, and let it run all night. Yes, it will clean out more and more miniture junk but nothing seems to clean like a good bath of water. The water that is left over will cook off at 130+F and I run the centrifuge again. The centrifuge set up was a little pricey, e.g., $500 but well worth every penny. I will never go back to the filter socks, et cet. All I can say about the water I drain off (at the bottom of the cone) is that the water has some sort of crap in it as it turns the water "dirty" and that is not grease. So, yes it adds another 30 minutes to my process but at 35 gallons of free fuel (less the costs of electricity and 5 -10 gallons of water) I am OK with another 30 minutes.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
(02-20-2012, 03:00 PM)w123loveGreazzer dateline=‘1329741622’' I noticed that once you clean it, but then dump in about 5-10 gallons of water (make sure the grease cooled down) and blend that, then siphon off the water, the grease will look at least 50% lighter. Not sure why. I still heat it again to 180F and run that again thru the centrifuge. Never a problem.
You add WATER to it after you clean it??? I have never heard of this move. It seems like death to the whole process. My main goal is to eliminate all the water. I understand you siphon it off again but what the heck??
I have a cold upflow tank for settling then a centrifuge to do most of the work. Then a Racor marine centrifuging water separator/filter to do the final polishing job.
Yup, it is an extra step but it must get rid of the dissolved solids and the junk that the centrifuge cannot get out. I have sometimes ran my centrifuge at night, and let it run all night. Yes, it will clean out more and more miniture junk but nothing seems to clean like a good bath of water. The water that is left over will cook off at 130+F and I run the centrifuge again. The centrifuge set up was a little pricey, e.g., $500 but well worth every penny. I will never go back to the filter socks, et cet. All I can say about the water I drain off (at the bottom of the cone) is that the water has some sort of crap in it as it turns the water "dirty" and that is not grease. So, yes it adds another 30 minutes to my process but at 35 gallons of free fuel (less the costs of electricity and 5 -10 gallons of water) I am OK with another 30 minutes.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
02-20-2012, 08:04 PM
#12
Ditto, my PA biodiesel set up was about the same with the 1/2 horse AC motor. Definitely worth it though, I set up mine with a timer so I can leave the house with it on. 30 minutes later it will shut off on its own.
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
Crazyiness but I am feeling enlightened. I am kicking myself for passing up on a opportunity to buy a clear cone settling tank locally.
Ditto, my PA biodiesel set up was about the same with the 1/2 horse AC motor. Definitely worth it though, I set up mine with a timer so I can leave the house with it on. 30 minutes later it will shut off on its own.
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
02-20-2012, 10:10 PM
#13
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
You can buy the steel cones from Turner out of Wisconsin. I bought 2 and I think they cost under $100 for both. Welding time was about 60 minutes and you have a total steel system: 55 gallon drum steel with steel cone. I got some pictures on the forum of my set up. Yup -- PABiodieselSupply from Pennsylvania. Paid for itself after about 125 or so gallons. Right now diesel is hitting $4 a gallon. BTW -- why no snappies or posts on your 4 speed ?
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
02-21-2012, 02:03 AM
#14
W123love's TDT
On Wednesday I will post more. I need to pull it again to do some aligning. I messed up on my first install of it. More info on that page.
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
If you look on my car’s page, you can see them. I only have photos of the stuff before the trans went in. Don’t worry i’ll get them in.
W123love's TDT
On Wednesday I will post more. I need to pull it again to do some aligning. I messed up on my first install of it. More info on that page.
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
02-21-2012, 07:25 AM
#15
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
I did ... just being impatient. My bad ...
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
11-26-2016, 08:17 AM
#16
charlysays
11-26-2016, 08:17 AM #16If I hadn't run my C250 TD on WVO for the last 5 years, I wouldn't have had any spare money to 1. obtain another C250 TD for a project car, or 2. been able to afford the £500 or so in parts I needed to do the stage 2 upgrades to it. So for me it has and continues to indirectly enhance the performance of my car by enhancing the performance of my wallet lol.
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