4 Speed Swap S123
4 Speed Swap S123
So my research tells me,
Then engine I have has the emissions stuff on the side of the IP and the air recirculation valve on the turbo. So I assume the engine is a 85. So I can either have a bearing shaved down 1mm (winmutt) or freeze it and bang it in.
Both flywheels ( auto & manual ) will have to be taken down and matched for balance also take note of witness marks even make some of your own.
The shifter linkage needs the thread extended 6" and then cut 4" off the linkage (depending on year transmission can be different)
The transmission cross member needs a new hole drilled in it at the bare minimum
The driveshaft needs to be shortend by 4" and have the 240d flange put on the end & balanced.
Anything else? Really would be nice if I can get this thing working so I can drive it...
So I got my wagon all back together after a rod gave way with a low miles engine which runs great, with the old automatic and well it decided to work for about a mile then the main pump went out ( no forward or reverse gears & no pressure in the cooling circuit ) so now I've secured funding for a manual swap + sls delete kit.
So my research tells me,
Then engine I have has the emissions stuff on the side of the IP and the air recirculation valve on the turbo. So I assume the engine is a 85. So I can either have a bearing shaved down 1mm (winmutt) or freeze it and bang it in.
Both flywheels ( auto & manual ) will have to be taken down and matched for balance also take note of witness marks even make some of your own.
The shifter linkage needs the thread extended 6" and then cut 4" off the linkage (depending on year transmission can be different)
The transmission cross member needs a new hole drilled in it at the bare minimum
The driveshaft needs to be shortend by 4" and have the 240d flange put on the end & balanced.
Anything else? Really would be nice if I can get this thing working so I can drive it...
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
03-17-2012, 06:09 PM #3You could get a break cylinder hone and bore out the crank it may take awhile but should be able to open it up
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
(03-17-2012, 03:39 PM)Kozuka ...
Then engine I have has the emissions stuff on the side of the IP and the air recirculation valve on the turbo. So I assume the engine is a 85. So I can either have a bearing shaved down 1mm (winmutt) or freeze it and bang it in.
...
It could be a Cali version '84 also and you wouldn't have to worry about the odd bearing size. If you have the engine serial number, I can tell you the year vehicle it came out of.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
03-17-2012, 10:17 PM #6(03-17-2012, 03:39 PM)Kozuka ...
Then engine I have has the emissions stuff on the side of the IP and the air recirculation valve on the turbo. So I assume the engine is a 85. So I can either have a bearing shaved down 1mm (winmutt) or freeze it and bang it in.
...
It could be a Cali version '84 also and you wouldn't have to worry about the odd bearing size. If you have the engine serial number, I can tell you the year vehicle it came out of.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
Id do that over the freezing method personally. Once the frozen pilot bearing heats up its just going to be expanding and reducing the life of the bearing since the space is still to small
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
If you have the crank problem, you could also us a GM pilot bearing and machine a bushing for the outside, since its smaller overall. The ID on a lot of 80s models are the same at the MB input shaft dimension.
Id do that over the freezing method personally. Once the frozen pilot bearing heats up its just going to be expanding and reducing the life of the bearing since the space is still to small
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
![[Image: enginenumber50.JPG]](http://dieselgiant.com/enginenumber50.JPG)
![[Image: enginenumber48.JPG]](http://dieselgiant.com/enginenumber48.JPG)
![[Image: enginenumber49.JPG]](http://dieselgiant.com/enginenumber49.JPG)
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
03-18-2012, 03:09 PM #9It's located between the oil filter housing and the engine block. The numbers are right below the cylinder head.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
(03-18-2012, 06:17 PM)Kozuka 617 952 12 095 696
My info states it was from a car manufactured either 11/84 or 12/84 which makes it effectively a 1985 model year. Unless someone changed out the crank, you most likely will have a non-standard sized bearing.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
03-18-2012, 08:08 PM #11(03-18-2012, 06:17 PM)Kozuka 617 952 12 095 696
My info states it was from a car manufactured either 11/84 or 12/84 which makes it effectively a 1985 model year. Unless someone changed out the crank, you most likely will have a non-standard sized bearing.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
I kinda like the boring out the crank idea the best so far since its almost there already and it keeps it stock and ends headaches, no machine shop access that I don't have to pay for. Already the flywheel will have to be balanced would rather not have a custom bushing made unless it could be done for like $30 or less. My experience with machine shops is you pay a premium unless you know someone, which I do not.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
03-19-2012, 03:45 PM #13Use a power drill and some kind of fluid usually you use break fluid for break jobs but a cutting oil should work best it may take a while to open it up enough 15-20 my guess I would get a really good digital caliper to measure it and the bearing and stop just short of the bearing size by a couple thousandths
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
(03-17-2012, 03:39 PM)Kozuka Both flywheels ( auto & manual ) will have to be taken down and matched for balance also take note of witness marks even make some of your own.1) highly likely the auto flywheel is already neutral (or really close), but definitely match mark it and have it checked and the new one matched
The transmission cross member needs a new hole drilled in it at the bare minimum
The driveshaft needs to be shortend by 4" and have the 240d flange put on the end & balanced.
Anything else? Really would be nice if I can get this thing working so I can drive it...
2) The auto 240D crossmember is the preferred direct bolt in piece for a w123 with turbo 5 cyl and manual box.
3) the 240D and the 300D outputs should be the same, if your auto box ame out of a 300SD, then it may be different, I seem to remember having to swap the tailshaft outta an auto I got from a 300SD to fit my 300D, but that may have been only for the speedo...I do know for sure the SD models with V8s have a larger flexdisc
4) pay attention to the linkages as you install them, I ended up messing up my reverse synchros by not paying attention to how the linkages were hooked up when I swapped in my 300GD clutch and flywheel when I was testing the trans while still on the jackstands, I ended up grinding reverse pretty bad when shifting into what I thought was 3rd...i.e. look at the levers and look at the shifter to make sure that when you shift, it actually moves the correct lever...I thought I had it right and then had that horrible gut feeling when that grind happened...rechecked it and to my horror discovered the mistake...
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
03-22-2012, 05:38 PM #14(03-17-2012, 03:39 PM)Kozuka Both flywheels ( auto & manual ) will have to be taken down and matched for balance also take note of witness marks even make some of your own.1) highly likely the auto flywheel is already neutral (or really close), but definitely match mark it and have it checked and the new one matched
The transmission cross member needs a new hole drilled in it at the bare minimum
The driveshaft needs to be shortend by 4" and have the 240d flange put on the end & balanced.
Anything else? Really would be nice if I can get this thing working so I can drive it...
2) The auto 240D crossmember is the preferred direct bolt in piece for a w123 with turbo 5 cyl and manual box.
3) the 240D and the 300D outputs should be the same, if your auto box ame out of a 300SD, then it may be different, I seem to remember having to swap the tailshaft outta an auto I got from a 300SD to fit my 300D, but that may have been only for the speedo...I do know for sure the SD models with V8s have a larger flexdisc
4) pay attention to the linkages as you install them, I ended up messing up my reverse synchros by not paying attention to how the linkages were hooked up when I swapped in my 300GD clutch and flywheel when I was testing the trans while still on the jackstands, I ended up grinding reverse pretty bad when shifting into what I thought was 3rd...i.e. look at the levers and look at the shifter to make sure that when you shift, it actually moves the correct lever...I thought I had it right and then had that horrible gut feeling when that grind happened...rechecked it and to my horror discovered the mistake...
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
Grinding out the crank took 3 days, 3 tools, & three sets of stones. Because of the position of the hole & shit tools, you really need a dial bore gauge. Probably could of got a bearing shaved or a s10 bearing & custom bushing for cheaper.
Don't buy LUK clutches because the pressure plate doesn't fit without modding... ( which I did )
The thread for the clutch master & slave is M12x1.0 & the thread for the shifter linkage is M10x1.5.
Went with AN -4 for the clutch 3,000psi rated. Hope my master works, it shot fluid out the top when I compressed it.
The machine shop did great, 156 grams out of balance. Started in neutral, smooooth....
I broke one of the aluminum shifter rod ends trying to get it adjusted to fit, took the one off reverse. Today I should receive new bushings & clips.
I'm hoping that tomorrow I will get my clutch line stuff so I can get this sucker tested out.
Reverse situation is I have to probably bend the end 30 or so degrees, lengthen the thread, & shorten it a few inches.
Well, a little update..
Grinding out the crank took 3 days, 3 tools, & three sets of stones. Because of the position of the hole & shit tools, you really need a dial bore gauge. Probably could of got a bearing shaved or a s10 bearing & custom bushing for cheaper.
Don't buy LUK clutches because the pressure plate doesn't fit without modding... ( which I did )
The thread for the clutch master & slave is M12x1.0 & the thread for the shifter linkage is M10x1.5.
Went with AN -4 for the clutch 3,000psi rated. Hope my master works, it shot fluid out the top when I compressed it.
The machine shop did great, 156 grams out of balance. Started in neutral, smooooth....
I broke one of the aluminum shifter rod ends trying to get it adjusted to fit, took the one off reverse. Today I should receive new bushings & clips.
I'm hoping that tomorrow I will get my clutch line stuff so I can get this sucker tested out.
Reverse situation is I have to probably bend the end 30 or so degrees, lengthen the thread, & shorten it a few inches.
(04-02-2012, 04:46 PM)Kozuka I broke one of the aluminum shifter rod ends trying to get it adjusted to fit, took the one off reverse. Today I should receive new bushings & clips.
Did that also...those things are stubborn little bitches. Luckily they were available locally.
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
(04-02-2012, 04:46 PM)Kozuka I broke one of the aluminum shifter rod ends trying to get it adjusted to fit, took the one off reverse. Today I should receive new bushings & clips.
Did that also...those things are stubborn little bitches. Luckily they were available locally.
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
Well it works, going to have to take my driveshaft to be balanced defiantly. My master shoots fluid when it wants too, going to get a rebuild kit. The parts diagram on epc is rather confusing for the shifter linkage. I got them backwards haha. Need my SLS conversion & a spring compressor now... Well & reverse..
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