STD Tuning Drivetrain Axle change procedure?

Axle change procedure?

Axle change procedure?

 
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sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
04-03-2012, 01:56 PM #1
The rear passenger side of my car recently started making a "clunk-clunk-clunk" noise when I decelerate, causing me to believe the cv joint is going bad. Luckily I have a new axle on hand that my friend gave me after he sold his Mercedes, so no worries there.

Is swapping axles a very difficult thing to do? How long should it take if every possible thing goes right?

Thanks folks

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
04-03-2012, 01:56 PM #1

The rear passenger side of my car recently started making a "clunk-clunk-clunk" noise when I decelerate, causing me to believe the cv joint is going bad. Luckily I have a new axle on hand that my friend gave me after he sold his Mercedes, so no worries there.

Is swapping axles a very difficult thing to do? How long should it take if every possible thing goes right?

Thanks folks


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

Simpler=Better
PORTED HEAD

2,127
04-03-2012, 02:30 PM #2
I've done it in a driveway from 6pm->2am. Probably took me longer because I was tired.


Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
04-03-2012, 02:30 PM #2

I've done it in a driveway from 6pm->2am. Probably took me longer because I was tired.


Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?

sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
04-03-2012, 02:40 PM #3
I guess I should try to get all of the stuff I'm gonna need to do it today, so I'll have everything ready and try to get it done tomorrow. Yeah 8 hours seems like a long time, I'm hoping if I start at noon tomorrow to have it done before it gets dark out. I'm still of the opinion there is no auto maintenance more difficult than changing a heater core in a 99' f-150

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
04-03-2012, 02:40 PM #3

I guess I should try to get all of the stuff I'm gonna need to do it today, so I'll have everything ready and try to get it done tomorrow. Yeah 8 hours seems like a long time, I'm hoping if I start at noon tomorrow to have it done before it gets dark out. I'm still of the opinion there is no auto maintenance more difficult than changing a heater core in a 99' f-150


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

JB3
Superturbo

1,795
04-03-2012, 04:02 PM #4
(04-03-2012, 02:40 PM)sassparilla_kid I guess I should try to get all of the stuff I'm gonna need to do it today, so I'll have everything ready and try to get it done tomorrow. Yeah 8 hours seems like a long time, I'm hoping if I start at noon tomorrow to have it done before it gets dark out. I'm still of the opinion there is no auto maintenance more difficult than changing a heater core in a 99' f-150

its fairly straightforward, basically one bolt on the hub, removing the diff cover, a clip, and then knocking that sucker out of there.

easier if you jack up the axle side of the car you intend to pull, which would give you more room to pop the splined part out with the suspension fully extended.

Dental tool works great for that axle clip inside the diff, but don't lose that little SOB on the street. Big Grin

1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van

JB3
04-03-2012, 04:02 PM #4

(04-03-2012, 02:40 PM)sassparilla_kid I guess I should try to get all of the stuff I'm gonna need to do it today, so I'll have everything ready and try to get it done tomorrow. Yeah 8 hours seems like a long time, I'm hoping if I start at noon tomorrow to have it done before it gets dark out. I'm still of the opinion there is no auto maintenance more difficult than changing a heater core in a 99' f-150

its fairly straightforward, basically one bolt on the hub, removing the diff cover, a clip, and then knocking that sucker out of there.

easier if you jack up the axle side of the car you intend to pull, which would give you more room to pop the splined part out with the suspension fully extended.

Dental tool works great for that axle clip inside the diff, but don't lose that little SOB on the street. Big Grin


1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van

larsalan
Superturbo

1,272
04-03-2012, 07:53 PM #5
I think that 6pm-2am is slightly excessive. There is some peachpart walk through about changing a diff that has some good related pics. Need to take a caliper off, and just a few bolts. Maybe some banging and grease to help the new axle in place. Also, I guess the cover has to come off the diff so that's need to be re-sealed and filled too.

Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
larsalan
04-03-2012, 07:53 PM #5

I think that 6pm-2am is slightly excessive. There is some peachpart walk through about changing a diff that has some good related pics. Need to take a caliper off, and just a few bolts. Maybe some banging and grease to help the new axle in place. Also, I guess the cover has to come off the diff so that's need to be re-sealed and filled too.


Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'

sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
04-04-2012, 06:45 AM #6
I saw the peachparts walkthrough, it was pretty thorough. I might get to it tomorrow, if not then maybe friday because I'm supposed to go get a suit or something on thursday afternoon and don't want to be all disgusting and what not lol.

I guess the things needed are as follows(?):
-tools and stuff obviously
-new axle
-diff oil
-sealant for the back of the diff
-dental tool
-metal detector or some sort of magnet for finding the clip after it returns from its trip into the upper stratoshpere, or some sort of shield to prevent it from flying off into the abyss

anything else? On the walk through it talks about using a drift to pound the axle out of the rear hub or whatever, are they usually that stuck? also, can the old one be rebuilt easily at home, because if so I'll do it and then just keep it on hand for when the other side decides to go lol

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
04-04-2012, 06:45 AM #6

I saw the peachparts walkthrough, it was pretty thorough. I might get to it tomorrow, if not then maybe friday because I'm supposed to go get a suit or something on thursday afternoon and don't want to be all disgusting and what not lol.

I guess the things needed are as follows(?):
-tools and stuff obviously
-new axle
-diff oil
-sealant for the back of the diff
-dental tool
-metal detector or some sort of magnet for finding the clip after it returns from its trip into the upper stratoshpere, or some sort of shield to prevent it from flying off into the abyss

anything else? On the walk through it talks about using a drift to pound the axle out of the rear hub or whatever, are they usually that stuck? also, can the old one be rebuilt easily at home, because if so I'll do it and then just keep it on hand for when the other side decides to go lol


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

04-04-2012, 07:37 AM #7
A hex socket (14mm) to remove the filling bung in the diff Wink

Undo the filling bung as the first step. You might end up looking realy bummed when the oil is out & the bung can't be made to move Big Grin
DiseaselWeasel
04-04-2012, 07:37 AM #7

A hex socket (14mm) to remove the filling bung in the diff Wink

Undo the filling bung as the first step. You might end up looking realy bummed when the oil is out & the bung can't be made to move Big Grin

Hercules
GT2559V

219
04-04-2012, 12:41 PM #8
Remember to remove old inner axle shim and re-install on new axle,or you will be doing that job THE SECOND TIME.
Hercules
04-04-2012, 12:41 PM #8

Remember to remove old inner axle shim and re-install on new axle,or you will be doing that job THE SECOND TIME.

sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
04-04-2012, 03:30 PM #9
I think I have the hex socket, I'll have to check.

Inner axle shim, I'll make sure to do that

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
04-04-2012, 03:30 PM #9

I think I have the hex socket, I'll have to check.

Inner axle shim, I'll make sure to do that


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
04-19-2012, 02:24 PM #10
Okay I plan on actually getting around to doing this this weekend. I've gotten a 14mm hex socket and dental tool, now I just have to go get some new oil for the differential and sealant for the back plate and I should hopefully be good to go!

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
04-19-2012, 02:24 PM #10

Okay I plan on actually getting around to doing this this weekend. I've gotten a 14mm hex socket and dental tool, now I just have to go get some new oil for the differential and sealant for the back plate and I should hopefully be good to go!


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
04-21-2012, 01:42 PM #11
Well my friend gave me an axle for an R107, good think I noticed they were different and then checked the part number online before doing anything more than jacking up the car and taking the wheel off, now I have to sell this one and buy a proper one

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
04-21-2012, 01:42 PM #11

Well my friend gave me an axle for an R107, good think I noticed they were different and then checked the part number online before doing anything more than jacking up the car and taking the wheel off, now I have to sell this one and buy a proper one


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
04-23-2012, 04:57 PM #12
I guess I actually had the right axle, apparently the r107 and w123 have a common part. Got it changed and no more "clunk clunk clunk" upon deceleration! Now I just have to fix my broken flex pipe again and there will hopefully be no more odd sounds emanating from the car lol

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
04-23-2012, 04:57 PM #12

I guess I actually had the right axle, apparently the r107 and w123 have a common part. Got it changed and no more "clunk clunk clunk" upon deceleration! Now I just have to fix my broken flex pipe again and there will hopefully be no more odd sounds emanating from the car lol


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

winmutt
bitbanger

3,468
04-23-2012, 07:32 PM #13
What gear oil did you use?

1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
winmutt
04-23-2012, 07:32 PM #13

What gear oil did you use?


1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42

sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
04-23-2012, 11:42 PM #14
I used some 80w-90 I think? Not sure of the brand, it was whatever the O'Reilly auto near my house had

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
04-23-2012, 11:42 PM #14

I used some 80w-90 I think? Not sure of the brand, it was whatever the O'Reilly auto near my house had


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

 
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