Older 4 spd swap pilot bearing problem?
Older 4 spd swap pilot bearing problem?
upon pulling the pres plate and clutch . i found quit a few springs blown to bits floating around in the mix . damaged not to extensive , but the pilot bearing was also floating around in its void between the flywheel and crank.
nothing was chewed up , and the flywheel bolts look like they were in a shell tumbler
my question is , if somebody has come across this before ?
either my shaft is 2 short (story of my life) or the pilot wasnt deep enough . this would be wrong i imagine because it does sit flush , and could be pressed in properly . it would need to protrude to mate up .
with this said this motor/tranny was a auto to manual swap that was app not completed properly.
would sourcing a bearing that was double the size , or having a friend macine a little adapter for the shaft be the best bet ?
im in the process of rebuilding an older 4spd, iron case slope back , mated to a 617.
upon pulling the pres plate and clutch . i found quit a few springs blown to bits floating around in the mix . damaged not to extensive , but the pilot bearing was also floating around in its void between the flywheel and crank.
nothing was chewed up , and the flywheel bolts look like they were in a shell tumbler
my question is , if somebody has come across this before ?
either my shaft is 2 short (story of my life) or the pilot wasnt deep enough . this would be wrong i imagine because it does sit flush , and could be pressed in properly . it would need to protrude to mate up .
with this said this motor/tranny was a auto to manual swap that was app not completed properly.
would sourcing a bearing that was double the size , or having a friend macine a little adapter for the shaft be the best bet ?
Anyway, my advice is to make sure it slides on nice and easy on the trans input before installing it in the pocket in the crank...
Also you can check the clearance for proper depth by using a straight edge across the adapter plate on the engine to see how far down the bearing needs to be by comparing the measurement from adapter plate to end of crank vs. the amount that the input shaft sticks out past the end of the bellhousing...
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
02-10-2013, 01:35 AM #3I would also check to make sure that the input shaft is really clean where it goes into the pilot bearing... I had a helluva time installing a different 4 speed onto my 617 a few months back (broke 2 pilot bearings before I tried to slip one onto the shaft and it was a pain(looked clean enough, but apparently wasnt)...add trying to get that sucker lined up with the trans coming in at a slightly weird angle and its not had to imagine overstrainnig that little bearing... after cleaning it up a little bit with emery cloth (read: slight polish to remove any dirt, old grease, etc.) the new bearing slid right on and the subsequent install was smooth as butter...
Anyway, my advice is to make sure it slides on nice and easy on the trans input before installing it in the pocket in the crank...
Also you can check the clearance for proper depth by using a straight edge across the adapter plate on the engine to see how far down the bearing needs to be by comparing the measurement from adapter plate to end of crank vs. the amount that the input shaft sticks out past the end of the bellhousing...
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
I would also check to make sure that the input shaft is really clean where it goes into the pilot bearing... I had a helluva time installing a different 4 speed onto my 617 a few months back (broke 2 pilot bearings before I tried to slip one onto the shaft and it was a pain(looked clean enough, but apparently wasnt)...add trying to get that sucker lined up with the trans coming in at a slightly weird angle and its not had to imagine overstrainnig that little bearing... after cleaning it up a little bit with emery cloth (read: slight polish to remove any dirt, old grease, etc.) the new bearing slid right on and the subsequent install was smooth as butter...
Anyway, my advice is to make sure it slides on nice and easy on the trans input before installing it in the pocket in the crank...
Also you can check the clearance for proper depth by using a straight edge across the adapter plate on the engine to see how far down the bearing needs to be by comparing the measurement from adapter plate to end of crank vs. the amount that the input shaft sticks out past the end of the bellhousing...
yeah everything is cleaned up , no real issues witht the pilot going into the crank/input. honestly i was kinda shocked to see it floating around inthere . ive always had to throw them in the freezer to put in the crank . or smoked to all hell , red dust , on removal.
ill get those measurements surf .
[quote='SurfRodder' pid='48645' dateline='1360478124']
I would also check to make sure that the input shaft is really clean where it goes into the pilot bearing... I had a helluva time installing a different 4 speed onto my 617 a few months back (broke 2 pilot bearings before I tried to slip one onto the shaft and it was a pain(looked clean enough, but apparently wasnt)...add trying to get that sucker lined up with the trans coming in at a slightly weird angle and its not had to imagine overstrainnig that little bearing... after cleaning it up a little bit with emery cloth (read: slight polish to remove any dirt, old grease, etc.) the new bearing slid right on and the subsequent install was smooth as butter...
Anyway, my advice is to make sure it slides on nice and easy on the trans input before installing it in the pocket in the crank...
Also you can check the clearance for proper depth by using a straight edge across the adapter plate on the engine to see how far down the bearing needs to be by comparing the measurement from adapter plate to end of crank vs. the amount that the input shaft sticks out past the end of the bellhousing...
yeah everything is cleaned up , no real issues witht the pilot going into the crank/input. honestly i was kinda shocked to see it floating around inthere . ive always had to throw them in the freezer to put in the crank . or smoked to all hell , red dust , on removal.
ill get those measurements surf .
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