om617 rack delete no rev
om617 rack delete no rev
07-28-2013, 07:50 PM
#1
I have put an om617.951 in my Jeep Tj and have done bigger exhaust,egr delete,alda adjusted and then removed(made most difference),26º timing.
All these mods have been an improvement except today I go to remove rack limiter as per forced instructions. Only other thing i did while in there is turn up high idle cw by 1/4 turn.
I start it up and it seems to idle better but i try revving it by hand and bwaaaaa bog city. If its floored then eventually it revs up. Like move throttle 7/8ths of its distance and THEN it decides to rev. It almost wants to stall with any throttle input.
What the hell?
Fuel filters are clean and fresh tank of fuel in there so.....my questions (besides what the hell?) are
do i need to readjust timing? Is there another adjustment i could do?
My guess is my motor is one of those that doesnt like the rack removal.
Thoughts? Anecdotes? Queries or quibbles?
Thx for a great forum and any help u might have.
NeoAnderson
07-28-2013, 07:50 PM #1Hi guys
I have put an om617.951 in my Jeep Tj and have done bigger exhaust,egr delete,alda adjusted and then removed(made most difference),26º timing.
All these mods have been an improvement except today I go to remove rack limiter as per forced instructions. Only other thing i did while in there is turn up high idle cw by 1/4 turn.
I start it up and it seems to idle better but i try revving it by hand and bwaaaaa bog city. If its floored then eventually it revs up. Like move throttle 7/8ths of its distance and THEN it decides to rev. It almost wants to stall with any throttle input.
What the hell?
Fuel filters are clean and fresh tank of fuel in there so.....my questions (besides what the hell?) are
do i need to readjust timing? Is there another adjustment i could do?
My guess is my motor is one of those that doesnt like the rack removal.
Thoughts? Anecdotes? Queries or quibbles?
Thx for a great forum and any help u might have.
07-28-2013, 09:40 PM
#2
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/thread-189.html
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
07-28-2013, 09:40 PM #2Check this guide out, it's another way to tweak the pump without losing teh limiter:
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/thread-189.html
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
07-28-2013, 10:52 PM
#3
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
07-28-2013, 10:52 PM #3Check your ALDA on top of the pump
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
07-28-2013, 11:29 PM
#4
I figured it out.
The rod that sticks out after removal of the alda was floating freely. In other words i didnt put the spring, washer and locking clip back on after buttoning her up. I guess it puts a certain amount of tension on the internal linkage to operate properly. I see now how the alda affects the rack.
Engine still lacks the low end i think it should have but overall better power.
Thx again.
NeoAnderson
07-28-2013, 11:29 PM #4Thanks for the replies.
I figured it out.
The rod that sticks out after removal of the alda was floating freely. In other words i didnt put the spring, washer and locking clip back on after buttoning her up. I guess it puts a certain amount of tension on the internal linkage to operate properly. I see now how the alda affects the rack.
Engine still lacks the low end i think it should have but overall better power.
Thx again.
07-29-2013, 07:47 AM
#5
(07-28-2013, 11:29 PM)NeoAnderson Thanks for the replies.
I figured it out.
The rod that sticks out after removal of the alda was floating freely. In other words i didnt put the spring, washer and locking clip back on after buttoning her up. I guess it puts a certain amount of tension on the internal linkage to operate properly. I see now how the alda affects the rack.
Engine still lacks the low end i think it should have but overall better power.
Thx again.
If you read through that longass document I linked you should be able to get more low end.
How's your chain stretch? retarded valves can make it sluggish. Are the injectors pop balanced?
Also, these engines are high revvers-you're never going to get cummins level torque at low rpms-but you will definitely beat gassers for low end.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
07-29-2013, 07:47 AM #5(07-28-2013, 11:29 PM)NeoAnderson Thanks for the replies.
I figured it out.
The rod that sticks out after removal of the alda was floating freely. In other words i didnt put the spring, washer and locking clip back on after buttoning her up. I guess it puts a certain amount of tension on the internal linkage to operate properly. I see now how the alda affects the rack.
Engine still lacks the low end i think it should have but overall better power.
Thx again.
If you read through that longass document I linked you should be able to get more low end.
How's your chain stretch? retarded valves can make it sluggish. Are the injectors pop balanced?
Also, these engines are high revvers-you're never going to get cummins level torque at low rpms-but you will definitely beat gassers for low end.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
07-29-2013, 08:14 PM
#6
(07-29-2013, 07:47 AM)Simpler=Better If you read through that longass document I linked you should be able to get more low end.
How's your chain stretch? retarded valves can make it sluggish. Are the injectors pop balanced?
Also, these engines are high revvers-you're never going to get cummins level torque at low rpms-but you will definitely beat gassers for low end.
I forgot to check chain stretch when i adjusted the valves but im sure its stretched(230 000 miles).
Injectors DEFINITELY need changing. #1 injector is hammering a nice tune so gonna try changing it with spares i have.
I read through the long ass document many a time but always skipped the m pump stuff cuz i didnt think it applied. Im a dummy. I read it now and for sure my torque control needs to be tweaked. I can physically see the rack holding/pulling back when i have the top cover off and rev it. If i use a screwdriver and move it in conjunction with the throttle then it revs the way its supposed to.
I dont expect cummins torque but i do know its supposed to be better than what it is.
So ya...torque control tweak, monark injectors and a chain is my plan.
Thx again!
(07-29-2013, 07:47 AM)Simpler=Better If you read through that longass document I linked you should be able to get more low end.
How's your chain stretch? retarded valves can make it sluggish. Are the injectors pop balanced?
Also, these engines are high revvers-you're never going to get cummins level torque at low rpms-but you will definitely beat gassers for low end.
I forgot to check chain stretch when i adjusted the valves but im sure its stretched(230 000 miles).
Injectors DEFINITELY need changing. #1 injector is hammering a nice tune so gonna try changing it with spares i have.
I read through the long ass document many a time but always skipped the m pump stuff cuz i didnt think it applied. Im a dummy. I read it now and for sure my torque control needs to be tweaked. I can physically see the rack holding/pulling back when i have the top cover off and rev it. If i use a screwdriver and move it in conjunction with the throttle then it revs the way its supposed to.
I dont expect cummins torque but i do know its supposed to be better than what it is.
So ya...torque control tweak, monark injectors and a chain is my plan.
Thx again!
This post was last modified: 07-29-2013, 08:16 PM by NeoAnderson.
NeoAnderson
07-29-2013, 08:14 PM #6(07-29-2013, 07:47 AM)Simpler=Better If you read through that longass document I linked you should be able to get more low end.
How's your chain stretch? retarded valves can make it sluggish. Are the injectors pop balanced?
Also, these engines are high revvers-you're never going to get cummins level torque at low rpms-but you will definitely beat gassers for low end.
I forgot to check chain stretch when i adjusted the valves but im sure its stretched(230 000 miles).
Injectors DEFINITELY need changing. #1 injector is hammering a nice tune so gonna try changing it with spares i have.
I read through the long ass document many a time but always skipped the m pump stuff cuz i didnt think it applied. Im a dummy. I read it now and for sure my torque control needs to be tweaked. I can physically see the rack holding/pulling back when i have the top cover off and rev it. If i use a screwdriver and move it in conjunction with the throttle then it revs the way its supposed to.
I dont expect cummins torque but i do know its supposed to be better than what it is.
So ya...torque control tweak, monark injectors and a chain is my plan.
Thx again!
(07-29-2013, 07:47 AM)Simpler=Better If you read through that longass document I linked you should be able to get more low end.
How's your chain stretch? retarded valves can make it sluggish. Are the injectors pop balanced?
Also, these engines are high revvers-you're never going to get cummins level torque at low rpms-but you will definitely beat gassers for low end.
I forgot to check chain stretch when i adjusted the valves but im sure its stretched(230 000 miles).
Injectors DEFINITELY need changing. #1 injector is hammering a nice tune so gonna try changing it with spares i have.
I read through the long ass document many a time but always skipped the m pump stuff cuz i didnt think it applied. Im a dummy. I read it now and for sure my torque control needs to be tweaked. I can physically see the rack holding/pulling back when i have the top cover off and rev it. If i use a screwdriver and move it in conjunction with the throttle then it revs the way its supposed to.
I dont expect cummins torque but i do know its supposed to be better than what it is.
So ya...torque control tweak, monark injectors and a chain is my plan.
Thx again!
07-30-2013, 10:13 AM
#8
This post was last modified: 07-30-2013, 10:14 AM by willbhere4u.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
07-30-2013, 10:13 AM #8removing the ALDA or adjusting it near max also helps low end by make the turbo spool faster. I always loosen the lock nut and turn the screw ccw until it stops and back just a smidgen then lock it back down.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
07-31-2013, 10:12 PM
#9
(07-30-2013, 10:13 AM)willbhere4u removing the ALDA or adjusting it near max also helps low end by make the turbo spool faster. I always loosen the lock nut and turn the screw ccw until it stops and back just a smidgen then lock it back down.
Alda was adjusted and ultimately removed.
May put it back on after adjusting torque control. We'll see.
NeoAnderson
07-31-2013, 10:12 PM #9(07-30-2013, 10:13 AM)willbhere4u removing the ALDA or adjusting it near max also helps low end by make the turbo spool faster. I always loosen the lock nut and turn the screw ccw until it stops and back just a smidgen then lock it back down.
Alda was adjusted and ultimately removed.
May put it back on after adjusting torque control. We'll see.
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