STD Tuning Engine Stripped oil drain plug/ oil air separator

Stripped oil drain plug/ oil air separator

Stripped oil drain plug/ oil air separator

 
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poleshady
GTA2056V

78
08-13-2013, 12:30 AM #1
So the drain plug in my new engine just spins never gets tight and drips oil, has anyone used over sized plugs from napa or anything? if so any specific one?

I dont wanna drop the oil pan and weld in a nut on or some hack job like that..

aslo ordered one of these last night for an oil/air separator. From what ive read around the inside is just hollow so ill add some media to collect oil.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/350810259604?ite...60&vxp=mtr
poleshady
08-13-2013, 12:30 AM #1

So the drain plug in my new engine just spins never gets tight and drips oil, has anyone used over sized plugs from napa or anything? if so any specific one?

I dont wanna drop the oil pan and weld in a nut on or some hack job like that..

aslo ordered one of these last night for an oil/air separator. From what ive read around the inside is just hollow so ill add some media to collect oil.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/350810259604?ite...60&vxp=mtr

Greazzer
Superturbo

1,278
08-13-2013, 09:02 AM #2
the oil pan is an incredibly easy fix on the om617 engine. the oil pan itself is under $25 bucks, with gasket, and new plug, you're looking well under $40.00 bucks. Removal probably takes 15 minutes, and that includes jacking up the car and putting jack stands underneath it. If you go that route, make sure 11 ft pounds max torque on the 17 hex bolts. I use RTV sealant spread to a fraction of a mm .... super thin on both sides. just a suggestion. Very easy fix.

Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020

visit:  www.dieselfuelinjector.guru

Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.

RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982.  Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
Greazzer
08-13-2013, 09:02 AM #2

the oil pan is an incredibly easy fix on the om617 engine. the oil pan itself is under $25 bucks, with gasket, and new plug, you're looking well under $40.00 bucks. Removal probably takes 15 minutes, and that includes jacking up the car and putting jack stands underneath it. If you go that route, make sure 11 ft pounds max torque on the 17 hex bolts. I use RTV sealant spread to a fraction of a mm .... super thin on both sides. just a suggestion. Very easy fix.


Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020

visit:  www.dieselfuelinjector.guru

Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.

RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982.  Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...

mxfrank
K26-2

36
08-20-2013, 08:18 PM #3
You can helicoil the pan in place, or any local garage can do it for you cheap. My suggestion to prevent this problem: never remove the sump plug. Suction the oil through the dipstick tube. It works well, and actually gets out more oil than the hole.

I'm not a fan of removing the crankcase vent. All you're doing is creating pollution, with no benefit at all.
This post was last modified: 08-20-2013, 08:19 PM by mxfrank.

1987 Mercedes 190TD
mxfrank
08-20-2013, 08:18 PM #3

You can helicoil the pan in place, or any local garage can do it for you cheap. My suggestion to prevent this problem: never remove the sump plug. Suction the oil through the dipstick tube. It works well, and actually gets out more oil than the hole.

I'm not a fan of removing the crankcase vent. All you're doing is creating pollution, with no benefit at all.


1987 Mercedes 190TD

poleshady
GTA2056V

78
08-21-2013, 01:05 AM #4
I changed it this weekend, turns out just the bolt was stripped. I wish I checked that before but oh well. It was a new engine to me and I didn't take it out before I filled it with oil to check.

I didn't get to it this weekend but when my car gets back to me, I shipped it today, I'll route it so that the crank vent goes to the seperator, and then to the intake so it doesn't get released to the environment, and the oil will drip back into the pan. It has all the ports for that already so might as well
poleshady
08-21-2013, 01:05 AM #4

I changed it this weekend, turns out just the bolt was stripped. I wish I checked that before but oh well. It was a new engine to me and I didn't take it out before I filled it with oil to check.

I didn't get to it this weekend but when my car gets back to me, I shipped it today, I'll route it so that the crank vent goes to the seperator, and then to the intake so it doesn't get released to the environment, and the oil will drip back into the pan. It has all the ports for that already so might as well

AlanMcR
mind - blown

400
08-21-2013, 11:40 AM #5
Definitely don't vent the crank case breather into the atmosphere. Aside from the heinous air pollution, why would one forgo the intake valve lubrication? The EGR has minor smog benefits but dumps soot into your intake. That will clog things up.
AlanMcR
08-21-2013, 11:40 AM #5

Definitely don't vent the crank case breather into the atmosphere. Aside from the heinous air pollution, why would one forgo the intake valve lubrication? The EGR has minor smog benefits but dumps soot into your intake. That will clog things up.

 
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