WTB W123 Alternator harness, (later '84-'85)
WTB W123 Alternator harness, (later '84-'85)
09-02-2013, 01:08 PM
#1
Please send pics as there are several styles...
Austincarnut
09-02-2013, 01:08 PM #1my alternator harness cooked itself and I don't have time to look around, does anyone have one up for grabs?
Please send pics as there are several styles...
09-03-2013, 01:38 AM
#2
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
09-03-2013, 01:38 AM #2Honestly your best bet is to make one with new, higher gage wire. One fat one to replace the two dinky ones M-B used that were barely enough to get the job done 30 years ago (I like to use 4 gage for that one). The other wire is just there to "tickle" the field and basically any 12v switched source should work. Trace the wire that's attaches with the push on/pull off plug connector and tap into it and run new wire as far as you feel like you need to. Not too much current on that one (field) so wouldn't worry about it too much. I also like to run a 4ga ground cable up to where the battery attaches ground to chassis and the other end as close to the alternator on the block as you can, usually do this to any car Ithink has a ground issue and most of the time it cures the problem.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
09-03-2013, 08:53 PM
#3
(09-03-2013, 01:38 AM)SurfRodder Honestly your best bet is to make one with new, higher gage wire. One fat one to replace the two dinky ones M-B used that were barely enough to get the job done 30 years ago (I like to use 4 gage for that one). The other wire is just there to "tickle" the field and basically any 12v switched source should work. Trace the wire that's attaches with the push on/pull off plug connector and tap into it and run new wire as far as you feel like you need to. Not too much current on that one (field) so wouldn't worry about it too much. I also like to run a 4ga ground cable up to where the battery attaches ground to chassis and the other end as close to the alternator on the block as you can, usually do this to any car Ithink has a ground issue and most of the time it cures the problem.
Yeah, I think I'm going to make one. 10 more min of work...
Austincarnut
09-03-2013, 08:53 PM #3(09-03-2013, 01:38 AM)SurfRodder Honestly your best bet is to make one with new, higher gage wire. One fat one to replace the two dinky ones M-B used that were barely enough to get the job done 30 years ago (I like to use 4 gage for that one). The other wire is just there to "tickle" the field and basically any 12v switched source should work. Trace the wire that's attaches with the push on/pull off plug connector and tap into it and run new wire as far as you feel like you need to. Not too much current on that one (field) so wouldn't worry about it too much. I also like to run a 4ga ground cable up to where the battery attaches ground to chassis and the other end as close to the alternator on the block as you can, usually do this to any car Ithink has a ground issue and most of the time it cures the problem.
Yeah, I think I'm going to make one. 10 more min of work...
09-04-2013, 12:06 AM
#4
(09-03-2013, 08:53 PM)AustincarnutYeah, it's super easy...PM me with your phone # if you need help and Ill do my best (may have to go look at the 123 to verify if necessary)(09-03-2013, 01:38 AM)SurfRodder Honestly your best bet is to make one with new, higher gage wire. One fat one to replace the two dinky ones M-B used that were barely enough to get the job done 30 years ago (I like to use 4 gage for that one). The other wire is just there to "tickle" the field and basically any 12v switched source should work. Trace the wire that's attaches with the push on/pull off plug connector and tap into it and run new wire as far as you feel like you need to. Not too much current on that one (field) so wouldn't worry about it too much. I also like to run a 4ga ground cable up to where the battery attaches ground to chassis and the other end as close to the alternator on the block as you can, usually do this to any car Ithink has a ground issue and most of the time it cures the problem.
Yeah, I think I'm going to make one. 10 more min of work...
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
09-04-2013, 12:06 AM #4(09-03-2013, 08:53 PM)AustincarnutYeah, it's super easy...PM me with your phone # if you need help and Ill do my best (may have to go look at the 123 to verify if necessary)(09-03-2013, 01:38 AM)SurfRodder Honestly your best bet is to make one with new, higher gage wire. One fat one to replace the two dinky ones M-B used that were barely enough to get the job done 30 years ago (I like to use 4 gage for that one). The other wire is just there to "tickle" the field and basically any 12v switched source should work. Trace the wire that's attaches with the push on/pull off plug connector and tap into it and run new wire as far as you feel like you need to. Not too much current on that one (field) so wouldn't worry about it too much. I also like to run a 4ga ground cable up to where the battery attaches ground to chassis and the other end as close to the alternator on the block as you can, usually do this to any car Ithink has a ground issue and most of the time it cures the problem.
Yeah, I think I'm going to make one. 10 more min of work...
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
09-05-2013, 12:03 AM
#5
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
09-05-2013, 12:03 AM #5I have an '85 at my house but yes just make one, youll be much better off
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
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