OM617 Loosing All Boost
OM617 Loosing All Boost
11-14-2014, 07:35 PM
#1
Our OM617 is loosing all boost at higher RPMs at about 65 - 75 MPH.
Vehicle is a 1985 Land Rover 110 powered by an OM617.
Configuration:
OM617 Turbo Diesel from a 1985 300D.
Originally had a Garrett Turbno, but had problems with it loosing all boost, so switched to a KKK from an OM617 that came from a 1983 300SD.
Turbo has a manual boost controller.
IP has stock settings.
Port at the rear of the Inlet manifold is connected directly to the port on the IP.
Running the smallish Land Rover intercooler used on their TDI with a W115 inlet manifold.
No EGR.
Removed the breather oil trap from the stock air filter housing and installed it as originally routed.
Using an air filter assembly from a 1993 Chrysler New Yorker.
Problem:
At about 12 - 14 PSI, the engine looses all boost and the gauge shows negative pressure until I pick my foot completely off the petal and wait about half a second, then can press again and build boost.
This is both annoying to myself and other drivers whose vehicles I am trying to overtake or are in front of.
The only side effect besides loss of power appears to be blowing crankcase oil out the front seal. Think this is the cause, but am not 110% sure. Lots of oil leaking out the front seal.
Any advice or ideas to remedy this issue will be most welcome...
This post was last modified: 11-14-2014, 07:45 PM by rdavisinva.
rdavisinva
11-14-2014, 07:35 PM #1Problem:
Our OM617 is loosing all boost at higher RPMs at about 65 - 75 MPH.
Vehicle is a 1985 Land Rover 110 powered by an OM617.
Configuration:
OM617 Turbo Diesel from a 1985 300D.
Originally had a Garrett Turbno, but had problems with it loosing all boost, so switched to a KKK from an OM617 that came from a 1983 300SD.
Turbo has a manual boost controller.
IP has stock settings.
Port at the rear of the Inlet manifold is connected directly to the port on the IP.
Running the smallish Land Rover intercooler used on their TDI with a W115 inlet manifold.
No EGR.
Removed the breather oil trap from the stock air filter housing and installed it as originally routed.
Using an air filter assembly from a 1993 Chrysler New Yorker.
Problem:
At about 12 - 14 PSI, the engine looses all boost and the gauge shows negative pressure until I pick my foot completely off the petal and wait about half a second, then can press again and build boost.
This is both annoying to myself and other drivers whose vehicles I am trying to overtake or are in front of.
The only side effect besides loss of power appears to be blowing crankcase oil out the front seal. Think this is the cause, but am not 110% sure. Lots of oil leaking out the front seal.
Any advice or ideas to remedy this issue will be most welcome...
11-15-2014, 04:49 AM
#2
(11-14-2014, 07:35 PM)rdavisinva .....
Problem:
At about 12 - 14 PSI, the engine looses all boost and the gauge shows negative pressure until I pick my foot completely off the petal and wait about half a second, ......
Maybe your turbo intake hose is collapsing ??
Try running it with the turbo intake open completely, no filter etc for a test.
(11-14-2014, 07:35 PM)rdavisinva .....
Problem:
At about 12 - 14 PSI, the engine looses all boost and the gauge shows negative pressure until I pick my foot completely off the petal and wait about half a second, ......
Maybe your turbo intake hose is collapsing ??
Try running it with the turbo intake open completely, no filter etc for a test.
11-15-2014, 04:21 PM
#4
Problem fixed.
Replaced the inlet hose with a more rigid one and all is well.
This post was last modified: 11-15-2014, 05:06 PM by rdavisinva.
rdavisinva
11-15-2014, 04:21 PM #4Thanks so much for the suggestion Petar.
Problem fixed.
Replaced the inlet hose with a more rigid one and all is well.
11-15-2014, 05:14 PM
#5
(11-15-2014, 04:21 PM)rdavisinva Thanks so much for the suggestion Petar.
Problem fixed.
Replaced the inlet hose with a more rigid one and all is well.
Is that a real fix? There should be no vacuum at all at normal conditions. Check if the air filter or something else is not clodged.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
(11-15-2014, 04:21 PM)rdavisinva Thanks so much for the suggestion Petar.
Problem fixed.
Replaced the inlet hose with a more rigid one and all is well.
Is that a real fix? There should be no vacuum at all at normal conditions. Check if the air filter or something else is not clodged.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
11-15-2014, 11:40 PM
#6
(11-15-2014, 05:14 PM)starynovy(11-15-2014, 04:21 PM)rdavisinva Thanks so much for the suggestion Petar.
Problem fixed.
Replaced the inlet hose with a more rigid one and all is well.
Is that a real fix? There should be no vacuum at all at normal conditions. Check if the air filter or something else is not clodged.
It is totally real. I've seen filters sucked shut by turbos when the filter is clean. If the filter isn't sized correctly or the intake tube is weak it can be sucked shut.
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(11-15-2014, 05:14 PM)starynovy(11-15-2014, 04:21 PM)rdavisinva Thanks so much for the suggestion Petar.
Problem fixed.
Replaced the inlet hose with a more rigid one and all is well.
Is that a real fix? There should be no vacuum at all at normal conditions. Check if the air filter or something else is not clodged.
It is totally real. I've seen filters sucked shut by turbos when the filter is clean. If the filter isn't sized correctly or the intake tube is weak it can be sucked shut.
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
11-16-2014, 10:15 AM
#7
(11-15-2014, 11:40 PM)MFSuper90(11-15-2014, 05:14 PM)starynovy(11-15-2014, 04:21 PM)rdavisinva Thanks so much for the suggestion Petar.
Problem fixed.
Replaced the inlet hose with a more rigid one and all is well.
Is that a real fix? There should be no vacuum at all at normal conditions. Check if the air filter or something else is not clodged.
It is totally real. I've seen filters sucked shut by turbos when the filter is clean. If the filter isn't sized correctly or the intake tube is weak it can be sucked shut.
Yes the intake hose was very flimsey almost completely collapsing sealing off the inlet to the turbo which accounts for the negative pressure.
Yesterdays test drive had me at 75 MPH on the highway with 14 lbs of consistent boost something the Land Rover 110 wouldn't do before.
The loss of boost no longer happens.
I removed the stock catch can assembly from the stock air filter during the install a year ago and one of the tabs was not bent over all the way to secure the top tightly.
Found this and also fixed it then installed an inline liquid trap commonly used on an air compressor in the line from the catch can to the air filter to cut down on any crankcase oil making it's way to the air filter and installed a new air filter element. So far everything is working and no real oil leaks. The air filter was for a larger displacement gasoline engine and seems to have more than enough flow.
Thanks so much for the advice...
This forum has been very helpful.
My next step will be to adjust the IP which has stock settings, but want to do this slowly and carefully.
In the past have adjusted other less complicated rotary pumps by changing the one fuel setting and adding a manual boost controller.
There are so many settings am not sure where to begin with the OM617.
.
This post was last modified: 11-16-2014, 10:21 AM by rdavisinva.
rdavisinva
11-16-2014, 10:15 AM #7(11-15-2014, 11:40 PM)MFSuper90(11-15-2014, 05:14 PM)starynovy(11-15-2014, 04:21 PM)rdavisinva Thanks so much for the suggestion Petar.
Problem fixed.
Replaced the inlet hose with a more rigid one and all is well.
Is that a real fix? There should be no vacuum at all at normal conditions. Check if the air filter or something else is not clodged.
It is totally real. I've seen filters sucked shut by turbos when the filter is clean. If the filter isn't sized correctly or the intake tube is weak it can be sucked shut.
Yes the intake hose was very flimsey almost completely collapsing sealing off the inlet to the turbo which accounts for the negative pressure.
Yesterdays test drive had me at 75 MPH on the highway with 14 lbs of consistent boost something the Land Rover 110 wouldn't do before.
The loss of boost no longer happens.
I removed the stock catch can assembly from the stock air filter during the install a year ago and one of the tabs was not bent over all the way to secure the top tightly.
Found this and also fixed it then installed an inline liquid trap commonly used on an air compressor in the line from the catch can to the air filter to cut down on any crankcase oil making it's way to the air filter and installed a new air filter element. So far everything is working and no real oil leaks. The air filter was for a larger displacement gasoline engine and seems to have more than enough flow.
Thanks so much for the advice...
This forum has been very helpful.
My next step will be to adjust the IP which has stock settings, but want to do this slowly and carefully.
In the past have adjusted other less complicated rotary pumps by changing the one fuel setting and adding a manual boost controller.
There are so many settings am not sure where to begin with the OM617.
.
11-16-2014, 02:48 PM
#8
3 full turns of the Torque Capsule.
Max adjustment of the rack limiter.
max rpm turned in 1/4-1/2 turn.
then give your idle about 1/8 to 1/4 turn.
Now the only thing you will have to do is adjust the minimum throttle tension (vertical throttle stop) out several turns to make it to return to idle.
You can even go more with the torque if you'd like. I am at 5-6 turns in, and the only problem I have is that I need to adjust my idle up a touch.
Warning: Things can get pretty warm with more than 3 turns in. We did 5 turns on my buddies 300SD and that little KKK exhaust housing turned grey after a hard run...
Now that being said. Those are the adjustments to my pump, they might be a decent baseline, but that is just what I have experienced when tuning my pump.
This post was last modified: 11-16-2014, 07:02 PM by MFSuper90.
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Here is a baseline for my MW pump adjustments I have done.
3 full turns of the Torque Capsule.
Max adjustment of the rack limiter.
max rpm turned in 1/4-1/2 turn.
then give your idle about 1/8 to 1/4 turn.
Now the only thing you will have to do is adjust the minimum throttle tension (vertical throttle stop) out several turns to make it to return to idle.
You can even go more with the torque if you'd like. I am at 5-6 turns in, and the only problem I have is that I need to adjust my idle up a touch.
Warning: Things can get pretty warm with more than 3 turns in. We did 5 turns on my buddies 300SD and that little KKK exhaust housing turned grey after a hard run...
Now that being said. Those are the adjustments to my pump, they might be a decent baseline, but that is just what I have experienced when tuning my pump.
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
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