Offset keyway for cams on OM606
Offset keyway for cams on OM606
It's been a while since I put in my regrinded cams in so i dont remember if its even possible on the setup but do they sell offset keyways for the cams? If i remember they may have just been bolted on? Just want to advance my cam and see if i can gain some low end back since i am going bigger on my turbo anyways. Maybe take out some of the overlap too and see how it does.
I wouldn't take the overlap out, overlap is good! Even on turbo'd engines. It helps blow the spent exhaust out and get a cleaner intake charge.
You can buy offset keys, you just need what size it is. If you wanna save a couple bucks and you can weld, just make your own, it's really not as precise as you think. A friend of mine welds his keys up and grinds them back to whatever degree he wants for his IH DT466, and it makes around 12-1300hp.
What's your cam degreed to now?
Overlap is know to cool the charge though and cause lag. I want some of my low end back. After i put my cams in i lost a pretty good chunk of off idle power. I think just advancing intake will help with my overlap/spool time and off idle power loss with still making more power then stock cams.
You are 100% certain they make the keys for om606? I know they did for om603 and 617.
No I am not 100% certain for the om606. But a key is a key, as long as you know the size and and stuff you should be able to get an offset. Unless they are some wierd key. But it's probably either a woodruff or a straight. Not much else to choose from.
Slightly more complicated, but you could always do an adjustable cam gear, I'm just throwing out some ideas for you.
But I do agree with your logic, lowering your cam degree should shift your torque curve down the rpm range and also make it slightly higher.
Just looked, looks like sproket hub is pressed on and 3 bolts for the actual sprocket. Could just try offseting the holes i guess.
The adjustable cam gear for my Perkins is basically what you are describing. We made a hub to go on the actual cam, then put three slotted holes in the gear and bolted the gear to the hub. It's never slipped time, but it only turns 3500rpm. This way you can adjust timing in between jumping teeth. I think the slots on my gear can move the cam degree around 10 degrees.
Also, you probably know this already, but don't forget to relash your valves after changing your cam timing.
Why would you have to relash valves after changing timing? Buckets are hydrulic anyways.
I forgot about the hydraulic.
I'm too use to working on old tractor engines
The booklet that crower sends with your cam states X amount of degrees will change valve lash by XX thousands.
You mean the other way around. X amount of valve lash will change duration by x amount. After changing cam centerline the valve lash will not be affected.
I read the booklet wrong, it was speaking about how changing timing affects the piston to valve clearance. Sometimes I read faster than my brain can comprehend haha
Oh okay...makes sence now.