Volvo 760 TD...
Volvo 760 TD...
This was my 760 back in its "glory" days, some years ago.
![[Image: CAM00293.jpg]](http://s26.postimg.org/687eqaab9/CAM00293.jpg)
![[Image: CAM00108.jpg]](http://s26.postimg.org/prhgsljud/CAM00108.jpg)
It was originally powered by a D24TIC (VW LT van engine. 2.4 inline TD intercooled six). Near its end, that engine was boosting 2.4bar with a modified (rotary) pump and 6200rpm limiter. It was nice, but I was sick of that engine for many reasons, so a couple years ago, I yanked it out and put a BMW M50B25 in.
![[Image: CAM01044.jpg]](http://s26.postimg.org/630lbf645/CAM01044.jpg)
It was really nice engine for the chassis, I was thinking of going turbo as well, but life got in the way, it was stored for most of the time and couple of months ago I took the Bimmer motor out, sold it to a friend along with an E28 chassis and swaped that motor in there.
This is where it lives now:
![[Image: 20160919_134657.jpg]](http://s26.postimg.org/6qswssv5h/20160919_134657.jpg)
Pardon the ugly mushroom filter and stuff, there is still a lot of tidying up to do.
Anyway, back to the Volvo... As it sits now, it's in need of a paintjob and some interior bits that I never get around to finish. And an engine. And I want to go back to diesel, but I don't want to go back to D24TIC, which I still have. The original one and several others. I have some BMW M21 and M51's, which are great engines and all, but...meh.
What I want is a reliable diesel (mechanical and IDI are requisites) daily driver that can get out of its own way. I'm not into setting speed records with this car anymore, I have 740 T16 for that now. But I also don't want to end up with a slug, because knowing myself, sooner than later I'll want more power out of it. So I came here to research OM603 and OM606's because however I look at it - those two are only options.
I was going to research for a couple of months, and in the meantime get around to finishing the rest of the car, but today I went shopping for some parts and came home with this:
![[Image: 20160926_172856.jpg]](http://s26.postimg.org/h5z31psc5/20160926_172856.jpg)
So, that is going to hasten the research part for a bit. As for phisically fitting the engine, I'm not concerned, I did enough engine swaps. Front sump may have to be modified a bit, but maybe even not, because I've already modified my crossmember a bit while fitting M50, since it's front sump as well, unlike Volvo engines which are rear-sumped.
Enough with my boring introduction, here's the part I need help with.
This is how it looks:
![[Image: 20160926_174034.jpg]](http://s26.postimg.org/bk82jx29h/20160926_174034.jpg)
![[Image: 20160926_174017.jpg]](http://s26.postimg.org/4h4si1m7p/20160926_174017.jpg)
![[Image: 20160926_174023.jpg]](http://s26.postimg.org/6a7p6d7ed/20160926_174023.jpg)
It came out of '99 W210 300 turbodiesel. All the wires were already cut when I first saw it, so don't blame me.
- I'll figure out later what turbo I'm going to run at first. As I said, my first goal is to have those stock 177 h-peas.
1- Flywheel? It was obviously automatic. Do any of OM601, 602, 603, M102, M103, M104 flywheels fit? Single-mass ones, of course.
2- What do I need in order to make OM603 turbo (W124 300D Turbo)mechanical Injection Pump work?
2a- Can I expect that pump to deliver 177hp? I'd like to avoid dealing with bigger elements until some point in now distant future.
2b - or is there any better way?
3- What about glow-plug control? And is it vacuum or electronic pump shut-off? How does that vacuum-thing work anyway? I come from the world of rotary Bosch pumps...
- Same goes for throttle.
I think I saw turbo oil return somewhere. But where does feed come from? I spent maybe three minutes looking at the engine alltogether today, pardon my ignorance.
4- What are those things missing down below oil filter housing? Oil cooler related? Anyone got a picture without parts missing?
5- ^ does this engine originally have an oil cooler? Pictures?
6- Do I need a lift pump in tank?
I'm sure I'm missing something out (besides that hole where vacuum pump should be), feel free to point it out to me.
Thanks
Hello everyone. I'm from Bosnia and I'm a Volvo addict and collector.
This was my 760 back in its "glory" days, some years ago.
It was originally powered by a D24TIC (VW LT van engine. 2.4 inline TD intercooled six). Near its end, that engine was boosting 2.4bar with a modified (rotary) pump and 6200rpm limiter. It was nice, but I was sick of that engine for many reasons, so a couple years ago, I yanked it out and put a BMW M50B25 in.
It was really nice engine for the chassis, I was thinking of going turbo as well, but life got in the way, it was stored for most of the time and couple of months ago I took the Bimmer motor out, sold it to a friend along with an E28 chassis and swaped that motor in there.
This is where it lives now:
Pardon the ugly mushroom filter and stuff, there is still a lot of tidying up to do.
Anyway, back to the Volvo... As it sits now, it's in need of a paintjob and some interior bits that I never get around to finish. And an engine. And I want to go back to diesel, but I don't want to go back to D24TIC, which I still have. The original one and several others. I have some BMW M21 and M51's, which are great engines and all, but...meh.
What I want is a reliable diesel (mechanical and IDI are requisites) daily driver that can get out of its own way. I'm not into setting speed records with this car anymore, I have 740 T16 for that now. But I also don't want to end up with a slug, because knowing myself, sooner than later I'll want more power out of it. So I came here to research OM603 and OM606's because however I look at it - those two are only options.
I was going to research for a couple of months, and in the meantime get around to finishing the rest of the car, but today I went shopping for some parts and came home with this:
So, that is going to hasten the research part for a bit. As for phisically fitting the engine, I'm not concerned, I did enough engine swaps. Front sump may have to be modified a bit, but maybe even not, because I've already modified my crossmember a bit while fitting M50, since it's front sump as well, unlike Volvo engines which are rear-sumped.
Enough with my boring introduction, here's the part I need help with.
This is how it looks:
It came out of '99 W210 300 turbodiesel. All the wires were already cut when I first saw it, so don't blame me.
- I'll figure out later what turbo I'm going to run at first. As I said, my first goal is to have those stock 177 h-peas.
1- Flywheel? It was obviously automatic. Do any of OM601, 602, 603, M102, M103, M104 flywheels fit? Single-mass ones, of course.
2- What do I need in order to make OM603 turbo (W124 300D Turbo)mechanical Injection Pump work?
2a- Can I expect that pump to deliver 177hp? I'd like to avoid dealing with bigger elements until some point in now distant future.
2b - or is there any better way?
3- What about glow-plug control? And is it vacuum or electronic pump shut-off? How does that vacuum-thing work anyway? I come from the world of rotary Bosch pumps...
- Same goes for throttle.
I think I saw turbo oil return somewhere. But where does feed come from? I spent maybe three minutes looking at the engine alltogether today, pardon my ignorance.
4- What are those things missing down below oil filter housing? Oil cooler related? Anyone got a picture without parts missing?
5- ^ does this engine originally have an oil cooler? Pictures?
6- Do I need a lift pump in tank?
I'm sure I'm missing something out (besides that hole where vacuum pump should be), feel free to point it out to me.
Thanks
Anyway, in order of appearence:
1 - I went with M103E30 one, together with clutch set. I used OM602 250D turbo gearbox. I'd like a CDI 6-speed one some day, but I reckon this one shall last enough on stock or near-stock power.
2 - Got OM603 N/A pump and swapped elements, delivery valves, etc from 606.962 pump inside. Bonus is that it got me rid of stupid "quick" fuel lines. I love banjo bolts. Obviously bypassed the fuel heater in the head as wel.
3 - Original Volvo glow-relay triggers a relay that sends power to a 6-way ebay fusebox that sends power to individual glowplugs. I was thinking of going with pushbutton, but this way I don't have to push the stupid button every time, I retain yellow light in the cluster and it'll still be somewhat coolant-temperature related. I adapted Volvo coolant temp sender for dash to where the upper radiator hose exits the head, I'll put the glow timer temp sender in the blank spot on the head near oil filter.
Found and blocked off turbo feed and return, It'll be N/A until I decide on turbo and build a manifold that won't put the turbo in chassis rail.
4 - Yup, it was oil cooler lines. Blanked those off for the moment, no one I spoke to wants to sell those oil outlet/inlet things without the cooler, and I don't need a Mercedes cooler. Will make some outlets later. How much needed is the oil cooler for a stock OM606, anyway? I'll have it anyway, but just wondering.
6 - I guess I don't.
So, I got the thing started on the stand. Today I went to put it in the engine bay. I did. Pulled it out right away. Turns out I will have to trim the sump quite a bit, nevertheless. I hate aluminium sumps, by the way. No pictures today, maybe tomorrow if I start cutting the sump, I took it off this afternoon and I feel deeply frozen right now. Not used to being outside while it's -6*C.
I guess I was too noob to get help.
Anyway, in order of appearence:
1 - I went with M103E30 one, together with clutch set. I used OM602 250D turbo gearbox. I'd like a CDI 6-speed one some day, but I reckon this one shall last enough on stock or near-stock power.
2 - Got OM603 N/A pump and swapped elements, delivery valves, etc from 606.962 pump inside. Bonus is that it got me rid of stupid "quick" fuel lines. I love banjo bolts. Obviously bypassed the fuel heater in the head as wel.
3 - Original Volvo glow-relay triggers a relay that sends power to a 6-way ebay fusebox that sends power to individual glowplugs. I was thinking of going with pushbutton, but this way I don't have to push the stupid button every time, I retain yellow light in the cluster and it'll still be somewhat coolant-temperature related. I adapted Volvo coolant temp sender for dash to where the upper radiator hose exits the head, I'll put the glow timer temp sender in the blank spot on the head near oil filter.
Found and blocked off turbo feed and return, It'll be N/A until I decide on turbo and build a manifold that won't put the turbo in chassis rail.
4 - Yup, it was oil cooler lines. Blanked those off for the moment, no one I spoke to wants to sell those oil outlet/inlet things without the cooler, and I don't need a Mercedes cooler. Will make some outlets later. How much needed is the oil cooler for a stock OM606, anyway? I'll have it anyway, but just wondering.
6 - I guess I don't.
So, I got the thing started on the stand. Today I went to put it in the engine bay. I did. Pulled it out right away. Turns out I will have to trim the sump quite a bit, nevertheless. I hate aluminium sumps, by the way. No pictures today, maybe tomorrow if I start cutting the sump, I took it off this afternoon and I feel deeply frozen right now. Not used to being outside while it's -6*C.
not a whole lot of those wagons in the US. The only thing I really remember about them is when I was a kid I thought it was amazing that they had windshield wipers on the headlights.Sounds like your off to a great start!
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Welcome to the forum, and I like the Volvo not a whole lot of those wagons in the US. The only thing I really remember about them is when I was a kid I thought it was amazing that they had windshield wipers on the headlights.
Sounds like your off to a great start!
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
swsrock, yeah, I posted that almost 3 months ago...gee, didn't realize until now that long has passed, and I had so few things done. Hopefully I'll pick up my pace some time soon.
I didn't realize I could get 90cc out of 6mm pump, I thought 75-ish was maximum while retaining smoothness and normal return to idle. I actually do have a Bosch test bench available, hopefully I can make that count.
MFSuper90 - Thanks. Yeah, they're great cars. From what I see on Turbobricks, they appear far less common here in Europe than in the US, but I get around...by buying almost every 7/9 series car I see for sale. lol
swsrock, yeah, I posted that almost 3 months ago...gee, didn't realize until now that long has passed, and I had so few things done. Hopefully I'll pick up my pace some time soon.
I didn't realize I could get 90cc out of 6mm pump, I thought 75-ish was maximum while retaining smoothness and normal return to idle. I actually do have a Bosch test bench available, hopefully I can make that count.
Lift pump is on side of IP.
IP is vacuum kill, whats your email addy i'll send you a diagram I drew before to make a vac kill circuit without the vacuum function from the stock mercedes key switch
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
You need to loop the oil cooler lines not block them off! Anyway if you cut the crimp off the oil hoses at the filter housing fittings they look like normal 3/4" / 19mm hydraulic hose barbs and you can get normal oil hose crimped on.
Lift pump is on side of IP.
IP is vacuum kill, whats your email addy i'll send you a diagram I drew before to make a vac kill circuit without the vacuum function from the stock mercedes key switch
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
Problem is, I don't have that plate that screws into oil filter plate with 4 M6 bolts and has those two outlets. I made a block-off plate just for the purpose of starting the engine and intend on machining proper outlets, as soon as I have the engine settled in the bay. But you confused me now. I thought that feed to the cooler had a thermostat so it wouldn't let the oil flow to the cooler until at operating temp. Suppose I'm wrong then?
I thought of having a Tee off the vacuum pump line that would go to the pump trough a normally open solenoid that would get the power from ignition, so key on -> power to solenoid -> no vacuum to the pump, and vice versa with the key off in order to stop the engine, but I'm surely interested in your diagram, I'll send you my addy via PM in a bit!
Hey, Hario. Thanks for the input!
Problem is, I don't have that plate that screws into oil filter plate with 4 M6 bolts and has those two outlets. I made a block-off plate just for the purpose of starting the engine and intend on machining proper outlets, as soon as I have the engine settled in the bay. But you confused me now. I thought that feed to the cooler had a thermostat so it wouldn't let the oil flow to the cooler until at operating temp. Suppose I'm wrong then?
I thought of having a Tee off the vacuum pump line that would go to the pump trough a normally open solenoid that would get the power from ignition, so key on -> power to solenoid -> no vacuum to the pump, and vice versa with the key off in order to stop the engine, but I'm surely interested in your diagram, I'll send you my addy via PM in a bit!
You also need to vent the vacuum once you turn the key back on. The way you wan't to do it you may have a hard time starting it up again since the stop lever will still be in the StOP position. Use a 2 way solenoid that connects the stop lever vacuum to the vacuum system when not energized and connects the stop lever vacuum to atmosphere when there is no power on the solenoid.
http://s62.photobucket.com/user/a10ruk/m...0&fit=clip
Here is a picture of a stock oil cooler outlet.
http://s62.photobucket.com/user/a10ruk/m...0&fit=clip
Could you maybe fabricate another plate same shape as yours but much thicker so it can be female tapped for normal hydralulic fittings perhaps?
beers,
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
Yes there is thermostat good point, but I would not know if when up to temp the thermostat would open, the oil would dead-head then the thermostat would be forced closed by oil pressure or just the oil pump pressure release valvve would open and bypass the entire oil circuit. The oil cooler/thermostat assembly is full flow not partial/diversion, food for thought,
Could you maybe fabricate another plate same shape as yours but much thicker so it can be female tapped for normal hydralulic fittings perhaps?
beers,
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
As for the thicker plate with female (90°) fittings, after some pondering, it seems that that is exactly what I'm going to do and be done with it.
BTW, I'm going to need oil pressure switch+sensor. I know there is a plug on the filter housing intended for that, but I seem to have forgotten - is it M15x1.5, or?
Good point.
As for the thicker plate with female (90°) fittings, after some pondering, it seems that that is exactly what I'm going to do and be done with it.
BTW, I'm going to need oil pressure switch+sensor. I know there is a plug on the filter housing intended for that, but I seem to have forgotten - is it M15x1.5, or?
Pics tomorrow, maybe. It's ugly as hell, but it won't leak and it retains stock pickup height. Basically, cut the pickup "apple" off the tube, shortened the tube, folded a 3mm aluminum sheet so it resembles an S-bend and that's about it...
So I've welded the oil pickup today. 3cm shorter to account for the shorter pan, which I have yet to weld.
Pics tomorrow, maybe. It's ugly as hell, but it won't leak and it retains stock pickup height. Basically, cut the pickup "apple" off the tube, shortened the tube, folded a 3mm aluminum sheet so it resembles an S-bend and that's about it...
Anyway, pickup, while mocking it up and trial fitting:
![[Image: CAM01252.jpg]](https://s26.postimg.org/l63c73np1/CAM01252.jpg)
It ended up as an S-bend in order to retain height and orientation. No pics when mounted, though.
![[Image: CAM01320.jpg]](https://s26.postimg.org/6beqsxe45/CAM01320.jpg)
Figured I'd rather cut it this much and have some extra space rather than have it fit in matter of milimeters.
Engine should go back in tomorrow, hopefully.
Holidays and all...
Anyway, pickup, while mocking it up and trial fitting:
It ended up as an S-bend in order to retain height and orientation. No pics when mounted, though.
Figured I'd rather cut it this much and have some extra space rather than have it fit in matter of milimeters.
Engine should go back in tomorrow, hopefully.
![[Image: 20170126_164345.jpg]](https://s26.postimg.org/xkm10lj95/20170126_164345.jpg)
![[Image: 20170126_164352.jpg]](https://s26.postimg.org/446ey6cvt/20170126_164352.jpg)
Finally got around to actually stuffing it there. I like how it sits now. It could have gone back a bit, if I had shortened the pan enough, but it isn't going to be a race car anyway, and I like to have some space behind the head, in case I have to work on something there.
It just hangs there on floor jacks for now. Next up: engine mounts.
Finally got around to actually stuffing it there. I like how it sits now. It could have gone back a bit, if I had shortened the pan enough, but it isn't going to be a race car anyway, and I like to have some space behind the head, in case I have to work on something there.
It just hangs there on floor jacks for now. Next up: engine mounts.
I have two hoses that bother me. One comes out of the head just by the oil filter. The other comes off the water pump, just behind the bottom radiator hose. I know they're supposed to attach to heater matrix, but in which way?
I assume that the one that comes out of the head provides hot water for the heater matrix, while the one on the pump is return. Am I wrong?
Again, the hose that comes out of the head... It's actually a pipe, with hose attached to the end. Pipe isn't held in place by anything.
![[Image: PullingGlowPlug6-large.jpg]](https://sites.google.com/site/alanmcreynolds/_/rsrc/1468852520475/PullingGlowPlug6-large.jpg)
It's right there, underneath that M6 bolt that attaches a (ground) wire to the head in he picture I borrowed from the internet. What's supposed to be holding it in place?
Now to the hoses...
I have two hoses that bother me. One comes out of the head just by the oil filter. The other comes off the water pump, just behind the bottom radiator hose. I know they're supposed to attach to heater matrix, but in which way?
I assume that the one that comes out of the head provides hot water for the heater matrix, while the one on the pump is return. Am I wrong?
Again, the hose that comes out of the head... It's actually a pipe, with hose attached to the end. Pipe isn't held in place by anything.
It's right there, underneath that M6 bolt that attaches a (ground) wire to the head in he picture I borrowed from the internet. What's supposed to be holding it in place?
![[Image: 20170312_112418.jpg]](https://s26.postimg.org/7l6tnr67p/20170312_112418.jpg)
![[Image: 20170312_112426.jpg]](https://s26.postimg.org/qesmkr4fp/20170312_112426.jpg)
![[Image: 20170312_112434.jpg]](https://s26.postimg.org/9fjo5ht85/20170312_112434.jpg)
Disregard the kinked heater exit -> return pipe coupling hose, I need to buy something that fits better.
I had no problem with them, but my engine might be a bit further forward than yours, which in turn gives me issues with upper radiator hose exiting right into power steering pump pulley.
These?
Disregard the kinked heater exit -> return pipe coupling hose, I need to buy something that fits better.
I had no problem with them, but my engine might be a bit further forward than yours, which in turn gives me issues with upper radiator hose exiting right into power steering pump pulley.
I think yours is newer than mine and the firewall looks a bit different.
I have a V90 large radiator and luckily the hose is molded to go up a little and clears the ps pulley by 2mm =)
I used a 320cdi pan and pump, but just barely could use the stock fanclutch.
E-fans was a no go without moving the radiator forwards.
I like the visco since its old tech and reliable.
My 745 now moves under its own power.
/fredde
Thank you for the pictures I was a bit curious.
I think yours is newer than mine and the firewall looks a bit different.
I have a V90 large radiator and luckily the hose is molded to go up a little and clears the ps pulley by 2mm =)
I used a 320cdi pan and pump, but just barely could use the stock fanclutch.
E-fans was a no go without moving the radiator forwards.
I like the visco since its old tech and reliable.
My 745 now moves under its own power.
/fredde
Would you have a picture of your setup? Also, I'm very interested in 320CDI pump/rear sump in a Volvo, would you have a picture as it sits? Do you have a buld thread somewhere, I'd very much like to see it? How did you go about Mercedes shifter, if you used manual gearbox?
I was going to use a pusher E-fan just behind the grille, but I, also, barely managed to fit Mercedes viscous fan clutch and very thin, I believe M103 fan and called it a day, fits great. I'll still have a stock pusher fan behind the grill, for AC and in case of emergency. But I also prefer viscous fans, for reliability and truck noise reasons.
V90 radiator? I'm not aware of V90's having different radiators than earlier years, in fact there are, to my knowledge, only two types of radiators - wide and narrow, latter being used on n/a petrol and some turbos, and wider ones on diesels, 3 liters and "stronger" turbos. I had narrow one for some trial fittings, now it's a wider one in there...
Mine is 765, they indeed have different firewalls, windshields, HVAC boxes and dasboards, than 740's, but that's it.
Would you have a picture of your setup? Also, I'm very interested in 320CDI pump/rear sump in a Volvo, would you have a picture as it sits? Do you have a buld thread somewhere, I'd very much like to see it? How did you go about Mercedes shifter, if you used manual gearbox?
I was going to use a pusher E-fan just behind the grille, but I, also, barely managed to fit Mercedes viscous fan clutch and very thin, I believe M103 fan and called it a day, fits great. I'll still have a stock pusher fan behind the grill, for AC and in case of emergency. But I also prefer viscous fans, for reliability and truck noise reasons.
V90 radiator? I'm not aware of V90's having different radiators than earlier years, in fact there are, to my knowledge, only two types of radiators - wide and narrow, latter being used on n/a petrol and some turbos, and wider ones on diesels, 3 liters and "stronger" turbos. I had narrow one for some trial fittings, now it's a wider one in there...
No build thread as I want my build to get as little attention as possible.
At least until I clear inspection. And to clear that I have too keep it auto.
Mounting the shiftlever took many hours of cutting, meassuring and testing.
And, it has to fit with the interior. Had to move the handbrake 5-6cm further back.
Well it came from a V90 both wider and taller than the stock b230e radiator.
It didnt have the coolant reservoir hose fitting, as I couldnt have that since it would interfer with the fan.
If that is v90 specific I dont know.
Since the 722.6 is a beast i had to sledgehammer the tunnel and also cut out a section.
But the climate/ventilation "box" is intact.
If you dont want pictures in you thread plz pm your email.
I can take a few pictures.
No build thread as I want my build to get as little attention as possible.
At least until I clear inspection. And to clear that I have too keep it auto.
Mounting the shiftlever took many hours of cutting, meassuring and testing.
And, it has to fit with the interior. Had to move the handbrake 5-6cm further back.
Well it came from a V90 both wider and taller than the stock b230e radiator.
It didnt have the coolant reservoir hose fitting, as I couldnt have that since it would interfer with the fan.
If that is v90 specific I dont know.
Since the 722.6 is a beast i had to sledgehammer the tunnel and also cut out a section.
But the climate/ventilation "box" is intact.
If you dont want pictures in you thread plz pm your email.
I guess "no coolant tank outlet" is V90 specific, I haven't seen that in person yet. But yes, B230E, B230K, B230A and most B230F's have narrower and lower radiator than FT, 16V and D24 engines.
Yes, coolant tank outlet hose does come dangerously near the fan, but I hope I'll sort that out...
No, I wouldn't mind pictures here at all, please post away. Unless you really don't want them public, then I'll send you my address.
I guess "no coolant tank outlet" is V90 specific, I haven't seen that in person yet. But yes, B230E, B230K, B230A and most B230F's have narrower and lower radiator than FT, 16V and D24 engines.
Yes, coolant tank outlet hose does come dangerously near the fan, but I hope I'll sort that out...
Shifter will get a cover as the oem e300.
No pictures of the pan, maybe soon.
Engine oil cooler coming soon and also a big fat intercooler.
I have the stock volvo intank pump (b230e low pressure pump) that I plan to use when in boost.
It gives low but positive pressure hopefully enough to prevent cavitation in the fuel lines.
When going high power its just a matter of putting a 044 or similar where the stock HP pump was.
/fredde
A few pictures from my car.
Shifter will get a cover as the oem e300.
No pictures of the pan, maybe soon.
Engine oil cooler coming soon and also a big fat intercooler.
I have the stock volvo intank pump (b230e low pressure pump) that I plan to use when in boost.
It gives low but positive pressure hopefully enough to prevent cavitation in the fuel lines.
When going high power its just a matter of putting a 044 or similar where the stock HP pump was.
/fredde
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