Glow plugs lubed with copper grease
Glow plugs lubed with copper grease
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-15-2017, 08:17 PM #2Copper is good, you will be happy when you remove them
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
The thing behind stuck glow plugs is:
The machine tool that mb use to cut the glow plug seat, most often does not cut a perfect seat.
On the other hand usually people do not tight the plug enough to seal properly. Result is carbon deposit between the wall and the plug body which stucks the plug.
Solution:
1 use glow plug sealant. And tight properly, remove and retight.
2 use locktite at the plug tip and grease the body. Tight properly.
Good luck.
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
Hy there,
The thing behind stuck glow plugs is:
The machine tool that mb use to cut the glow plug seat, most often does not cut a perfect seat.
On the other hand usually people do not tight the plug enough to seal properly. Result is carbon deposit between the wall and the plug body which stucks the plug.
Solution:
1 use glow plug sealant. And tight properly, remove and retight.
2 use locktite at the plug tip and grease the body. Tight properly.
Good luck.
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
(08-16-2017, 01:36 AM)barrote Hy there,
The thing behind stuck glow plugs is:
The machine tool that mb use to cut the glow plug seat, most often does not cut a perfect seat.
On the other hand usually people do not tight the plug enough to seal properly. Result is carbon deposit between the wall and the plug body which stucks the plug.
Solution:
1 use glow plug sealant. And tight properly, remove and retight.
2 use locktite at the plug tip and grease the body. Tight properly.
Good luck.
I've used torque wrench, so those are tightened properly. The question is copper is OK or not because it will harm aluminium?
(08-16-2017, 01:36 AM)barrote Hy there,
The thing behind stuck glow plugs is:
The machine tool that mb use to cut the glow plug seat, most often does not cut a perfect seat.
On the other hand usually people do not tight the plug enough to seal properly. Result is carbon deposit between the wall and the plug body which stucks the plug.
Solution:
1 use glow plug sealant. And tight properly, remove and retight.
2 use locktite at the plug tip and grease the body. Tight properly.
Good luck.
I've used torque wrench, so those are tightened properly. The question is copper is OK or not because it will harm aluminium?
About cooper based grease eating aluminium without mech friction i did not knew about...
The proper tight i was talking about is not the use of spec tq value, is about plug seat contact, u have to make sure it happen, cause u may be deceived by thread drag or debris, and with or without grease they will stuck again.
Thats why i glue them with thread sealant, only the seat hehe
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
As off me i would use any grease, thats what i do when run out off glow plug sealant...
About cooper based grease eating aluminium without mech friction i did not knew about...
The proper tight i was talking about is not the use of spec tq value, is about plug seat contact, u have to make sure it happen, cause u may be deceived by thread drag or debris, and with or without grease they will stuck again.
Thats why i glue them with thread sealant, only the seat hehe
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
Wouldnt do that. When you smear injectors with copper they are stuck for good. Use ceramic grease.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ex: 525tds 130kW, C250TD 160kW, E320CDI 200kW, ML400CDI 230kW, A6 R5TDI 130kW
Now: Q7 V8TDI 240kW, 320d 150kW, 335d 210kW
I've been coating the threads, cone and shaft of the glowplug with Hylomar. The shaft gets a thick coat. As stated above, the problem is that carbon can get blown past the cone where is packs in and seizes the plug. The thick layer of Hylomar (or other goop) prevents that carbon from getting a good grip on the shaft of the plug.
I personally don't like the idea of greasing my glow plugs with "regular" grease because it is, after all, a hydrocarbon that's being set in an extremely hot environment for many years at a time. It makes sense that what you'd be left with are hard carbon deposits where grease once was. Synthetics break down too.
I've make a paste of ethanol and powdered graphite for this reason which I believe will out perform any grease on the market when used on glow plugs.
Graphite is carbon - but crystalline structure is flat plates that slide past each other with great ease acting as a dry lubricant which is stable under intense heat (rocket nozzles).
The ethanol is just to hold the powder together for application. It evaporates very quickly & is obviously very flammable.
Anyone see a problem with my theory?
This is my theory that hasn't been proven!
I personally don't like the idea of greasing my glow plugs with "regular" grease because it is, after all, a hydrocarbon that's being set in an extremely hot environment for many years at a time. It makes sense that what you'd be left with are hard carbon deposits where grease once was. Synthetics break down too.
I've make a paste of ethanol and powdered graphite for this reason which I believe will out perform any grease on the market when used on glow plugs.
Graphite is carbon - but crystalline structure is flat plates that slide past each other with great ease acting as a dry lubricant which is stable under intense heat (rocket nozzles).
The ethanol is just to hold the powder together for application. It evaporates very quickly & is obviously very flammable.
Anyone see a problem with my theory?
Also I got a 10mm or 10.5mm can't remember drill bit to cut the carbon off the GP cone seat before installing new plug, only turn by hand and load the drill flights with grease to catch the carbon from going down into the bores,
Also I think the OP query was referring to electrolytic reaction between copper & aluminium?
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
I'd use high temperature grease at least, or lithium grease perhaps?
Also I got a 10mm or 10.5mm can't remember drill bit to cut the carbon off the GP cone seat before installing new plug, only turn by hand and load the drill flights with grease to catch the carbon from going down into the bores,
Also I think the OP query was referring to electrolytic reaction between copper & aluminium?
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
1 Guest(s)
1 Guest(s)