Injector Pump problems
Injector Pump problems
So i recently inherited a 1980 300td that I am excited about but it doesn't run. Some white smoke came out while turning it over but didn't run. Cracked the injector lines to find out that two of the lines are not getting any fuel. One had a dribble of diesel coming out and the other was dry. The other 3 on the pump are working properly. Could the element be stuck because it sat for a long time or would something have to be broken cause this problem? Any tips unsticking the two or is a rebuild going to be needed?
The IP should be a MW with flange type elements. The DV is inside the line connection threat piece on the IP. Unscrew and check the DV.
Do it on one cylinder only and use a new copper washer. When the DV is out you can look onto the plunger. Operate the control lever and check if the plunger turns. Crank the engine slowly manually and check if the plunger moves up and down.
If my explanation is not clear or in any case get some drawings or written instructions about the DV before you start doing this.
Tom
You think it's not air.
The IP should be a MW with flange type elements. The DV is inside the line connection threat piece on the IP. Unscrew and check the DV.
Do it on one cylinder only and use a new copper washer. When the DV is out you can look onto the plunger. Operate the control lever and check if the plunger turns. Crank the engine slowly manually and check if the plunger moves up and down.
If my explanation is not clear or in any case get some drawings or written instructions about the DV before you start doing this.
Tom
(12-02-2009, 05:18 PM)winmutt How long did you turn it over for?
enough to drain a battery. A lot of medium turnovers to avoid frying the starter. Anyone have any info on the MW pump? I have tried to search for anything on it but have come up empty besides timing info.
Tomnik - thanks for the advice. I am familiar with diesel repair from my truck, except the mechanical injection part. The powerstoke heui injection has nothing similar. you have any info on opening up the pump or any reading that would help?
(12-02-2009, 05:18 PM)winmutt How long did you turn it over for?
enough to drain a battery. A lot of medium turnovers to avoid frying the starter. Anyone have any info on the MW pump? I have tried to search for anything on it but have come up empty besides timing info.
Tomnik - thanks for the advice. I am familiar with diesel repair from my truck, except the mechanical injection part. The powerstoke heui injection has nothing similar. you have any info on opening up the pump or any reading that would help?
If it sat for a long time, I bet its far more likely your fuel tank is full of algae or crap, or the fuel bled back out of the injection system than it having developed rusty internals on the injection pump. It could be totally clogged up, sucking against a carpet of algae in the fuel tank.
Before I got into dis-assembling anything, id change all the fuel filters, take a gallon jug of fresh diesel, directly plumb the engine to this can at the engine compartment, and try to start it with your foot to the floor and with a charger on engine start connected to the battery. The starters supposed to be able to take some serious cranking before any damage.
It would be worth it to make absolutely sure before you broke down the injection pump. If it did not work in this circumstance, I could then say that I KNOW its not starting with a stacked deck, so it must be something bigger.
did you have the throttle mashed all the way to the floor while you were cranking it? Are you trying to start it on the fuel thats been in it while it sat?
If it sat for a long time, I bet its far more likely your fuel tank is full of algae or crap, or the fuel bled back out of the injection system than it having developed rusty internals on the injection pump. It could be totally clogged up, sucking against a carpet of algae in the fuel tank.
Before I got into dis-assembling anything, id change all the fuel filters, take a gallon jug of fresh diesel, directly plumb the engine to this can at the engine compartment, and try to start it with your foot to the floor and with a charger on engine start connected to the battery. The starters supposed to be able to take some serious cranking before any damage.
It would be worth it to make absolutely sure before you broke down the injection pump. If it did not work in this circumstance, I could then say that I KNOW its not starting with a stacked deck, so it must be something bigger.
Have a couple pump questions (excuse the poor terminology):
1. Would I mess up the rack positioning(helix position of plunger) if I marked the position of the barrel and pulled it out?
2. Can it be pulled out of the top by removing the two nuts on top? Any attachments inside that would prevent this?
3. How does the plunger swivel to change the helix? I assume the oval flange at the most bottom part gets turned?
Stupid questions, but I was thinking if I could pull the element and maybe inspect for any irregularities. I know that the balancing and individual plunger timing could get skewed. Kinda grasping at many things to get an understanding of how to work on the pump.
new diesel, new filters fuel(bled it too) and oil, changed all fluids, found 2 glow plugs bad so I changed all 5, air filter is good, etc. Went through the whole process of getting it ready to my knowledge. With the injector lines off the two elements only trickle out. The other 3 injectors are firing fine. I did check the timing. If the seal on the DV was bad, would this keep the fuel from coming past the DV holder to the injector line? I didn't replace the seal on it and come to think of it I pulled the second one to make sure I put the first dv back in the right order. Those are the two acting up. I assume just to get the seals from a local dealership?
Have a couple pump questions (excuse the poor terminology):
1. Would I mess up the rack positioning(helix position of plunger) if I marked the position of the barrel and pulled it out?
2. Can it be pulled out of the top by removing the two nuts on top? Any attachments inside that would prevent this?
3. How does the plunger swivel to change the helix? I assume the oval flange at the most bottom part gets turned?
Stupid questions, but I was thinking if I could pull the element and maybe inspect for any irregularities. I know that the balancing and individual plunger timing could get skewed. Kinda grasping at many things to get an understanding of how to work on the pump.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
I'm thinking you need a new pump. On the A pumps the plunger is free floating but afaik the M and MW pumps are not free floating.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
GREASY_BEAST
12-09-2009, 02:31 PM #12Don't remove pump elements! If you do that you almost certainly will need a new pump. Pull all the DV holders and have someone crank the car over while you look at the plungers moving (don't get fuel in your eye). If they all move about the same, and they all twist back and forth when the throttle lever is moved, then you know what the problem isn't. However, they could still be so badly worn that they won't pump fuel anymore (however unlikely). Another possibility is that there is something askew in the governor that is preventing the IP from giving the correct amount of rack travel for starting (forgot what the name is for this part). Pray its a stuck plunger, because with that at least you have a hope in hell of fixing it yourself. I know its redundant, but you are absolutely sure there is not air in the IP?
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