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+--- Thread: 603 idle computer (/showthread.php?tid=6965)
603 idle computer - martureo - 01-08-2016
I'm doing a 603 into a w123 swap. I know the 603 has an idle computer and I think I'd like to keep it.
Other than hooking it up to power and the tach(?) is there anything I need to do to make it work in a w123?
RE: 603 idle computer - SurfRodder - 01-12-2016
I'm curious about this as well...I think the pump can be lightly modified to have ilde mechanically controlled.
RE: 603 idle computer - Tito - 01-12-2016
It can indeed. Just set the idle rpm a little higher with the screw on top of the governor. However idle is now fixed at a certain quantity and will run lower on rpm when cold.
RE: 603 idle computer - barrote - 01-13-2016
hy
This pump has a ELR electronic idle increase, purpose: is for cold start A/C power incresse, take off aid , night driving, tow take off , ddada and so on ...
the idle speed is regulated in the only bolt coming out the governor , one turn give u more less 200RPM trhe thing is if u change it too much from the 700rpm probably the pump may loose some of the increase ability , or return to idle ability.
a small touch in the idle damper may be needed.
basically if u want to use that, u have to remove the controler from the donnor car , is actuated by coolant temp for cold start , by a/c switch for A/C and by clutch sensor for take off aid.
if u want a direct turn on just feed it with 12 volt dc it will work , limit is 7 volts pwm 10hz , but it handles 12v for short periods of time.
RE: 603 idle computer - DiseaselWeasel - 01-13-2016
It's easy to wire in... Take out the complete engine loom, implant - done. I'd make use of the OVP (silver relais with red top and one or two fuses on top), it protects the idle ECU from overvolatage. Just needs ignition switched +12V from the fuse box. There are wiring diagrammes to be found on w124performance.com - it looks complicated at first, but it's simple actually. It'll also generate a TD (RPM) signal for a rev-counter which is handy.
Kickdown/AC is controlled by a separate ECU which also gets it's current from the OVP.
Or in short: remove all wiring you can from the car and then decide how far you want to integrate it. What I don't know is how kick-down is controlled on the W123 chassis/OM617.
If it's too much hassle, as mentioned, usually a ficed idle works well. I couldn't stall the engine even with too low idle (when the ELR was not yet working)...
So you have a Plan A and a Plan B