led panzer's 1985 300D
led panzer's 1985 300D
(04-01-2011, 07:09 PM)yankneck696 That sounds like an OSHIT approved working condition...
Ed
(04-01-2011, 07:09 PM)yankneck696 That sounds like an OSHIT approved working condition...
Ed
Work and school (mainly school) have been kicking my ass lately but i took the second half of the day to work on the turbo. Got the bigass plate made, its 4''x 3.5''x 2.5''
I milled it out with a ball end mill and then ground it smooth all the way through, the pictures of the inside don't do it justice
Aaand here is everything bolted up
I also picked up my oil supply line and the beginings of an exhaust (thats a 3'' elbow)
More to come
Did the center bearing and flex discs today finally. What a miserable job that was it took forever but the driveline is smooth as glass now. I also turned up the modulator pressure on the trans, 1.5 turns, it shifts perfectly.
Painted some of the parts for the turbo project, mainly the actuators. More work on it tomorrow, ill post some pics when its all together.
More progress today, I made the oil drain
Drilled the compressor housing
Pressed in the fitting for the hose to the pressure actuator
Put everything together after paint
And painted the exhaust manifold, Rustoleum 2000 degree paint
Still need to order the silicone boots I need and the hose for the oil drain, and some misc. hardware but we're just about done wtih it.
The more I think about it, the more I think that this is exactly what I want to do.
Could you post up a list of all the needed parts both made and purchased? Would you be interested in making another set of all the custom parts?
After I get it finished this weekend I will post the list. Just a warning this wasn't cheap. It doesn't seem like there's a lot but the further you go the more it adds up, $20 here $50 there ect.
So are you going to switch anything from the cabin for the vanes, or is it all pressure activated? I need it so my family can drive my car as well without pushing knobs and buttons and shit.
No one can drive any of my cars ... They are all theft proof in their own way
(05-11-2011, 01:27 AM)Captain America No one can drive any of my cars ... They are all theft proof in their own way
(05-11-2011, 01:27 AM)Captain America No one can drive any of my cars ... They are all theft proof in their own way
Sounds good. Cant wait to see it done!
Well I needed to get a gauge mount, and I really didn't want to overpay for some cheap piece of plastic so I decided to make my own. It will rest on the dash right next to the stock instument cluster.
Piece of 3"x3"x7" aluminum
Took the last few at home cuz I thought they would turn out better but they didn't
I'm sending it out tomorow to be annodized black
Where in the hell is that supposed to fit?...
What machine are you using?
(05-11-2011, 11:28 PM)mike-81-240d Where in the hell is that supposed to fit?...
(05-11-2011, 11:28 PM)mike-81-240d Where in the hell is that supposed to fit?...
I've never used any CNC, but we had an old lathe that used to turn down torpedo nosecones in WW II that was last calibrated Nov. 10, 1946. Noone used the autofeed on it, due to lack of knowledge. I had the son of the origional machinist teach me how. Boss found me standing there hands on hips kicking the reversing lever & then giving it 1/2 crank. Boss asked me how it all worked & I said"Lemme know when you need something turned down". That old lathe was spot on !
Ed
It could be better but it certainly looks better than it did.
Turbo day is tomorow
Holy shit what a day.
Now you see it
Now you don't
I got it in and its running but it's far from perfect. Had to cut my adaptor down cuz the turbo wouldnt fit, and its still shoehorned in there, the turbine housing contacts the shock tower and it rumbles like hell. Have to go get some new bolts for the shorter adaptor, I had to grind the ones I had.
Next problem, I need to play around with where I connect it, the actuator is'nt getting the vaccum it needs. I also had to re-route all the coolant hoses in that area, they were in the way. The new hoses seem to be working fine though.
But even though I have to take it out again to fix a few things it works, boost rises as fast as you push the pedal, I only took it around the parking lot twice, it was wet, there was fog and drunk people from the bar in front of the shop so I didn't want to push my luck.
More to come tomorow, I'm going to go collaspe and pass out.
Just got back from a test drive and it looks like the control system is working perfectly. Floor it from a stand still and the boost shoots right up to 15psi (and not any higher which shows the vanes are opening properly), driving on the street (cruising) at between 25 and 40 there is no boost at all, but if you give it pedal there's instant boost just like before.
The second observation is that my egt's are much lower than with the trap ox and stock turbo, the highest I see now on a hard takeoff is 850 compared to the 1100 it was before.
I still have to make my downpipe and trim the adaptor down (its loud as hell) but the good news is it works, and it works exactly the way I thought it would.
Cool, nice work. Any videos yet?
Yeah good work!
Thanks guys Once I get it all together properly ill make some videos, I'm probably the only 21 year old that's never put a video on youtube but I think I can figure it out.
I got the adaptor cut down and its bolted back in, but I'm having problems with the oil drain I'm going to try and make a totally solid line tomorrow but the one I made originally was too small, and the one I made isn't straight enough or at enough of a downward angle and oil is building up in the turbo and pushing past the seals, It's spraying oil. Not nearly like the holset forced tried to run, its just a little bit but it can't stay like that.
Does anyone know how the tube that comes out of the oil pan is attached? Pressed in or threaded? It seems loose but I didn't want to go cranking on it till I knew for sure, I'm going to have to take it out and make it much smaller
(05-16-2011, 09:47 PM)led-panzer I'm probably the only 21 year old that's never put a video on youtube but I think I can figure it out.
(05-16-2011, 09:47 PM)led-panzer I'm probably the only 21 year old that's never put a video on youtube but I think I can figure it out.
Yes I'm late but lets face it, anyone that is serious about putting a VNT on thier car doesnt need me to tell them how to do it. I'll list everything I used no matter how obvious they may seem to some of you.
The three hardest things to find:
The turbo itself
w115 manifold
A large diameter low pressure wastegate actuator
All of these things I was fortunate enough to buy from forum members, and it took a while to accumulate them all. The absolute hardest of those is the wastegate acuator, the one I have is an 8 psi 2.5'' diameter that I bought from ForcedInduction. I have no idea where he got it, but some of you may have recognized it as the one on his Schwitzer turbo in his compound turbo thread (pain in the ass to get that yellow paint off let me tell you)
The custom parts:
Turbo Adaptor
Downpipe flange
2" aluminum piece for junction between turbo and manifold
Oil drain
Vacuum actuator bracket
The thickest adaptor possible (at least with my setup) is 1.600". This left enough room so the turbo didnt rattle on the shock tower and enough room for the pressure actuator to clear the manifold- only .030" of clearance
The oil drain is very important as I found out the hard way. It needs to be a large diameter and have no sections parallel to the ground. A normal turbo is no big deal, my setup was a headache because I have to route it around the vacuum actuator. I took the stock line, cut it up and welded it back together the way I needed it. I will have to redo it though, it leaks like a sonofabitch.
Other misc parts
3 3/16-18 bolts 3" long
3 m10x1.5 allen bolts 2" long
1 m10x1.5 stud 3.5" long and associated nut
Bolt to plug hole in w115 manifold (m18?)
Generic t3 gasket
Vacuum tubing
One 2.25" to 2" 90 degree bending reducer and associated clamps
Several Home Depot fittings, like the one I pressed into the compressor housing, you will need them (smaller) for boost gauge, ect
Oil supply line
m14x1.5 to pipe thread adaptor
m8(?) to pipe thread adaptor (into turbo)
1/8 npt 3" long small pipe
1/8 npt elbow (both to clear turbine housing)
The line itself was easy and cheap, I took the turbo into the Parker store with me and talked to the guy, explaining what I needed and what I was doing (got funny looks hauling it around lol). He gave me the 3/8 stainless braided hose and the two adaptors I needed for $45. For reference the hose should be 3ft in length, it worked perfectly.
I thought about doing a how to thread, but a different turbo, car, manifold, and/or control system would have totally different instructions. The info is already out there on how to do it, just look it up like I did. Pictures and videos in time, this is a very busy time in my life.
I would recommend this to anybody wanting more performance out of these cars that is mechanically inclined. The increase in bottom end power is substantial, and its right where you need it and use it in every day driving. Very fun to mess with the wanna-be ricers, I had one just yesterday revving his little fart pipe in front of me while in traffic, I left a 15 foot gap in front of me, floored it and let off (with around 13lbs of boost), the turbo surged awesomely and sounded mean as hell, and I smiled as he craned his neck to see what the hell that was behind him lol. No more revving
(06-22-2011, 09:00 PM)led-panzer the turbo surged awesomely and sounded mean as hell
(06-22-2011, 09:00 PM)led-panzer the turbo surged awesomely and sounded mean as hell
Small update.
I finished the oil drain (finally) last week. Went to parker and bought 60 bucks in hose and fittings. Didn't work. Solved it with 8" of garden hose. Fail. I know, I know garden hose isn't appropriate but it works.
In taking the turbo in and out several times and dicking around with it, the two little bolts that hold the vacuum actuator stripped. I tried to epoxy them in, which worked for a couple days but not anymore. So lately I've been running it purely pressure actuated, which is not a good idea. It hisses constantly, and I have around 5psi of backpressure just cruising. I also cannot get over 11psi of boost no matter how hard I flog it, with the vacuum actuator I would get 15-16 peak. Must be due to the pressure actuator fighting the spring in the vacuum actuator, which opens the vanes slower. So ill have to take it all out again and drill the compressor housing out for a bigger thread for those two bolts.
That sucks! Do you have enough room to remove just the compressor housing? Might make it a bit quicker...
(07-22-2011, 12:24 PM)300D50 Get some aluminum filings and mix them with the epoxy first...
(07-22-2011, 12:24 PM)300D50 Get some aluminum filings and mix them with the epoxy first...
(07-22-2011, 01:14 PM)led-panzer(07-22-2011, 12:24 PM)300D50 Get some aluminum filings and mix them with the epoxy first...
Didn't think of that one.....
Yea the whole damn thing has to come out, everything is so close together. They were some small metric thread, I think I'm going to drill straight through and use 10-32 nuts and bolts.
How much time do we spend cursing modern cars for never having any room to work and I go and do the same thing lol. Price of progress I guess. Putting 15lbs of shit into a 10lb sack
(07-22-2011, 01:14 PM)led-panzer(07-22-2011, 12:24 PM)300D50 Get some aluminum filings and mix them with the epoxy first...
Didn't think of that one.....
Yea the whole damn thing has to come out, everything is so close together. They were some small metric thread, I think I'm going to drill straight through and use 10-32 nuts and bolts.
How much time do we spend cursing modern cars for never having any room to work and I go and do the same thing lol. Price of progress I guess. Putting 15lbs of shit into a 10lb sack
I have new found motivation to get this beast to go faster. Just barely beat a piece of shit 90's civic light to light last night. Guess he wanted to race when he saw the gauges on my dash, he made an ass of himself revving and what not, I could tell all he had was the exhaust cut off and the advantage of a stick. Even though I won I still thought I was faster than that lol.
Time to schedule a pump day......
Do it!
28.1 mpg this last tank
Well it looks like my turbo is kaput. I took it apart and fixed it, put it all back together again, really noticed a loss of power, took it apart again....... And noticed that its bypassing quite a bit of oil on the compressor side, and the very edges of the wheel look like they have made contact with the housing a couple times. Max boost is 10 psi with 20 psi backpressure, and its a dog in the mid and upper rpm range. Lots of shaft play.
So, I need a new turbo. I don't really want to buy another used turbo with unknown history and mileage that might only last me 6 months like this one, and I can't afford a brand new turbo. Kinda stuck on this problem. I don't think I want another vnt, my control system is too primative, just a regular wastegated turbo.
Any suggestions? I would love something like an hx30 but they pop up on ebay like twice a year and it puts me with the same "mystery turbo" situation.
I have spent WAY too much money on this car in the past month. I think its a sickness, or an addiction. Anyways, you guys are the only ones who would understand.
New:
LCA Bushings
Lower Ball Joints
Upper Control Arms
Guide Rod Mounts
Tie Rods
Center Link
Steering Damper
Rear Axles
Bilstein HD's all around
All new brakes
Feels like a brand new car. As it well should any time you put $1500 into your car
I also found a new set of rims and tires on ebay, 17" AMG rims - theyre 7.5 inches wide in the front and 8.5 inches wide in the rear, and they came with a set of new pirelli pzero rosso tires attatched - 225/45 in the front and 245/40 in the rear.
Need a new set of lug bolts for these, theyre in the mail as we speak. Stock ones are 15mm to short. After rebuilding the front end I gained about 3 inches of height on the front - Ive been driving a lowered car this whole time and I didnt even know it
Next up is a spring compressor (borrowed a real shitty one to do the work, never again) and Im going to cut 2 coils and use 4 nub pads in the front. This should give me the drop i want and stiffen it up a bit as well.
Once I get the lug bolts and get the rims bolted on Ill add pics
(02-13-2012, 09:55 PM)led-panzer I have spent WAY too much money on this car in the past month. I think its a sickness, or an addiction. Anyways, you guys are the only ones who would understand.
New:
LCA Bushings
Lower Ball Joints
Upper Control Arms
Guide Rod Mounts
Tie Rods
Center Link
Steering Damper
Rear Axles
Bilstein HD's all around
All new brakes
Feels like a brand new car. As it well should any time you put $1500 into your car
I also found a new set of rims and tires on ebay, 17" AMG rims - theyre 7.5 inches wide in the front and 8.5 inches wide in the rear, and they came with a set of new pirelli pzero rosso tires attatched - 225/45 in the front and 245/40 in the rear.
Need a new set of lug bolts for these, theyre in the mail as we speak. Stock ones are 15mm to short. After rebuilding the front end I gained about 3 inches of height on the front - Ive been driving a lowered car this whole time and I didnt even know it
Next up is a spring compressor (borrowed a real shitty one to do the work, never again) and Im going to cut 2 coils and use 4 nub pads in the front. This should give me the drop i want and stiffen it up a bit as well.
Once I get the lug bolts and get the rims bolted on Ill add pics
(02-13-2012, 09:55 PM)led-panzer I have spent WAY too much money on this car in the past month. I think its a sickness, or an addiction. Anyways, you guys are the only ones who would understand.
New:
LCA Bushings
Lower Ball Joints
Upper Control Arms
Guide Rod Mounts
Tie Rods
Center Link
Steering Damper
Rear Axles
Bilstein HD's all around
All new brakes
Feels like a brand new car. As it well should any time you put $1500 into your car
I also found a new set of rims and tires on ebay, 17" AMG rims - theyre 7.5 inches wide in the front and 8.5 inches wide in the rear, and they came with a set of new pirelli pzero rosso tires attatched - 225/45 in the front and 245/40 in the rear.
Need a new set of lug bolts for these, theyre in the mail as we speak. Stock ones are 15mm to short. After rebuilding the front end I gained about 3 inches of height on the front - Ive been driving a lowered car this whole time and I didnt even know it
Next up is a spring compressor (borrowed a real shitty one to do the work, never again) and Im going to cut 2 coils and use 4 nub pads in the front. This should give me the drop i want and stiffen it up a bit as well.
Once I get the lug bolts and get the rims bolted on Ill add pics
New rims are a ball seat. Found the lugs on ebay, set of 20 for $38.00
I'll admit, I did not shop around whatsoever, just bought em when I found em
(02-13-2012, 09:55 PM)led-panzer I have spent WAY too much money on this car in the past month. I think its a sickness, or an addiction. Anyways, you guys are the only ones who would understand.
(02-13-2012, 09:55 PM)led-panzer I have spent WAY too much money on this car in the past month. I think its a sickness, or an addiction. Anyways, you guys are the only ones who would understand.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
You can always run a vacuum-only VGT actuator and a vacuum reservoir & electric pump
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
I fixed my dual actuator setup some time ago, I just have a turbo that's on its way out. I have a new holset that's going on after some unfinished maintenance...
I fixed it good too - drilled the compressor housing through this time and tapped it, used 1/4-20 bolts to hold the vacuum actuator bracket. There, now break I dare you lol
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
What Holset are you going to use? I'm hoping to make a HE351V work (yeah it's way too big for stock fueling)
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(04-29-2011, 10:05 PM)led-panzer I also picked up my oil supply line and the beginings of an exhaust (thats a 3'' elbow)What did the supply end of the hose look like? Crimp banjo fitting?
(04-29-2011, 10:05 PM)led-panzer I also picked up my oil supply line and the beginings of an exhaust (thats a 3'' elbow)What did the supply end of the hose look like? Crimp banjo fitting?
Holy thread bump batman lol
I used a metric (M12?) to pipe thread 90 degree adaptor, the hose was crimped with pipe threads and swivels on both ends.
Yah I didn't realize quite how long you have been at this project.
Pretty cool about the new block and head. I think more of these cars had that stuff done than people know.
On that note, I was hoping to get the turbo swap done this week while I replace my head, but there are a few too many details like this to knock out:
T3 to T25 Adaptor plate (ebay)
Wastegate actuator relocate and/or extender pipe with flanges to move the turbo out away from the motor a bit for space
Oil drain - liking the garden hose idea actually
Oil supply line/turbo adapter/banjo fitting ( I think it is M14 but haven't pulled it to check yet )
Exhaust outlet flange/connector pipe (cnc flange from ebay then weld the pipe and vband on)
The devil is always in the details. Between this forum, amazon, ebay and online hose shops a guy can do a fair amount of damage though.
Got the new pump on yet?
This car was my first diesel, first Benz. I was like a baby learning to walk - I learned a whole hell of a lot, mostly by doing things the wrong way first.
It's currently my parts car, parked next to my garage. Once I pull the engine I'll be scrapping it.
The new pump will go on the '84 Tuesday, I should have the whole fuel system wrapped up.
.
Oh yes I forgot you mentioned getting the newer car. I also have a parts car, but it is in the wrong time zone.
FYI that bolt in the filter housing for the turbo oil supply is M14 x 1.5 per startekinfo, at least on an om617.952.
The cummins turbo came with a 3/8" OEM ORFS adapter for the supply line into the M10 x 1.25 he200wg turbo housing threads. So I ordered 3/8" hydraulic hose and crimp on swivel fittings from hydraulicsdirect.com for female ORFS connections on both ends, with a long reach 90 degree elbow on the turbo end, straight 3/8" ORFS on the filter end, and a 90 degree male ORFS to M14 adapter elbow into the filter housing. Will have to get it crimped locally I think as I didn't see that option on their site, but NBD.
I'm mainly posting this to help anyone else who needs to make a supply line. These forums are invaluable for such minutia.