Tito's w114 with OM606, HX40 and 8mm dieselmeken pump.
Tito's w114 with OM606, HX40 and 8mm dieselmeken pump.
(04-11-2014, 03:18 AM)Tito I know. That's why I'm a little scared holding 3 bar of inlet pressure and make sure the valves stay shut. Isn't the intake valves that take the most beating? On the current engine the emp is about 2 bar and my intake 2.5 bar.
Intake closes with rising cylinder pressure, so it shouldn't be a problem.
shadowmaker
04-11-2014, 03:53 AM #51(04-11-2014, 03:18 AM)Tito I know. That's why I'm a little scared holding 3 bar of inlet pressure and make sure the valves stay shut. Isn't the intake valves that take the most beating? On the current engine the emp is about 2 bar and my intake 2.5 bar.
Intake closes with rising cylinder pressure, so it shouldn't be a problem.
High pressure works against de valve spring. actually pushing it open. The exhaust valve had to be closed in time because the piston is going upwards. On the inlet stroke the valve closes when the piston reaches the bottom. So it can never hit the valve. Even if it stays open the coming compression stroke and rising pressure in the cilinder is closing it. It does affect performance i think....
(04-15-2014, 04:19 PM)erling66 I don't really see what EMP has to do with valve floating problems
Maybe you can explain?
Like Tito already stated, EMP (=exhaust mani pressure) is working against your ex-valve springs (which have originally low closing pressure as EMP is supposed to be low). I'd assume it's not that bad when ex valve is closing, but after that, just after TDC piston is going down and pulling a vacuum into the cylinder, the pressure different is in it's worst. It don't take a lot of hot and oxygen depleted gas to enter the cylinder and combustion is affected.
Been there, done that.
shadowmaker
04-17-2014, 07:24 AM #55(04-15-2014, 04:19 PM)erling66 I don't really see what EMP has to do with valve floating problems
Maybe you can explain?
Like Tito already stated, EMP (=exhaust mani pressure) is working against your ex-valve springs (which have originally low closing pressure as EMP is supposed to be low). I'd assume it's not that bad when ex valve is closing, but after that, just after TDC piston is going down and pulling a vacuum into the cylinder, the pressure different is in it's worst. It don't take a lot of hot and oxygen depleted gas to enter the cylinder and combustion is affected.
Been there, done that.
Shadowmaker wrote: "just after TDC piston is going down and pulling a vacuum into the cylinder, the pressure different is in it's worst"
Piston is not pulling a vacuum after TDC, the intake valve has already opened and air is flowing in from turbo pressure, and exhaust valve is already closed(if not, it would have hit the piston on TDC)
Well I think you guys are wrong. Exhaust pressure is coming from the cylinder so it will always be higher there since the exhaust valve is a restriction. both when the piston is at bottom and valve is opening and also when piston is going up and pushing out exhaust gas.
Shadowmaker wrote: "just after TDC piston is going down and pulling a vacuum into the cylinder, the pressure different is in it's worst"
Piston is not pulling a vacuum after TDC, the intake valve has already opened and air is flowing in from turbo pressure, and exhaust valve is already closed(if not, it would have hit the piston on TDC)
(04-18-2014, 01:47 AM)erling66 Well I think you guys are wrong. Exhaust pressure is coming from the cylinder so it will always be higher there since the exhaust valve is a restriction. both when the piston is at bottom and valve is opening and also when piston is going up and pushing out exhaust gas.
Shadowmaker wrote: "just after TDC piston is going down and pulling a vacuum into the cylinder, the pressure different is in it's worst"
Piston is not pulling a vacuum after TDC, the intake valve has already opened and air is flowing in from turbo pressure, and exhaust valve is already closed(if not, it would have hit the piston on TDC)
Got 70hp more on my VW T4 2.5TDI, by just changing ex-valve springs (closing pressure 22kg -> 36kg). Nothing else was done between dyno runs (still using original in-valve springs with 22kg closing pressure). Power got from 250hp to 320hp and smoke cleared. This was some ten years ago.
Cylinder pressure can stay above vacuum in charged engine, but still the cylinder pressure is at it's lowest while EMP is at it's highest at this point (ex valve is just closed and piston is going down). Can't figure out what else could be the reason for sudden power increase in my van, but I'm happy to hear if someone could.
shadowmaker
04-18-2014, 11:16 AM #57(04-18-2014, 01:47 AM)erling66 Well I think you guys are wrong. Exhaust pressure is coming from the cylinder so it will always be higher there since the exhaust valve is a restriction. both when the piston is at bottom and valve is opening and also when piston is going up and pushing out exhaust gas.
Shadowmaker wrote: "just after TDC piston is going down and pulling a vacuum into the cylinder, the pressure different is in it's worst"
Piston is not pulling a vacuum after TDC, the intake valve has already opened and air is flowing in from turbo pressure, and exhaust valve is already closed(if not, it would have hit the piston on TDC)
Got 70hp more on my VW T4 2.5TDI, by just changing ex-valve springs (closing pressure 22kg -> 36kg). Nothing else was done between dyno runs (still using original in-valve springs with 22kg closing pressure). Power got from 250hp to 320hp and smoke cleared. This was some ten years ago.
Cylinder pressure can stay above vacuum in charged engine, but still the cylinder pressure is at it's lowest while EMP is at it's highest at this point (ex valve is just closed and piston is going down). Can't figure out what else could be the reason for sudden power increase in my van, but I'm happy to hear if someone could.
While i'm here, I can write a little update.
Had some time to pull the head of the om606. Took quite a while because I snapped 3 torx sockets and needed to drill 3 cilinderhead bolts. They where seized or something...
![[Image: 6F4CCB8B-060F-455D-8D0D-DAF75B9EF097.jpg]](http://s1267.photobucket.com/user/Titotyfus/media/6F4CCB8B-060F-455D-8D0D-DAF75B9EF097.jpg.html)
Head off
![[Image: DB0A1670-DF73-4B8C-AB26-D148E696368E.jpg]](http://s1267.photobucket.com/user/Titotyfus/media/DB0A1670-DF73-4B8C-AB26-D148E696368E.jpg.html)
This stuff was in there. It was also in the inlet before the valves. It was the main reason I wanted to pull the head. When i bought the engine I know it hasn't been touched for quite a while but there where some new clean paper towels shoved in the inlet probably just for making it look good when selling it.
![[Image: A6C45E0B-A3BF-4B15-979B-EAC3FC433B50.jpg]](http://s1267.photobucket.com/user/Titotyfus/media/A6C45E0B-A3BF-4B15-979B-EAC3FC433B50.jpg.html)
Very nasty corroded edge on the cilinder linings. But it's easy removable and the piston rings cannot reach it. So I see no problem. Just need that cilinder grinding stone (don't know the english name) to fix it.
Now I need some time to turn the engine over, remove the pistons and check the bearings and rings. If there in good condition I just leave them on. Any sign of wear and i'll be replacing everything.
I also have a new job at a Volkswagen tuning shop / DSG specialist. Allowing me to build my own manifolds and get the car on the dyno
http://www.vr6specialist.nl/start.php?t=en&p=vr610
Also still thinking of compound or staged charge. I have a stock turbo, and the HX35... I think the HX35 is to big for the HX40 Super I bought from Alcaid here in this forum. Any ideas?
12cm
While i'm here, I can write a little update.
Had some time to pull the head of the om606. Took quite a while because I snapped 3 torx sockets and needed to drill 3 cilinderhead bolts. They where seized or something...
Head off
This stuff was in there. It was also in the inlet before the valves. It was the main reason I wanted to pull the head. When i bought the engine I know it hasn't been touched for quite a while but there where some new clean paper towels shoved in the inlet probably just for making it look good when selling it.
Very nasty corroded edge on the cilinder linings. But it's easy removable and the piston rings cannot reach it. So I see no problem. Just need that cilinder grinding stone (don't know the english name) to fix it.
Now I need some time to turn the engine over, remove the pistons and check the bearings and rings. If there in good condition I just leave them on. Any sign of wear and i'll be replacing everything.
I also have a new job at a Volkswagen tuning shop / DSG specialist. Allowing me to build my own manifolds and get the car on the dyno
http://www.vr6specialist.nl/start.php?t=en&p=vr610
Also still thinking of compound or staged charge. I have a stock turbo, and the HX35... I think the HX35 is to big for the HX40 Super I bought from Alcaid here in this forum. Any ideas?
You need to go compound, it is the only sane thing to do..
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
That engine looks to be in fairly bad condition, how did the oil/filters look?
You need to go compound, it is the only sane thing to do..
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
Found a m90 charger at work. How do you think that'll do? It's a nice cheap option because i can probably just pick it from the shelf
believe it or not, the rest of the engine looks spotless! it's a shame I just deleted the foto's of the rod bearings. They looked <50000 km. Its just the nasty corroded edges. Looks very bad but IRL it's not that bad. Engine is almost back together. The problem is finding time with my new job and school...
Found a m90 charger at work. How do you think that'll do? It's a nice cheap option because i can probably just pick it from the shelf
(09-18-2014, 07:19 AM)Hario That engine looks to be in fairly bad condition, how did the oil/filters look?
You need to go compound, it is the only sane thing to do..
It does look like it got the ol' "rode hard and put away wet" treatment, but if the rest of the internals checked out (as mentioned already) I wouldn't lose sleep on it. Has all the appearances of that proverbial "bulletproof" MB turbodiesel. YAYYYYYY!
And here's another vote for the compound setup. Pretty sure that will pass uncontested.
(05-13-2014, 04:30 PM)Tito Very nasty corroded edge on the cilinder linings. But it's easy removable and the piston rings cannot reach it. So I see no problem. Just need that cilinder grinding stone (don't know the english name) to fix it.
Now I need some time to turn the engine over, remove the pistons and check the bearings and rings. If there in good condition I just leave them on. Any sign of wear and i'll be replacing everything.
I also have a new job at a Volkswagen tuning shop / DSG specialist. Allowing me to build my own manifolds and get the car on the dyno
You're thinking of a honing stone and, though I'm not 100% certain, it might not be advisable if the rotating mass will stay in place. I don't see any reason to hit just the upper walls, but I could be completely off here.
Either way when can I stop by and pick up my new 603a manifolds, o' buddy o' pal???? |8-D
(05-13-2014, 04:30 PM)Tito Also still thinking of compound or staged charge. I have a stock turbo, and the HX35... I think the HX35 is to big for the HX40 Super I bought from Alcaid here in this forum. Any ideas?:wink::thumbsup:
MBZ123
(09-18-2014, 07:19 AM)Hario That engine looks to be in fairly bad condition, how did the oil/filters look?
You need to go compound, it is the only sane thing to do..
It does look like it got the ol' "rode hard and put away wet" treatment, but if the rest of the internals checked out (as mentioned already) I wouldn't lose sleep on it. Has all the appearances of that proverbial "bulletproof" MB turbodiesel. YAYYYYYY!
And here's another vote for the compound setup. Pretty sure that will pass uncontested.
(05-13-2014, 04:30 PM)Tito Very nasty corroded edge on the cilinder linings. But it's easy removable and the piston rings cannot reach it. So I see no problem. Just need that cilinder grinding stone (don't know the english name) to fix it.
Now I need some time to turn the engine over, remove the pistons and check the bearings and rings. If there in good condition I just leave them on. Any sign of wear and i'll be replacing everything.
I also have a new job at a Volkswagen tuning shop / DSG specialist. Allowing me to build my own manifolds and get the car on the dyno
You're thinking of a honing stone and, though I'm not 100% certain, it might not be advisable if the rotating mass will stay in place. I don't see any reason to hit just the upper walls, but I could be completely off here.
Either way when can I stop by and pick up my new 603a manifolds, o' buddy o' pal???? |8-D
(05-13-2014, 04:30 PM)Tito Also still thinking of compound or staged charge. I have a stock turbo, and the HX35... I think the HX35 is to big for the HX40 Super I bought from Alcaid here in this forum. Any ideas?:wink::thumbsup:
MBZ123
(09-19-2014, 05:17 PM)mbz123(09-18-2014, 07:19 AM)Hario That engine looks to be in fairly bad condition, how did the oil/filters look?
You need to go compound, it is the only sane thing to do..
It does look like it got the ol' "rode hard and put away wet" treatment, but if the rest of the internals checked out (as mentioned already) I wouldn't lose sleep on it. Has all the appearances of that proverbial "bulletproof" MB turbodiesel. YAYYYYYY!
And here's another vote for the compound setup. Pretty sure that will pass uncontested.
(05-13-2014, 04:30 PM)Tito Very nasty corroded edge on the cilinder linings. But it's easy removable and the piston rings cannot reach it. So I see no problem. Just need that cilinder grinding stone (don't know the english name) to fix it.
Now I need some time to turn the engine over, remove the pistons and check the bearings and rings. If there in good condition I just leave them on. Any sign of wear and i'll be replacing everything.
I also have a new job at a Volkswagen tuning shop / DSG specialist. Allowing me to build my own manifolds and get the car on the dyno
You're thinking of a honing stone and, though I'm not 100% certain, it might not be advisable if the rotating mass will stay in place. I don't see any reason to hit just the upper walls, but I could be completely off here.
Either way when can I stop by and pick up my new 603a manifolds, o' buddy o' pal???? |8-D
(05-13-2014, 04:30 PM)Tito Also still thinking of compound or staged charge. I have a stock turbo, and the HX35... I think the HX35 is to big for the HX40 Super I bought from Alcaid here in this forum. Any ideas?:wink::thumbsup:
MBZ123
I'll try to find a pic of how the cilinder linings look now. I indeed meant a honing stone. I used it trough the entire cilinder. It's indeed useless to just grind the top since no piston ring is reaching it, but it helps oil to stick to the lining better.
I'm definably going compound. I'm thinking to let charger blow trough the turbo, and when hitting a certain rpm or pre-turbo pressure (still need to find out which will work best, probably both) a free flowing valve opens and the turbo can suck from that.
The other way I was thinking is just charger and turbo parallel to each other and use some valve to switch between each other. Problem here is I think the power curve will not be as smooth...
(09-19-2014, 10:13 PM)Whizbang so how is the driveablity of an om603 with the HX35? its right off a cummins correct? with twice the displacement? I would think it to be rather laggy.I have this video when it still had the auto-tranny. As you can see the boost kicks in just after the stall speed of the torque converter. So about 2500 rpm. BTW tranny was scrap as you can see. Extreme shift flares so i needed to let the throttle go.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUzK4wuj...A6MjbZ3ohA
(09-19-2014, 05:17 PM)mbz123(09-18-2014, 07:19 AM)Hario That engine looks to be in fairly bad condition, how did the oil/filters look?
You need to go compound, it is the only sane thing to do..
It does look like it got the ol' "rode hard and put away wet" treatment, but if the rest of the internals checked out (as mentioned already) I wouldn't lose sleep on it. Has all the appearances of that proverbial "bulletproof" MB turbodiesel. YAYYYYYY!
And here's another vote for the compound setup. Pretty sure that will pass uncontested.
(05-13-2014, 04:30 PM)Tito Very nasty corroded edge on the cilinder linings. But it's easy removable and the piston rings cannot reach it. So I see no problem. Just need that cilinder grinding stone (don't know the english name) to fix it.
Now I need some time to turn the engine over, remove the pistons and check the bearings and rings. If there in good condition I just leave them on. Any sign of wear and i'll be replacing everything.
I also have a new job at a Volkswagen tuning shop / DSG specialist. Allowing me to build my own manifolds and get the car on the dyno
You're thinking of a honing stone and, though I'm not 100% certain, it might not be advisable if the rotating mass will stay in place. I don't see any reason to hit just the upper walls, but I could be completely off here.
Either way when can I stop by and pick up my new 603a manifolds, o' buddy o' pal???? |8-D
(05-13-2014, 04:30 PM)Tito Also still thinking of compound or staged charge. I have a stock turbo, and the HX35... I think the HX35 is to big for the HX40 Super I bought from Alcaid here in this forum. Any ideas?:wink::thumbsup:
MBZ123
I'll try to find a pic of how the cilinder linings look now. I indeed meant a honing stone. I used it trough the entire cilinder. It's indeed useless to just grind the top since no piston ring is reaching it, but it helps oil to stick to the lining better.
I'm definably going compound. I'm thinking to let charger blow trough the turbo, and when hitting a certain rpm or pre-turbo pressure (still need to find out which will work best, probably both) a free flowing valve opens and the turbo can suck from that.
The other way I was thinking is just charger and turbo parallel to each other and use some valve to switch between each other. Problem here is I think the power curve will not be as smooth...
(09-19-2014, 10:13 PM)Whizbang so how is the driveablity of an om603 with the HX35? its right off a cummins correct? with twice the displacement? I would think it to be rather laggy.I have this video when it still had the auto-tranny. As you can see the boost kicks in just after the stall speed of the torque converter. So about 2500 rpm. BTW tranny was scrap as you can see. Extreme shift flares so i needed to let the throttle go.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUzK4wuj...A6MjbZ3ohA
![[Image: 20140226_153939.jpg]](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--qy5nuVvaqI/Uw4MEDLBU_I/AAAAAAAADLQ/acTmgOF0u2E/s640/20140226_153939.jpg)
That corrosion at the top reminds me of an engine I was helping to rebuild. All the liners had corrosion at the top due to bad fuel (i think) and all we did was take a scotch wheel on a die grinder and remove it all before removing the pistons. This pic was taken afterwards.
Now that the valves are out I can go hunting for some stronger springs. Maybe I have some laying around at work that fit.
![[Image: 0BB8B9D5-4721-4C69-9204-EE6A11197528.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/0BB8B9D5-4721-4C69-9204-EE6A11197528.jpg)
![[Image: A9F6E2E0-DB4A-48E1-91EE-0591FB807DE3.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/A9F6E2E0-DB4A-48E1-91EE-0591FB807DE3.jpg)
![[Image: D337FB57-D33E-4CF5-ACCD-2C7438A265B5.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/D337FB57-D33E-4CF5-ACCD-2C7438A265B5.jpg)
![[Image: 428C4D00-112C-4099-8DCB-0193D944BF02.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/428C4D00-112C-4099-8DCB-0193D944BF02.jpg)
Hey guys it's been a while, but I did some work on the engine again. Removed and cleaned the valves, and fixed 3 snapped glow plugs. God that was horrible... Luckily I got them all out. I'm now looking at how to remove the pre chambers. I need some kind of weird tool to screw out the chamber holder. Anybody any idea where to get those?
Now that the valves are out I can go hunting for some stronger springs. Maybe I have some laying around at work that fit.
I bought a car with a broken 2.0l petrol engine. No rust except the wheel arches which I will just put some chrome trimming over it for now.
The engine has about 2cm of play up and down with the oilsump on the crossmember. I'll probably reweld the oil sump for more clearance. Need to relocate the oil filter housing and somehow make space around the master brake cylinder. Still got the old n/a hx35 w124 with ill be using for parts.
![[Image: 58E4C067-CD28-4AA7-9857-166E6495E682.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/58E4C067-CD28-4AA7-9857-166E6495E682.jpg)
![[Image: 26CB7D56-DDBE-400B-9BD5-3C52E07BB255.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/26CB7D56-DDBE-400B-9BD5-3C52E07BB255.jpg)
Hey guys. Again a long time ago. But plans have changed. The om606 goes w114.
I bought a car with a broken 2.0l petrol engine. No rust except the wheel arches which I will just put some chrome trimming over it for now.
The engine has about 2cm of play up and down with the oilsump on the crossmember. I'll probably reweld the oil sump for more clearance. Need to relocate the oil filter housing and somehow make space around the master brake cylinder. Still got the old n/a hx35 w124 with ill be using for parts.
gr rene
w124 300 turbodiesel '86
C124 300 turbodiesel coupe '93
w114 300 turbodiesel '69
http://youtu.be/RFLEg7X09dI
i used om603 oilpan and relocated brakebooster , no problem with oilfilter when you cut the angled bars
gr rene
w124 300 turbodiesel '86
C124 300 turbodiesel coupe '93
w114 300 turbodiesel '69
http://youtu.be/RFLEg7X09dI
Luckily i've still got the 603 from the w124. However i'm not sure I want to use that engine for parts.... The idea was to build it in my tractor one day... I can probably reweld the sump for cheap.
yeah the angled bars got to go. They also hit the intake manifold. The master brake cylinder is leaking fluid so i'm upgrading all brake parts from the w124. I hope that'll give me some clearance.
btw, what did you do with the engine mounts?
Thank you! I've seen your w114 on youtube many times. Awesome build. So I'm very happy that you're chiming in here
Luckily i've still got the 603 from the w124. However i'm not sure I want to use that engine for parts.... The idea was to build it in my tractor one day... I can probably reweld the sump for cheap.
yeah the angled bars got to go. They also hit the intake manifold. The master brake cylinder is leaking fluid so i'm upgrading all brake parts from the w124. I hope that'll give me some clearance.
btw, what did you do with the engine mounts?
btw i now am working on om606 in that w114 coupe
gr rene
w124 300 turbodiesel '86
C124 300 turbodiesel coupe '93
w114 300 turbodiesel '69
http://youtu.be/RFLEg7X09dI
engine mounts from 603 and you have to relocate the rubber from w114 forward a bit
btw i now am working on om606 in that w114 coupe
gr rene
w124 300 turbodiesel '86
C124 300 turbodiesel coupe '93
w114 300 turbodiesel '69
http://youtu.be/RFLEg7X09dI
i think only moderator can change title
gr rene
w124 300 turbodiesel '86
C124 300 turbodiesel coupe '93
w114 300 turbodiesel '69
http://youtu.be/RFLEg7X09dI
no building thread sorry
i think only moderator can change title
gr rene
w124 300 turbodiesel '86
C124 300 turbodiesel coupe '93
w114 300 turbodiesel '69
http://youtu.be/RFLEg7X09dI
How much power?
I have no IC and hope my setup does not go over 1.5bar and i dont have to get external WG?
I have problems with gearbox too.
1999 S210 Edc pump. 7.5mm dieselmeken element.
HX35W turbo, custom map.
Brakes 330mm 4 piston brembo CL500, bolt on fit. Longer brake lines. 3mm spacers.
260km/h
2.1 boost for now.
16 inch steel wheels with 20mm spacers.
Tito, i see on this w124 om603 you have hx35 exactly like mine. No WG. From pictures you have the same turbo. In first post you said you have 1.4 bar boost. How much fuel do you have from this 7mm elements?
How much power?
I have no IC and hope my setup does not go over 1.5bar and i dont have to get external WG?
I have problems with gearbox too.
1999 S210 Edc pump. 7.5mm dieselmeken element.
HX35W turbo, custom map.
Brakes 330mm 4 piston brembo CL500, bolt on fit. Longer brake lines. 3mm spacers.
260km/h
2.1 boost for now.
16 inch steel wheels with 20mm spacers.
I actually have a HX35w (with wastegate). I don't know what mods I did with 1.4 bar... I knew for sure I had the 7mm pump. Not adjusted to max fuel. I thought it had about 100cc / 110cc. Later I tweaked the engine some more and after trying to adjust the wastegate rod, the rod snapped. So I welded a new rod on it. It was waaaayyyy to tight
opened at a crazy pressure like 4 / 5 bar. I've left it that way because it did like 2.5 / 3 bar at WOT and I was okay with it (wastegate fully closed). The extra boost helps cooling.
Did about 300hp. Never got it on a dyno sadly. The clutch went bad before I could do a dyno-run. We have a dyno at work which I can use for free.
I would definably recommend using an intercooler. It's easy to install a standard sized intercooler and piping under the headlights. I don't know if a wastegate is really necessary,but it does control the boost.... so yeah... you'll have to try I guess...
Edit: now that i'm thinking.... There's a chance the wastegate did open due to the actuator and back pressure combined... I doubt it though....
Hi erio.
I actually have a HX35w (with wastegate). I don't know what mods I did with 1.4 bar... I knew for sure I had the 7mm pump. Not adjusted to max fuel. I thought it had about 100cc / 110cc. Later I tweaked the engine some more and after trying to adjust the wastegate rod, the rod snapped. So I welded a new rod on it. It was waaaayyyy to tight opened at a crazy pressure like 4 / 5 bar.
I've left it that way because it did like 2.5 / 3 bar at WOT and I was okay with it (wastegate fully closed). The extra boost helps cooling.
Did about 300hp. Never got it on a dyno sadly. The clutch went bad before I could do a dyno-run. We have a dyno at work which I can use for free.
I would definably recommend using an intercooler. It's easy to install a standard sized intercooler and piping under the headlights. I don't know if a wastegate is really necessary,but it does control the boost.... so yeah... you'll have to try I guess...
Edit: now that i'm thinking.... There's a chance the wastegate did open due to the actuator and back pressure combined... I doubt it though....
(02-02-2015, 09:12 AM)winmutt What would you like it to be named?
I somehow missed this or completely forgot, but Tito's W114 with OM606 and HX40 or something would be good
If anyone is interested here are some pics without explanation. Don't look at the TIG welds. This is my first time TIG welding an manifold, boost pipes and engine mounts.
![[Image: 47D265BB-605A-4294-805C-BDCFDA895F60.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/47D265BB-605A-4294-805C-BDCFDA895F60.jpg)
![[Image: 990952B9-5C25-4BC4-84C7-F589E195DE6B.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/990952B9-5C25-4BC4-84C7-F589E195DE6B.jpg)
![[Image: 41A2ECFA-88E4-4EA9-AF44-2A1971644486.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/41A2ECFA-88E4-4EA9-AF44-2A1971644486.jpg)
![[Image: 59A67D3B-C15A-486F-8F02-9F655BE83596.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/59A67D3B-C15A-486F-8F02-9F655BE83596.jpg)
![[Image: B7234304-863C-4BAC-B8A5-8DC30B479934.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/B7234304-863C-4BAC-B8A5-8DC30B479934.jpg)
![[Image: 87EC49B3-F317-4C2C-AA30-2F881E18669B.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/87EC49B3-F317-4C2C-AA30-2F881E18669B.jpg)
![[Image: 7F8BE6A4-F0E7-426E-A89E-9FEA0C7E828A.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/7F8BE6A4-F0E7-426E-A89E-9FEA0C7E828A.jpg)
![[Image: 6BB8A88D-7E13-492D-A286-8B2BE2BA4DA9.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/6BB8A88D-7E13-492D-A286-8B2BE2BA4DA9.jpg)
![[Image: 951B3319-2A01-4985-9E22-9B4557114A8F.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/951B3319-2A01-4985-9E22-9B4557114A8F.jpg)
![[Image: 35880D9F-4195-4CB3-B10C-F5B4C723AD3D.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/35880D9F-4195-4CB3-B10C-F5B4C723AD3D.jpg)
![[Image: F45B5A7F-5440-4EC2-8E75-A0234112FEDB.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/F45B5A7F-5440-4EC2-8E75-A0234112FEDB.jpg)
![[Image: 9DAB2361-5AED-4225-8E4A-38A65422F72F.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/9DAB2361-5AED-4225-8E4A-38A65422F72F.jpg)
![[Image: CF9097EB-4D86-412F-B975-24883CF6DA7E.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/CF9097EB-4D86-412F-B975-24883CF6DA7E.jpg)
![[Image: 45117471-A821-4D3D-BDE1-0797A49C24C8.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/45117471-A821-4D3D-BDE1-0797A49C24C8.jpg)
![[Image: D690E456-0FA7-4F39-A55F-E4537763831A.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/D690E456-0FA7-4F39-A55F-E4537763831A.jpg)
![[Image: 407F9CDD-4AD2-40D8-BDA0-D088212F0758.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/407F9CDD-4AD2-40D8-BDA0-D088212F0758.jpg)
![[Image: 291B5715-24ED-4045-A73F-85C63CEA0355.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/291B5715-24ED-4045-A73F-85C63CEA0355.jpg)
![[Image: 50DC2327-6C4B-48E2-A613-751AADCAD802.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/50DC2327-6C4B-48E2-A613-751AADCAD802.jpg)
And yes... It is supposed to sit at an angle.
![[Image: C03F3835-570C-4A89-8511-001AE95F4C6C.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/C03F3835-570C-4A89-8511-001AE95F4C6C.jpg)
![[Image: 82CE0D5B-49E8-44CA-9FAE-C6722484F279.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/82CE0D5B-49E8-44CA-9FAE-C6722484F279.jpg)
![[Image: 7E4D5768-4868-4174-A2B7-719791E57EC2.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/7E4D5768-4868-4174-A2B7-719791E57EC2.jpg)
The pipe coming up is for the waterintercooler. I used a Suzuki radiator for this.
![[Image: 663F90EE-6DD1-4879-8028-C6A8E0C0C39D.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/663F90EE-6DD1-4879-8028-C6A8E0C0C39D.jpg)
![[Image: 0BC9DCA2-6243-4967-8274-1B67567086EA.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/0BC9DCA2-6243-4967-8274-1B67567086EA.jpg)
![[Image: C0FE9EB7-C827-4BF0-8DBF-50C6F37584F5.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/C0FE9EB7-C827-4BF0-8DBF-50C6F37584F5.jpg)
![[Image: F9E5AF85-CF3D-4039-AFBD-783BE2CC0E4E.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/F9E5AF85-CF3D-4039-AFBD-783BE2CC0E4E.jpg)
![[Image: 3C7C40DC-2A98-483C-A7C8-BDE6BD1AAEE9.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/3C7C40DC-2A98-483C-A7C8-BDE6BD1AAEE9.jpg)
![[Image: 317494E0-6D33-4123-B8F0-8C96A042ECF7.jpg]](http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj544/Titotyfus/317494E0-6D33-4123-B8F0-8C96A042ECF7.jpg)
Anddddd.... here we are today.
(02-02-2015, 09:12 AM)winmutt What would you like it to be named?
I somehow missed this or completely forgot, but Tito's W114 with OM606 and HX40 or something would be good
If anyone is interested here are some pics without explanation. Don't look at the TIG welds. This is my first time TIG welding an manifold, boost pipes and engine mounts.
And yes... It is supposed to sit at an angle.
The pipe coming up is for the waterintercooler. I used a Suzuki radiator for this.
Anddddd.... here we are today.
gr rene
w124 300 turbodiesel '86
C124 300 turbodiesel coupe '93
w114 300 turbodiesel '69
http://youtu.be/RFLEg7X09dI
lots of progress , i like the manifold
gr rene
w124 300 turbodiesel '86
C124 300 turbodiesel coupe '93
w114 300 turbodiesel '69
http://youtu.be/RFLEg7X09dI
I don't like the manifold that much.... I would rather have some longer pipes with equal length who come together just in front of the turbo, like any other manifold. Space was a serious problem. So I went for this. It will do the job I think
The turbo is the HX40 super with internal wastegate. Bought it from Alcaid here on this forum about a year ago. It has the 14cm^2 exhaust housing and 7 blade turbine.
Definably need some kind of isolation between turbo and boost pipe indeed. Like a aluminum shield or a turbo blanket. Maybe I'll just wrap the boost pipe with some heat wrap.
Initially is was going to twin charge it, but I'm just running the Holset for now. Maybe later down the line i'll add the second (stock KKK) turbo to were the oil catch breather is now. I've got some interesting parallel turbocharging ideas in my head. Or fit an M62 / M65 supercharger where the A/C pump use to be. We'll see. First make it road legal.
Thanks everyone.
I don't like the manifold that much.... I would rather have some longer pipes with equal length who come together just in front of the turbo, like any other manifold. Space was a serious problem. So I went for this. It will do the job I think
The turbo is the HX40 super with internal wastegate. Bought it from Alcaid here on this forum about a year ago. It has the 14cm^2 exhaust housing and 7 blade turbine.
Definably need some kind of isolation between turbo and boost pipe indeed. Like a aluminum shield or a turbo blanket. Maybe I'll just wrap the boost pipe with some heat wrap.
Initially is was going to twin charge it, but I'm just running the Holset for now. Maybe later down the line i'll add the second (stock KKK) turbo to were the oil catch breather is now. I've got some interesting parallel turbocharging ideas in my head. Or fit an M62 / M65 supercharger where the A/C pump use to be. We'll see. First make it road legal.
Yes it does. At first the AW rad was sitting to the far left and the engine oil cooler on the right. However it touched the grille at the edges. I moved the engine oil cooler to the bottom behind the license plate (barely visible in the pictures) and moved the rad over to the right. I could actually fit another oil cooler in front of that AW rad because the grille is pointy and hollow in the middle. But I couldn't figure out the oil lines.
What to exp3ct from this combo? (I would like to tune my mercedes w210 1999 in 2 stages. Now stage 1 240 hp . Unforsenable future step 2 with dieselmeken 7.5 elements, custom ex manifold and 3 inch exhaust-400hp.
I will keep stock om606 pump , stock gearbox).
For now stage one
- /Stoct exhaust manifold.
- Adapter to mount hx35w.(what combo is better, flat one combining triangle and t3 flange with 7 holes? Or a 90 degrees facing up , that will make reference for later custom manifold, to make coneccting oil lines intake and exhaust to turbo easier.
- hx35w
- stock 6mm elements tuned for max by remaping.
Is it possible to solder in ECU motherboard a socket for easy chip removal on every remap? W210 computer driven pump.
Best regards from Poland.
erio
1999 S210 Edc pump. 7.5mm dieselmeken element.
HX35W turbo, custom map.
Brakes 330mm 4 piston brembo CL500, bolt on fit. Longer brake lines. 3mm spacers.
260km/h
2.1 boost for now.
16 inch steel wheels with 20mm spacers.
Questtion.
What to exp3ct from this combo? (I would like to tune my mercedes w210 1999 in 2 stages. Now stage 1 240 hp . Unforsenable future step 2 with dieselmeken 7.5 elements, custom ex manifold and 3 inch exhaust-400hp.
I will keep stock om606 pump , stock gearbox).
For now stage one
- /Stoct exhaust manifold.
- Adapter to mount hx35w.(what combo is better, flat one combining triangle and t3 flange with 7 holes? Or a 90 degrees facing up , that will make reference for later custom manifold, to make coneccting oil lines intake and exhaust to turbo easier.
- hx35w
- stock 6mm elements tuned for max by remaping.
Is it possible to solder in ECU motherboard a socket for easy chip removal on every remap? W210 computer driven pump.
Best regards from Poland.
erio
1999 S210 Edc pump. 7.5mm dieselmeken element.
HX35W turbo, custom map.
Brakes 330mm 4 piston brembo CL500, bolt on fit. Longer brake lines. 3mm spacers.
260km/h
2.1 boost for now.
16 inch steel wheels with 20mm spacers.
hx 40 8 blade had 54mm inducer
hx 40 7 blade "super" with small 14cm exhaust housing has 56mm
all other 7 blade has 58mm or 60mm
HX 40 Pro 6 blade has 60mm
you have to be sure if you messure ~59mm compressor entry the compressor cant be 60mm. There are about 0.4mm radial clearance. So you dont have 60mm inducer then, its 58mm
hx 35 8 blade has 52mm inducer
hx 40 8 blade had 54mm inducer
hx 40 7 blade "super" with small 14cm exhaust housing has 56mm
all other 7 blade has 58mm or 60mm
HX 40 Pro 6 blade has 60mm
you have to be sure if you messure ~59mm compressor entry the compressor cant be 60mm. There are about 0.4mm radial clearance. So you dont have 60mm inducer then, its 58mm
(01-10-2016, 03:32 AM)erio Questtion.
What to exp3ct from this combo? (I would like to tune my mercedes w210 1999 in 2 stages. Now stage 1 240 hp . Unforsenable future step 2 with dieselmeken 7.5 elements, custom ex manifold and 3 inch exhaust-400hp.
I will keep stock om606 pump , stock gearbox).
For now stage one
- /Stoct exhaust manifold.
- Adapter to mount hx35w.(what combo is better, flat one combining triangle and t3 flange with 7 holes? Or a 90 degrees facing up , that will make reference for later custom manifold, to make coneccting oil lines intake and exhaust to turbo easier.
- hx35w
- stock 6mm elements tuned for max by remaping.
Is it possible to solder in ECU motherboard a socket for easy chip removal on every remap? W210 computer driven pump.
Best regards from Poland.
erio
Honestly I don't have any ideas about power. I know for sure the mayor influence is from boost and fuel.
I'm aiming at about 550 hp but I'll probably end up abusing the engine...
(01-10-2016, 03:32 AM)erio Questtion.
What to exp3ct from this combo? (I would like to tune my mercedes w210 1999 in 2 stages. Now stage 1 240 hp . Unforsenable future step 2 with dieselmeken 7.5 elements, custom ex manifold and 3 inch exhaust-400hp.
I will keep stock om606 pump , stock gearbox).
For now stage one
- /Stoct exhaust manifold.
- Adapter to mount hx35w.(what combo is better, flat one combining triangle and t3 flange with 7 holes? Or a 90 degrees facing up , that will make reference for later custom manifold, to make coneccting oil lines intake and exhaust to turbo easier.
- hx35w
- stock 6mm elements tuned for max by remaping.
Is it possible to solder in ECU motherboard a socket for easy chip removal on every remap? W210 computer driven pump.
Best regards from Poland.
erio
Honestly I don't have any ideas about power. I know for sure the mayor influence is from boost and fuel.
I'm aiming at about 550 hp but I'll probably end up abusing the engine...
monstercrawlers
01-29-2016, 04:01 PM #95Amazing work there Tito, I'm about to put my 606 in my 114 coupe. Really excited now I've seen yours in there.. What sump did you use in the end? Is there clearance with the w210 sump ?
monstercrawlers
01-30-2016, 08:24 AM #97Have you any pix of your welded sump Tito ? I've started a Facebook page " w114 coupe om606 sleeper " if you would like to follow my progress. I'll be tappin you up for a bit of info if that's ok..
It's basically a L-shaped cut at the front to clear the front cross member. Just below the oil pump and just before the dipstick tube.
Feel free to ask any questions
monstercrawlers
01-31-2016, 09:48 AM #99That's great mate.. I take it you've had to cut the tunnel to fit in a 722.6 is that correct
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