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+--- Thread: Battery Box Relocation (/showthread.php?tid=2525)
Battery Box Relocation - Greazzer - 04-17-2011
Here the battery box that will be going into my trunk tomorrow. It is 14 gauge mild steel. I will be relocating the battery to the trunk tomorrow. This will clear out a bunch of space in my engine bay, making room for my heat exchanger and other items needed to burn WVO. I got tired of the heat exchanger stuffed into the small pocket next to the washer fluid reservoir. I will post some more pictures of the wire, and the box installed with battery. The next project will be relocating the washer fluid reservoir into the trunk, opposite of the battery box. I want a 3 gallon container so that I can run a water-methanol system. That is my next project.
RE: Battery Box Relocation - Greazzer - 04-18-2011
The battery box is in. Here are some pictures that show how I ran the wire, and the final product.
Does anyone know whether or not I need the junction box which I believe is used to remotely turn the engine? If not, I would like to remove it. Please let me know. Thanks.
RE: Battery Box Relocation - larsalan - 04-18-2011
Looks good in your trunk. My car leaks a bunch of rain on both of those side compartments
RE: Battery Box Relocation - Captain America - 04-18-2011
Yeah look nice. Mine fill up too. And I'm a tad scared to put the battery there because when I got rear ended, that part got all smashed up!
RE: Battery Box Relocation - Greazzer - 04-18-2011
Thanks. Mine does not leak -- yet. However, in the event it should, I made the box so that it would block out moisture. The box is water tight except for the two openings for the positive and negative battery cables. I plan on putting rubber flaps on both sides where the battery cable exits the cutouts. Other than possibly removing the battery junction box in the engine bay, I think I am done this project.
RE: Battery Box Relocation - winmutt - 04-19-2011
Atleast you kept the spare. Was that a correct size battery or smaller?
RE: Battery Box Relocation - Greazzer - 04-19-2011
Howdy,
It is the correct sized MB battery for the W123. I think they call it a #49 sized battery ??? I think it probably weighs 49 pounds. BTW: I would never get rid of my spare tire.
RE: Battery Box Relocation - winmutt - 04-19-2011
Interesting, Lance swore a correct one would not fit there.
RE: Battery Box Relocation - Greazzer - 04-19-2011
The box's dimensions are
14" long
8" wide
7 3/4" high
This does not include the flanges that are on all sides of the box
I will double check tonight. I can say that the battery tray only had about 1/2" free space on the "front" and sides, so it must be the "correct" sized battery. I will measure tonight, however.
RE: Battery Box Relocation - 300D50 - 04-19-2011
Group 49 15L 6 7/8W 7 3/16H
RE: Battery Box Relocation - Greazzer - 04-19-2011
I was wrong.The box's dimensions are
14 1/2" x 8" x 7 3/4" and not 14" x 8" x 7 3/4".
I measured the battery and it is 13 3/4" x 6 1/2" x 7"
I also measured the factory battery tray and its OD (to include the curled up part) is 14 1/2" x 8 1/8" (I thought I copied the 2 dimensions for the most part). So, the maximum size for any battery that could fit into this tray would be 14 1/2" x 8 1/8".
I also took a picture of my battery and the label says 49-1. The lower part of the 9 is rubbed off. The picture is horrible --trying to hold a flashlight and taking a picture was tough at night.
RE: Battery Box Relocation - 300D50 - 04-19-2011
Wasn't saying you were wrong, was just posting the info I found on the group49 batteries.
The chart I found must have been oversized for enclosures or some such.
RE: Battery Box Relocation - Greazzer - 04-19-2011
Hey,
You read my post wrong ... I did not think you were suggesting I was wrong. Just trying to post accurate information. For example, I bought my battery cable thinking anything over 13' feet was just enough per a post in this forum. I got 15' feet and just made it by the hairs on my chinny chin chin. If it turned out to be too short, I would have cried since this whole project took about 8 hours collectively. So, for anyone wanting to do this, I recommend at least 17' of cable, and if you have a slightly bigger battery, there is room for an inch or so in length. Thanks for keeping me on my toes ....
RE: Battery Box Relocation - 300D50 - 04-19-2011
Haha, whoops, double-brainfart on my end!
RE: Battery Box Relocation - yankneck696 - 04-20-2011
I wouldsuggest running a dedicated negative cable in addition to the body/frame ground. Steel is not as good of a cunductor & with the age & corrosion, it would be safer.
Ed
RE: Battery Box Relocation - Greazzer - 04-20-2011
I saw that in the other post, but I am confused. What should I run a dedicated negative cable to? Please let me know and I will do it if it's not a major operation. I checked the body panels and they all seem connected. The original negative battery cable was connected to the inner fender, same metal-same type of set up. THANKS for the information and please let me know.
RE: Battery Box Relocation - 300D50 - 04-20-2011
I'd go directly to the engine, preferably the starter bolt. The engine ground cable should take care of it from there.
RE: Battery Box Relocation - Greazzer - 04-20-2011
Here's a dumb question: The starter bolt is positive -- sparks flew when the positive line hit the small wire which is held in place by a phillips head screw. Also, can I get rid of the junction box which is used to remotely turn the engine? Or, do all those wires have some other purpose?
OR -- do you mean the bolt that holds the starter to the block? Or, any block bolt?
Thoughts ?
RE: Battery Box Relocation - 300D50 - 04-20-2011
The one that holds it to the engine, sorry for not clarifying.
RE: Battery Box Relocation - yankneck696 - 04-21-2011
With a negative cable, you will never notice any difference, except for better starts in the winter & maybe brighter headlights. I personally always do this, as I am Ham radio operator & my amplifier draws more than most starters. I actually use silver tinned braid that is equivelant to #2 AWG to bond engine, trans, body parts, exhaust & sometimes brushes for the driveshaft Then I run a piece from the alternator to the starter & directly to the battery.
Yeah, I know it's overkill, but it saves alot of time looking for the little RF energy gremlins when running a true 1.5 KW of RF power (sometimes a tad more) from 1.8 Mhz to 54 Mhz. Also, to replace my MOSFETS is about $1300.00 US.
Ed
RE: Battery Box Relocation - Greazzer - 04-21-2011
Thanks for the info.
Do you have any pictures to give me some ideas on how to run the wire? Because I have a bunch of mod's coming up, it may be a good idea to get great grounds, et cet. I appreciate the heads up.
RE: Battery Box Relocation - yankneck696 - 04-21-2011
Not owning a Merc at the moment, I would start with checking all ground straps (frame, body & engine), clean with stainless or brass wire brush, possibly replace all external star washers, clean attatchment points & use silicone dielectric grease on all connections.
For your aplication, I would run #2 or #4 from the alternator to the starter mounting bolt, to the main part of the body & then back to the battery. Again, clean all attatchment points & use new star washers with dielectric grease.
Now, you can use regular bearing grease & it should work fine, as all it needs to do is keep oxygen from comming in contact to the metal surfaces ( that way no oxidation can happen to deter current flow).
Also, the bond from the alternator case to the starter mounting bolt can be omitted, but I always just do it.
I don't know the sizing & fusing of your alternator positive wire, but personally, I would upgrade it along with a fuse or fusable link that is compatible with the amperage of the alternator ( or possible alternator upgrade).
The engineers use specific charts to size the wiring as to ampacity & legnth to save on materials & weight. I would just use the commonly found wire ampacity charts for 100 foot legnths to reduce possible resistance.
Also, Google "headlight relay mod" to find a way to get brighter headlight performance & check/clean/grease/star washer those connections.
Another thing you might want to consider is to unplug every connection & grease them & cycle them a few times to clean any corrosion & get good connections. All this done will help give trouble free electrical systems.
17 years licensed electrician, 12 years ABYC electrical & electronics certified, 24 of ham radio operation, modification/repair & 6 years automotive electrical work is under my belt.
Ed
RE: Battery Box Relocation - Greazzer - 04-21-2011
Hey,
Thanks for the information!!!!!
I did start cleaning out some of the interior connections a few months back, and adding de-electric grease (stuff in red can by CRC). I did notice some improvement, so all these other check-ups will probably have the combined effect of improving the electric system.
I appreciate it.
RE: Battery Box Relocation - Captain America - 04-21-2011
(04-19-2011, 08:34 PM)Greazzer Hey,
You read my post wrong ... I did not think you were suggesting I was wrong. Just trying to post accurate information. For example, I bought my battery cable thinking anything over 13' feet was just enough per a post in this forum. I got 15' feet and just made it by the hairs on my chinny chin chin. If it turned out to be too short, I would have cried since this whole project took about 8 hours collectively. So, for anyone wanting to do this, I recommend at least 17' of cable, and if you have a slightly bigger battery, there is room for an inch or so in length. Thanks for keeping me on my toes ....
13' Worked perfect for me....
RE: Battery Box Relocation - Greazzer - 04-21-2011
You must have worked magic ... and followed the principle that the closets distance between 2 points is a straight line! I took a second look at the way I connected the cable to the starter, and went behind the back seat and I cannot see how I could get more than 6" by being more efficient with the cable, but if you did it with 13' then you did it. Is your battery on the side or in the spare tire well? Personally, if I had to do it over again, I would buy 16' or 17' just to be safe....
RE: Battery Box Relocation - Captain America - 04-21-2011
I went through the firewall where the AC lines would normally be, up the back of the seat under the window deck and the batt is where the spare would be. Maybe I used 15'? IDK haha I followed FI's thread...