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W123love’s 82 TDT - Printable Version

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W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 11-13-2011

Just finished up installing a new Walbro pump.

Walbro FRC-8 Marine/commercial external fuel pump

60 micron pre-filter

Mercedessource aluminum mounting bracket

I had all the right angle mounting tabs welded on, as well as the one that holds the pre-filter. I then ran a power cable through the interior exiting above the fuel tank and then to the pump. The cable piggybacks off of an ignition powered fuse, (I forgot the # on the fuse box). So it goes on when the key is turned, off when the car is off.

   



More pictures

   

   

   




RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - serverman777 - 11-13-2011

I like your chrome rim Smile

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 11-13-2011

Thanks! Its actually just polished aluminum.

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - serverman777 - 11-13-2011

Is that stock? Didn't MB make chrome rims? I think my 500 SEL has chrome rims but I might be mistaken.

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 11-13-2011

To the best of my knowledge they are, the Bundt style wheels can be chromed I guess. I know mine aren’t chromed, just polished nicely. It isn’t easy to get that shine though!

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - Purplecomputer - 11-13-2011

what does this fuel pump help to do in this situation?

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 11-14-2011

My mechanical lift pump wasn’t cutting it anymore. At about a 1/4 tank the engine would be starved of fuel, because the pump wasn’t sucking enough.

I have enjoyed the benefits of positive pressure on the LP in my sedan, so I figured it was time to do it too this car also.

In addition, I need an electric pump to run WVO later on.

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - Captain America - 11-14-2011

Yes My SD has Chrome Bundts....

Walbro pumps are the shit!

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - serverman777 - 11-14-2011

Did you have to sent them off to get polished? Or did you do them your self?

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 11-14-2011

No, when I bought the wagon the wheels were already shiny. I polish them regularly with Flitz polish. The best polish in my opinion. It isn’t cheap, but it does wonders.

Here is the wagon with its wheels

   

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - sassparilla_kid - 11-14-2011

I spent probably 10 hours trying to clean my wheels and lightly sand them with super fine paper and then polish them, needless to say it was a royal PITA so I ended up going to home depot and buying a can of primer and a can of metallic paint and painted them, and they turned out surprisingly well

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - serverman777 - 11-14-2011

I was told by a local Mercedes shop when buying my 500 SEL off them that I could get a set of chrome rims re-chromed for just like 150 bucks. That isn't too bad in my book. The issue is that is just for a set of 14in rims. I want a bigger!

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 11-15-2011

(11-14-2011, 07:08 PM)sassparilla_kid I spent probably 10 hours trying to clean my wheels and lightly sand them with super fine paper and then polish them, needless to say it was a royal PITA so I ended up going to home depot and buying a can of primer and a can of metallic paint and painted them, and they turned out surprisingly well

Yea I know what you mean. I plan on doing the wheels on my sedan, they are in dire need. I am going to buy the mercedessource kit, then reproduce it with the same paints to make it a better job. Im sure your job can only be improved and preserved with a lacquer finish. Multiple coats can only make it last longer.



RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - sassparilla_kid - 11-15-2011

I think next time I have the wheels off, they are going to get washed pretty thoroughly, then I plan on using some #0000 steel wool, re-washing, another coat or two of paint, then clear coat. The only reason I didn't clear coat them this time is because the paint has to be completely cured otherwise the clear turns it grey, and I didnt have that much time

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 12-31-2011

What up STD.

On my slow journey to building up my TDT, I decided it was time to get gauges to monitor the boost EGT and fuel pressure.
I’m all about the sleeper look, so mounting three gauges on the dash wasn’t really my style. So I concluded a digital screen would be my best bet. I found Zada Tech on Youtube one day, and really liked the look and size of the LCD screen that they had. Also Martin, the company owner had was very helpful in helping me build the system I wanted.

A week later I got the shipment from the UK. Everything was there, so I got to work.

[Image: 381416_10150433700716003_703531002_91599...3810_n.jpg]

I was inspired for the install by my Mom’s 06 CDI, which has a concealed 6 CD changer in the dash near the ashtray. After going through two prototypes, I decided a spring assisted cam was out of my range. Too much engineering was hurting my head, so I decided on another design.

This is the final product

[Image: 405764_10150450540716003_703531002_92337...0071_n.jpg]
[Image: 387636_10150450535936003_703531002_92336...3469_n.jpg]
[Image: 383575_10150450538706003_703531002_92337...8865_n.jpg]

You may recognize the antennas, they were modified and shortened from two donors spares I had. They are threaded into two brass tubes which hinge in a HDPE block that holds everything together.

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - Captain America - 01-02-2012

Thats sweet!

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - Greazzer - 01-02-2012

Now that is the Cat's Pajamas !!!! Awsome. If you don't mind disclosing, how much is that contraption? What and how many functions can it do ?
The install is STD also !!!

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 01-02-2012

I don’t usually like to drop numbers, but for the complete set up, which includes a

16x4 LCD Screen
LED Warning and Buzzer
Boost Sensor
EGT Sensor
Fuel Pressure

was about 280 GBP. The company is in the UK. From Zada Tech.

The three prototypes of mounting it I made....priceless.

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 01-19-2012

Alrighty so I found managed to get myself a 300GD flywheel. Wee

Now I need to balance it and get the mounds of rust off of it.

Question is what do you all suggest for removing all the rust? As in a chemical stripper. I remember seeing some great results in other posts but I don’t remember the products used.


Happy sailing,

Reece

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - sassparilla_kid - 01-20-2012

Citric acid?

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 01-20-2012

That rings a bell but where would I get something like that? It looked to be pretty gnarly stuff

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 01-20-2012

Eh feck it I dropped it off to get sandblasted this mornin

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - sassparilla_kid - 01-20-2012

Haha that's probably a lot easier than using acid

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - yankneck696 - 01-20-2012

I used acid.... Oh, different subject...
Seriously, walnut blasting is usually pretty safe. Soda blasting (baking soda) is safer & for the safest, dry ice blasting is untouchable... We used dry ice to blast 27"ID main bearings for a customer without any distortion.

Ed

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 01-21-2012

Thanks Ed ^.

Well last night my trans completely went out. I could only go about 3 miles an hour in forward. It would slip too much if i tried to accelerate at all. So I limped it to the shop and tore the tranny out.

[Image: 402182_10150493612146003_703531002_93959...6110_n.jpg]


Tomorrow my donor transmission goes in.

Sail fast

Reece

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - Greazzer - 01-22-2012

Hey,

Maybe too late, but as for rust removal, there is nothing like electroysis in my book. Incredibly cheap and effective, and it does not touch the base metal --Just a really nasty looking rusty foamy mess which is harmless. For small parts, Evaporust is great. A 5 gallon concentrate is about $70.00 per bucke and that is a lot of parts.

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 01-23-2012

Dropped it off to be sandblasted a couple days ago. I’ll post pictures of the results when I get it back. I’m going to get that evaporust for later use.

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 02-20-2012

More transmission work this time around. I was intimidated before by the thought of playing musical transmissions, but really it has been a great learning experience and eye opener.

To recap on my experience so far, I had a bad transmission in my car when I bought it. It was slipping very bad and had almost no reverse at all.
So I bought a donor transmission from a fellow forum member and set to put it in. It went in very easily despite the speedo cable not hooking up.

After having the new auto in and functioning much better than the original, I had the opportunity to swap in a 4 speed. So I jumped on it.

After a month of gathering parts and information, I started the transition about a week ago.

First was the clutch pedal, I did that easily in a couple of hours. Only thing that changed was the cruise control amplifier had to be removed. There is no place obvious for it to go, so I removed it. It was not functioning when I bought the car, so I may just remove it altogether.

That was all I did when I wasn’t on a lift. Not a whole bunch else to do.

Next was taking the AT and the transcooler lines out. I went to the PaP before to get two replacement oil pan allen head bolts. The ones that hold the AT cooler lines are very long and awkward to unscrew. So putting them back on was easier with the shorter ones. One thing I have not done yet is to get plugs for the AT cooler. I will post info on those when I get them.

[Image: 429595_10150556250831003_703531002_95709...0828_n.jpg]

AT out was easy enough. Next is the AT flywheel with the flexplate.

[Image: 407120_10150556250786003_703531002_95709...7763_n.jpg]

Now on to the beauty of the flywheel bolts. I bought the correct manual bolts from Mercedes. They are different than the AT bolts do not be mistaken. At about 8 bucks apiece, they aren’t cheap. But remember those twelve bolts connect the engine to the transmission, thus all that power to the road.

[Image: 432086_10150556251201003_703531002_95709...6883_n.jpg]

Like most, I had some difficulties with the removing the AT bolts. My technique for removing was too relaxed at first. I kept twisting the heads off because I was not being careful to be straight on the head. They are VERY small heads. Only about 1/8 of an inch high. So a slight twist the wrong way screws it all up. After f-ing up three, I corrected myself and had no problems.

Glad I brought the Dremel tool!

[Image: 403174_10150556251516003_703531002_95709...1627_n.jpg]

I used the Dremel to cut slots and then a cold chisel to smack em out. Once the heads and loads are off, they just finger twist out.

[Image: 422060_10150556251861003_703531002_95710...4600_n.jpg]

Finally free. Now time for forward progress on the manual trans.
The flywheel comparison. I had the flywheel and pressure plate balanced together. Also had the flywheel clutch surface re-surfaced to make it smoooooth.

[Image: 417034_10150556252181003_703531002_95710...4358_n.jpg]
[Image: 422608_10150556252546003_703531002_95710...1948_n.jpg]

Next I pressed in the pilot bearing. I was nervous if it would fit because of what I heard about the 84 85 models having a different size crank hole for the bearing. Mine is an 82 and it went in perfectly.

[Image: 426322_10150556252911003_703531002_95710...8661_n.jpg]

After pressing that in I put on the flywheel. There is a witness mark on the flywheel, but I could not find the one on the crank. I cleaned and searched but I got nothing. So I just mounted it and said a little prayer.
The torque that I used was 40 NM, and then a 90 degree turn tighter. Was pretty tight. Nice thing about the new bolts is they have a 1/4 inch head instead of 1/8. Went on with no probs.

[Image: 396238_10150556253261003_703531002_95710...0797_n.jpg]

I was lucky that a friend of mine had the proper clutch alignment tool. It work great, a must have tool for this kind of thing.

I will post more install pics and info later, but I have had a couple issues that I need help resolving.

I hooked up the master cylinder brake reservoir to the clutch M/C and about a minute later it started dripping out of the bottom, at the threads. Sweet I thought, might as well hook up the first line. Hooked it up, and it started dripping out of the end of the first hose about two minutes later. Sweet I thought again, so I hooked it up the other hose. And then to the slave with the nipple open. A minute later, it was dripping out. Is this supposed to happen? Its almost like it bleed itself.

Second issue could be related to the first. I have no clutch pressure, but the slave actuates when the pedal is depressed. The way I found out was I loosened the bolts that hold the slave to the bellhousing. When it is actuated, the slave would push back against the bolts. But when the car is on, and the clutch is pushed in, it does not actuate the pressure plate. Any ideas???

Note: I know I installed the throwout rod improperly, so I need to take the trans back off to correct it. I didn’t install the clip properly on the opposite side of the slave.

More tomorrow.
Sail Fast,

Reece


RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - bmwpowere36m3 - 02-20-2012

^ By throwout rod, you mean the clutch fork (clutch slave rod pushes on fork, fork pivots on pin, fork depresses throwout bearing...). Then yes, that needs to be clipped to the clutch fork pin.

Try properly bleeding the clutch after you fix the fork. Fill MC, pump clutch, depress and hold, loosen slave bleeder, tighten bleeder, release and pump clutch, and repeat till clutch firms up.

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - Simpler=Better - 02-20-2012

That flywheel is ENORMOUS. About how much does it weigh? I was going to hack up my auto flywheel for my conversion, now I'm thinking it would be too light

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 02-20-2012

(02-20-2012, 12:39 PM)Simpler=Better That flywheel is ENORMOUS. About how much does it weigh? I was going to hack up my auto flywheel for my conversion, now I'm thinking it would be too light

Its about 35 lbs. It is a 300GD flywheel.

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 02-21-2012

Update:

I didn’t mention that I broke a shifter linkage also. I was trying to adjust them and I managed to mess them up. After a trip to the Pap I pulled another set of linkages to replace them. Not a big set back.

Also I ordered the spacer that goes in between the slave cylinder and bellhousing. I wanted to eliminate any anomalies with my clutch issue. I think it is about 2 mm and required to test proper function of the slave.

On Wednesday I get to go back to the shop to correct my mistakes. I will put up more pictures then.

Sail fast,

Reece



RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 02-23-2012

Welp Wednesday was kind of a bust. I managed to fix my linkage problems and get the routing correct. I also dropped the trans one more time (getting really good at this now) and fixed my clutch fork. I’ll put pictures up later showing what I was talking about.

Though there was not any success with the clutch. I bleed and bleed, reverse bleed, pressure bleed and go through a whole reservoir of fluid.
I’m just going to install a new clutch master and slave. Probably should have done that in the first place.

Anywho parts are on order and I hope to install them by this sunday.

Sail fast,

Reece

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - yankneck696 - 02-23-2012

Try a 2X4 between the seat & clutch pedal for full depression overnight. It works on non bleedable clutch setups....

Ed

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 02-23-2012

Thanks Ed. I’ll try that tomorrow and let it sit till I get my parts.

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 02-27-2012

Welp I got the proper slave today. After getting over buying parts out of state, I went to a local import parts dealer. Paid a premium price, but I got it the same day and I was able to see the slave before I ordered it.

Here is the spacer I got from Mercedes. Only 2 bucks [Image: 418410_10150571558851003_703531002_96191...0627_n.jpg]

Installed in front of slave. Only about 2mm, but its how it came from the factory, with the spacer.
[Image: 419674_10150571559191003_703531002_96191...9511_n.jpg]

Just another view
[Image: 422452_10150571559641003_703531002_96191...0713_n.jpg]

After installing the old clutch slave, I put in a new clutch master cylinder. After installing it, I felt a faint bit more pressure on the pedal. But it wasn’t enough to actuate the cylinder.

I then pulled off the slave cylinder to see if I could see/feel the pressure it was applying. But I pushed it and out popped the piston out of the slave. Whoops.

Lol so now I bought a new slave and I hope to put it in on wednesday.




RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 03-05-2012

Welp I forgot to post on my end results.

It works!

After finding the proper slave locally, I was able to achieve clutch pressure with the help of a little vacuum bleeding.

The shifting is great, no problems to report so far. I just got the proper speedo cable in the mail, so I’ll hopefully find time to get that in soon. Also got a sweet leather shift boot coming in from the UK that i’m looking forward to install.

One thing that is frustrating though is I have to push the clutch ALL the way to the floor to shift. I mean ALL the way. I have to crush the floor mat to get it in all the way. Is there a way to adjust the clutch to make life a little easier?


RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - Hercules - 03-06-2012

Check Clutch pedal free play,Be sure no air in hydrolic system. Have made a longer rod,Slave to clutch fork, By the way the spacer behind the slave cylinder is there to check clutch disk wear,note on push rod to clutch fork,the step on the rod,special tool inserted at opening in spacer,references diameter of rod. How far tool can be inserted shows if clutch disc is to worn.
Good luck.
Thought of one more adj.,If pedals can be adjusted higher and master cyl. rod lengthened, can get more travel on master.


RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 05-24-2012

Just an update on current progress. Right now waiting on a new LCD screen for my display. Apparently the one I had wasn’t up to the challenge. Managed to buy Rudolf’s Jet-coated non-EGR exhaust, but ended up finding a my own set in the yard. So I cleaned them up and had them ceramic coated locally.

Here is the result.

[Image: 534209_10150826200796003_437730054_n.jpg]

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - sassparilla_kid - 05-24-2012

That is one shiny intake! Cool

I just put a set of these on last weekend, definitely noticed a little more low-end grunt

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 05-25-2012

(05-24-2012, 05:29 PM)sassparilla_kid That is one shiny intake! Cool

I just put a set of these on last weekend, definitely noticed a little more low-end grunt

Thats good to hear. Do you remember the torque specs that you put the manifolds on with? I can’t seem to find them in any of my FSM’s.

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - sassparilla_kid - 05-26-2012

I couldn't find any either, so I just tightened them until I thought they wouldn't fall off, and then went another quarter turn lol. Probably not the best method, but the new gasket was pretty thick so I'm sure it didn't hurt anything
Maybe try using the turbo to manifold torque specs, I know they are listed in the Haynes manual

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - Kozuka - 05-27-2012

In my experience they should be between 15-25ft lb. No intake manifolds on any engine I've taken apart have required more then that.

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 06-06-2012

I got the manifolds on. Honestly can’t tell much of a difference really in the butt dyno. But they sure do look pretty! Also replaced all the speakers with Kenwood Excelon stuff. Also transferred over my two Kenwood 10” subs and 1800 watt amp over to the wagon. Man there there is huge difference between bass in the back of a sedan’s trunk and in the back of a wagon. I’ve never heard these subs hit like this before. Ow.

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 09-09-2012

I finished up the Fram 8038 filter about a week ago. I’ve been driving it sparingly because the elec. coolant pump was just dangling via its two hoses. Today I got my parts in so I was able to plump it properly so I could secure it.

As for the 8038, I love it. It really makes a difference in sound. I can hear the induction Big Grin. When I put my foot into it, the turbo has a realllly nice whine.

I ordered a 42 Draft Designs ultimate catch can to install hopefully in this next week. Right now I am just venting to the atmosphere and it is leaving oil spots....no bueno for nice driveways.

I will probably have to have a custom bracket made for the separator.

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - Captain America - 09-11-2012

Nice man. Those catch cans are like artwork!

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 09-12-2012

So stoked. I got the fully powdercoated one. I wish you were closer to me...I am going to have a custom bracket made to mount it to the passenger wheel well.

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 03-11-2013

Been awhile since the last post on this thread. Recently moved to Texas for school, bought another car, and now I finally have a garage to work in.

[Image: IMG_0428.jpg]

Went back to SoCal over winter break and picked up my veggie oil set up. While I was out there I was able to get help to make a receiver hitch for my euro bumper pull hitch.

[Image: IMG_0421.jpg]

Took a harbo freight receiver tube and welded it up with support so it could bolt to the frame of the hitch support.

[Image: IMG_0528.JPG]

It works really well. I got a trailer to make up for a lack of a truck here in TX. With out a truck it is hard to get 4x8 sheets to the house. I still need to convert my wiring over to a truck plug from a 4 pin standard. I already have power running to the Walbro pump near the tank so it won’t be hard to wire up.

[Image: IMG_0652.JPG]

I went ahead and bought a 42 Draft Designs oil/air separator. Totally slick, has mounting brackets included and a cool dipstick. Unfortunately though it hasn’t been recovering very much oil. I don’t have the air vent routed back to the air filter because I wanted to see if the separator was doing a decent job first. Well, results are in and there is still a cloud coming from the separator. The filter doesn’t seem to be doing much at all at this point. Thoughts? Maybe there is just too much oil venting.

[Image: IMG_0627.JPG]

These are the filtering baffles.

[Image: IMG_0626.JPG]

I stuffed copper and stainless steel wool in the can to hopefully see an improvement. Not much of a difference so far.

[Image: IMG_0656.JPG]

This is the fram 8038 with the SLS system making its life cramped. I like it, more woosh from turbo.

[Image: IMG_0438.JPG]

Finally the new around town car. 1966 200D Heckflosse with 4 speed on the column and a bench seat in the front Smile. Hellooo date car.
I saw it nearby and negotiated a price. Runs just fine, has some typical rust issues under the front bench seat.

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - willbhere4u - 03-12-2013

I had one just like that except bucket seats and a floor shift
Do you still have that extra om617 non EGR exhaust manifold?

RE: W123love’s 82 TDT - w123love - 03-12-2013

(03-12-2013, 10:33 AM)willbhere4u
Do you still have that extra om617 non EGR exhaust manifold?

No sorry I sold it a while back. But there is one on eBay right now. Check the eBay alert thread.