Quote:I reused my old flywheel bolts not knowing they were stretch bolts.

Went back up to my shop today and seperated the tranny. Glad I didn't put it back in allready.

(06-24-2009, 05:53 PM)85-300Dt Thx folks!

I once swapped an 85 motor into a 79 TD. The 85 motor had the crank sensor and stuff and had the connector on the IP. I just left the wires all disconnected and bundled them up. The car ran fine, very strong actually. Maybe it was the gear ratio's, that car was fast.
I'll be swapping an 85 motor into my 82TD. I do not plan on changing pumps.

Sounds pretty straightforward if I don't find an 85 engine, though would add some time to a straight across 85 to 85 swap. What would be a reasonable time for a shop to do the xtra work?

As I understand (motor I'm looking at is an 83) the IP, egr/pps, tach/pickup, Flex/H, Therm/H, xtra temp sensor for head & IP will bolt over though I'm not clear on the xtra temp sensor for the head & IP or the hookup? Is it like a T conector in the head that already has a temp/sensor & that connects to the IP?

Also in terms of Flex/H (Flexplate housing), is that another word for bellhousing? I think the problem here is the 85 tranny is different from the earlier ones.

In addition, the IP will have to be setup as I've I've read up on here & there including here.

Also found these threads informative
Tork converter questions ?
too much bad luck, my 300 diesel is locked up
including the part where new bolts have to be used for the flywheel.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w116-s-se-sel-sd-class/1311223-too-much-bad-luck-my-300-a-3.html#post2617486

Quote:I reused my old flywheel bolts not knowing they were stretch bolts.

Went back up to my shop today and seperated the tranny. Glad I didn't put it back in allready.

Informing myself as much as possible to understand & talk to the person/folks who end up doing the job. Any help with gaskets & bits required for the swap'd be much appreciated; I am sifting thru the FSM meantime..

I'll assume there's no computer of crank sensor on an 85 engine.

EDIT - Another engine I'm looking at & trying to figure out is supposed to be for an 85 car. Problem is we looked at the info on the drivers side door area data plate & the car was made I believe in the 9th month/84 but then mine shows the 12th month/84 & is an 85 model. Vin for the car/engine I'm looking at is WDBAB33C9FA199928 but when I run it on the Russian site.. it shows -> Approx. year not defined.

Anyway to be sure the engine/car I'm looking at is an 85 other than looking at the 2 engines side by side?

Quote:Yeah the 85 has the EGR computer,

(07-04-2009, 05:05 PM)85-300Dt Hmmm..
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=2237756&postcount=7

Quote:Yeah the 85 has the EGR computer,

Any info on the need for keeping my 85 Flexplate Housing (if using an older engine) & why I have to stick with the original 85 IP? Think I read that you can use an 85 on a 84 you just blank off the extra stuff on the 85 then.

Thought the F/H was perhaps cos of a diff in the trannies but pretty sure the trannies are the same for the diff year turbo engines.

marinos90209;2265489 just bought a beautiful 1985 300 dt with only 75.000 miles on it,and it is federal non california,i heard that the 1985 model have a different turbo on it,and the tranny as well,if anyone knows about it please let me know

Quote:Turbo is the same, transmission is a 722.416, basically the same as earlier models. Torque converter has a slightly higher stall speed. Final drive ratio is taller, lower engine rpm's for the same highway speed.

Tachometer circuit runs through the EGR module which, with the over-voltage protection relay (OVP), is cunningly hidden behind the front passenger's right-hand kick panel where no one will ever think to look..

The air conditioning compressor's clutch engages through a "Klima" (brand name) relay that is unique to the model-year. Klima looks at a number of things and then decides whether it will allow the compressor to run. It is a common failure item, about $85, can be bypassed but you lose some safety things that Klima does for you..

Quote:Originally Posted by jt20
the other question arises:

How can you use any trans from '85 on an earlier model if the '85 has the vacuum amplifier as its vacuum signal source source?
==============================================

The transmissions are basically the same (with a little modulator adjustment differences). The way the vacuum is presented to the modulator is different.

The early turbo models had a direct vacuum source from the main line to the modulator with a Vacuum Control Valve in the middle to leak down the pressure. A high vacuum of 10-15 inches leaks down to zero at a full throttle position. So a modulator WITH vacuum softens the shifts at a low throttle response and a modulator with NO or LITTLE vacuum firms up the shifts when more throttle is given. This is predicated only on throttle position and no other variables.

On the 1984 California version, MB started tweaking for better shifting with the introduction of a simple form of the vacuum transducer. Then they took it a step further on '85 models with a system that takes into account of boost pressure with the use of the vacuum transducer. The system now starts off at 12-17 inches to the modulator and only leaks down five inches when full throttle travel is given. When the boost goes up, the boost gets into the vacuum system and lowers the vacuum in the lines to zero. This achieved a more precision vacuum allocation on the different power curve then just relying only on throttle position. It provided smoother shifting no matter how much power your putting out, yet keeping the transmission the same as the previous years.

(07-05-2009, 02:41 AM)DeliveryValve If you are wanting to keep your A/C working properly and have a tach, you'll need to swap over the intermediate plate (Flexplate Housing/Bellhousing plate) and keep the original RPM sensor.

You don't have to swap over the IP if you don't care for the emissions equipment. Just run it as it is. If you do care for working properly emission equipment, then you'll need to swap it over.

(07-05-2009, 02:41 AM)DeliveryValve If you are wanting to keep your A/C working properly and have a tach, you'll need to swap over the intermediate plate (Flexplate Housing/Bellhousing plate) and keep the original RPM sensor.