Used 85 turbo engine swap scenarios..
Used 85 turbo engine swap scenarios..
My engine has to come out (engine knock.. bearing(s), no doubt about it) & looking around for a used one for a swap.
Folks are telling me that the 85 turbo engine is diff from the rest (or earlier ones) & sorta a 1 year deal thing that involves the start of use of computers, so earlier turbo engines wont work, or at the very least, are not a straight swap. One guy said there are workarounds, but dunno, or not many folks so far.. around here know much about it.
Do I need to find an 85 turbo engine, or can other years be considered & what might be involved to make them work?
The one fella that seemed to know the most about it mentioned a crankshaft sensor mod..
85-300Dt
tia
G'day folks,
My engine has to come out (engine knock.. bearing(s), no doubt about it) & looking around for a used one for a swap.
Folks are telling me that the 85 turbo engine is diff from the rest (or earlier ones) & sorta a 1 year deal thing that involves the start of use of computers, so earlier turbo engines wont work, or at the very least, are not a straight swap. One guy said there are workarounds, but dunno, or not many folks so far.. around here know much about it.
Do I need to find an 85 turbo engine, or can other years be considered & what might be involved to make them work?
The one fella that seemed to know the most about it mentioned a crankshaft sensor mod..
85-300Dt
tia
ForcedInduction
06-17-2009, 01:45 PM
#3
The engine itself is exactly the same. Since only your block is bad it will be easy to swap all the parts over to the new engine; Flywheel housing, thermostat housing, an extra temperature sensor in the head and the injection pump. The turbo does not need to be changed.
Sounds pretty straightforward if I don't find an 85 engine, though would add some time to a straight across 85 to 85 swap. What would be a reasonable time for a shop to do the xtra work?
As I understand (motor I'm looking at is an 83) the IP, egr/pps, tach/pickup, Flex/H, Therm/H, xtra temp sensor for head & IP will bolt over though I'm not clear on the xtra temp sensor for the head & IP or the hookup? Is it like a T conector in the head that already has a temp/sensor & that connects to the IP?
Also in terms of Flex/H (Flexplate housing), is that another word for bellhousing? I think the problem here is the 85 tranny is different from the earlier ones.
In addition, the IP will have to be setup as I've I've read up on here & there including here.
Also found these threads informative
Tork converter questions ?
too much bad luck, my 300 diesel is locked up
including the part where new bolts have to be used for the flywheel.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w116-s-s...ost2617486
Quote:I reused my old flywheel bolts not knowing they were stretch bolts.
Went back up to my shop today and seperated the tranny. Glad I didn't put it back in allready.
Informing myself as much as possible to understand & talk to the person/folks who end up doing the job. Any help with gaskets & bits required for the swap'd be much appreciated; I am sifting thru the FSM meantime..
I'll assume there's no computer of crank sensor on an 85 engine.
EDIT - Another engine I'm looking at & trying to figure out is supposed to be for an 85 car. Problem is we looked at the info on the drivers side door area data plate & the car was made I believe in the 9th month/84 but then mine shows the 12th month/84 & is an 85 model. Vin for the car/engine I'm looking at is WDBAB33C9FA199928 but when I run it on the Russian site.. it shows -> Approx. year not defined.
Anyway to be sure the engine/car I'm looking at is an 85 other than looking at the 2 engines side by side?
Thx folks!
Sounds pretty straightforward if I don't find an 85 engine, though would add some time to a straight across 85 to 85 swap. What would be a reasonable time for a shop to do the xtra work?
As I understand (motor I'm looking at is an 83) the IP, egr/pps, tach/pickup, Flex/H, Therm/H, xtra temp sensor for head & IP will bolt over though I'm not clear on the xtra temp sensor for the head & IP or the hookup? Is it like a T conector in the head that already has a temp/sensor & that connects to the IP?
Also in terms of Flex/H (Flexplate housing), is that another word for bellhousing? I think the problem here is the 85 tranny is different from the earlier ones.
In addition, the IP will have to be setup as I've I've read up on here & there including here.
Also found these threads informative
Tork converter questions ?
too much bad luck, my 300 diesel is locked up
including the part where new bolts have to be used for the flywheel.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w116-s-s...ost2617486
Quote:I reused my old flywheel bolts not knowing they were stretch bolts.
Went back up to my shop today and seperated the tranny. Glad I didn't put it back in allready.
Informing myself as much as possible to understand & talk to the person/folks who end up doing the job. Any help with gaskets & bits required for the swap'd be much appreciated; I am sifting thru the FSM meantime..
I'll assume there's no computer of crank sensor on an 85 engine.
EDIT - Another engine I'm looking at & trying to figure out is supposed to be for an 85 car. Problem is we looked at the info on the drivers side door area data plate & the car was made I believe in the 9th month/84 but then mine shows the 12th month/84 & is an 85 model. Vin for the car/engine I'm looking at is WDBAB33C9FA199928 but when I run it on the Russian site.. it shows -> Approx. year not defined.
Anyway to be sure the engine/car I'm looking at is an 85 other than looking at the 2 engines side by side?
Pickup plan includes lifting the motor with the help of a tree.. & a pickup truck is ideal then, although we also talked about a small trailer on site, a few folks & using a minivan..
What's the story with the IP (that I have to use mine)? Would an IP from a 85-300SD work? Are the IP's for 82-4 for the 300D models interchangeable?
I think I read that for 85, there are a few more connections to be made that perhaps were not needed or used before that year?
Forget who told me but someone said the 85-300D is quite diff from earlier years; dunno in what way?
First thing I'll look at is fixing(lol) the egr.
Been looking alot at other 300Ds & 300SDs in the area & could easily see myself getting another. Lotsa rusty hulks 'round these parts with good engines & one fella is selling a non turbo 300D with a good engine, that also came with a spare engine with around 60k miles & wanted 500 bucks for the works. If anyone is interested in the one engine that is out, PM me & I'll pass along the contact info but the engine is in the Toronto area.
Pretty sure I'm gonna go with an 83 engine with 120k miles. Looking forward to meet the 72 year ol' man who pulled it out. He has a 240 that overheated & his plans were to swap the turbo engine in until he realized that it wasn't so simple. Story is the PO (of the 83 turbo car) had a starter go out & died a wk later.
Pickup plan includes lifting the motor with the help of a tree.. & a pickup truck is ideal then, although we also talked about a small trailer on site, a few folks & using a minivan..
What's the story with the IP (that I have to use mine)? Would an IP from a 85-300SD work? Are the IP's for 82-4 for the 300D models interchangeable?
I think I read that for 85, there are a few more connections to be made that perhaps were not needed or used before that year?
Forget who told me but someone said the 85-300D is quite diff from earlier years; dunno in what way?
First thing I'll look at is fixing(lol) the egr.
Been looking alot at other 300Ds & 300SDs in the area & could easily see myself getting another. Lotsa rusty hulks 'round these parts with good engines & one fella is selling a non turbo 300D with a good engine, that also came with a spare engine with around 60k miles & wanted 500 bucks for the works. If anyone is interested in the one engine that is out, PM me & I'll pass along the contact info but the engine is in the Toronto area.
Appearance wise, looked like a big piece of rusted metal, wouldn't trust anything that's attached to the front & didn't look like any of it would come off easy. Opened up the oil filler hole & the lobes I could see had rust. Owner was surprised & suggested we take off the cover to examine further & I certainly wanted to see in there..
I removed the 4 bolts & lifted off the cover. The rest of the cam looked pristine but.. there was a ton of dirt, debris there now mostly from the exhaust side that hadn't been cleaned up, or noticed prior to lifting off the cover.
Then at some point, the owner got in the back of the very small short trailer & it teeter tottered backwards; the engine shifted over & started to slide directly at him. If I wasn't right there & responded, he would have been pinned.
We then fixed it all back as it was, all this time with the crap at the top of the cyl head. He then plugged the ends with kleenex & tried to brush away the sand/dirt/leaves but... a vac prob woulda been a better idea.. though the engine had already shifted around at that point.
Not really familiar with the engine but the valves being right there.. don't see how it could be properly cleaned out now.. & wouldn't think is a candidate to install as is.
Lotsa potential but i'm not setup for disassembly right now. Also, the one year of no running turned into 1 & a half years when it come up again & then became an unknown period prior to that. Said the engine he put in his 240 hadn't run for about 3 years but ran fine now. I've also heard/read of a lot worse.
Oh yea.. crank seemed to spin fine via the power steering pump bolt.
Going rate for good to go engines 'round here is about a G note. Already saw another one (85) that started & hummed, but has 220k miles. No smoke but no compression #'s either.
Went out with high hopes to see the 500 dollar 120k mile 83 engine. It was sitting in the middle of a small trailer (tongue down) & covered with a tarp. It had just been removed very recently from the car. Conversation was as I recall that it hadn't been run for about a year..
Appearance wise, looked like a big piece of rusted metal, wouldn't trust anything that's attached to the front & didn't look like any of it would come off easy. Opened up the oil filler hole & the lobes I could see had rust. Owner was surprised & suggested we take off the cover to examine further & I certainly wanted to see in there..
I removed the 4 bolts & lifted off the cover. The rest of the cam looked pristine but.. there was a ton of dirt, debris there now mostly from the exhaust side that hadn't been cleaned up, or noticed prior to lifting off the cover.
Then at some point, the owner got in the back of the very small short trailer & it teeter tottered backwards; the engine shifted over & started to slide directly at him. If I wasn't right there & responded, he would have been pinned.
We then fixed it all back as it was, all this time with the crap at the top of the cyl head. He then plugged the ends with kleenex & tried to brush away the sand/dirt/leaves but... a vac prob woulda been a better idea.. though the engine had already shifted around at that point.
Not really familiar with the engine but the valves being right there.. don't see how it could be properly cleaned out now.. & wouldn't think is a candidate to install as is.
Lotsa potential but i'm not setup for disassembly right now. Also, the one year of no running turned into 1 & a half years when it come up again & then became an unknown period prior to that. Said the engine he put in his 240 hadn't run for about 3 years but ran fine now. I've also heard/read of a lot worse.
Oh yea.. crank seemed to spin fine via the power steering pump bolt.
Going rate for good to go engines 'round here is about a G note. Already saw another one (85) that started & hummed, but has 220k miles. No smoke but no compression #'s either.
I once got a 1966 200d running after sitting 20 years on the diesel in the tank mixed 50/50 with fresh diesel!!!! it had no compression or oil pressure witch is why it was abandon in a field. I drove it as is for a year with 5psi oil pressure at idle and 15ish reved up with no problems just had to keep it full of oil. It was hard to start!!! took a few minuets with some starting fluid glow plugs couldn't get it to kick off! I guess it didn't have enough compression till it was running?
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
07-02-2009, 09:58 PM #10as for cleaning I use brake kleen, compressed air and a vacuum not all at the same time tho
I once got a 1966 200d running after sitting 20 years on the diesel in the tank mixed 50/50 with fresh diesel!!!! it had no compression or oil pressure witch is why it was abandon in a field. I drove it as is for a year with 5psi oil pressure at idle and 15ish reved up with no problems just had to keep it full of oil. It was hard to start!!! took a few minuets with some starting fluid glow plugs couldn't get it to kick off! I guess it didn't have enough compression till it was running?
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
(06-24-2009, 05:53 PM)85-300Dt Thx folks!
I once swapped an 85 motor into a 79 TD. The 85 motor had the crank sensor and stuff and had the connector on the IP. I just left the wires all disconnected and bundled them up. The car ran fine, very strong actually. Maybe it was the gear ratio's, that car was fast.
I'll be swapping an 85 motor into my 82TD. I do not plan on changing pumps.
Sounds pretty straightforward if I don't find an 85 engine, though would add some time to a straight across 85 to 85 swap. What would be a reasonable time for a shop to do the xtra work?
As I understand (motor I'm looking at is an 83) the IP, egr/pps, tach/pickup, Flex/H, Therm/H, xtra temp sensor for head & IP will bolt over though I'm not clear on the xtra temp sensor for the head & IP or the hookup? Is it like a T conector in the head that already has a temp/sensor & that connects to the IP?
Also in terms of Flex/H (Flexplate housing), is that another word for bellhousing? I think the problem here is the 85 tranny is different from the earlier ones.
In addition, the IP will have to be setup as I've I've read up on here & there including here.
Also found these threads informative
Tork converter questions ?
too much bad luck, my 300 diesel is locked up
including the part where new bolts have to be used for the flywheel.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w116-s-s...ost2617486
Quote:I reused my old flywheel bolts not knowing they were stretch bolts.
Went back up to my shop today and seperated the tranny. Glad I didn't put it back in allready.
Informing myself as much as possible to understand & talk to the person/folks who end up doing the job. Any help with gaskets & bits required for the swap'd be much appreciated; I am sifting thru the FSM meantime..
I'll assume there's no computer of crank sensor on an 85 engine.
EDIT - Another engine I'm looking at & trying to figure out is supposed to be for an 85 car. Problem is we looked at the info on the drivers side door area data plate & the car was made I believe in the 9th month/84 but then mine shows the 12th month/84 & is an 85 model. Vin for the car/engine I'm looking at is WDBAB33C9FA199928 but when I run it on the Russian site.. it shows -> Approx. year not defined.
Anyway to be sure the engine/car I'm looking at is an 85 other than looking at the 2 engines side by side?
GileadGarage
07-03-2009, 12:19 AM #12(06-24-2009, 05:53 PM)85-300Dt Thx folks!
I once swapped an 85 motor into a 79 TD. The 85 motor had the crank sensor and stuff and had the connector on the IP. I just left the wires all disconnected and bundled them up. The car ran fine, very strong actually. Maybe it was the gear ratio's, that car was fast.
I'll be swapping an 85 motor into my 82TD. I do not plan on changing pumps.
Sounds pretty straightforward if I don't find an 85 engine, though would add some time to a straight across 85 to 85 swap. What would be a reasonable time for a shop to do the xtra work?
As I understand (motor I'm looking at is an 83) the IP, egr/pps, tach/pickup, Flex/H, Therm/H, xtra temp sensor for head & IP will bolt over though I'm not clear on the xtra temp sensor for the head & IP or the hookup? Is it like a T conector in the head that already has a temp/sensor & that connects to the IP?
Also in terms of Flex/H (Flexplate housing), is that another word for bellhousing? I think the problem here is the 85 tranny is different from the earlier ones.
In addition, the IP will have to be setup as I've I've read up on here & there including here.
Also found these threads informative
Tork converter questions ?
too much bad luck, my 300 diesel is locked up
including the part where new bolts have to be used for the flywheel.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w116-s-s...ost2617486
Quote:I reused my old flywheel bolts not knowing they were stretch bolts.
Went back up to my shop today and seperated the tranny. Glad I didn't put it back in allready.
Informing myself as much as possible to understand & talk to the person/folks who end up doing the job. Any help with gaskets & bits required for the swap'd be much appreciated; I am sifting thru the FSM meantime..
I'll assume there's no computer of crank sensor on an 85 engine.
EDIT - Another engine I'm looking at & trying to figure out is supposed to be for an 85 car. Problem is we looked at the info on the drivers side door area data plate & the car was made I believe in the 9th month/84 but then mine shows the 12th month/84 & is an 85 model. Vin for the car/engine I'm looking at is WDBAB33C9FA199928 but when I run it on the Russian site.. it shows -> Approx. year not defined.
Anyway to be sure the engine/car I'm looking at is an 85 other than looking at the 2 engines side by side?
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/show...ostcount=7
Quote:Yeah the 85 has the EGR computer,
Any info on the need for keeping my 85 Flexplate Housing (if using an older engine) & why I have to stick with the original 85 IP? Think I read that you can use an 85 on a 84 you just blank off the extra stuff on the 85 then.
Thought the F/H was perhaps cos of a diff in the trannies but pretty sure the trannies are the same for the diff year turbo engines.
Hmmm..
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/show...ostcount=7
Quote:Yeah the 85 has the EGR computer,
Any info on the need for keeping my 85 Flexplate Housing (if using an older engine) & why I have to stick with the original 85 IP? Think I read that you can use an 85 on a 84 you just blank off the extra stuff on the 85 then.
Thought the F/H was perhaps cos of a diff in the trannies but pretty sure the trannies are the same for the diff year turbo engines.
(07-04-2009, 05:05 PM)85-300Dt Hmmm..
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/show...ostcount=7
Quote:Yeah the 85 has the EGR computer,
Any info on the need for keeping my 85 Flexplate Housing (if using an older engine) & why I have to stick with the original 85 IP? Think I read that you can use an 85 on a 84 you just blank off the extra stuff on the 85 then.
Thought the F/H was perhaps cos of a diff in the trannies but pretty sure the trannies are the same for the diff year turbo engines.
If you are wanting to keep your A/C working properly and have a tach, you'll need to swap over the intermediate plate (Flexplate Housing/Bellhousing plate) and keep the original RPM sensor.
You don't have to swap over the IP if you don't care for the emissions equipment. Just run it as it is. If you do care for working properly emission equipment, then you'll need to swap it over.
The transmission bolt pattern are the same for the W123 for all years. Only '85 had the two different transmissions for the 617 turbo motors.
722.315 for the Federal and 722.416 for the Cali version.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
07-05-2009, 02:41 AM #14(07-04-2009, 05:05 PM)85-300Dt Hmmm..
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/show...ostcount=7
Quote:Yeah the 85 has the EGR computer,
Any info on the need for keeping my 85 Flexplate Housing (if using an older engine) & why I have to stick with the original 85 IP? Think I read that you can use an 85 on a 84 you just blank off the extra stuff on the 85 then.
Thought the F/H was perhaps cos of a diff in the trannies but pretty sure the trannies are the same for the diff year turbo engines.
If you are wanting to keep your A/C working properly and have a tach, you'll need to swap over the intermediate plate (Flexplate Housing/Bellhousing plate) and keep the original RPM sensor.
You don't have to swap over the IP if you don't care for the emissions equipment. Just run it as it is. If you do care for working properly emission equipment, then you'll need to swap it over.
The transmission bolt pattern are the same for the W123 for all years. Only '85 had the two different transmissions for the 617 turbo motors.
722.315 for the Federal and 722.416 for the Cali version.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
marinos90209;2265489 just bought a beautiful 1985 300 dt with only 75.000 miles on it,and it is federal non california,i heard that the 1985 model have a different turbo on it,and the tranny as well,if anyone knows about it please let me know
Quote:Turbo is the same, transmission is a 722.416, basically the same as earlier models. Torque converter has a slightly higher stall speed. Final drive ratio is taller, lower engine rpm's for the same highway speed.http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/show...ost2265493
Tachometer circuit runs through the EGR module which, with the over-voltage protection relay (OVP), is cunningly hidden behind the front passenger's right-hand kick panel where no one will ever think to look..
The air conditioning compressor's clutch engages through a "Klima" (brand name) relay that is unique to the model-year. Klima looks at a number of things and then decides whether it will allow the compressor to run. It is a common failure item, about $85, can be bypassed but you lose some safety things that Klima does for you..
Just adding info I stumbled on..
marinos90209;2265489 just bought a beautiful 1985 300 dt with only 75.000 miles on it,and it is federal non california,i heard that the 1985 model have a different turbo on it,and the tranny as well,if anyone knows about it please let me know
Quote:Turbo is the same, transmission is a 722.416, basically the same as earlier models. Torque converter has a slightly higher stall speed. Final drive ratio is taller, lower engine rpm's for the same highway speed.http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/show...ost2265493
Tachometer circuit runs through the EGR module which, with the over-voltage protection relay (OVP), is cunningly hidden behind the front passenger's right-hand kick panel where no one will ever think to look..
The air conditioning compressor's clutch engages through a "Klima" (brand name) relay that is unique to the model-year. Klima looks at a number of things and then decides whether it will allow the compressor to run. It is a common failure item, about $85, can be bypassed but you lose some safety things that Klima does for you..
Quote:Originally Posted by jt20
the other question arises:
How can you use any trans from '85 on an earlier model if the '85 has the vacuum amplifier as its vacuum signal source source?
==============================================
The transmissions are basically the same (with a little modulator adjustment differences). The way the vacuum is presented to the modulator is different.
The early turbo models had a direct vacuum source from the main line to the modulator with a Vacuum Control Valve in the middle to leak down the pressure. A high vacuum of 10-15 inches leaks down to zero at a full throttle position. So a modulator WITH vacuum softens the shifts at a low throttle response and a modulator with NO or LITTLE vacuum firms up the shifts when more throttle is given. This is predicated only on throttle position and no other variables.
On the 1984 California version, MB started tweaking for better shifting with the introduction of a simple form of the vacuum transducer. Then they took it a step further on '85 models with a system that takes into account of boost pressure with the use of the vacuum transducer. The system now starts off at 12-17 inches to the modulator and only leaks down five inches when full throttle travel is given. When the boost goes up, the boost gets into the vacuum system and lowers the vacuum in the lines to zero. This achieved a more precision vacuum allocation on the different power curve then just relying only on throttle position. It provided smoother shifting no matter how much power your putting out, yet keeping the transmission the same as the previous years.
Bit more..
Quote:Originally Posted by jt20
the other question arises:
How can you use any trans from '85 on an earlier model if the '85 has the vacuum amplifier as its vacuum signal source source?
==============================================
The transmissions are basically the same (with a little modulator adjustment differences). The way the vacuum is presented to the modulator is different.
The early turbo models had a direct vacuum source from the main line to the modulator with a Vacuum Control Valve in the middle to leak down the pressure. A high vacuum of 10-15 inches leaks down to zero at a full throttle position. So a modulator WITH vacuum softens the shifts at a low throttle response and a modulator with NO or LITTLE vacuum firms up the shifts when more throttle is given. This is predicated only on throttle position and no other variables.
On the 1984 California version, MB started tweaking for better shifting with the introduction of a simple form of the vacuum transducer. Then they took it a step further on '85 models with a system that takes into account of boost pressure with the use of the vacuum transducer. The system now starts off at 12-17 inches to the modulator and only leaks down five inches when full throttle travel is given. When the boost goes up, the boost gets into the vacuum system and lowers the vacuum in the lines to zero. This achieved a more precision vacuum allocation on the different power curve then just relying only on throttle position. It provided smoother shifting no matter how much power your putting out, yet keeping the transmission the same as the previous years.
(07-05-2009, 02:41 AM)DeliveryValve If you are wanting to keep your A/C working properly and have a tach, you'll need to swap over the intermediate plate (Flexplate Housing/Bellhousing plate) and keep the original RPM sensor.
You don't have to swap over the IP if you don't care for the emissions equipment. Just run it as it is. If you do care for working properly emission equipment, then you'll need to swap it over.
Found an (83) engine, not clear on what exactly is involved in swapping over the "intermediate plate"?
Edit - main thing I'm wondering is if I have to mess with the flywheel bolts?
(07-05-2009, 02:41 AM)DeliveryValve If you are wanting to keep your A/C working properly and have a tach, you'll need to swap over the intermediate plate (Flexplate Housing/Bellhousing plate) and keep the original RPM sensor.
You don't have to swap over the IP if you don't care for the emissions equipment. Just run it as it is. If you do care for working properly emission equipment, then you'll need to swap it over.
Found an (83) engine, not clear on what exactly is involved in swapping over the "intermediate plate"?
Edit - main thing I'm wondering is if I have to mess with the flywheel bolts?
(07-05-2009, 02:41 AM)DeliveryValve If you are wanting to keep your A/C working properly and have a tach, you'll need to swap over the intermediate plate (Flexplate Housing/Bellhousing plate) and keep the original RPM sensor.What's the story with the AC working "properly"? Sounds like it could still work? Maybe just something like it wouldn't cut out at WOT.
![[Image: 2wnbx3o.jpg]](http://i29.tinypic.com/2wnbx3o.jpg)
I think the intermediate plate is on the right so that and the 85 torque converter (same bolts?) would swap over to the 83 engine for it all to work as setup in 85, the 83 flywheel could stay as is, I'm thinking there could be a balance scenario if it (the flywheel) doesn't stay the same.
(07-05-2009, 02:41 AM)DeliveryValve If you are wanting to keep your A/C working properly and have a tach, you'll need to swap over the intermediate plate (Flexplate Housing/Bellhousing plate) and keep the original RPM sensor.What's the story with the AC working "properly"? Sounds like it could still work? Maybe just something like it wouldn't cut out at WOT.
I think the intermediate plate is on the right so that and the 85 torque converter (same bolts?) would swap over to the 83 engine for it all to work as setup in 85, the 83 flywheel could stay as is, I'm thinking there could be a balance scenario if it (the flywheel) doesn't stay the same.
Not sure why the AC needs the tach... they are connected to the same system (a little computer box) though.
Nope, that's the flexplate on the right. Intermediate plate is the big flat flange on the engine itself behind the flywheel, that the transmission bolts to.
Not sure why the AC needs the tach... they are connected to the same system (a little computer box) though.
ForcedInduction
07-25-2010, 06:41 PM
#21
The flex plate is on the right, it bolts to the crankshaft and the transmission bolts to it. The flywheel is on the left. Its only jobs are to give the starter something to turn, provide additional mass over the torque converter and (on 84+ models) provide an RPM signal source.
flexplate's on the right, on another note, read a thread recently and forget what the final verdict was but isn't the flywheel balanced to the crank? ..or you can just swap 'emEnded up reading quite a bit on the "adding a tach " thread, understand my tach is a 3 pin type and is run by the egr computer (rather than by an amp), the pickup sensor is at the bellhousing/flywheel rather than the front balancer pulley area (like it was done in earlier years), don't imagine I could get the signal from there instead of at the bellhousing?
Does the emission stuff have to be working meaning I have to use the original 85 IP for the tach to work seeing as its run via the egr computer?
Hmmm ..yup flexplate's on the right, on another note, read a thread recently and forget what the final verdict was but isn't the flywheel balanced to the crank? ..or you can just swap 'em
Ended up reading quite a bit on the "adding a tach " thread, understand my tach is a 3 pin type and is run by the egr computer (rather than by an amp), the pickup sensor is at the bellhousing/flywheel rather than the front balancer pulley area (like it was done in earlier years), don't imagine I could get the signal from there instead of at the bellhousing?
Does the emission stuff have to be working meaning I have to use the original 85 IP for the tach to work seeing as its run via the egr computer?
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