Alternative Transmission Fluid
Alternative Transmission Fluid
I did some research and found that many of the guys running autos and drag race use something called "tractor fluid". Upon further research I found that specifically use John Deere "Hy-Gard" transmission and hydraulic fluid for heavy equipment and tractors. I use Sweepco 714 in my truck, which is basically the same type of fluid, but supposedly the best out there. Sweepco is used in throphy truck auto transmissions and they sometimes run up to 400*F and the oil does not break down. Sweepco is supposed to have an additional additive that the Hy-Gard does not, but the Hy-Gard is only $14.00+ / gallon vs. the Sweepco at $32.00 / gallon.
I purchased 2-1/2 gallons of Hy-Gard on Friday from a John Deere dealer in a nearby town (home of West Coast Choppers). I also purchased 2 gallons of Wal-mart brand Dex III to aid in flushing the trans. Other supplies needed were a 5 gallon bucket and 3/4" I.D. clear vinyl hose.
I removed the trans cooler line from the passenger side of the radiator and installed the vinyl hose on the rubber hose coming from the radiator and ran the vinyl hose into the 5 gallon bucket. I started the car and as the fluid was coming out of the hose and into the bucket I was adding the fresh Dex III into the dipstick tube. I poured 8 qts. into the trans and ran the motor with my assistant putting the trans through the gears and leaving it in drive until the fluid onl started to trickle out of the vinyl hose. At this point I stopped the engine and I drained the balance of the fluid from the pan and also drained the torque converter. I let it drain for about 45 minutes until it looked like it was only a few drops.
Most of the guys that are running the Hy-Gard use at least one quart of tranny fluid for coloring the base fluid and for some of the additvies, but mainly for color. I added 6 qts. to start and took it for a test drive, really quick to see if all was well. I also needed to adjust my my linkage since the motor was lowered and the linkage was off a bit.
I took it for a test drive and I CAN feel a difference, the shifting is a little firmer, yet not harsh. Those that have used it described it as "grippy". On hard accelleration, there is a slight flare between 2-3, but not as bad as before. When I am on the freeway it still slips a bit, but if I back off on the trottle a bit the speed catches up to the RPMs.
I will report more as I drive it some more and allow the fluid to do its' magic....The other thing I need to do is use a smaller orifice and see if that helps 2-3 shifting.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
09-11-2010, 03:02 PM #1As you know I have been having some trans issues since the S/C and the Über pump - mainly flaring and some high speed slippage. The high speed slippage occurs when I am cruising on the freeway and I floor it and the RPMs and boost rise, but the MPH stays the same.
I did some research and found that many of the guys running autos and drag race use something called "tractor fluid". Upon further research I found that specifically use John Deere "Hy-Gard" transmission and hydraulic fluid for heavy equipment and tractors. I use Sweepco 714 in my truck, which is basically the same type of fluid, but supposedly the best out there. Sweepco is used in throphy truck auto transmissions and they sometimes run up to 400*F and the oil does not break down. Sweepco is supposed to have an additional additive that the Hy-Gard does not, but the Hy-Gard is only $14.00+ / gallon vs. the Sweepco at $32.00 / gallon.
I purchased 2-1/2 gallons of Hy-Gard on Friday from a John Deere dealer in a nearby town (home of West Coast Choppers). I also purchased 2 gallons of Wal-mart brand Dex III to aid in flushing the trans. Other supplies needed were a 5 gallon bucket and 3/4" I.D. clear vinyl hose.
I removed the trans cooler line from the passenger side of the radiator and installed the vinyl hose on the rubber hose coming from the radiator and ran the vinyl hose into the 5 gallon bucket. I started the car and as the fluid was coming out of the hose and into the bucket I was adding the fresh Dex III into the dipstick tube. I poured 8 qts. into the trans and ran the motor with my assistant putting the trans through the gears and leaving it in drive until the fluid onl started to trickle out of the vinyl hose. At this point I stopped the engine and I drained the balance of the fluid from the pan and also drained the torque converter. I let it drain for about 45 minutes until it looked like it was only a few drops.
Most of the guys that are running the Hy-Gard use at least one quart of tranny fluid for coloring the base fluid and for some of the additvies, but mainly for color. I added 6 qts. to start and took it for a test drive, really quick to see if all was well. I also needed to adjust my my linkage since the motor was lowered and the linkage was off a bit.
I took it for a test drive and I CAN feel a difference, the shifting is a little firmer, yet not harsh. Those that have used it described it as "grippy". On hard accelleration, there is a slight flare between 2-3, but not as bad as before. When I am on the freeway it still slips a bit, but if I back off on the trottle a bit the speed catches up to the RPMs.
I will report more as I drive it some more and allow the fluid to do its' magic....The other thing I need to do is use a smaller orifice and see if that helps 2-3 shifting.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
I do not know what the valve body looks like or how it works in these cars; but with my Turbo 350 trans in my Sprint I removed the valve body and drilled out the holes in the separator plate where the 1-2 and 2-3 clutch apply fluid passes through. This didn't make the trans shift harder per-say but much firmer and quicker as the volume allowed to apply the clutches was increase significantly...
I dunno if this will help the 722 but it might be worth looking into.
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
09-11-2010, 05:29 PM #2Good to hear the fluid is making a difference.
I do not know what the valve body looks like or how it works in these cars; but with my Turbo 350 trans in my Sprint I removed the valve body and drilled out the holes in the separator plate where the 1-2 and 2-3 clutch apply fluid passes through. This didn't make the trans shift harder per-say but much firmer and quicker as the volume allowed to apply the clutches was increase significantly...
I dunno if this will help the 722 but it might be worth looking into.
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
__________________________
I have a feeling someone might "call" me on this-which I would welcome:
I and other friends of mine have used a product called Wynn's Trans Grip with wonderful results numerous times (on some pretty scary trannys). I believe Wynn's might have changed the name. It is supposed to work by (among other things I believe) by reconditioning seals. I was amazed by this product at the time. If you try it Rudolf let me know what you think....
"Molly" Jan. '84 black/tan 300d 180k miles, two owner car
Silberpfeil
09-12-2010, 05:31 AM #3Rudolf thanks for the thread and please keep us posted!
__________________________
I have a feeling someone might "call" me on this-which I would welcome:
I and other friends of mine have used a product called Wynn's Trans Grip with wonderful results numerous times (on some pretty scary trannys). I believe Wynn's might have changed the name. It is supposed to work by (among other things I believe) by reconditioning seals. I was amazed by this product at the time. If you try it Rudolf let me know what you think....
"Molly" Jan. '84 black/tan 300d 180k miles, two owner car
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