Captain's '82 300D Purists Must Die Prius Repellent
Captain's '82 300D Purists Must Die Prius Repellent
Well I backed out the ALDA screw as far as it would go. I only went 1 turn and then stopped. I didn't force it any further. Its pretty peppy now! Will it back out further? I don't wanna break anything...
Speaking from my purest save all classic Mercedes side... Capt'n, you really going to tear the motor out on that SD and swap it in with your 300D?
That's a nice looking, good running SD.... With original Cali Blue plates. I think it would be a shame to put her down. Unless something is seriously wrong with the the body.
.
I would tell you to pull it right off and see how you like it but that seems to be an unpopular move with most people. You can always put it back on.
The cap was on (siliconed). It was split, so I am unsure if someone had messed with it prior or not... It only puffs a very tiny amount of black when I go WOT from idle in park. This car does not smoke one bit. I mean NO smoke, EVER.
In all reality My father is trying to keep me from tearing this car apart too. But I really don't like how big this thing is!
+ My D is so much more nimble
+ I like this color
+ Has better paint
+ Lowered already
+ Rebuilt suspension
+ Battery relocated
+ Electrical and vacuum mods done.
- Rear smashed up a bit
+ perfect interior can be pulled from the NA car and swapped into the maroon...
Nothing is seriously wrong with the SD, but it does have a couple issues:
- The front brakes are fucked and the car shakes like crazy when applied
- interior is kinda trashed
- Paint is flaking from being sprayed without any sanding or prep work on original paint
- Different front passenger fender
I just think the D is a better car than the SD... I may pull the 617 out of the D and just rebuild instead of doing a swap... I don't Effffing know, I cant make up my mind
That's definitely where im headed Garage!
Will post nasty pics of the SD in a min ...
Yes. If you floor it from a stand still you will leave a decent black bomb. But you can control it with your foot, if you accelerate normally there's no smoke. You won't be rolling coal at every stop light.
I vote for the tank just because the w126 isnt that grrreat of a performer offroad in comparison to the w123.
The w123 is over all just a more fun car, its lighter and more nimble.
You cant toss the w126 around corners like you can toss the w123..
(03-02-2011, 07:05 AM)led-panzer Yes. If you floor it from a stand still you will leave a decent black bomb. But you can control it with your foot, if you accelerate normally there's no smoke. You won't be rolling coal at every stop light.
(03-02-2011, 10:39 AM)garage I vote for the tank just because the w126 isnt that grrreat of a performer offroad in comparison to the w123.
The w123 is over all just a more fun car, its lighter and more nimble.
You cant toss the w126 around corners like you can toss the w123..
(03-02-2011, 07:05 AM)led-panzer Yes. If you floor it from a stand still you will leave a decent black bomb. But you can control it with your foot, if you accelerate normally there's no smoke. You won't be rolling coal at every stop light.
(03-02-2011, 10:39 AM)garage I vote for the tank just because the w126 isnt that grrreat of a performer offroad in comparison to the w123.
The w123 is over all just a more fun car, its lighter and more nimble.
You cant toss the w126 around corners like you can toss the w123..
Relocated the kick down switch... Don't mind the unfinished wiring. Once I decide I like it, I will solder everything up nice.
Just realized that this switch doesn't provide as much control as I wanted.... Seems like it depends on bowden cable position too.
I don't bother with the floor switch. I use a DPDT on-off-momentary switch on the dash to control kickdown when I want it.
Yeah I was going to do a momentary on the side of the shifter handle like I did in the tank, but thought that's this is much better since I didn't need to buy a switch and I just press it like the high beam switch in an old GM car. Plus the switch still gets used and doesn't get all lonley under the diesel peddle!
So this car runs COLD unless I'm on the pipe or its warm out. Thermostat is new. Looks to have more anti freeze than water... Anyway, Attempting to put some electric fans on it that I had laying around... Bought a 185 degree on 175 degree off switch to put in the T-stat housing in place of the vacuum switch... Yeah well that 10mm x 1.0 thread is kicking my ass. Didn't really wanna buy a die for this but it seems to be rarely used thread. Starting to annoy me!
Revvs a little nicer and warms up nice and quick without the mechanical fan
Recent vids:
There is just no easy way to put a temp switch in the thermostat housing.
This almost worked...
The 40C switch?
Or is it?
The EGR's vacuum thermovalve. If I can assume you're like 99.9% of the rest of the people here with a "non operational" EGR then that valve is only taking up space. The valve's port can be drilled and tapped (off the car) from 1/8NPT and up, including M10 used by Mercedes' temperature sensors/switches.
The 78-79 W116 300SD used a 100*c switch to control the front A/C fan. A feature they removed from .95x engine starting in 1980.
I was trying to avoid taking the housing off the car to tap it. I wanted to stick a temp switch in the 10 x 1.0 mm hole but there isn't a switch that size anywhere that I can find. Seems like the 10mm hole is a little big for 1/8" NPT but guess that depends on how deep you go with the tap. 1/4" would definitely work but 3/8" looks to big to me.
The 100c switch would be perfect. what thread size is it? And do you have an idea of the 10mm x 1.0 size temp switches available?
I'd rather not put a probe through the radiator...
Can I get some help on what these switches are? They are off a '85
Is there a list of the temps switches with 10mm x 1.0 thread?
(03-17-2011, 09:32 PM)Captain America Can I get some help on what these switches are? They are off a '85That looks like the cold engine temperature shut off for the HVAC blower motor.
(03-17-2011, 09:32 PM)Captain AmericaThat temperature sensor is for the 1985 only vacuum modulation system for the transmission. It's a 50º C sensor.
(03-17-2011, 09:32 PM)Captain America Can I get some help on what these switches are? They are off a '85That looks like the cold engine temperature shut off for the HVAC blower motor.
(03-17-2011, 09:32 PM)Captain AmericaThat temperature sensor is for the 1985 only vacuum modulation system for the transmission. It's a 50º C sensor.
Waaaaa FML
What sensor going where?
I might be able to make an adapter for peanuts.
All I want to do is put a temp switch where the EGR vacuum was to control my fan relay without drilling and tapping the thermostat housing. I cant find any switches that are 1/4" NPT either.
M10x1 on the outside, right?
How long does the threaded section have to be, and what thread on the ID?
I could make an adapter out of brass for the grand price of shipping and the warm fuzzy feeling of helping out.
EDIT:
Just read fully, I'm not sure of any temp SWITCH that will fit, but I have made an adapter for the Mitsubishi temp sensor in my truck that was 1/8 npt...
Maybe throw together a quick comparator circuit with ratshack parts, and use a temp sensor? Would be a good beginners project in electronics.
I forsee an LM393, an RS flip flop, and some random support components such as 2 variable resistors, a transistor to drive the relay, some protection diodes, and maybe some LED's to show state.
Can also abuse a 555 timer to get the comparator and flip-flop, and reduce part count a bit.
GAH, I'm rambling...
(03-18-2011, 01:21 AM)300D50 M10x1 on the outside, right?
How long does the threaded section have to be, and what thread on the ID?
I could make an adapter out of brass for the grand price of shipping and the warm fuzzy feeling of helping out.
EDIT:
Just read fully, I'm not sure of any temp SWITCH that will fit, but I have made an adapter for the Mitsubishi temp sensor in my truck that was 1/8 npt...
Maybe throw together a quick comparator circuit with ratshack parts, and use a temp sensor? Would be a good beginners project in electronics.
I forsee an LM393, an RS flip flop, and some random support components such as 2 variable resistors, a transistor to drive the relay, some protection diodes, and maybe some LED's to show state.
Can also abuse a 555 timer to get the comparator and flip-flop, and reduce part count a bit.
GAH, I'm rambling...
(03-18-2011, 01:21 AM)300D50 M10x1 on the outside, right?
How long does the threaded section have to be, and what thread on the ID?
I could make an adapter out of brass for the grand price of shipping and the warm fuzzy feeling of helping out.
EDIT:
Just read fully, I'm not sure of any temp SWITCH that will fit, but I have made an adapter for the Mitsubishi temp sensor in my truck that was 1/8 npt...
Maybe throw together a quick comparator circuit with ratshack parts, and use a temp sensor? Would be a good beginners project in electronics.
I forsee an LM393, an RS flip flop, and some random support components such as 2 variable resistors, a transistor to drive the relay, some protection diodes, and maybe some LED's to show state.
Can also abuse a 555 timer to get the comparator and flip-flop, and reduce part count a bit.
GAH, I'm rambling...
Nope, it requires ~ 5 to 10 bucks in parts, a soldering iron, and patience.
Nice beginners project in analog design if you were interested.
Any temp switches smaller than 10mm that are in the right range?
Nothing even close to 10mm. Everything is 3/8" and 1/2" NPT, 12mm, or 16mm.
Theres a picture of that on the previous page haha
Woops... brainfart...
Note to self, don't peruse forums while sick...
Oh and congrats on the promotion!
Removed the rack limiter out of the IP this weekend. No change in power...
I need to make a socked to adjust the torque capsule
Want a pump 7.5 mm elements? I know one that might be for sale
Don't need to ask me twice!
(03-21-2011, 02:49 PM)garage How long did it take you to remove the rack limiter capt?
Did ya take the IP off the engine to do it this time?
Who ever gets rudolfs pump is one lucky duck. lotsa fuel
(03-21-2011, 02:49 PM)garage How long did it take you to remove the rack limiter capt?
Did ya take the IP off the engine to do it this time?
Who ever gets rudolfs pump is one lucky duck. lotsa fuel
Not yet. I will when I make the socket to adjust the torque capsule
These Speedo's are so annoying!
I won a Sony Bloggie And was just playing with it... Takes some awesome 1080 Video, but I should have made it in landscape...
Then some smart guy left the valve cover cap loose!
Man what a mess...
Lol nice. My car will cruise at 85 and seems to run out of gear/ power at 117
Yeah I cruised from LA to riverside @ 80-85 no prob.
She will keep going up to 4k at which I have no clue what speed that is... 70mph is right at 3k or so.
Video link failed hard core.
Bloggies are really cool.
(04-13-2011, 03:05 PM)Captain America ..
She will keep going up to 4k at which I have no clue what speed that is... 70mph is right at 3k or so.
(04-13-2011, 03:05 PM)Captain America ..
She will keep going up to 4k at which I have no clue what speed that is... 70mph is right at 3k or so.
Better link!
Since I like to shoot ALDA springs into outer space, I stopped by my local remodeled ACE Hardware today and found a whole drawer of em! Yay $.88!
Maybe not the exact thing but its pretty damn good for walking into the store and having to guess what to get. No more nigger rig! (no offense intended )
Got her into the operating room for surgery ... Starting in the morning
I wanna see some smoky burnouts! "The tank" should be puttin down the power after the transplant.