1998 E300 W210 Superturbo Project
1998 E300 W210 Superturbo Project
10-18-2010, 06:29 PM
#52
Doing the mock-up's for the supercharger outlet in cardboard and transferring them to aluminum:
![[Image: P9250105.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/P9250105.jpg)
Parts cut and shaped, ready for welding:
![[Image: PA170124.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/PA170124.jpg)
How it will look when complete:
![[Image: PA170127.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/PA170127.jpg)
And, an inside view:
![[Image: PA170126.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/PA170126.jpg)
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
Here's the latest:
Doing the mock-up's for the supercharger outlet in cardboard and transferring them to aluminum:
Parts cut and shaped, ready for welding:
How it will look when complete:
And, an inside view:
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
10-22-2010, 07:42 AM
#53
Beers,
Matt / HoleshotHolset / CumminsISBe
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
HoleshotHolset
10-22-2010, 07:42 AM #53Nice work so far - I'm looking forward to seeing the evolution of this project. BTW: That was me commenting on YouTube.
Beers,
Matt / HoleshotHolset / CumminsISBe
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
11-21-2010, 06:37 PM
#54
Here's the project "to do" list: (Boring but it's necessary)
X - Buy stainless fittings for exhaust manifold
O - Buy aluminum tubing for intake
O - Cut and fab exhaust manifold
O - Take exhaust manifold to shop for welding
O - Fab and move engine mount
O - Fit turbo to engine
O - Design turbo feed to SC
O - Fab bypass valves and turbo feed
O - Finish SC pulley mount and powder coat
O - Sandblast and paint SC
O - Fab cover for SC
O - Arrange to have pump fitted with new elements
O - Do electronic mods
O - Take intake parts to shop for welding
O - Fab exhaust system
O - Take turbo and exhaust manifold to be HPC coated
O - Fab gauge mount and install gauges
There's a lot more but that's all I can think of right this second. I'm committed to getting all this done by March 31st 2011! Feel free to harass me and keep me motivated!
This post was last modified: 11-27-2010, 08:42 PM by E300TSC.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
Well, it's been a month since my last update. I've been going round and round in my head re-designing the exhaust manifold. I think I have the final bugs worked out now and I can go ahead and order the parts.
Here's the project "to do" list: (Boring but it's necessary)
X - Buy stainless fittings for exhaust manifold
O - Buy aluminum tubing for intake
O - Cut and fab exhaust manifold
O - Take exhaust manifold to shop for welding
O - Fab and move engine mount
O - Fit turbo to engine
O - Design turbo feed to SC
O - Fab bypass valves and turbo feed
O - Finish SC pulley mount and powder coat
O - Sandblast and paint SC
O - Fab cover for SC
O - Arrange to have pump fitted with new elements
O - Do electronic mods
O - Take intake parts to shop for welding
O - Fab exhaust system
O - Take turbo and exhaust manifold to be HPC coated
O - Fab gauge mount and install gauges
There's a lot more but that's all I can think of right this second. I'm committed to getting all this done by March 31st 2011! Feel free to harass me and keep me motivated!
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
11-21-2010, 06:59 PM
#55
Looks good so far, keep up the good work!
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
11-21-2010, 06:59 PM #55How far are you going to go into the SC? I just replaced the needle bearings on the tail end, I have part #s if you want them. I also replaced the coupling - big difference in noise! I ended up scuffing and painting it, I didn't want to subject to the abrasives and heat of the powder coating process - just my two cents.
Looks good so far, keep up the good work!
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
11-21-2010, 07:28 PM
#56
Mylesofsmyles
11-21-2010, 07:28 PM #56whoa, this thread is inspirational! put this powerplant and the zf6 in a w123 estate and you've created my dream!
11-21-2010, 07:40 PM
#57
(11-21-2010, 06:59 PM)Rudolf_Diesel How far are you going to go into the SC? I just replaced the needle bearings on the tail end, I have part #s if you want them. I also replaced the coupling - big difference in noise! I ended up scuffing and painting it, I didn't want to subject to the abrasives and heat of the powder coating process - just my two cents.
Looks good so far, keep up the good work!
Sorry, it's supposed to be PAINT the SC. I had originally wanted to PC it but most of the coatings are not rated for the projected temperatures in the induction system so I've decided to just stick with paint.
The SC is in excellent shape. Seems like it was a rebuild before I bought it - tight and smooth.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
(11-21-2010, 06:59 PM)Rudolf_Diesel How far are you going to go into the SC? I just replaced the needle bearings on the tail end, I have part #s if you want them. I also replaced the coupling - big difference in noise! I ended up scuffing and painting it, I didn't want to subject to the abrasives and heat of the powder coating process - just my two cents.
Looks good so far, keep up the good work!
Sorry, it's supposed to be PAINT the SC. I had originally wanted to PC it but most of the coatings are not rated for the projected temperatures in the induction system so I've decided to just stick with paint.
The SC is in excellent shape. Seems like it was a rebuild before I bought it - tight and smooth.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
11-27-2010, 08:44 PM
#58
Anyone? Bueller?
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
I need a source for the gasket that goes between the "governor" cover and the main housing on the injection pump. The Russian site doesn't even show a part number for it.
Anyone? Bueller?
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
11-27-2010, 08:48 PM
#59
(11-27-2010, 08:44 PM)E300TSC I need a source for the gasket that goes between the "governor" cover and the main housing on the injection pump. The Russian site doesn't even show a part number for it.What pump are we talking about here? OM603.96x or OM606.96x?
Assuming it's the 606.962, I believe you want p/n 005-997-23-40, which shows up under the 606.912 engine or (European) 605.962, but they should use the same formed O-ring seal. Do a reverse lookup in the EPC and see if it's the one you want. It shows as callout #35 in the EPC for the 606.962 but no part number is displayed... one of the oddities in the EPC, I've seen this type of thing before, think there was a similar issue with DV seals or something like that.
This post was last modified: 11-27-2010, 08:54 PM by gsxr.
(11-27-2010, 08:44 PM)E300TSC I need a source for the gasket that goes between the "governor" cover and the main housing on the injection pump. The Russian site doesn't even show a part number for it.What pump are we talking about here? OM603.96x or OM606.96x?
Assuming it's the 606.962, I believe you want p/n 005-997-23-40, which shows up under the 606.912 engine or (European) 605.962, but they should use the same formed O-ring seal. Do a reverse lookup in the EPC and see if it's the one you want. It shows as callout #35 in the EPC for the 606.962 but no part number is displayed... one of the oddities in the EPC, I've seen this type of thing before, think there was a similar issue with DV seals or something like that.
11-27-2010, 10:13 PM
#60
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
Thanks, that's the one. I don't know why I couldn't find it before...
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
11-28-2010, 06:57 PM
#61
Template:
![[Image: IMG_4892.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/IMG_4892.jpg)
Test fitting the completed assembly in the ash tray.
![[Image: IMG_4895.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/IMG_4895.jpg)
Easy bake!
![[Image: IMG_4900.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/IMG_4900.jpg)
Complete!
![[Image: IMG_4901.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/IMG_4901.jpg)
Now you see it...
![[Image: IMG_4909.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/IMG_4909.jpg)
Now you don't!
![[Image: IMG_4911.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/IMG_4911.jpg)
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
Worked on the gauge mounting today:
Template:
Test fitting the completed assembly in the ash tray.
Easy bake!
Complete!
Now you see it...
Now you don't!
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
11-28-2010, 11:45 PM
#62
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
11-28-2010, 11:45 PM #62Dam that's cool!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
11-29-2010, 02:40 PM
#65
OM605 600hp diesel drag car build with BMW E30 chassis
11-29-2010, 05:08 PM
#66
This post was last modified: 11-29-2010, 05:08 PM by willbhere4u.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
11-29-2010, 05:08 PM #66I want a real easy bake oven in my car! um fresh cookies!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
11-29-2010, 05:46 PM
#67
(11-29-2010, 02:40 PM)jeemu What paint you used?
Thanks, Jeemu. The coating I used is powder from Eastwood.
This, I think:
http://www.eastwood.com/hotcoat-powder-satin-black.html
I would have to check the part number to be sure.
This post was last modified: 11-29-2010, 05:47 PM by E300TSC.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
(11-29-2010, 02:40 PM)jeemu What paint you used?
Thanks, Jeemu. The coating I used is powder from Eastwood.
This, I think:
http://www.eastwood.com/hotcoat-powder-satin-black.html
I would have to check the part number to be sure.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
12-01-2010, 09:42 PM
#68
1990 Mercury Blue Max Cougar 3.8L with Automatic
Future OM617 Super Turbo Diesel Conversion with T56 6 Speed Manual
Would the super charger with turbo set up work on a 617?I have a good Eaton off a 3.8L Ford V6.I don't wanna push the 617 to close to it's limit and blow it up.
1990 Mercury Blue Max Cougar 3.8L with Automatic
Future OM617 Super Turbo Diesel Conversion with T56 6 Speed Manual
12-02-2010, 12:14 AM
#69
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-02-2010, 12:14 AM #69check this out http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/new-...t-858.html
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
03-03-2011, 09:43 PM
#70
Tomorrow I have a date with the pump man to discuss the project in detail. I have a parts pump (thanks Dave) and I'll be taking that in for him to have a look at.Here's a list of the scope of the work I expect him to do. Any comments welcome.
Quote:
3/2/2011
Scope:
Install of customer supplied items:
New 7.5mm pump elements.
New Viton™ O-rings.
New side, bottom and back cover gaskets.
New shaft seal.
Modified advance device.
Adjustments:
Balance element output at idle and 80% rack travel. Customer will provide 80% rack position stop. (Open for discussion)
Set element to 9.5cc/1000 at idle rack position. Customer will provide idle rack stop.
Balance port closure to specs using existing cam rollers plus a combination of customer supplied spares and new parts if available.
Final assembly:
Torque all bolts to Bosch factory specs.
Torque DV holders in 3 steps according to Bosch factory specs with new customer supplied crush washers.
Note:
Lift pump will be eliminated and replaced with an electric pump so no lift pump maintenance is required.
It's starting to move along a little now and I'm excited to be making some progress!
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
Well, it's time to pull this back from page 6... Tomorrow I have a date with the pump man to discuss the project in detail. I have a parts pump (thanks Dave) and I'll be taking that in for him to have a look at.
Here's a list of the scope of the work I expect him to do. Any comments welcome.
Quote:
3/2/2011
Scope:
Install of customer supplied items:
New 7.5mm pump elements.
New Viton™ O-rings.
New side, bottom and back cover gaskets.
New shaft seal.
Modified advance device.
Adjustments:
Balance element output at idle and 80% rack travel. Customer will provide 80% rack position stop. (Open for discussion)
Set element to 9.5cc/1000 at idle rack position. Customer will provide idle rack stop.
Balance port closure to specs using existing cam rollers plus a combination of customer supplied spares and new parts if available.
Final assembly:
Torque all bolts to Bosch factory specs.
Torque DV holders in 3 steps according to Bosch factory specs with new customer supplied crush washers.
Note:
Lift pump will be eliminated and replaced with an electric pump so no lift pump maintenance is required.
It's starting to move along a little now and I'm excited to be making some progress!
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
03-04-2011, 10:17 PM
#72
I'm going to set up a date to do the work in a couple weeks.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
Had a great meeting with Kevin at Chason Diesel this morning. He's a 25 year veteran pump man and he has no concerns whatsoever about installing the elements and setting up the pump.
I'm going to set up a date to do the work in a couple weeks.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
03-05-2011, 11:06 AM
#73
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
Thats great! Keep us updated on this for sure!!
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
03-07-2011, 10:13 AM
#74
(03-04-2011, 10:17 PM)E300TSC Had a great meeting with Kevin at Chason Diesel this morning. He's a 25 year veteran pump man and he has no concerns whatsoever about installing the elements and setting up the pump.
I'm going to set up a date to do the work in a couple weeks.
$$$?
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(03-04-2011, 10:17 PM)E300TSC Had a great meeting with Kevin at Chason Diesel this morning. He's a 25 year veteran pump man and he has no concerns whatsoever about installing the elements and setting up the pump.
I'm going to set up a date to do the work in a couple weeks.
$$$?
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
03-20-2011, 08:32 PM
#75
I have both of the exhaust manifold flanges nearly done. (front 3 and back 3) The only things yet to do are to mill the groove for the piping to fit and be welded into. I also pulled the injection pump today and I'll be stripping it this week in preparation for the new element install this Thursday and Friday.
As of now, I don't know the final cost on the pump work but based on my conversations with the manager, it's not going to be a lot of money since he won't have to try and balance a mechanical mechanism to fit the new elements. Basically, he's installing the elements, balancing the output and port closure.
I'll post more updates as things happen.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
Here's where I'm at now. I've been taking classes to be certified on various machine tools. I can do a few things with my own shop tools but this project is requiring more heavy duty machining.
I have both of the exhaust manifold flanges nearly done. (front 3 and back 3) The only things yet to do are to mill the groove for the piping to fit and be welded into. I also pulled the injection pump today and I'll be stripping it this week in preparation for the new element install this Thursday and Friday.
As of now, I don't know the final cost on the pump work but based on my conversations with the manager, it's not going to be a lot of money since he won't have to try and balance a mechanical mechanism to fit the new elements. Basically, he's installing the elements, balancing the output and port closure.
I'll post more updates as things happen.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
03-23-2011, 09:59 AM
#76
Also, the timing index mark appears to be a metal tab with a hole in it. Do I set the timing by aligning the timing number in the hole or what?
Thanks for the help!
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
Here's an easy question: What timing mark do I set the engine at before re-installing the pump. I believe when the mark is at TDC, the pump tab was aligned with the slot in the pump tool.
Also, the timing index mark appears to be a metal tab with a hole in it. Do I set the timing by aligning the timing number in the hole or what?
Thanks for the help!
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
03-23-2011, 01:22 PM
#77
http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20...1-8410.pdf
14° ATDC, set with the mark at the edge of the tab - ignore the hole. You need the lock tool for the IP to install it, otherwise it will not remain in position.
http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20...1-8410.pdf
03-23-2011, 04:27 PM
#78
(03-23-2011, 09:59 AM)E300TSC Here's an easy question: What timing mark do I set the engine at before re-installing the pump. I believe when the mark is at TDC, the pump tab was aligned with the slot in the pump tool.
Also, the timing index mark appears to be a metal tab with a hole in it. Do I set the timing by aligning the timing number in the hole or what?
Thanks for the help!
you can choose the position of the tap or better this has to be set by the shop that does the element swap. You should tell the guy to check begin of delivery and compare it with the IP cam position.
On the mechanical pumps (60x engines) the tap is on the fly weights. The fly weight assembly is on the conical end of the cam. Held in position with the locking device and tightened at a certain plunger lift.
Don't ask why I know this in detail...
A good shop will tell you at what crank position the locking device has to go in. Original is 15deg ATDC crank position.
Tom
(03-23-2011, 09:59 AM)E300TSC Here's an easy question: What timing mark do I set the engine at before re-installing the pump. I believe when the mark is at TDC, the pump tab was aligned with the slot in the pump tool.
Also, the timing index mark appears to be a metal tab with a hole in it. Do I set the timing by aligning the timing number in the hole or what?
Thanks for the help!
you can choose the position of the tap or better this has to be set by the shop that does the element swap. You should tell the guy to check begin of delivery and compare it with the IP cam position.
On the mechanical pumps (60x engines) the tap is on the fly weights. The fly weight assembly is on the conical end of the cam. Held in position with the locking device and tightened at a certain plunger lift.
Don't ask why I know this in detail...
A good shop will tell you at what crank position the locking device has to go in. Original is 15deg ATDC crank position.
Tom
03-23-2011, 05:01 PM
#79
1977 300D for parts? Just a pile of rust but still runs!
1984 190D 2.2 - gone to better home
1987 Dodge Maxivan with OM603 and Goran’s 7.5 backroads terror
1987 300TD - tinker toy
1989 300TE - parts
1991 300TE - backyards decor
1991 300TD - Barrote’s 7.5
1992 300TD - semi-STD(Goran modified 7.5 ip but still with factory turbo+at)
1998 E300TD - dd with DSL1 now
1998 ML320 - snow ride
2014 Sprinter 2500 - Malone’s tune + pedal box
I know it is of topic but I located IP from 606 and need to make decision fast. Question: is the IP from 95' 606 engine going to work on 603. I am aware that max rpm is lower etc. Just wondering if someone done it.
1977 300D for parts? Just a pile of rust but still runs!
1984 190D 2.2 - gone to better home
1987 Dodge Maxivan with OM603 and Goran’s 7.5 backroads terror
1987 300TD - tinker toy
1989 300TE - parts
1991 300TE - backyards decor
1991 300TD - Barrote’s 7.5
1992 300TD - semi-STD(Goran modified 7.5 ip but still with factory turbo+at)
1998 E300TD - dd with DSL1 now
1998 ML320 - snow ride
2014 Sprinter 2500 - Malone’s tune + pedal box
03-23-2011, 08:27 PM
#80
(03-23-2011, 05:01 PM)anjay Question: is the IP from 95' 606 engine going to work on 603.
Yes, but there is no benefit because they are identical. You'll actually lose power since the 606 is only 120hp while a 603a is 148hp.
This post was last modified: 03-23-2011, 08:28 PM by ForcedInduction.
ForcedInduction
03-23-2011, 08:27 PM
#80
(03-23-2011, 05:01 PM)anjay Question: is the IP from 95' 606 engine going to work on 603.
Yes, but there is no benefit because they are identical. You'll actually lose power since the 606 is only 120hp while a 603a is 148hp.
03-23-2011, 08:56 PM
#81
Almost identical but not quite. The 606 is a non-turbo and has an ADA, while the 603 is a turbo and has an ALDA (for North American models, anyway). The 606 pump would need to be recalibrated to deliver more fuel on a turbo 603 if you want the full power delivery. Unless of course you are located in Europe and are referring to a non-turbo 603 engine...
03-23-2011, 09:54 PM
#82
1977 300D for parts? Just a pile of rust but still runs!
1984 190D 2.2 - gone to better home
1987 Dodge Maxivan with OM603 and Goran’s 7.5 backroads terror
1987 300TD - tinker toy
1989 300TE - parts
1991 300TE - backyards decor
1991 300TD - Barrote’s 7.5
1992 300TD - semi-STD(Goran modified 7.5 ip but still with factory turbo+at)
1998 E300TD - dd with DSL1 now
1998 ML320 - snow ride
2014 Sprinter 2500 - Malone’s tune + pedal box
Thanks guys! It is US model turbo. I was all exited because Ip has 6mm elements in it.
1977 300D for parts? Just a pile of rust but still runs!
1984 190D 2.2 - gone to better home
1987 Dodge Maxivan with OM603 and Goran’s 7.5 backroads terror
1987 300TD - tinker toy
1989 300TE - parts
1991 300TE - backyards decor
1991 300TD - Barrote’s 7.5
1992 300TD - semi-STD(Goran modified 7.5 ip but still with factory turbo+at)
1998 E300TD - dd with DSL1 now
1998 ML320 - snow ride
2014 Sprinter 2500 - Malone’s tune + pedal box
05-07-2011, 10:04 PM
#85
My re-located right side engine mount:
![[Image: P4120172.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/P4120172.jpg)
![[Image: P4120168.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/P4120168.jpg)
This will provide the needed room to mount the turbo.
I also changed all of the valve cover seals and painted the valve cover a pleasing shade of red...
![[Image: P4120167.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/P4120167.jpg)
The 7.5mm elements are installed in the pump and I'm going to try and start the car tomorrow afternoon.
Wish me luck!
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
Hi, small update:
My re-located right side engine mount:
This will provide the needed room to mount the turbo.
I also changed all of the valve cover seals and painted the valve cover a pleasing shade of red...
The 7.5mm elements are installed in the pump and I'm going to try and start the car tomorrow afternoon.
Wish me luck!
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
05-07-2011, 10:39 PM
#86
Great project
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
led-panzer
05-07-2011, 10:39 PM #86Ooooh pretty. Are you keeping the stock exhaust manifold?
Great project
1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
05-08-2011, 06:30 PM
#88
After i fitted my 7.5mm elements i put the pump on to engine without any adjustments to the elements and run the engine. Then i did my test and cylinders 4 and 2 where putting out twice as much fuel as the rest at idle.
I used a measuring tube and by running my 5 cylinder engine on 4 cylinders for exactly 60 seconds with one injector pipe spraying diesel into the tube i was able to measure quantities. Then i reconnected that injector pipe and let the engine clear itself back on all cylinders before going to the next pipe. This bit is important because you will get different results if you dont let the engine get back on all cylinders before going to the next pipe.
You will need an assistant and a stop watch to get this right. Start the engine and time from when it fires and then at 60 seconds switch it off and measure. Reconnect pipe and start engine and let it clear. Then repeat for every cylinder. Adjust elements on the rack to suit and you will have a sweet running engine. You can do a crack test on the injector lines before and after adjustments and you will see the difference. You could spend a few hours at this to get it perfect.
My engine was my test bench which allowed me to set the pump up for the situation its going to be in on the engine with different bends in the lines etc.
wayne
hi, if its any help to you
After i fitted my 7.5mm elements i put the pump on to engine without any adjustments to the elements and run the engine. Then i did my test and cylinders 4 and 2 where putting out twice as much fuel as the rest at idle.
I used a measuring tube and by running my 5 cylinder engine on 4 cylinders for exactly 60 seconds with one injector pipe spraying diesel into the tube i was able to measure quantities. Then i reconnected that injector pipe and let the engine clear itself back on all cylinders before going to the next pipe. This bit is important because you will get different results if you dont let the engine get back on all cylinders before going to the next pipe.
You will need an assistant and a stop watch to get this right. Start the engine and time from when it fires and then at 60 seconds switch it off and measure. Reconnect pipe and start engine and let it clear. Then repeat for every cylinder. Adjust elements on the rack to suit and you will have a sweet running engine. You can do a crack test on the injector lines before and after adjustments and you will see the difference. You could spend a few hours at this to get it perfect.
My engine was my test bench which allowed me to set the pump up for the situation its going to be in on the engine with different bends in the lines etc.
wayne
05-09-2011, 09:34 PM
#89
(03-03-2011, 09:43 PM)E300TSC Note:
Lift pump will be eliminated and replaced with an electric pump so no lift
Based on that sentence - I have a few questions:
What kind of electric pump do you plan on running?
How do you intend on bypassing the OEM lift pump bolted to the injection pump? Block off plate? Custom fuel lines? Are you also eliminating the fuel heater/thermostat?
What kind of pressure do these electronically controlled inline pumps like? I'm used to the inline P7100's on the Cummins B5.9's and they like (depending on who you ask...) at least 25-35 psi at idle...and never less than that when under load or at higher RPM.
Beers,
Matt
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
HoleshotHolset
05-09-2011, 09:34 PM #89(03-03-2011, 09:43 PM)E300TSC Note:
Lift pump will be eliminated and replaced with an electric pump so no lift
Based on that sentence - I have a few questions:
What kind of electric pump do you plan on running?
How do you intend on bypassing the OEM lift pump bolted to the injection pump? Block off plate? Custom fuel lines? Are you also eliminating the fuel heater/thermostat?
What kind of pressure do these electronically controlled inline pumps like? I'm used to the inline P7100's on the Cummins B5.9's and they like (depending on who you ask...) at least 25-35 psi at idle...and never less than that when under load or at higher RPM.
Beers,
Matt
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
05-10-2011, 05:18 AM
#90
No, I'm not keeping the stock manifold, I'm designing and fabricating a custom piece.
Yes, I installed the elements myself. It's actually not that hard but it was very time consuming because I had to invent the special tools I needed to accomplish the task without damaging anything.
Wayne, that's great info. Thanks!
Matt, I'm probably going to use a Powerstroke stock fuel pump. They're pretty cheap ($65) and should be able to supply enough fuel to support the my 400HP goal. I'm going to regulate the pressure to around 25 PSI as you say. I'll develop an adjustable regulator so I can optimize the pressure. No sense pushing more than it needs...
For now, I'm keeping the fuel system intact and I'll be making small mods as I go along. Eventually, I would use a blocking plate for the old fuel pump hole.So, an update:
Last night I got it started for the first time. It settled into a fairly normal idle with an even clatter with no smoke. However, it's VERY slow to rev. I checked the timing and found that I had improperly set the initial number and it had somehow slipped to 24* ATDC. I think it was the slop in the cam chain and I had not fully advanced the engine to the proper position since the crank shaft had slipped when I was removing the pump and I had to reset it.
I also have fuel leaking badly from the injection lines at the pump. It always seems like a pain to get them to stop leaking. Maybe I have to "square up" the lines in the holders before tightening them.
One other thing: DON'T RUN/CRANK YOUR ENGINE WITH THE VACUUM PUMP OFF! Found out the hard way that it dumps oil out of the lubrication port...
This post was last modified: 05-10-2011, 05:20 AM by E300TSC.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
Answers to your questions:
No, I'm not keeping the stock manifold, I'm designing and fabricating a custom piece.
Yes, I installed the elements myself. It's actually not that hard but it was very time consuming because I had to invent the special tools I needed to accomplish the task without damaging anything.
Wayne, that's great info. Thanks!
Matt, I'm probably going to use a Powerstroke stock fuel pump. They're pretty cheap ($65) and should be able to supply enough fuel to support the my 400HP goal. I'm going to regulate the pressure to around 25 PSI as you say. I'll develop an adjustable regulator so I can optimize the pressure. No sense pushing more than it needs... For now, I'm keeping the fuel system intact and I'll be making small mods as I go along. Eventually, I would use a blocking plate for the old fuel pump hole.
So, an update:
Last night I got it started for the first time. It settled into a fairly normal idle with an even clatter with no smoke. However, it's VERY slow to rev. I checked the timing and found that I had improperly set the initial number and it had somehow slipped to 24* ATDC. I think it was the slop in the cam chain and I had not fully advanced the engine to the proper position since the crank shaft had slipped when I was removing the pump and I had to reset it.
I also have fuel leaking badly from the injection lines at the pump. It always seems like a pain to get them to stop leaking. Maybe I have to "square up" the lines in the holders before tightening them.
One other thing: DON'T RUN/CRANK YOUR ENGINE WITH THE VACUUM PUMP OFF! Found out the hard way that it dumps oil out of the lubrication port...
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
05-10-2011, 09:21 AM
#91
(05-10-2011, 05:18 AM)E300TSC Matt, I'm probably going to use a Powerstroke stock fuel pump. They're pretty cheap ($65) and should be able to supply enough fuel to support the my 400HP goal.
OK - sounds like a winner so far.
If you are going to leave the OEM pump in place, where in the system do you intend on splicing in the PS pump? The reason I ask is that some pumps don't take well to having fuel forced through them.
I'm glad to hear you got 'er running - and especially glad that it settled into a good idle. That's an encouraging sign that the OEM electronics can handle larger elements! Nice work!
Beers,
Matt
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
HoleshotHolset
05-10-2011, 09:21 AM #91(05-10-2011, 05:18 AM)E300TSC Matt, I'm probably going to use a Powerstroke stock fuel pump. They're pretty cheap ($65) and should be able to supply enough fuel to support the my 400HP goal.
OK - sounds like a winner so far.
If you are going to leave the OEM pump in place, where in the system do you intend on splicing in the PS pump? The reason I ask is that some pumps don't take well to having fuel forced through them.
I'm glad to hear you got 'er running - and especially glad that it settled into a good idle. That's an encouraging sign that the OEM electronics can handle larger elements! Nice work!
Beers,
Matt
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
05-10-2011, 12:55 PM
#92
(05-10-2011, 05:18 AM)E300TSC One other thing: DON'T RUN/CRANK YOUR ENGINE WITH THE VACUUM PUMP OFF! Found out the hard way that it dumps oil out of the lubrication port...
why didn't you ask, I could have told you since I played with pump and timing device. But it was my friend who watched deep into the chain drive when I started the car
How long did it take that you got my elements to run?
I hardly remember that you were the first guy in the US I sent elements.
Great job so far but wait until she breathes with all the "respiratory equipment" you installed..
Tom
(05-10-2011, 05:18 AM)E300TSC One other thing: DON'T RUN/CRANK YOUR ENGINE WITH THE VACUUM PUMP OFF! Found out the hard way that it dumps oil out of the lubrication port...
why didn't you ask, I could have told you since I played with pump and timing device. But it was my friend who watched deep into the chain drive when I started the car
How long did it take that you got my elements to run?
I hardly remember that you were the first guy in the US I sent elements.
Great job so far but wait until she breathes with all the "respiratory equipment" you installed..
Tom
05-10-2011, 07:44 PM
#93
Tom, the engine started instantly as soon as the air was purged. It sounded totally normal at idle. The only strange thing is that when I revved the engine, it would start making a "rump" "rump" sound as the ECU was hunting for a normal speed. I feel that this is because the rack is now too close to the closed position and the ECU can't modulate it properly to maintain a proper idle speed.
Otherwise, the only thing I did was swap elements - no other adjustments besides using the heavier DV springs you sent with the 7mm elements.
I wanted to see how bad it would run without adjustment and it ran quite well!
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
Matt, I will not leave the stock pump in place. I plan on crossing over the fuel lines to bypass it. In theory, the best place to put the electric pump is in the back, between the fuel tank outlet and the line leading forward to the engine.
Tom, the engine started instantly as soon as the air was purged. It sounded totally normal at idle. The only strange thing is that when I revved the engine, it would start making a "rump" "rump" sound as the ECU was hunting for a normal speed. I feel that this is because the rack is now too close to the closed position and the ECU can't modulate it properly to maintain a proper idle speed.
Otherwise, the only thing I did was swap elements - no other adjustments besides using the heavier DV springs you sent with the 7mm elements.
I wanted to see how bad it would run without adjustment and it ran quite well!
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
05-11-2011, 01:15 AM
#95
This post was last modified: 05-11-2011, 01:15 AM by mike-81-240d.
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
mike-81-240d
05-11-2011, 01:15 AM #95Now hire yourself out to us...
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
05-11-2011, 09:43 AM
#96
(05-10-2011, 07:44 PM)E300TSC Matt, I will not leave the stock pump in place. I plan on crossing over the fuel lines to bypass it. In theory, the best place to put the electric pump is in the back, between the fuel tank outlet and the line leading forward to the engine.
OK - that's what I was thinking you'd do.
When you rev'd up the engine, did it sound like this? I've always thought that it was the governor bouncing a bit until it stabilized at higher RPM that caused this to occur on a lot of heavily modified pulling engines. With an electronic governor, the same sort of thing could be happening...
This post was last modified: 05-11-2011, 09:50 AM by HoleshotHolset.
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
HoleshotHolset
05-11-2011, 09:43 AM #96(05-10-2011, 07:44 PM)E300TSC Matt, I will not leave the stock pump in place. I plan on crossing over the fuel lines to bypass it. In theory, the best place to put the electric pump is in the back, between the fuel tank outlet and the line leading forward to the engine.
OK - that's what I was thinking you'd do.
When you rev'd up the engine, did it sound like this? I've always thought that it was the governor bouncing a bit until it stabilized at higher RPM that caused this to occur on a lot of heavily modified pulling engines. With an electronic governor, the same sort of thing could be happening...
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
05-11-2011, 05:17 PM
#99
Tom, the engine started instantly as soon as the air was purged. It sounded totally normal at idle. The only strange thing is that when I revved the engine, it would start making a "rump" "rump" sound as the ECU was hunting for a normal speed. I feel that this is because the rack is now too close to the closed position and the ECU can't modulate it properly to maintain a proper idle speed.
Otherwise, the only thing I did was swap elements - no other adjustments besides using the heavier DV springs you sent with the 7mm elements.
I wanted to see how bad it would run without adjustment and it ran quite well!
[/quote]
hi, have you modified the rack in any way? Maybe your timing is still out? I have no trouble with ecu now and made 266hp at 4300rpm, now i have 5500rpm and my clutch is gone so i don't know what power i have now that i have more rpm.
wayne
Tom, the engine started instantly as soon as the air was purged. It sounded totally normal at idle. The only strange thing is that when I revved the engine, it would start making a "rump" "rump" sound as the ECU was hunting for a normal speed. I feel that this is because the rack is now too close to the closed position and the ECU can't modulate it properly to maintain a proper idle speed.
Otherwise, the only thing I did was swap elements - no other adjustments besides using the heavier DV springs you sent with the 7mm elements.
I wanted to see how bad it would run without adjustment and it ran quite well!
[/quote]
hi, have you modified the rack in any way? Maybe your timing is still out? I have no trouble with ecu now and made 266hp at 4300rpm, now i have 5500rpm and my clutch is gone so i don't know what power i have now that i have more rpm.
wayne
05-11-2011, 08:24 PM
#100
I will now have to devise a way to get it out so I can get the pump back off to reset the timing...
(05-11-2011, 09:43 AM)HoleshotHolset(05-10-2011, 07:44 PM)E300TSC Matt, I will not leave the stock pump in place. I plan on crossing over the fuel lines to bypass it. In theory, the best place to put the electric pump is in the back, between the fuel tank outlet and the line leading forward to the engine.
OK - that's what I was thinking you'd do.
When you rev'd up the engine, did it sound like this? I've always thought that it was the governor bouncing a bit until it stabilized at higher RPM that caused this to occur on a lot of heavily modified pulling engines. With an electronic governor, the same sort of thing could be happening...
No, it revved normally, it just sounded stifled and then surged at idle.
This post was last modified: 05-11-2011, 08:29 PM by E300TSC.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
Oh yes, the timing is still 10 deg too far retarded. Now another problem, I stripped the hex head out of the bottom bolt that holds the vacuum pump on.
I will now have to devise a way to get it out so I can get the pump back off to reset the timing...
(05-11-2011, 09:43 AM)HoleshotHolset(05-10-2011, 07:44 PM)E300TSC Matt, I will not leave the stock pump in place. I plan on crossing over the fuel lines to bypass it. In theory, the best place to put the electric pump is in the back, between the fuel tank outlet and the line leading forward to the engine.
OK - that's what I was thinking you'd do.
When you rev'd up the engine, did it sound like this? I've always thought that it was the governor bouncing a bit until it stabilized at higher RPM that caused this to occur on a lot of heavily modified pulling engines. With an electronic governor, the same sort of thing could be happening...
No, it revved normally, it just sounded stifled and then surged at idle.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
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