setting ip timing with new 7,5mm M IP on 617
setting ip timing with new 7,5mm M IP on 617
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82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
I fought mine trying to do a drip timing and could never get the same reading twice. I'm not a big fan of the drip timing method. I finally broke down and got a timing light adapter. I looked inside my RIV plug, but it didn't have the little nub to activate the RIV sensor.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
(06-23-2011, 03:57 PM)BRABUS Hi
Its now time to install the 7.5mm M IP, the builder told me to set it at 18-20 degs BTDC.
I heard that the drip method isnt used on the M IP?
Hope some that have done this before can give me some help
who built the pump (installed elements)?
You have the marks on the front. The toothed part on the cam has one tooth missing (which is the mark) and on the plate behind there is a short line. Open the port that is used for the RIV method on newer pumps and fix the position with a cleaned wheel bolt from your car and install it while cylinder #1 is in compression stroke at 19 deg BTDC.
Tom
(06-23-2011, 03:57 PM)BRABUS Hi
Its now time to install the 7.5mm M IP, the builder told me to set it at 18-20 degs BTDC.
I heard that the drip method isnt used on the M IP?
Hope some that have done this before can give me some help
who built the pump (installed elements)?
You have the marks on the front. The toothed part on the cam has one tooth missing (which is the mark) and on the plate behind there is a short line. Open the port that is used for the RIV method on newer pumps and fix the position with a cleaned wheel bolt from your car and install it while cylinder #1 is in compression stroke at 19 deg BTDC.
Tom
I know about the marks on the toothed part on the cam and the plate behind.. should i sett these at the same place? and where should i set the crank?
sorry, but dont understand what you mean i should use the wheel bolt for, install it in the port where the riv method is used?
Thanks
the IP is made by PP DIESEL
I know about the marks on the toothed part on the cam and the plate behind.. should i sett these at the same place? and where should i set the crank?
sorry, but dont understand what you mean i should use the wheel bolt for, install it in the port where the riv method is used?
Thanks
The port has the same thread as the wheel bolt and you can block the shaft of the IP with this trick while you install the pump to prevent it from snapping, don't tight it too much, just by hand and a little bit more.
Align the marks and put the engine in 19 deg BTDC position then install the pump.
Tom
look at post #4.
The port has the same thread as the wheel bolt and you can block the shaft of the IP with this trick while you install the pump to prevent it from snapping, don't tight it too much, just by hand and a little bit more.
Align the marks and put the engine in 19 deg BTDC position then install the pump.
Tom
Thanks for your help.. can i maybe use the port where im installing the wheel bolt, to feed oil to the pump? i guess the pump need som oil feed from the same oil feed line the mw is getting it from?
aha... So i use the wheel bolt to lock the ip when both marks at the front of the pump is alligned, and then just set the crack to 18-20 btdc and put the pump in?
Thanks for your help.. can i maybe use the port where im installing the wheel bolt, to feed oil to the pump? i guess the pump need som oil feed from the same oil feed line the mw is getting it from?
(06-23-2011, 06:23 PM)Biohazard I fought mine trying to do a drip timing and could never get the same reading twice. I'm not a big fan of the drip timing method. I finally broke down and got a timing light adapter. I looked inside my RIV plug, but it didn't have the little nub to activate the RIV sensor.
Hi
timing light adapter? do you mean a timing flashing gun with a with a "sensor" to clamp around the injector lines?
(06-23-2011, 06:23 PM)Biohazard I fought mine trying to do a drip timing and could never get the same reading twice. I'm not a big fan of the drip timing method. I finally broke down and got a timing light adapter. I looked inside my RIV plug, but it didn't have the little nub to activate the RIV sensor.
Hi
timing light adapter? do you mean a timing flashing gun with a with a "sensor" to clamp around the injector lines?
It works great, you just have to have a 'base line' to go from. In my dads 82 300D and in another similar year 617.952 300SD the stock timing shows at 13 BTDC with a timing light. I have my 7.5 element M pump set at 14BTDC and it's pretty happy. On the oiling to the pump, I had a custom braided line made with the 8mm banjos; had it done at a local hydraulic shop. The line is actually a brake line, 1/8 inch inner diameter. The banjo bolt threads on the block and the threads on the pump are different. I had to get a new banjo bolt for the pump at the same hydraulic shop. The block end is fine thread (1.0mm pitch?) and the pump end is more coarse (1.25mm pitch?). I didn't run any extra oil drain, it drains from the front of the pump back into the crankcase. For the oil feed, I used the small plug that is just to the upper right of the info plate on the above picture. I just tried several times to upload the pic with it circled, but my computer here at work is a POS. The banjo bolt JUST BARELY clears the trans vacuum part, but it clears.
Hope that helps.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
Correct. See the info on it in my project thread, it's on the last page still. It works great, you just have to have a 'base line' to go from. In my dads 82 300D and in another similar year 617.952 300SD the stock timing shows at 13 BTDC with a timing light. I have my 7.5 element M pump set at 14BTDC and it's pretty happy.
On the oiling to the pump, I had a custom braided line made with the 8mm banjos; had it done at a local hydraulic shop. The line is actually a brake line, 1/8 inch inner diameter. The banjo bolt threads on the block and the threads on the pump are different. I had to get a new banjo bolt for the pump at the same hydraulic shop. The block end is fine thread (1.0mm pitch?) and the pump end is more coarse (1.25mm pitch?). I didn't run any extra oil drain, it drains from the front of the pump back into the crankcase. For the oil feed, I used the small plug that is just to the upper right of the info plate on the above picture. I just tried several times to upload the pic with it circled, but my computer here at work is a POS. The banjo bolt JUST BARELY clears the trans vacuum part, but it clears. Hope that helps.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
some friend of mine mounted pp d 7mm pumps on theirs 617. They did just block the oil feed at the engine. They have runned with it for several years?? so the pump must get the oil thru the gear !?!?!
The engine was a bit louder now
The car is running with the pump at 20BTDC.. Is it difrent readings on the timing using a electronic device and dooing it the manual way? is think i read something about it.
some friend of mine mounted pp d 7mm pumps on theirs 617. They did just block the oil feed at the engine. They have runned with it for several years?? so the pump must get the oil thru the gear !?!?!
The engine was a bit louder now
The gear looked like it had an oil feed in the middle, but I didn't want to take any chances on Fubaring a brand new (to me) 7.5 pump!
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
Yeah, using the timing light adapter, mine is set at about 14 BTDC, which should just about equal 25 BTDC using a drip method.
The gear looked like it had an oil feed in the middle, but I didn't want to take any chances on Fubaring a brand new (to me) 7.5 pump!
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
(06-24-2011, 05:34 PM)BRABUS The car is running with the pump at 20BTDC.. Is it difrent readings on the timing using a electronic device and dooing it the manual way? is think i read something about it.
some friend of mine mounted pp d 7mm pumps on theirs 617. They did just block the oil feed at the engine. They have runned with it for several years?? so the pump must get the oil thru the gear !?!?!
The engine was a bit louder now
Yes that's true, there is no need to feed oil. I have PP-Diesel 7mm pump with no oil feed, been working for several years. Also Pasi from PP-diesel said that it's fine to use no oil feed with he's pump.
- MB w126 300SD Superturbo (US) -83, Mods: OM617A with custom head work, Master Power Turbo 802332, PP-Diesel custom 7mm IP, China intercooler, KKD-Motorsport exhaust manifold, DIY intake manifold, Coolmist Waterinjection, DIY Supermeter display/datalog with PLX Wideband Lambda, Siekkinen custom 722.3 autotrans, Elbe Performance LSD, Green Filter cold air intake, straight 3" exhaust with two dual 2.5" outputs
- MB r129 500SL AMG (JDM) -94
Full AMG bodykit, full JDM features, modified ECU and exhaust
- MB w123 250E-TT (JDM) -85
Full 1JZ-GTE twinturbo conversion, full aircon, custom china cooler, custom IC-pipes, custom sport recaro interior, custom 3-piece JDM rims
(06-24-2011, 05:34 PM)BRABUS The car is running with the pump at 20BTDC.. Is it difrent readings on the timing using a electronic device and dooing it the manual way? is think i read something about it.
some friend of mine mounted pp d 7mm pumps on theirs 617. They did just block the oil feed at the engine. They have runned with it for several years?? so the pump must get the oil thru the gear !?!?!
The engine was a bit louder now
Yes that's true, there is no need to feed oil. I have PP-Diesel 7mm pump with no oil feed, been working for several years. Also Pasi from PP-diesel said that it's fine to use no oil feed with he's pump.
- MB w126 300SD Superturbo (US) -83, Mods: OM617A with custom head work, Master Power Turbo 802332, PP-Diesel custom 7mm IP, China intercooler, KKD-Motorsport exhaust manifold, DIY intake manifold, Coolmist Waterinjection, DIY Supermeter display/datalog with PLX Wideband Lambda, Siekkinen custom 722.3 autotrans, Elbe Performance LSD, Green Filter cold air intake, straight 3" exhaust with two dual 2.5" outputs
- MB r129 500SL AMG (JDM) -94
Full AMG bodykit, full JDM features, modified ECU and exhaust
- MB w123 250E-TT (JDM) -85
Full 1JZ-GTE twinturbo conversion, full aircon, custom china cooler, custom IC-pipes, custom sport recaro interior, custom 3-piece JDM rims
I have a question about your Ferrett. You said in the other thread to get the 6mm sensor. I measured my injection lines and they're 4.5mm. Do the 617's have larger lines or will the 6mm squeeze down far enough?
Thanks!
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
Bio,
I have a question about your Ferrett. You said in the other thread to get the 6mm sensor. I measured my injection lines and they're 4.5mm. Do the 617's have larger lines or will the 6mm squeeze down far enough?
Thanks!
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
Just looked online, found only 6.0mm, 6.5mm and 1/4 inch adapters for the Ferret Timing adapter.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
I don't think that they will squeeze down far enough. They do make other sizes though, you may be able to find one that fits closer than a 6mm. It's a piezo sensor, so it has to have pretty good contact with the line. I didn't know the 606 has smaller lines, thats interesting.
Just looked online, found only 6.0mm, 6.5mm and 1/4 inch adapters for the Ferret Timing adapter.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
Thanks. I may have to buy one and figure out how to adapt it (like everything else...). But you're happy with it's operation? I really need to get my pump calibrated and timed properly.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
Very happy. It is super easy to use, even comes with instructions and the 9 volt battery! The only other thing you need is a timing light. I've used it on my car and my brothers car. His 240D has a ton of miles. It takes longer to warm the car up than it does to check the timing. Plus, now I don't have to open fuel lines! Conservative estimate, I had checked timing, adjusted timing, rechecked timing in about 10-15 minutes. If you can make an adaptor, this thing is a huge time saver. Find a stock 606, already correctly timed, to get your baseline from though. My base line and yours are probably way different. Good luck!
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
(06-23-2011, 05:23 PM)aaa Probably this thing. If that's not it then it doesn't have one.That's the oil line port also.
2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
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