Let's talk about tools!
Let's talk about tools!
09-17-2011, 03:27 AM
#1
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Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
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DeliveryValve
09-17-2011, 03:27 AM #1Please share any cool gadgets or tools that might be interesting or useful for us all.
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Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
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09-17-2011, 06:21 AM
#2
Good on rusty old mogs not so good for passenger vehicles.
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
I have been playing with a tool that's new to me for a few days. A needle scaler, that baby is no joke.
Good on rusty old mogs not so good for passenger vehicles.
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
09-17-2011, 09:36 AM
#3
I had this Digital Torque Adapter for a while and yesterday it proved it's worth when I tested my buddy's cheap Harbor Freight Clicker torque wrench. At the setting of 50 ft-lbs, the torque adapter noted 53.4 for an error of 6.8% . At the setting of 80 ft-lbs the torque adapter noted 71.3 ft-lbs for an error of -10.88%. This wrench is going to the garbage.
My digital torque adapter is a Powerbuilt ½ drive unit from ALLTRADE tools based in Long Beach, CA. The calibration inspection paper of my unit states in March 2009 it had at the most a .3% error. I probably took this tool out three times to check the wrenches, so I'm pretty sure it still is calibrated correctly.
In comparison I decided to do some testing on one of my Snap On torque wrenches to see if it's true. Based on the past test using the torque adapter, my Snap On is off by less then 4%, which was acceptable to me.
Yesterday the Snap On at 50 ft-lbs it registered 52 ft-lbs, at 80 it registered 83 ft-lbs and at 120 it registered at 125 ft-lbs. That 125 is bit on the high side, I might need to send it in for calibration. Anybody know of a reputable cheap shop? If not, then I'll probably send it to Micro Precision Calibration in Garden Grove, CA.
I also checked my my Snap On Inch Pound dial wrench. It basically showed the same values in the past as it is off by 4 inch pound through the dial range. Luckly I can adjust the dial to make up for the deficit.
I don't own any stock on this company or sell this product, I just thought it is a useful tool to have.
Anyways here is a video on this product.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EeQeH5YAcA
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This post was last modified: 09-17-2011, 09:38 AM by DeliveryValve.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
09-17-2011, 09:36 AM #3
I had this Digital Torque Adapter for a while and yesterday it proved it's worth when I tested my buddy's cheap Harbor Freight Clicker torque wrench. At the setting of 50 ft-lbs, the torque adapter noted 53.4 for an error of 6.8% . At the setting of 80 ft-lbs the torque adapter noted 71.3 ft-lbs for an error of -10.88%. This wrench is going to the garbage.
My digital torque adapter is a Powerbuilt ½ drive unit from ALLTRADE tools based in Long Beach, CA. The calibration inspection paper of my unit states in March 2009 it had at the most a .3% error. I probably took this tool out three times to check the wrenches, so I'm pretty sure it still is calibrated correctly.
In comparison I decided to do some testing on one of my Snap On torque wrenches to see if it's true. Based on the past test using the torque adapter, my Snap On is off by less then 4%, which was acceptable to me.
Yesterday the Snap On at 50 ft-lbs it registered 52 ft-lbs, at 80 it registered 83 ft-lbs and at 120 it registered at 125 ft-lbs. That 125 is bit on the high side, I might need to send it in for calibration. Anybody know of a reputable cheap shop? If not, then I'll probably send it to Micro Precision Calibration in Garden Grove, CA.
I also checked my my Snap On Inch Pound dial wrench. It basically showed the same values in the past as it is off by 4 inch pound through the dial range. Luckly I can adjust the dial to make up for the deficit.
I don't own any stock on this company or sell this product, I just thought it is a useful tool to have.
Anyways here is a video on this product.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EeQeH5YAcA
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Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
09-17-2011, 09:42 PM
#4
Back in the '90's, living in Germany, I owned a 4-cylinder W123 230 g@sser. In ten years I put 300,000 km on it (drove it all over Germany and France). Had to pull the head four times. The thought of using, as was standard procedure at MB dealerships, a slide hammer to remove the timing chain tensioner attachment pins was abhorrent to me --did MB really expect the head to not deform???
So I welded-up a tripod, about three inches tall, out of square iron bars cut from a fireplace gridiron.
I screwed a 3-inch screw into each attachment pin (the pins have a threaded hole, I forget what M number), the screw had a thick stiff fender washer on it, held tight to the screw's head by a nut and lockwasher.
Then, set the tripod over the pin-and-screw, held a 6-inch 3-hook gear puller on top of it, (in front of, i.e. toward the car's grille) its hooks through gaps between tripod's legs, grabbing the fender washer, and then by using the appropriate wrench on the gear-puller, out comes the attachment pin. Gently, without the slightest chance of doing damage to the head.
This post was last modified: 09-17-2011, 09:51 PM by JustPassinThru.
Gone but not forgotten: two W123 sedans and two W124 wagons.
W124 1987 300TD wagon, for sale, $1000 (some assembly required).
JustPassinThru
09-17-2011, 09:42 PM #4I'll contribute this description of a homemade tool. I don't have one today, but eventually I'll make another one:
Back in the '90's, living in Germany, I owned a 4-cylinder W123 230 g@sser. In ten years I put 300,000 km on it (drove it all over Germany and France). Had to pull the head four times. The thought of using, as was standard procedure at MB dealerships, a slide hammer to remove the timing chain tensioner attachment pins was abhorrent to me --did MB really expect the head to not deform???
So I welded-up a tripod, about three inches tall, out of square iron bars cut from a fireplace gridiron.
I screwed a 3-inch screw into each attachment pin (the pins have a threaded hole, I forget what M number), the screw had a thick stiff fender washer on it, held tight to the screw's head by a nut and lockwasher.
Then, set the tripod over the pin-and-screw, held a 6-inch 3-hook gear puller on top of it, (in front of, i.e. toward the car's grille) its hooks through gaps between tripod's legs, grabbing the fender washer, and then by using the appropriate wrench on the gear-puller, out comes the attachment pin. Gently, without the slightest chance of doing damage to the head.
Gone but not forgotten: two W123 sedans and two W124 wagons.
W124 1987 300TD wagon, for sale, $1000 (some assembly required).
09-18-2011, 09:40 AM
#5
(09-17-2011, 06:21 AM)larsalan I have been playing with a tool that's new to me for a few days. A needle scaler, that baby is no joke.
Good on rusty old mogs not so good for passenger vehicles.
I have no idea what that tool is for? Can you take a pic and explain how to use it?
.
(09-17-2011, 09:42 PM)JustPassinThru ..
Back in the '90's, living in Germany, I owned a 4-cylinder W123 230 g@sser. In ten years I put 300,000 km on it (drove it all over Germany and France). Had to pull the head four times. The thought of using, as was standard procedure at MB dealerships, a slide hammer to remove the timing chain tensioner attachment pins was abhorrent to me --did MB really expect the head to not deform???
So I welded-up a tripod, about three inches tall, out of square iron bars cut from a fireplace gridiron.
I screwed a 3-inch screw into each attachment pin (the pins have a threaded hole, I forget what M number), the screw had a thick stiff fender washer on it, held tight to the screw's head by a nut and lockwasher.
Then, set the tripod over the pin-and-screw, held a 6-inch 3-hook gear puller on top of it, (in front of, i.e. toward the car's grille) its hooks through gaps between tripod's legs, grabbing the fender washer, and then by using the appropriate wrench on the gear-puller, out comes the attachment pin. Gently, without the slightest chance of doing damage to the head.
This sounds like a similar tool jhunt253 created to remove the pre-chambers on his '95 E300. E300TSC saw it and posted pictures over at peachparts. Hopefully one or the other would do the same here. That tool is really slick.
.
This post was last modified: 09-18-2011, 09:55 AM by DeliveryValve.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
09-18-2011, 09:40 AM #5(09-17-2011, 06:21 AM)larsalan I have been playing with a tool that's new to me for a few days. A needle scaler, that baby is no joke.
Good on rusty old mogs not so good for passenger vehicles.
I have no idea what that tool is for? Can you take a pic and explain how to use it?
.
(09-17-2011, 09:42 PM)JustPassinThru ..
Back in the '90's, living in Germany, I owned a 4-cylinder W123 230 g@sser. In ten years I put 300,000 km on it (drove it all over Germany and France). Had to pull the head four times. The thought of using, as was standard procedure at MB dealerships, a slide hammer to remove the timing chain tensioner attachment pins was abhorrent to me --did MB really expect the head to not deform???
So I welded-up a tripod, about three inches tall, out of square iron bars cut from a fireplace gridiron.
I screwed a 3-inch screw into each attachment pin (the pins have a threaded hole, I forget what M number), the screw had a thick stiff fender washer on it, held tight to the screw's head by a nut and lockwasher.
Then, set the tripod over the pin-and-screw, held a 6-inch 3-hook gear puller on top of it, (in front of, i.e. toward the car's grille) its hooks through gaps between tripod's legs, grabbing the fender washer, and then by using the appropriate wrench on the gear-puller, out comes the attachment pin. Gently, without the slightest chance of doing damage to the head.
This sounds like a similar tool jhunt253 created to remove the pre-chambers on his '95 E300. E300TSC saw it and posted pictures over at peachparts. Hopefully one or the other would do the same here. That tool is really slick.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
09-18-2011, 10:13 AM
#6
(09-18-2011, 09:40 AM)DeliveryValve(09-17-2011, 06:21 AM)larsalan I have been playing with a tool that's new to me for a few days. A needle scaler, that baby is no joke.
Good on rusty old mogs not so good for passenger vehicles.
I have no idea what that tool is for? Can you take a pic and explain how to use it?
http://www.google.com/search?aq=f&source...dle+scaler
Like a tattoo gun kinda but 10 times as big and the tips are blunt. Has about 25-30 steel rods for jackhammering on rusty old steel and sun baked paint.
This post was last modified: 09-18-2011, 10:15 AM by larsalan.
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
(09-18-2011, 09:40 AM)DeliveryValve(09-17-2011, 06:21 AM)larsalan I have been playing with a tool that's new to me for a few days. A needle scaler, that baby is no joke.
Good on rusty old mogs not so good for passenger vehicles.
I have no idea what that tool is for? Can you take a pic and explain how to use it?
http://www.google.com/search?aq=f&source...dle+scaler
Like a tattoo gun kinda but 10 times as big and the tips are blunt. Has about 25-30 steel rods for jackhammering on rusty old steel and sun baked paint.
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
09-18-2011, 10:26 AM
#7
(09-18-2011, 10:13 AM)larsalan ...
http://www.google.com/search?aq=f&source...dle+scaler
Like a tattoo gun kinda but 10 times as big and the tips are blunt. Has about 25-30 steel rods for jackhammering on rusty old steel and sun baked paint.
OK, I've seen those before. Thanks.
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Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
09-18-2011, 10:26 AM #7(09-18-2011, 10:13 AM)larsalan ...
http://www.google.com/search?aq=f&source...dle+scaler
Like a tattoo gun kinda but 10 times as big and the tips are blunt. Has about 25-30 steel rods for jackhammering on rusty old steel and sun baked paint.
OK, I've seen those before. Thanks.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
09-19-2011, 06:23 PM
#9
-Jesse
80 300sd hy35, front mount intercooler, w115 intake, rack limiter removed, Alda removed, full load turned up, boost, ebp, trans, pyro, egr delete, 3.5" exhaust, e-fan, 16x8 rims with, 245/50 tires, lowered, bilstien 5100's, 12" front brakes, 2.65:1 diff.
97 f250 psd 4x4, crawler
70 f250 390
83 Volvo 242, lots of mods
66 Volvo amazon
10 mistsubishi fuso service truck.
I thought this was going to be another FI thread. I have a few cool special tools for larger diesels. Rocker arm tools for a ism, isb wood dowels to hold the lifters up when pulling a cam, special wrenches, dummy sensors,
-Jesse
80 300sd hy35, front mount intercooler, w115 intake, rack limiter removed, Alda removed, full load turned up, boost, ebp, trans, pyro, egr delete, 3.5" exhaust, e-fan, 16x8 rims with, 245/50 tires, lowered, bilstien 5100's, 12" front brakes, 2.65:1 diff.
97 f250 psd 4x4, crawler
70 f250 390
83 Volvo 242, lots of mods
66 Volvo amazon
10 mistsubishi fuso service truck.
09-20-2011, 09:14 AM
#10
(09-17-2011, 09:36 AM)DeliveryValve I had this Digital Torque Adapter for a while and yesterday it proved it's worth when I tested my buddy's cheap Harbor Freight Clicker torque wrench. At the setting of 50 ft-lbs, the torque adapter noted 53.4 for an error of 6.8% . At the setting of 80 ft-lbs the torque adapter noted 71.3 ft-lbs for an error of -10.88%. This wrench is going to the garbage.
I bought the HF version of this for $29 last night. Its minimum is 40NM but I was able to verify that my HF click torque wrench is under 4% of error at 40NM. I was VERY surprised
. Need to test my 3/8" but couldnt find the adapter.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(09-17-2011, 09:36 AM)DeliveryValve I had this Digital Torque Adapter for a while and yesterday it proved it's worth when I tested my buddy's cheap Harbor Freight Clicker torque wrench. At the setting of 50 ft-lbs, the torque adapter noted 53.4 for an error of 6.8% . At the setting of 80 ft-lbs the torque adapter noted 71.3 ft-lbs for an error of -10.88%. This wrench is going to the garbage.
I bought the HF version of this for $29 last night. Its minimum is 40NM but I was able to verify that my HF click torque wrench is under 4% of error at 40NM. I was VERY surprised
. Need to test my 3/8" but couldnt find the adapter.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
09-20-2011, 01:12 PM
#11
(09-19-2011, 08:17 AM)winmutt Anyone seen these northern tool digital torque wrenches for $100?
Haven't seen the northern tool's version.
But I came across a Brownline version. These guys were offering the TDI guys their wrench for $99.00 with the promotional code of "TDI". The Rep said their wrench was accurate up to 3.5%.
Brownline Torque Wrench
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(09-20-2011, 09:14 AM)winmutt ..
I bought the HF version of this for $29 last night. Its minimum is 40NM but I was able to verify that my HF click torque wrench is under 4% of error at 40NM. I was VERY surprised
Very similar to the Powerbuilt unit I posted.
http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-tor...68283.html
4% error on your clicker is good in my book. You'll need to test the HF wrench out in the higher range which I bet you'll find a bigger error like I found. After testing my buddy's wrench, I did some research and found most people are saying the HF clicker wrenches last only for a few uses and the calibration goes off. The calibration companies don't want to calibrate them because they are not worth it. So they are consider a couple time use throw away wrench.
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(09-19-2011, 06:23 PM)dieselboy .. I have a few cool special tools for larger diesels. Rocker arm tools for a ism, isb wood dowels to hold the lifters up when pulling a cam, special wrenches, dummy sensors,
Any pics or descriptions of what they are for and how to use them?
,
This post was last modified: 09-20-2011, 01:24 PM by DeliveryValve.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
09-20-2011, 01:12 PM #11(09-19-2011, 08:17 AM)winmutt Anyone seen these northern tool digital torque wrenches for $100?
Haven't seen the northern tool's version.
But I came across a Brownline version. These guys were offering the TDI guys their wrench for $99.00 with the promotional code of "TDI". The Rep said their wrench was accurate up to 3.5%.
Brownline Torque Wrench
.
(09-20-2011, 09:14 AM)winmutt ..
I bought the HF version of this for $29 last night. Its minimum is 40NM but I was able to verify that my HF click torque wrench is under 4% of error at 40NM. I was VERY surprised
Very similar to the Powerbuilt unit I posted.
http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-tor...68283.html
4% error on your clicker is good in my book. You'll need to test the HF wrench out in the higher range which I bet you'll find a bigger error like I found. After testing my buddy's wrench, I did some research and found most people are saying the HF clicker wrenches last only for a few uses and the calibration goes off. The calibration companies don't want to calibrate them because they are not worth it. So they are consider a couple time use throw away wrench.
.
.
(09-19-2011, 06:23 PM)dieselboy .. I have a few cool special tools for larger diesels. Rocker arm tools for a ism, isb wood dowels to hold the lifters up when pulling a cam, special wrenches, dummy sensors,
Any pics or descriptions of what they are for and how to use them?
,
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
09-20-2011, 03:06 PM
#12
Ed
yankneck696
09-20-2011, 03:06 PM #12I really like the new Irwin brnd of Channel locks. They hve a button on the side for quick adjustment. Check them out at Homo Depot...
Ed
09-20-2011, 07:01 PM
#13
(09-18-2011, 09:40 AM)DeliveryValve This sounds like a similar tool jhunt253 created to remove the pre-chambers on his '95 E300. E300TSC saw it and posted pictures over at peachparts. Hopefully one or the other would do the same here. That tool is really slick.
Here, I copied the test of the other post...
First the pre-chamber ring is removed:
![[Image: SANY0442.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/Hydraulic%20GP%20removal/SANY0442.jpg)
![[Image: SANY0443.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/Hydraulic%20GP%20removal/SANY0443.jpg)
Next, the pre-chamber puller is installed:
![[Image: SANY0435.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/Hydraulic%20GP%20removal/SANY0435.jpg)
![[Image: SANY0438.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/Hydraulic%20GP%20removal/SANY0438.jpg)
The original design puller makes it easy to crank them out:
![[Image: SANY0440.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/Hydraulic%20GP%20removal/SANY0440.jpg)
![[Image: SANY0441.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/Hydraulic%20GP%20removal/SANY0441.jpg)
Next, the pre-chamber pocket in the head is plugged with this Delryn plug and honed a few seconds with a brake cylinder hone to ensure a smooth finish and seal:
![[Image: SANY0451.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/Hydraulic%20GP%20removal/SANY0451.jpg)
![[Image: SANY0449.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/Hydraulic%20GP%20removal/SANY0449.jpg)
The custom made hydraulic fitting is then inserted into the head:
![[Image: SANY0436.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/Hydraulic%20GP%20removal/SANY0436.jpg)
![[Image: SANY0446.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/Hydraulic%20GP%20removal/SANY0446.jpg)
The pressure is pumped up to around 2000 PSI with a modified injector pop tester filled with oil.
![[Image: SANY0447.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/Hydraulic%20GP%20removal/SANY0447.jpg)
After a turn of the glowplug, it slides right out!
![[Image: SANY0448.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/kartek/Mercedes/Hydraulic%20GP%20removal/SANY0448.jpg)
The tool can also be pumped up and left for a period of time and the glowplugs will literally push out by themselves.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
(09-18-2011, 09:40 AM)DeliveryValve This sounds like a similar tool jhunt253 created to remove the pre-chambers on his '95 E300. E300TSC saw it and posted pictures over at peachparts. Hopefully one or the other would do the same here. That tool is really slick.
Here, I copied the test of the other post...
First the pre-chamber ring is removed:
Next, the pre-chamber puller is installed:
The original design puller makes it easy to crank them out:
Next, the pre-chamber pocket in the head is plugged with this Delryn plug and honed a few seconds with a brake cylinder hone to ensure a smooth finish and seal:
The custom made hydraulic fitting is then inserted into the head:
The pressure is pumped up to around 2000 PSI with a modified injector pop tester filled with oil.
After a turn of the glowplug, it slides right out!
The tool can also be pumped up and left for a period of time and the glowplugs will literally push out by themselves.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
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