A rod in my rear view mirror...
A rod in my rear view mirror...
05-14-2012, 04:14 PM
#1
Yesterday, finished mounting, i took a test drive.. the clamps wouldnt hold 2,5 bars of pressure and it blew off.. aaah whattahell, i thought and took the 3 hour drive home...
Everything sounded and felt good.. Came from wrk 2day, fixed the plumbing and took a drive... another hose blew off, but this time, it sounded like the timing in the pump had retracted/progressed... It idled nasty/&hard.. I didnt think it was that bad, since it didnt knack when i gave it 1/3 throttle....
On my way home, BANG...
The fourth cylinder threw a fucking rod out
Right behind the injection pump...How? What happened?
My brand new 8mm pump, had gotten a harsh ride from finland, and the original alda had to be fiddled with to get the throttle to move... no biggie i thought...
Yesterday, finished mounting, i took a test drive.. the clamps wouldnt hold 2,5 bars of pressure and it blew off.. aaah whattahell, i thought and took the 3 hour drive home...
Everything sounded and felt good.. Came from wrk 2day, fixed the plumbing and took a drive... another hose blew off, but this time, it sounded like the timing in the pump had retracted/progressed... It idled nasty/&hard.. I didnt think it was that bad, since it didnt knack when i gave it 1/3 throttle....
On my way home, BANG...
The fourth cylinder threw a fucking rod out Right behind the injection pump...
How? What happened?
05-14-2012, 11:17 PM
#2
Mb 1984 w201 om603 swap.
Mb 1986 w201 190E 2.3-16v
Mb 2004 w203 C230k
George3soccer
05-14-2012, 11:17 PM #2Ouch would love to hear how the hell that happened.
Mb 1984 w201 om603 swap.
Mb 1986 w201 190E 2.3-16v
Mb 2004 w203 C230k
05-15-2012, 11:26 PM
#3
when inserting the pump shaft into the timing device did it go in all the way until the pump got to the block and then could you move the timing device a bit back and forth on the shaft?
I think: the spline on the shaft was not correctly in the timing device, you pulled the pump in using the screw (timing device/shaft).
I did this once and damaged the spline which then does not hold the torque and snaps, mine came when decelerating/lifting my foot after acceleration. Horrible nailing at idle, then I checked the timing which was way out. When I removed the pump I had to use a punch to get it out of the timing device. The spline in the timing device was damaged.
I bet this also happened here, the rod is then a result.
You will remember these words when you take out the pump....
Tom
(05-14-2012, 04:14 PM)bad3gakk My brand new 8mm pump, had gotten a harsh ride from finland, and the original alda had to be fiddled with to get the throttle to move... no biggie i thought...
Yesterday, finished mounting, i took a test drive.. the clamps wouldnt hold 2,5 bars of pressure and it blew off.. aaah whattahell, i thought and took the 3 hour drive home...
Everything sounded and felt good.. Came from wrk 2day, fixed the plumbing and took a drive... another hose blew off, but this time, it sounded like the timing in the pump had retracted/progressed... It idled nasty/&hard.. I didnt think it was that bad, since it didnt knack when i gave it 1/3 throttle....
On my way home, BANG...
The fourth cylinder threw a fucking rod out
How? What happened?
Hi,
when inserting the pump shaft into the timing device did it go in all the way until the pump got to the block and then could you move the timing device a bit back and forth on the shaft?
I think: the spline on the shaft was not correctly in the timing device, you pulled the pump in using the screw (timing device/shaft).
I did this once and damaged the spline which then does not hold the torque and snaps, mine came when decelerating/lifting my foot after acceleration. Horrible nailing at idle, then I checked the timing which was way out. When I removed the pump I had to use a punch to get it out of the timing device. The spline in the timing device was damaged.
I bet this also happened here, the rod is then a result.
You will remember these words when you take out the pump....
Tom
(05-14-2012, 04:14 PM)bad3gakk My brand new 8mm pump, had gotten a harsh ride from finland, and the original alda had to be fiddled with to get the throttle to move... no biggie i thought...
Yesterday, finished mounting, i took a test drive.. the clamps wouldnt hold 2,5 bars of pressure and it blew off.. aaah whattahell, i thought and took the 3 hour drive home...
Everything sounded and felt good.. Came from wrk 2day, fixed the plumbing and took a drive... another hose blew off, but this time, it sounded like the timing in the pump had retracted/progressed... It idled nasty/&hard.. I didnt think it was that bad, since it didnt knack when i gave it 1/3 throttle....
On my way home, BANG...
The fourth cylinder threw a fucking rod out
How? What happened?
05-16-2012, 06:43 PM
#4
Another theory, is it was "drowned" in diesel, the moment the intake pressure dropped, due to the failure of my clamps on the plumbing between my intercooler and intake manifold... The combustion chamber might have contained so much diesel, so the piston couldnt compress entirely, and the rod bendt and eventually died...
I didnt time the pump myself... But I suspect this to have happened...
Another theory, is it was "drowned" in diesel, the moment the intake pressure dropped, due to the failure of my clamps on the plumbing between my intercooler and intake manifold... The combustion chamber might have contained so much diesel, so the piston couldnt compress entirely, and the rod bendt and eventually died...
05-16-2012, 08:54 PM
#5
(05-16-2012, 06:43 PM)bad3gakk I didnt time the pump myself... But I suspect this to have happened...
Another theory, is it was "drowned" in diesel, the moment the intake pressure dropped, due to the failure of my clamps on the plumbing between my intercooler and intake manifold... The combustion chamber might have contained so much diesel, so the piston couldnt compress entirely, and the rod bendt and eventually died...
Certainly could be. Who built your pump?
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(05-16-2012, 06:43 PM)bad3gakk I didnt time the pump myself... But I suspect this to have happened...
Another theory, is it was "drowned" in diesel, the moment the intake pressure dropped, due to the failure of my clamps on the plumbing between my intercooler and intake manifold... The combustion chamber might have contained so much diesel, so the piston couldnt compress entirely, and the rod bendt and eventually died...
Certainly could be. Who built your pump?
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
05-18-2012, 04:49 AM
#6
(05-16-2012, 06:43 PM)bad3gakk I didnt time the pump myself... But I suspect this to have happened...I don't think that is possible. Even with your BIG pump, you would not be able to inject enough fuel to fuel lock the engine, no matter how much air you gave it(and in your case, didn't give it)
Another theory, is it was "drowned" in diesel, the moment the intake pressure dropped, due to the failure of my clamps on the plumbing between my intercooler and intake manifold... The combustion chamber might have contained so much diesel, so the piston couldnt compress entirely, and the rod bendt and eventually died...
I agree with Tom or it was just a coincidence, the rod was bad and couldn't handle your sodomizing
(05-16-2012, 06:43 PM)bad3gakk I didnt time the pump myself... But I suspect this to have happened...I don't think that is possible. Even with your BIG pump, you would not be able to inject enough fuel to fuel lock the engine, no matter how much air you gave it(and in your case, didn't give it)
Another theory, is it was "drowned" in diesel, the moment the intake pressure dropped, due to the failure of my clamps on the plumbing between my intercooler and intake manifold... The combustion chamber might have contained so much diesel, so the piston couldnt compress entirely, and the rod bendt and eventually died...
I agree with Tom or it was just a coincidence, the rod was bad and couldn't handle your sodomizing
05-18-2012, 09:03 AM
#7
?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
05-18-2012, 09:03 AM #7Will his pump fit a 617 ? ?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
05-18-2012, 09:47 PM
#8
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Don't feel too bad. I got a wrecked 79 300D for parts and got it running, the guy said it probably ran out of oil when he wrecked it, but i thought id try it anyhow. Ran decent for a couple minutes, sounded like it was gonna lock up, so i floored it. Threw a rod where the motor mount bolts on, broke the motor mount into two pieces, it was fun
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
05-20-2012, 09:15 AM
#9
And does not fit a 617..
It probably didnt lock.. But it ignited LONG before it should, because the combustion chambers contains unburned fuel from the last injection sequence... This i think will be a wery unlucky situation for the engine, then revving over 6000rpm :p
Herlevis tractor pulling buildt the pump... 8mm elements, and rebuildt governor weights for max fuel to 7300rpm..
And does not fit a 617..
It probably didnt lock.. But it ignited LONG before it should, because the combustion chambers contains unburned fuel from the last injection sequence... This i think will be a wery unlucky situation for the engine, then revving over 6000rpm :p
05-21-2012, 03:47 AM
#10
(05-20-2012, 09:15 AM)bad3gakk Herlevis tractor pulling buildt the pump... 8mm elements, and rebuildt governor weights for max fuel to 7300rpm..
And does not fit a 617..
It probably didnt lock.. But it ignited LONG before it should, because the combustion chambers contains unburned fuel from the last injection sequence... This i think will be a wery unlucky situation for the engine, then revving over 6000rpm :p
Have you stronger valvesprings? Mine had valvefloat at 6200rpm, and ruin the engine!
EDH_Performance
05-21-2012, 03:47 AM #10(05-20-2012, 09:15 AM)bad3gakk Herlevis tractor pulling buildt the pump... 8mm elements, and rebuildt governor weights for max fuel to 7300rpm..
And does not fit a 617..
It probably didnt lock.. But it ignited LONG before it should, because the combustion chambers contains unburned fuel from the last injection sequence... This i think will be a wery unlucky situation for the engine, then revving over 6000rpm :p
Have you stronger valvesprings? Mine had valvefloat at 6200rpm, and ruin the engine!
05-21-2012, 04:32 AM
#12
(05-21-2012, 04:02 AM)bad3gakk eehh.. ups? I'm pulling the cylinderhead off when i get some time off, to measure and probably replace them... Any ideas of where i can get a hold of some tougher ones? Maybe a set of extra ones to fit inside the ones thats already there?
I will probably recomend you to take a chillpill before you do that
If you have had valvefloat on the om606 engine, you will get a nasty supriseI have a dialog with a Norwegian company that are making some springs for this engine, so i can send you a PM when they are finnished
EDH_Performance
05-21-2012, 04:32 AM #12(05-21-2012, 04:02 AM)bad3gakk eehh.. ups? I'm pulling the cylinderhead off when i get some time off, to measure and probably replace them... Any ideas of where i can get a hold of some tougher ones? Maybe a set of extra ones to fit inside the ones thats already there?
I will probably recomend you to take a chillpill before you do that
If you have had valvefloat on the om606 engine, you will get a nasty supriseI have a dialog with a Norwegian company that are making some springs for this engine, so i can send you a PM when they are finnished
05-21-2012, 11:53 AM
#13
(05-20-2012, 09:15 AM)bad3gakk Herlevis tractor pulling buildt the pump... 8mm elements, and rebuildt governor weights for max fuel to 7300rpm..
And does not fit a 617..
This i think will be a wery unlucky situation for the engine, then revving over 6000rpm :p
Personally, I would say that as the pump will allow the engine to run Well over its designed Max Revs, then a rod-bolt failed and the rest you know....
Rod bolt failed due to the extreme stretching as the piston passes over TDC (At this point--The piston wants to keep Going Up due to Inertia, and the crank wants to pull the piston back Down again!)
--- because it was being run Too Fast for Those Bolts/Studs....
Diesel Pistons are Much Heavier than gasser pistons, so generally the revs are limited at a lower level To Prevent the Rod-Bolts/Nuts/Studs from just snapping/stripping due to the higher stretching forces at high revs as the pistons go over TDC....
![[Image: 300TDnoplate.jpg]](http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z128/alastairhcii/300TDnoplate.jpg)
Alastair E
05-21-2012, 11:53 AM #13(05-20-2012, 09:15 AM)bad3gakk Herlevis tractor pulling buildt the pump... 8mm elements, and rebuildt governor weights for max fuel to 7300rpm..
And does not fit a 617..
This i think will be a wery unlucky situation for the engine, then revving over 6000rpm :p
Personally, I would say that as the pump will allow the engine to run Well over its designed Max Revs, then a rod-bolt failed and the rest you know....
Rod bolt failed due to the extreme stretching as the piston passes over TDC (At this point--The piston wants to keep Going Up due to Inertia, and the crank wants to pull the piston back Down again!)
--- because it was being run Too Fast for Those Bolts/Studs....
Diesel Pistons are Much Heavier than gasser pistons, so generally the revs are limited at a lower level To Prevent the Rod-Bolts/Nuts/Studs from just snapping/stripping due to the higher stretching forces at high revs as the pistons go over TDC....
05-21-2012, 02:10 PM
#14
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
05-21-2012, 02:10 PM #14In a gas engine the explosion starts before TDC to help the piston change direction
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
05-21-2012, 03:43 PM
#16
(05-21-2012, 04:32 AM)EDH_Performance(05-21-2012, 04:02 AM)bad3gakk eehh.. ups? I'm pulling the cylinderhead off when i get some time off, to measure and probably replace them... Any ideas of where i can get a hold of some tougher ones? Maybe a set of extra ones to fit inside the ones thats already there?
I will probably recomend you to take a chillpill before you do that
I have a dialog with a Norwegian company that are making some springs for this engine, so i can send you a PM when they are finnished
I wount touch this engine.. I have a spare one with some failed crank bearings, ill replace the crank, bearings, pistons and rods, and use this... Ill be waiting to hear from you about the springs
The bolts in the piston and rod is fine... the rod itself is not...
Heaps of folks have been revving the merc DOCH diesels past 7000rpm for a long time, it doesnt seem to break them, but if everything else isnt 100%....its probably just a matter of time..
(05-21-2012, 04:32 AM)EDH_Performance(05-21-2012, 04:02 AM)bad3gakk eehh.. ups? I'm pulling the cylinderhead off when i get some time off, to measure and probably replace them... Any ideas of where i can get a hold of some tougher ones? Maybe a set of extra ones to fit inside the ones thats already there?
I will probably recomend you to take a chillpill before you do that
I have a dialog with a Norwegian company that are making some springs for this engine, so i can send you a PM when they are finnished
I wount touch this engine.. I have a spare one with some failed crank bearings, ill replace the crank, bearings, pistons and rods, and use this... Ill be waiting to hear from you about the springs
The bolts in the piston and rod is fine... the rod itself is not...
Heaps of folks have been revving the merc DOCH diesels past 7000rpm for a long time, it doesnt seem to break them, but if everything else isnt 100%....its probably just a matter of time..
05-22-2012, 07:32 AM
#17
dieselmerc
05-22-2012, 07:32 AM #17i think that problably due to much knocking the pump where "changed" to alot of preegnition and it ignited to early and the rod bend, remember to have a GOOD performance oil and change very ofthen( it is now a high performance engine and not an old tired diesel) and the soot dripps down to the oil pan and mess upp the engine oil so maximum 1000km per oil change do i recommend
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