Poll: Number of MW owners vrs M owners who want a modded IP
Poll: Number of MW owners vrs M owners who want a modded IP
Poll: MW-IP modd or M-IP modd
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MW
M
05-22-2013, 06:04 PM
#201
(05-21-2013, 04:25 PM)poleshady I read that document and took a look at the IP, how do you guys manage to make all those changes to the tuning and get your hands in there with the oil filter in the way, or do you all have a remote oil filter already?
It is tight on a 617, and if you do not know what you are feeling for and have the right special tools to loosen and or adjust with, it can be impossible to be confident about what you are doing.
I can fumble around in there, but I know what I am feeling for, (seeing with your finger tips), and be confident I am on the correct part.
Take your time, get a good mirror so once you get the back off you can look inside and see where everything is. It will be all black in there so a good light is a must.
Don't be afraid to ask questions either...
(05-21-2013, 04:25 PM)poleshady I read that document and took a look at the IP, how do you guys manage to make all those changes to the tuning and get your hands in there with the oil filter in the way, or do you all have a remote oil filter already?
It is tight on a 617, and if you do not know what you are feeling for and have the right special tools to loosen and or adjust with, it can be impossible to be confident about what you are doing.
I can fumble around in there, but I know what I am feeling for, (seeing with your finger tips), and be confident I am on the correct part.
Take your time, get a good mirror so once you get the back off you can look inside and see where everything is. It will be all black in there so a good light is a must.
Don't be afraid to ask questions either...
05-24-2013, 12:25 PM
#204
(05-21-2013, 04:25 PM)poleshady I read that document and took a look at the IP, how do you guys manage to make all those changes to the tuning and get your hands in there with the oil filter in the way, or do you all have a remote oil filter already?
Remove oil filter housing, remove pump, make adjustments, put it back together, repeat. Kind of a long process
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
05-24-2013, 12:25 PM #204(05-21-2013, 04:25 PM)poleshady I read that document and took a look at the IP, how do you guys manage to make all those changes to the tuning and get your hands in there with the oil filter in the way, or do you all have a remote oil filter already?
Remove oil filter housing, remove pump, make adjustments, put it back together, repeat. Kind of a long process
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
05-24-2013, 02:03 PM
#205
(05-24-2013, 12:12 PM)poleshady Do you have estimates of what it costs to have custom oil lines made for the remote oil filter
If you get weld on fittings for the stock cooler, theyre ~$8 ea IIRC... you want AN-10 and have a competent welder TIG them for you, likely $30 or less for that end... for the blockoff plate, you need a 1/2 NPT fitting that has -10 on the other end (if turbo, you need a tee fitting with another smaller outlet on the oil return to the block, I used a -6 feed for mine). Again, likely sub $10 range. The real bulk cost is in the reusable 90* or 45* fittings, those can approach $30-40 each for a known brand, you can get cheaper ones, but I wouldnt trust 'em on such a critical system my self...
And you'll need 4 of those expensive fittings between oil cooler and filter and another 4 (between filter and block/adapter...pay attention to the angles near the back of the IP when choosing fittings, I have a cool shop that lets me trade if I grab the wrong ones, but only in uninstalled condition. If I were to do it again (likely have block out) I would just tap the applicable ports on the block and thread the 1/2 NPT adapters directly to the block ports for hot oil out and cool oil in and make a blockoff/dust shield for the other holes.
The hose is about $10 of foot depending on what you get. Using a stock oil cooler will same you some money here, I'd recommend against stainless braided lines and use the nylon brainded cover hose to increase your flexibility.
If youre running a stock oil filter housing remote mounted, youll also likely need to grab a spare set of the fittings from a junker and get the matching thread fittings with -10 on the other end. I keep forgetting to figure out what part numbers I used for all this shite...
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
05-24-2013, 02:03 PM #205(05-24-2013, 12:12 PM)poleshady Do you have estimates of what it costs to have custom oil lines made for the remote oil filter
If you get weld on fittings for the stock cooler, theyre ~$8 ea IIRC... you want AN-10 and have a competent welder TIG them for you, likely $30 or less for that end... for the blockoff plate, you need a 1/2 NPT fitting that has -10 on the other end (if turbo, you need a tee fitting with another smaller outlet on the oil return to the block, I used a -6 feed for mine). Again, likely sub $10 range. The real bulk cost is in the reusable 90* or 45* fittings, those can approach $30-40 each for a known brand, you can get cheaper ones, but I wouldnt trust 'em on such a critical system my self...
And you'll need 4 of those expensive fittings between oil cooler and filter and another 4 (between filter and block/adapter...pay attention to the angles near the back of the IP when choosing fittings, I have a cool shop that lets me trade if I grab the wrong ones, but only in uninstalled condition. If I were to do it again (likely have block out) I would just tap the applicable ports on the block and thread the 1/2 NPT adapters directly to the block ports for hot oil out and cool oil in and make a blockoff/dust shield for the other holes.
The hose is about $10 of foot depending on what you get. Using a stock oil cooler will same you some money here, I'd recommend against stainless braided lines and use the nylon brainded cover hose to increase your flexibility.
If youre running a stock oil filter housing remote mounted, youll also likely need to grab a spare set of the fittings from a junker and get the matching thread fittings with -10 on the other end. I keep forgetting to figure out what part numbers I used for all this shite...
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
05-29-2013, 04:11 PM
#206
The collar is much wider and there is a small flat ground in it at one spot. I am marginally concerned that with the lower idle quantities this flat will make the engine lope a bit, but I won't know until I run them. If they do lope, I will have to try other ones...
The new delivery valves arrived today, and from the looks of them, I think they should work better than the last ones I used in combination with 10mm elements.
The collar is much wider and there is a small flat ground in it at one spot. I am marginally concerned that with the lower idle quantities this flat will make the engine lope a bit, but I won't know until I run them. If they do lope, I will have to try other ones...
06-01-2013, 05:42 PM
#207
(05-29-2013, 04:11 PM)OM616 The new delivery valves arrived today, and from the looks of them, I think they should work better than the last ones I used in combination with 10mm elements.
The collar is much wider and there is a small flat ground in it at one spot. I am marginally concerned that with the lower idle quantities this flat will make the engine lope a bit, but I won't know until I run them. If they do lope, I will have to try other ones...
Or let it lope and confuse people lol
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
06-01-2013, 05:42 PM #207(05-29-2013, 04:11 PM)OM616 The new delivery valves arrived today, and from the looks of them, I think they should work better than the last ones I used in combination with 10mm elements.
The collar is much wider and there is a small flat ground in it at one spot. I am marginally concerned that with the lower idle quantities this flat will make the engine lope a bit, but I won't know until I run them. If they do lope, I will have to try other ones...
Or let it lope and confuse people lol
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
06-05-2013, 03:31 PM
#209
I thought I would see if there was any interest in it before I tried to get more info on it.
I would have no responsibility for this pump, I am only offering to broker it so to speak for a friend if he is good with that.
I might have a line on a 10mm MW for a 617a, it is missing the DVs and the DV holders I guess. I have no idea what elements are in it either, (I did not build it).
I thought I would see if there was any interest in it before I tried to get more info on it.
I would have no responsibility for this pump, I am only offering to broker it so to speak for a friend if he is good with that.
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