Injection pump tools.
Injection pump tools.
However. This is the 'basket' required for holding the pump timing pulley in place on a 606.962 and 606.910 when the IP is removed. Only one of three lugs shown for clarity.
![[Image: basket003_zps59dbc202.jpg]](http://s62.photobucket.com/user/a10ruk/media/Pump%20Basket/basket003_zps59dbc202.jpg.html)
Basic materials are ID 80mm x L 50mm pipe with wall thickness approx 2mm - 3mm and squared off on at least one end. The ID is what holds the pulley.
3 pcs of (suggest) 18mm x 3mm and approx L 30mm flatbar with 7mm hole @ one end. Length is dependant on pipe wall.
Offer pipe up to pulley and hold in place. Bolt each piece of flatbar to a vacuum pump bolthole equidistant round the pipe and tack weld.
This is an OEM basket. There is no need, as far as I can determine, for the cut-outs in the side. It's only there to hold a pulley from dropping.
![[Image: basket001_zps2cd918e5.jpg]](http://s62.photobucket.com/user/a10ruk/media/Pump%20Basket/basket001_zps2cd918e5.jpg.html)
And inverted....
![[Image: basket002_zps8358cbf6.jpg]](http://s62.photobucket.com/user/a10ruk/media/Pump%20Basket/basket002_zps8358cbf6.jpg.html)
.Also required is the IP locking tool. There is no real need for the complicated spring and circlip engineering nor the threaded nut which secures the OEM version to the IP. The 11mm dia rod is self-supported by the hole in the IP. This tool simply determines and locks the IP in the correct timing position.
![[Image: basket005_zps6bee8ee4.jpg]](http://s62.photobucket.com/user/a10ruk/media/Pump%20Basket/basket005_zps6bee8ee4.jpg.html)
The 11mm diameter might have to be relieved by a fraction to enter the hole in the IP. Mine calipered at 10.98mm DOH!. The 2mm slot however does have to be dead-on the centerline on the face end otherwise the timing will be wrong.
![[Image: basket006_zps1e79ef41.jpg]](http://s62.photobucket.com/user/a10ruk/media/Pump%20Basket/basket006_zps1e79ef41.jpg.html)
.
Please excuse my drawings. Not what you might call machineshop standard.
However. This is the 'basket' required for holding the pump timing pulley in place on a 606.962 and 606.910 when the IP is removed. Only one of three lugs shown for clarity.
Basic materials are ID 80mm x L 50mm pipe with wall thickness approx 2mm - 3mm and squared off on at least one end. The ID is what holds the pulley.
3 pcs of (suggest) 18mm x 3mm and approx L 30mm flatbar with 7mm hole @ one end. Length is dependant on pipe wall.
Offer pipe up to pulley and hold in place. Bolt each piece of flatbar to a vacuum pump bolthole equidistant round the pipe and tack weld.
This is an OEM basket. There is no need, as far as I can determine, for the cut-outs in the side. It's only there to hold a pulley from dropping.
And inverted....
.
Also required is the IP locking tool. There is no real need for the complicated spring and circlip engineering nor the threaded nut which secures the OEM version to the IP. The 11mm dia rod is self-supported by the hole in the IP. This tool simply determines and locks the IP in the correct timing position.
The 11mm diameter might have to be relieved by a fraction to enter the hole in the IP. Mine calipered at 10.98mm DOH!. The 2mm slot however does have to be dead-on the centerline on the face end otherwise the timing will be wrong.
.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
09-20-2013, 09:02 PM #2Thank you. When I get some free time I'll make up pretty drawings and post back.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(09-20-2013, 10:07 AM)Druk Please excuse my drawings. Not what you might call machineshop standard.This information is solid gold.
However. This is the 'basket' required for holding the pump timing pulley in place on a 606.962 and 606.910 when the IP is removed. Only one of three lugs shown for clarity.
Basic materials are ID 80mm x L 50mm pipe with wall thickness approx 2mm - 3mm and squared off on at least one end. The ID is what holds the pulley.
3 pcs of (suggest) 18mm x 3mm and approx L 30mm flatbar with 7mm hole @ one end. Length is dependant on pipe wall.
Offer pipe up to pulley and hold in place. Bolt each piece of flatbar to a vacuum pump bolthole equidistant round the pipe and tack weld.
This is an OEM basket. There is no need, as far as I can determine, for the cut-outs in the side. It's only there to hold a pulley from dropping.
And inverted....
.
Also required is the IP locking tool. There is no real need for the complicated spring and circlip engineering nor the threaded nut which secures the OEM version to the IP. The 11mm dia rod is self-supported by the hole in the IP. This tool simply determines and locks the IP in the correct timing position.
The 11mm diameter might have to be relieved by a fraction to enter the hole in the IP. Mine calipered at 10.98mm DOH!. The 2mm slot however does have to be dead-on the centerline on the face end otherwise the timing will be wrong.
.
Thankyou druk.
Max
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
maxypriest
09-22-2013, 12:54 PM #3(09-20-2013, 10:07 AM)Druk Please excuse my drawings. Not what you might call machineshop standard.This information is solid gold.
However. This is the 'basket' required for holding the pump timing pulley in place on a 606.962 and 606.910 when the IP is removed. Only one of three lugs shown for clarity.
Basic materials are ID 80mm x L 50mm pipe with wall thickness approx 2mm - 3mm and squared off on at least one end. The ID is what holds the pulley.
3 pcs of (suggest) 18mm x 3mm and approx L 30mm flatbar with 7mm hole @ one end. Length is dependant on pipe wall.
Offer pipe up to pulley and hold in place. Bolt each piece of flatbar to a vacuum pump bolthole equidistant round the pipe and tack weld.
This is an OEM basket. There is no need, as far as I can determine, for the cut-outs in the side. It's only there to hold a pulley from dropping.
And inverted....
Also required is the IP locking tool. There is no real need for the complicated spring and circlip engineering nor the threaded nut which secures the OEM version to the IP. The 11mm dia rod is self-supported by the hole in the IP. This tool simply determines and locks the IP in the correct timing position.
The 11mm diameter might have to be relieved by a fraction to enter the hole in the IP. Mine calipered at 10.98mm DOH!. The 2mm slot however does have to be dead-on the centerline on the face end otherwise the timing will be wrong.
.
Thankyou druk.
Max
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
Image and video hosting sites are blocked here at work. I can't see any of it, yet.
Even without seeing it, Thank You!
***********************************************
1993 300D 2.5L turbo. W124.128 2.5L 602.962
1991 350SD W126.134 Transplanted a 3.0L 603.961 into it.
Dang, I knew I needed to take a look at this over the weekend and never had time.
Image and video hosting sites are blocked here at work. I can't see any of it, yet.
Even without seeing it, Thank You!
***********************************************
1993 300D 2.5L turbo. W124.128 2.5L 602.962
1991 350SD W126.134 Transplanted a 3.0L 603.961 into it.
(09-23-2013, 03:41 PM)hooblah Thanks Derek!
How necessary is this 'basket' when fitting/removing an IP?
Do you have a mercedes part number and how much are they?
Two years ago they were 0.82pence. When I last enquired they were well over £120. Someone in Sindelfingen has twigged. They are a must have before you take the pump out otherwise the timing sprocket and chain drop inside the timing case. Do you still want the part number cos I can get it tomorrow from my tool store.
(09-23-2013, 03:41 PM)hooblah Thanks Derek!
How necessary is this 'basket' when fitting/removing an IP?
Do you have a mercedes part number and how much are they?
Two years ago they were 0.82pence. When I last enquired they were well over £120. Someone in Sindelfingen has twigged. They are a must have before you take the pump out otherwise the timing sprocket and chain drop inside the timing case. Do you still want the part number cos I can get it tomorrow from my tool store.
Part number on IP locking tool... 601 589 05 21 00
Wouldn't make any difference if the engine was out or in, the timing wheel's still going to fall into the front case if it's not secured somehow. Friend on here did suggest that he has stuffed rags around the timing wheel in the past to hold it in position but that would be your choice. OK for someone who knows exactly what they're doing but not something I would say to do if you're not absolutely certain of what you're at.
Part number on basket...601 589 05 14 00
Part number on IP locking tool... 601 589 05 21 00
Wouldn't make any difference if the engine was out or in, the timing wheel's still going to fall into the front case if it's not secured somehow. Friend on here did suggest that he has stuffed rags around the timing wheel in the past to hold it in position but that would be your choice. OK for someone who knows exactly what they're doing but not something I would say to do if you're not absolutely certain of what you're at.
Thank you very much. That's all I should need to make one if/when the need arises.
***********************************************
1993 300D 2.5L turbo. W124.128 2.5L 602.962
1991 350SD W126.134 Transplanted a 3.0L 603.961 into it.
I did get a good look at (and saved) the sketch and pictures of the basket.
Thank you very much. That's all I should need to make one if/when the need arises.
***********************************************
1993 300D 2.5L turbo. W124.128 2.5L 602.962
1991 350SD W126.134 Transplanted a 3.0L 603.961 into it.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
It's not a stupid question. In fact IIRC the manual says that its unlikely to happen. Whats the worst case scenario? Rolling in a new chain?
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
Mounting the pump again I just put my finger in the hole and stretch the chain. And the ip would simply slide in place.
I mounted my ip without basket. It actually was there, but I've removed it. I thought in needed to do this for access to the sprocket. It just stayed in place and didn't fall down. When
Mounting the pump again I just put my finger in the hole and stretch the chain. And the ip would simply slide in place.
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