US spec 123 bumper mod, removing all rubber end trim
US spec 123 bumper mod, removing all rubber end trim
09-26-2013, 07:35 AM
#1
I gave the car to a trusted body guy who is working on a plan for me regarding the rubber bumper ends-
It is my opinion that all the rust that kills the front and rear fenders on 123 chassis (outside of wheel well rot) comes from the rubber bumper ends bracketry, which has a crappy finish, rusts, and transfers rust into the body.
Example-
Perfectly good fender sandwiched against a piece of rusty garbage, added bonus is the bracket also traps debris to accelerate rust-
looks ok from 20 feet-
![[Image: new240.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/new240.jpg.html)
but behind the bumper-
![[Image: 020_zps75ebe6c7.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/020_zps75ebe6c7.jpg.html)
debris and rust against the fender-
![[Image: 006_zpsc2d1377f.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/006_zpsc2d1377f.jpg.html)
telltale signs of damage from this situation-
![[Image: 017_zps5e269a5e.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/017_zps5e269a5e.jpg.html)
![[Image: 019_zpsea52b980.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/019_zpsea52b980.jpg.html)
The rot starts around the holes, and travels down the fender seam, and end result is the fender is in a bad way.
Here is how bad the damage actually turned out to be-
rear-
![[Image: 012_zps12e168e1.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/012_zps12e168e1.jpg.html)
rear rubber trim bracket-
![[Image: 007_zps654f159f.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/007_zps654f159f.jpg.html)
![[Image: 008_zps904e315e.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/008_zps904e315e.jpg.html)
transferred rust from that piece of crap trim bracket-
![[Image: 009_zpsbc147780.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/009_zpsbc147780.jpg.html)
fronts-
![[Image: 021_zps1ca58b96.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/021_zps1ca58b96.jpg.html)
I didn't want to repair it in the same way as the stock situation, as the same sort of rust would just begin again since I use this thing year round, so my intended solution is to make each bumper, including end treatments, attach only via the 6 bolts in front and 6 in rear.
The plan is to modify the fenders and bumpers themselves, either by shaving down or moving mounts on the bumper and changing the fenders to make just the fender alone look good without the rubber crap on it.
with that in mind, I started to have the front fenders repaired, and instead of rebuilding the mount location, I requested a smooth fill that continues the lines of the fender.
Here is how that is progressing-
rust repair on driver and passenger, and stock arrangement as comparison
stock-
![[Image: 0026_zps445bd548.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/0026_zps445bd548.jpg.html)
changed-
![[Image: 0043_zps2f9b2423.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/0043_zps2f9b2423.jpg.html)
![[Image: 0052_zps8e85ec18.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/0052_zps8e85ec18.jpg.html)
^^^ this required a slight change to the support structure of the fender itself, there is a bracket on the back side that has to be modified, but its a part of the fender, and was an easy cut.
Driver front primed, all the bolt holes to hold on the rubber brackets have been filled as well-
![[Image: 0013_zps7948b413.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/0013_zps7948b413.jpg.html)
This is where im at now, the rear fenders are going to get the same treatment, but its more of just filling a number of holes instead of any shape change.
Once this is done, I can begin refitting the bumpers themselves
This post was last modified: 09-26-2013, 07:42 AM by JB3.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
For the last couple weeks ive been trying to resolve some of the rust issues on my DD 240 sedan. The car is not too bad, but needs floor pan repair, and fender work.
I gave the car to a trusted body guy who is working on a plan for me regarding the rubber bumper ends-
It is my opinion that all the rust that kills the front and rear fenders on 123 chassis (outside of wheel well rot) comes from the rubber bumper ends bracketry, which has a crappy finish, rusts, and transfers rust into the body.
Example-
Perfectly good fender sandwiched against a piece of rusty garbage, added bonus is the bracket also traps debris to accelerate rust-
looks ok from 20 feet-
but behind the bumper-
debris and rust against the fender-
telltale signs of damage from this situation-
The rot starts around the holes, and travels down the fender seam, and end result is the fender is in a bad way.
Here is how bad the damage actually turned out to be-
rear-
rear rubber trim bracket-
transferred rust from that piece of crap trim bracket-
fronts-
I didn't want to repair it in the same way as the stock situation, as the same sort of rust would just begin again since I use this thing year round, so my intended solution is to make each bumper, including end treatments, attach only via the 6 bolts in front and 6 in rear.
The plan is to modify the fenders and bumpers themselves, either by shaving down or moving mounts on the bumper and changing the fenders to make just the fender alone look good without the rubber crap on it.
with that in mind, I started to have the front fenders repaired, and instead of rebuilding the mount location, I requested a smooth fill that continues the lines of the fender.
Here is how that is progressing-
rust repair on driver and passenger, and stock arrangement as comparison
stock-
changed-
^^^ this required a slight change to the support structure of the fender itself, there is a bracket on the back side that has to be modified, but its a part of the fender, and was an easy cut.
Driver front primed, all the bolt holes to hold on the rubber brackets have been filled as well-
This is where im at now, the rear fenders are going to get the same treatment, but its more of just filling a number of holes instead of any shape change.
Once this is done, I can begin refitting the bumpers themselves
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
09-26-2013, 12:02 PM
#2
Looking at your car, I now wonder if you can do a plastic covered bumper and how it would look like. That is using an appropriate bumper to cover up.
Now of course that will not solve your minimal attached parts to prevent rust to the sheet metal issue by adding more attachment points.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
09-26-2013, 12:02 PM #2Beautiful job on the welding and on the finish product.
Looking at your car, I now wonder if you can do a plastic covered bumper and how it would look like. That is using an appropriate bumper to cover up.
Now of course that will not solve your minimal attached parts to prevent rust to the sheet metal issue by adding more attachment points.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
09-28-2013, 12:58 PM
#3
82 300SD-this engine may go in the 78...-Mary Jane
78 300CD-may be getting a new engine and rear end...-Brunhilde
82 300CD-uhhh race car project???-Gerda
85 300SD- the womans daily ITS F**KING PINK!-Tsybil
92 F350 CC LB dually-back up/tow pig/long haul land yacht.-Betsey
![[Image: PicMonkeyCollage_zpsc1d9cd5f.jpg]](http://s1272.photobucket.com/user/1911diesel/media/PicMonkeyCollage_zpsc1d9cd5f.jpg.html)
1911diesel
09-28-2013, 12:58 PM #3hummm, i have thought about this since i pulled the bumpers off of my 82 coupe. Looking at the bumpers off of the car, i think i want to cut them down to look like old vw bumpers, and cut the mounting brackets way down to tuck the bumper closer to the car and delete the rubber trim. ill see if i cant get some pics of the bumpers and have the woman photo shop them for me tonight so you can see what im talking about. but i think its a great idea! maybe if your idea looks better then what i had in my head i might borrow it! lol
82 300SD-this engine may go in the 78...-Mary Jane
78 300CD-may be getting a new engine and rear end...-Brunhilde
82 300CD-uhhh race car project???-Gerda
85 300SD- the womans daily ITS F**KING PINK!-Tsybil
92 F350 CC LB dually-back up/tow pig/long haul land yacht.-Betsey
09-28-2013, 02:32 PM
#4
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
09-28-2013, 02:32 PM #4I think if one were to remove the rubber end caps and weld extra material to the bumper so it wrapped around on either side that might look pretty good
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
09-30-2013, 11:18 AM
#5
(09-26-2013, 12:02 PM)DeliveryValve Beautiful job on the welding and on the finish product.
Looking at your car, I now wonder if you can do a plastic covered bumper and how it would look like. That is using an appropriate bumper to cover up.
Now of course that will not solve your minimal attached parts to prevent rust to the sheet metal issue by adding more attachment points.
the guy is definitely a body man of the old school. I assumed the fenders were junk and he just said "why? cheaper to save them, lets weld in some steel" then he whipped up some replacement steel patches on the ol english wheel.
you want me to drill new holes in my repaired fenders?? heresy
(although a newer bumper skin might be interesting)
(09-28-2013, 12:58 PM)1911diesel hummm, i have thought about this since i pulled the bumpers off of my 82 coupe. Looking at the bumpers off of the car, i think i want to cut them down to look like old vw bumpers, and cut the mounting brackets way down to tuck the bumper closer to the car and delete the rubber trim. ill see if i cant get some pics of the bumpers and have the woman photo shop them for me tonight so you can see what im talking about. but i think its a great idea! maybe if your idea looks better then what i had in my head i might borrow it! lol
I haven't had as much play time with the front bumper before I handed the car over for body work, but on the rear thats definitely my goal after looking at it. One thing that struck me, is that if the US spec bumper was 2-3 inches shorter in length, the curve of the bumper actually exactly follows the curve of the body when it comes to the corner area. It would look spectacular if it was just a bit shorter. Im also sliding in the rear bumper a couple inches the same way you are thinking. I have to remake the mounts anyway as this happened as soon as I touched it-
![[Image: 0012_zps14613688.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/0012_zps14613688.jpg.html)
![[Image: 0042_zps203a4731.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/0042_zps203a4731.jpg.html)
(09-28-2013, 02:32 PM)sassparilla_kid I think if one were to remove the rubber end caps and weld extra material to the bumper so it wrapped around on either side that might look pretty good
I was thinking along these lines as well, especially for the front. The problem for me is construction of the bumper. Anyone have any ideas on the best way to remove chrome electroplating from aluminum? is this a matter where I can peel it off?
This post was last modified: 09-30-2013, 11:25 AM by JB3.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(09-26-2013, 12:02 PM)DeliveryValve Beautiful job on the welding and on the finish product.
Looking at your car, I now wonder if you can do a plastic covered bumper and how it would look like. That is using an appropriate bumper to cover up.
Now of course that will not solve your minimal attached parts to prevent rust to the sheet metal issue by adding more attachment points.
the guy is definitely a body man of the old school. I assumed the fenders were junk and he just said "why? cheaper to save them, lets weld in some steel" then he whipped up some replacement steel patches on the ol english wheel.
you want me to drill new holes in my repaired fenders?? heresy
(although a newer bumper skin might be interesting)
(09-28-2013, 12:58 PM)1911diesel hummm, i have thought about this since i pulled the bumpers off of my 82 coupe. Looking at the bumpers off of the car, i think i want to cut them down to look like old vw bumpers, and cut the mounting brackets way down to tuck the bumper closer to the car and delete the rubber trim. ill see if i cant get some pics of the bumpers and have the woman photo shop them for me tonight so you can see what im talking about. but i think its a great idea! maybe if your idea looks better then what i had in my head i might borrow it! lol
I haven't had as much play time with the front bumper before I handed the car over for body work, but on the rear thats definitely my goal after looking at it. One thing that struck me, is that if the US spec bumper was 2-3 inches shorter in length, the curve of the bumper actually exactly follows the curve of the body when it comes to the corner area. It would look spectacular if it was just a bit shorter. Im also sliding in the rear bumper a couple inches the same way you are thinking. I have to remake the mounts anyway as this happened as soon as I touched it-
(09-28-2013, 02:32 PM)sassparilla_kid I think if one were to remove the rubber end caps and weld extra material to the bumper so it wrapped around on either side that might look pretty good
I was thinking along these lines as well, especially for the front. The problem for me is construction of the bumper. Anyone have any ideas on the best way to remove chrome electroplating from aluminum? is this a matter where I can peel it off?
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
09-30-2013, 05:00 PM
#6
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
09-30-2013, 05:00 PM #6Chrome can be chemically removed by places that do any kind of plating I think
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
09-30-2013, 09:28 PM
#7
You might be able to hammer it off, since the chrome is hard and the aluminum is soft. But then you will have a hammered finish bumper :p
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
09-30-2013, 09:28 PM #7http://lmgtfy.com/?q=removing+chrome+plating
You might be able to hammer it off, since the chrome is hard and the aluminum is soft. But then you will have a hammered finish bumper :p
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
10-02-2013, 07:36 AM
#8
the idea of dropping the bumper in a container full of soda overnight and scraping off the chrome next day is really appealing to me, gotta say.
That link doesn't specific what kind of soda in that method, but Im sure I can research the most acidic type out there. Lots of good ideas in that link
Might do a test on a small ruined chrome piece and see what happens
This post was last modified: 10-02-2013, 07:38 AM by JB3.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
^^^
the idea of dropping the bumper in a container full of soda overnight and scraping off the chrome next day is really appealing to me, gotta say.
That link doesn't specific what kind of soda in that method, but Im sure I can research the most acidic type out there. Lots of good ideas in that link
Might do a test on a small ruined chrome piece and see what happens
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
10-02-2013, 08:10 AM
#9
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
10-02-2013, 08:10 AM #9I know bottom-of-the-barrel packing tape adhesive will eat it too but takes a while
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
10-02-2013, 10:12 AM
#10
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
10-02-2013, 10:12 AM #10My boss told me a story about one time his brother in law was doing some construction at a coca cola bottling plant and while they were there a container of super coke concentrate got spilled, and by the time all of the stuff was gathered to clean up the spill it had already eaten through the concrete floor
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
10-23-2013, 10:26 AM
#11
![[Image: 0072_zpsa9a5478c.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/0072_zpsa9a5478c.jpg.html)
rear screw holes repaired and painted!
![[Image: 0052_zps43a501b1.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/0052_zps43a501b1.jpg.html)
no side holes for rubber trim mounting in the body now, front and rear!
![[Image: 003_zps0fbf2924.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/003_zps0fbf2924.jpg.html)
now to play with the bumpers
here is what the front bumper looks like stock position without rubber-
![[Image: 003_zps1953a63a.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/003_zps1953a63a.jpg.html)
![[Image: 0013_zpseaaa3fa3.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/0013_zpseaaa3fa3.jpg.html)
![[Image: 0042_zps9c18767b.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/0042_zps9c18767b.jpg.html)
I think if I collapse the shocks, I can tuck it in far enough that it will look pretty decent. this thread has all the info I need!
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/Thre...umper-tuck
![[Image: 005_zps16ba3daa.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/005_zps16ba3daa.jpg.html)
Reading on here, I just have to drill through and compress them so all the fluid leaks out, then lock them in place?
This post was last modified: 10-23-2013, 11:05 AM by JB3.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
smoothed fenders painted and finished!
rear screw holes repaired and painted!
no side holes for rubber trim mounting in the body now, front and rear!
now to play with the bumpers
here is what the front bumper looks like stock position without rubber-
I think if I collapse the shocks, I can tuck it in far enough that it will look pretty decent. this thread has all the info I need!
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/Thre...umper-tuck
Reading on here, I just have to drill through and compress them so all the fluid leaks out, then lock them in place?
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
10-23-2013, 11:59 AM
#12
still needs end treatment to look perfect, might look fine without that rubber strip though, but first to play with the rubber ends
![[Image: 020_zps7b93de76.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/020_zps7b93de76.jpg.html)
![[Image: 017_zpsbad9cee7.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/017_zpsbad9cee7.jpg.html)
![[Image: 018_zps3eb067c7.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/018_zps3eb067c7.jpg.html)
This post was last modified: 10-23-2013, 12:00 PM by JB3.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
collapsing the shocks did the trick, looks way better
still needs end treatment to look perfect, might look fine without that rubber strip though, but first to play with the rubber ends
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
10-23-2013, 12:23 PM
#13
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
10-23-2013, 12:23 PM #13After seeing what happened to purplecomputer, I wouldn't collapse the shocks but maybe recess the mounts?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
10-23-2013, 01:21 PM
#14
(10-23-2013, 12:23 PM)Simpler=Better After seeing what happened to purplecomputer, I wouldn't collapse the shocks but maybe recess the mounts?
his accidents are a perfect example of how useless the bumper is anyway IMO honestly, unless you hit another older benz. Most accident pictures from the front people post show the bumper slipping underneath the car in front, headlights, hood, and grill taking the hit.
plus, since this is a NA 240, im more likely to get rear ended.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(10-23-2013, 12:23 PM)Simpler=Better After seeing what happened to purplecomputer, I wouldn't collapse the shocks but maybe recess the mounts?
his accidents are a perfect example of how useless the bumper is anyway IMO honestly, unless you hit another older benz. Most accident pictures from the front people post show the bumper slipping underneath the car in front, headlights, hood, and grill taking the hit.
plus, since this is a NA 240, im more likely to get rear ended.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
10-23-2013, 01:46 PM
#15
(10-23-2013, 01:21 PM)JB3(10-23-2013, 12:23 PM)Simpler=Better After seeing what happened to purplecomputer, I wouldn't collapse the shocks but maybe recess the mounts?
his accidents are a perfect example of how useless the bumper is anyway IMO honestly, unless you hit another older benz. Most accident pictures from the front people post show the bumper slipping underneath the car in front, headlights, hood, and grill taking the hit.
plus, since this is a NA 240, im more likely to get rear ended.
Definitely a possibility sliding under. Don't say I didn't warn you!!!
Also, with the bumper tucked what will you kneel on when working from the front?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
10-23-2013, 01:46 PM #15(10-23-2013, 01:21 PM)JB3(10-23-2013, 12:23 PM)Simpler=Better After seeing what happened to purplecomputer, I wouldn't collapse the shocks but maybe recess the mounts?
his accidents are a perfect example of how useless the bumper is anyway IMO honestly, unless you hit another older benz. Most accident pictures from the front people post show the bumper slipping underneath the car in front, headlights, hood, and grill taking the hit.
plus, since this is a NA 240, im more likely to get rear ended.
Definitely a possibility sliding under. Don't say I didn't warn you!!!
Also, with the bumper tucked what will you kneel on when working from the front?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Purplecomputer
10-23-2013, 01:56 PM #16YOU GUYS TALKIN' BOUT ME?!?!?
bumpers suck. they dont do anything anyway.
10-23-2013, 09:44 PM
#17
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
10-23-2013, 09:44 PM #17We talk about you a lot. Mostly when we're reviewing the surveillance footage.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
10-23-2013, 11:34 PM
#18
Anyways a few weeks ago I did a boneheaded maneuver in my TDI and slid into the rear of a Scion. This is where 5 MPH bumpers did it's job in keeping both cars unscathed. But man it felt like I did a huge amount of damage.
The other day I had the front end off for some maintenance and driveline repairs, I could clearly see the worn off paint on how the shocks were compressed by the impact. I thought it was pretty neat to see that.
.
This post was last modified: 10-23-2013, 11:40 PM by DeliveryValve.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
10-23-2013, 11:34 PM #18I have to agree the front bumpers are useless in rear ending today's type of cars. You would need to reinstall your Moose bar.... but I think it's on lgreeley's car...
Anyways a few weeks ago I did a boneheaded maneuver in my TDI and slid into the rear of a Scion. This is where 5 MPH bumpers did it's job in keeping both cars unscathed. But man it felt like I did a huge amount of damage.
The other day I had the front end off for some maintenance and driveline repairs, I could clearly see the worn off paint on how the shocks were compressed by the impact. I thought it was pretty neat to see that.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
10-24-2013, 11:53 AM
#19
(10-23-2013, 11:34 PM)DeliveryValve I have to agree the front bumpers are useless in rear ending today's type of cars. You would need to reinstall your Moose bar.... but I think it's on lgreeley's car...
Anyways a few weeks ago I did a boneheaded maneuver in my TDI and slid into the rear of a Scion. This is where 5 MPH bumpers did it's job in keeping both cars unscathed. But man it felt like I did a huge amount of damage.
The other day I had the front end off for some maintenance and driveline repairs, I could clearly see the worn off paint on how the shocks were compressed by the impact. I thought it was pretty neat to see that.
.
what did this end up doing to the bumper skin?
incidentally, thats how I intend to mount the rear bumper, bolts top and bottom like that
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(10-23-2013, 11:34 PM)DeliveryValve I have to agree the front bumpers are useless in rear ending today's type of cars. You would need to reinstall your Moose bar.... but I think it's on lgreeley's car...
Anyways a few weeks ago I did a boneheaded maneuver in my TDI and slid into the rear of a Scion. This is where 5 MPH bumpers did it's job in keeping both cars unscathed. But man it felt like I did a huge amount of damage.
The other day I had the front end off for some maintenance and driveline repairs, I could clearly see the worn off paint on how the shocks were compressed by the impact. I thought it was pretty neat to see that.
.
what did this end up doing to the bumper skin?
incidentally, thats how I intend to mount the rear bumper, bolts top and bottom like that
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
10-25-2013, 11:44 AM
#20
I have yet to do it, but a little rubbing compound should clean it up.
Bumper attachment is simple, one large bolt all the way through.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
10-25-2013, 11:44 AM #20Both cars had some abrasions on the bumper skin paint. Luckily no permanent ripples on the plastic. It basically looked like someone parallel parking in a tight city spot.
I have yet to do it, but a little rubbing compound should clean it up.
Bumper attachment is simple, one large bolt all the way through.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
11-03-2013, 04:36 PM
#21
Here is what I did to mount up after that tab was missing-
welded 3/16ths U's to the shocks, and bolted top and bottom
![[Image: 0014_zps152c9da4.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/0014_zps152c9da4.jpg.html)
![[Image: 007_zpsb5ffddb6.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/007_zpsb5ffddb6.jpg.html)
![[Image: 008_zps9d57d1ad.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/008_zps9d57d1ad.jpg.html)
here is how the rear bumper looks sans rubber-
![[Image: 0024_zps1864ec7b.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/0024_zps1864ec7b.jpg.html)
now to work out the bumper ends, or if they are really needed. Might be necessary seeing as how im not tucking this one
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
so ended up attaching the rear bumper. After thinking about it, since this is a 240, id like to retain those shocks I think.
Here is what I did to mount up after that tab was missing-
welded 3/16ths U's to the shocks, and bolted top and bottom
here is how the rear bumper looks sans rubber-
now to work out the bumper ends, or if they are really needed. Might be necessary seeing as how im not tucking this one
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
11-04-2013, 12:23 PM
#22
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
11-04-2013, 12:23 PM #22put the rubber on and just make sure and wash it often
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
11-04-2013, 04:14 PM
#23
(11-04-2013, 12:23 PM)willbhere4u put the rubber on and just make sure and wash it often
I plated over the mount holes in the rear. If I rig up the stock bumper end, its going to have to be fully supported from the bumper.
Ive got some domestic bits coming to play with the ends
Doesn't look bad with no rubber though, here are a few pics-
![[Image: 0016_zps6341917f.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/0016_zps6341917f.jpg.html)
![[Image: 0026_zps7f32f139.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/0026_zps7f32f139.jpg.html)
only looks kinda weird from this angle-
![[Image: 0034_zpsbe790624.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Trishes240/0034_zpsbe790624.jpg.html)
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(11-04-2013, 12:23 PM)willbhere4u put the rubber on and just make sure and wash it often
I plated over the mount holes in the rear. If I rig up the stock bumper end, its going to have to be fully supported from the bumper.
Ive got some domestic bits coming to play with the ends
Doesn't look bad with no rubber though, here are a few pics-
only looks kinda weird from this angle-
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
11-04-2013, 07:11 PM
#24
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
11-04-2013, 07:11 PM #24Doesn't look that bad, my truck had that much gap before it got rearended 500 times
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
11-05-2013, 10:57 AM
#25
This post was last modified: 11-05-2013, 10:58 AM by willbhere4u.
Attached Files
Image(s)1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
11-05-2013, 10:57 AM #25euro bumpers would fix that issue you have already done the hard part filling the old holes
Attached Files
Image(s)1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
11-05-2013, 09:21 PM
#26
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
11-05-2013, 09:21 PM #26I think if you could mount Euro bumpers using the American bumper shocks that would be the cat's pajamas
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
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