The Sleeper -- Part Deux
The Sleeper -- Part Deux
Where'd you snag the front air dam from?
I'm stoked to see the re-paint
(09-09-2013, 09:26 AM)w123love I'm stoked to see the re-paint
(09-09-2013, 09:26 AM)w123love I'm stoked to see the re-paint
Ahh ... Euro Bumpers. A true project.
Here are some snappies of the front Euro 3-piece bumper brackets - front fender corner to bumper. This was a project for me just figuring out what this piece & part # was. Actually, the entire 3 piece Euro bumper quest has been a project. I know the rears was a PITA since one needs a unique bracket from the rear of the car to the bumper AND, and yes AND, one needs these "P" shaped brackets with rubber pads on the rear quarter panel. The "P" shaped brackets and rubber pads are dealer only. I actually cheated a little and did not buy the rubber sleeves which go over the tangs on each bumper end. I need to get those since they are only a few bucks.
As for the fronts ... hold the presses.
One has the 3 piece bumper and a unique bracket for the bumper to the front of the car. Actually, there is the "new" style and "older" style. I had the older style for the rear bumper which I ended up throwing in a rear Euro bumper sale to a PP forum member who sounded like he got screwed in a car buy. My good deed for the month back when I sold the bumper .... (or he played me ... LOL). Again, dealer only parts -- but reasonable.
Back to the front bumper. There are unique fender to bumper end brackets. Here are some snappies. Dealer only buy but the price was not a shell shocker. I was actually pleasantly surprised.
Now, as for the pastic pieces that go on top. I am thinking they are unique. It looks like there is a left side piece, right side piece, and a middle pice which is held in place with plastic rivits. I am thinking that is the top valance make up.
Is that what you have ? As for the rears, I have no idea what goes on top of the 3-piece Euro. I know there is an incredibly small gap, which originally had about a dozen screws holding in place a metal strip and some rubber, but I am thinking the Euro 3-piece had a different set up. Your thoughts please ...
Thanks !
I have this piece-
the one that goes under the US spec bumper, so maybe completely different-
I also have this rubber center strip for the rear without the frame (rusted away), but doesn't the euro bumper not need this piece?
Either way, let me know if you want them. They aren't going back on
Howdy,
I got those front and back bits when I did the swap-a-roo. I am thinking nothing goes on the rear bumper and the front bumper is different. I got the center plastic piece from the US bumper but it looks like a different set up for the 3 peice Euro. Let me check it out again in more detail and post some snappies. Who in the world would think there would be so many variations on the same exact model car. What were the German Engineers thinking ??? LOL
(09-11-2013, 10:06 AM)Greazzer Howdy,
I got those front and back bits when I did the swap-a-roo. I am thinking nothing goes on the rear bumper and the front bumper is different. I got the center plastic piece from the US bumper but it looks like a different set up for the 3 peice Euro. Let me check it out again in more detail and post some snappies. Who in the world would think there would be so many variations on the same exact model car. What were the German Engineers thinking ??? LOL
(09-11-2013, 10:06 AM)Greazzer Howdy,
I got those front and back bits when I did the swap-a-roo. I am thinking nothing goes on the rear bumper and the front bumper is different. I got the center plastic piece from the US bumper but it looks like a different set up for the 3 peice Euro. Let me check it out again in more detail and post some snappies. Who in the world would think there would be so many variations on the same exact model car. What were the German Engineers thinking ??? LOL
On my way to cracking the code with the ELECTRIC WATER PUMP !
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/thread-4906.html
The front clip is almost done. Here are some snappies of the fender with AMG air chin in the background. The jackpoints are now 100%. A little digging and I found about a handful of rusty cornflakes and a fist plus sized collection of bondo. Yuk. The hood is not pictured. Same hood as the one used for the carbon fiber hood. That is down the road. Right now, the goal is get the body 100% perfect. The front clip - firewall foward will be 100% hopefully by next week. I got a rust hole in the rear driver's quarter panel where the water drips from the antenna grommet. Then, two small holes in the floor, and the body is done. Mechanical projects are slowing getting done. Thank Goodness the brutal heat is now gone. Time to tinker in the garage ... LOL
looking good!
that car is quite a bit more of a cream color than I realized from your other pics of it.
If what happens to you mirrors what happened to me when I painted some front fenders on my brown 240 way back, you will very quickly be coming up with reasons why you need to paint the rest of the car.
jack hole repair looks good
I was slacking a little on the MB lately. My Dad was in the ICU for a week, and when he got out it was constant catch up. He's been home for at least a month now, so all is well ... so far.
I still have a handful of injector sets to get out ... BUT, I got some goodies in the mail today.
Here are my custom made plates for the EWP conversion. This is actually Housing 2.0. I temporarily scrapped the idea of a slimmed down version for the OEM with a blocking plate. These are machined precisely and with the tab on them which was my knit-picking. I also got the fittings for the monster 60 plate HE. I am thinking I will tinker this weekend and maybe even mount the HE and relocate the battery to the trunk. That relocation is only temporary since it looks like one can relocate the battery to under the back seat, passanger side. I was totally wrong about that idea. It looks very do-able at this point and I like the idea of the battery under the back seat vs. trunk. I am liking the idea of a neat and clean trunk, with the electric vacuum pump tucked inside the spare tire well. The Sleeper Part Deux is still at the paint shop, but the paint guy does not mind me swinging by and tinkering. We'll see. The car has only been at the paint shop for about two months. LOL.
The machinest is named Donald Neisler, and he runs Reno Machine Works. His email is: sales@renomachineworks.com
He is priced incredibly fair. Period. He spent way too much time on me . His customer service is 100% and is way above and beyond the call of duty. I cannot say enough nice things about his work and the care he took with my screw ball projects. The only problem now is convincing him to do another one of my screw ball projects ... All jokes aside. He's incredibly talented and made it a point to assist in the R&D and he made sure I ended up with the items I was trying to explain to him.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Those parts look good, I'm glad you recognize how much time it takes to make stuff like that...and that he was probably doing you a favor so don't automatically expect a cheap deal when you need something else.
Why the tab?
Also, why the custom fittings? Clearance issues?
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
The housing has an indentation which accomodates the tab. I did not have to do it. Actually, the first run of 5 did not have the tab as it was ground off in the making. I simply got more material and got the ones you see made. It just makes the part "look" custom and it helps with the fit IMO. In reality, I doubt there is any real difference.
The Parkers cost a fortune AND I needed a bunch of reducers to go from 1 1/4 NPT to 3/8" or 3/4". IMO looked pretty crappy. So, I had those made. When everything is said and done, it was still cheaper than the Parkers.
From 8-24-13 until yesterday, 2-2-14, which is around 162 days, or approximately 5 1/2 months, my car was in the paint shop. It's now home.
I am 98% happy with the work. Can't complain alot about the price, but it's the attention to the tiny detail issues which bugs me. I can always fix them myself so not really big deals. PLUS, I am now forced to paint the whole car. The front clip's color is how this car most likely looked when it left Germany. I have a few small patches which have been covered since 1983 for comparison's sake and that color is incredibly close to the front end clip. I like the "new" color alot.
Got my AMG chin proudly showing. Nice, rust free and blemish free hood, fenders, & cowl right now. Working on the grill and bumper, so I can probably drive it around this weekend.
(02-03-2014, 02:20 PM)Greazzer From 8-24-13 until yesterday, 2-2-14, which is around 162 days, or approximately 5 1/2 months, my car was in the paint shop. It's now home.
I am 98% happy with the work. Can't complain alot about the price, but it's the attention to the tiny detail issues which bugs me. I can always fix them myself so not really big deals. PLUS, I am now forced to paint the whole car. The front clip's color is how this car most likely looked when it left Germany. I have a few small patches which have been covered since 1983 for comparison's sake and that color is incredibly close to the front end clip. I like the "new" color alot.
Got my AMG chin proudly showing. Nice, rust free and blemish free hood, fenders, & cowl right now. Working on the grill and bumper, so I can probably drive it around this weekend.
yep you can see the color doesn't match, looks good though
(02-03-2014, 02:20 PM)Greazzer From 8-24-13 until yesterday, 2-2-14, which is around 162 days, or approximately 5 1/2 months, my car was in the paint shop. It's now home.
I am 98% happy with the work. Can't complain alot about the price, but it's the attention to the tiny detail issues which bugs me. I can always fix them myself so not really big deals. PLUS, I am now forced to paint the whole car. The front clip's color is how this car most likely looked when it left Germany. I have a few small patches which have been covered since 1983 for comparison's sake and that color is incredibly close to the front end clip. I like the "new" color alot.
Got my AMG chin proudly showing. Nice, rust free and blemish free hood, fenders, & cowl right now. Working on the grill and bumper, so I can probably drive it around this weekend.
Wow i missed the color, pretty far off. I was too busy drooling on the chin.
My wife, who generally hates my MB hobby even commented on how nice the color is, now nice the new paint is, and mainly, the AMG air chin made the car look sort of "agressive and sexy" ... LOL
(02-03-2014, 09:50 PM)Greazzer My wife, who generally hates my MB hobby even commented on how nice the color is, now nice the new paint is, and mainly, the AMG air chin made the car look sort of "agressive and sexy" ... LOL
(02-03-2014, 09:50 PM)Greazzer My wife, who generally hates my MB hobby even commented on how nice the color is, now nice the new paint is, and mainly, the AMG air chin made the car look sort of "agressive and sexy" ... LOL
(02-03-2014, 09:50 PM)Greazzer My wife, who generally hates my MB hobby even commented on how nice the color is, now nice the new paint is, and mainly, the AMG air chin made the car look sort of "agressive and sexy" ... LOL
That came out really nice!
Slap the bumper and front trim on so we can drool some more! I can't remember, but did you plan on euro lights for this? Feel like with that chin spoiler, would look amazing
(02-03-2014, 09:50 PM)Greazzer My wife, who generally hates my MB hobby even commented on how nice the color is, now nice the new paint is, and mainly, the AMG air chin made the car look sort of "agressive and sexy" ... LOL
Mostly cosmetics this weekend.
I dyed the cowl vent covers and the grill insert. I installed the Euro front bumper brackets (stealership only item) and lights, and I am now ready for the Euro Bumper. Once I get my rubber dye, that will be done.
Instead of a SUPERTURBODIESEL, this project has drifted into a restoration - cosmetic deal. WTF ??
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Not all of our cars need to look like crap and go fast. Yours can be pretty and fast
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Tell us about the dying process. Those cowlings and grill look amazing, I can't believe how well the dye took to those parts. What did you use for dye, how did you prep the surface?
And were did you get though dumb little pins that hold the cowl vent in place?
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Also, you should pull a mold of that chin. I don't think there are too many left
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(02-24-2014, 07:06 AM)lgreeley83 And were did you get though dumb little pins that hold the cowl vent in place?
OK, questions questions.
That is real dye. Not paint. It past the fingernail scratch test. Actually, it really changed the plastic color. It somehow "soaks" in and I could not get it to scratch off except with a screw driver and a gough on the back side. I was incredibly surprised. I bought that stuff at a real car paint shop. I use a chain called "Finish Masters". They matched the dye to the paint. Actually, they were able to do real research and figure out how the color "looked" back in 1983 vs. a faded look of today. The dye was under $50.00 for a pint and it covered the cowl covers, both sides with 3 coats; the grill insert with 3 coats; and I got enough to do the molding. As for application, I bought this disposable spray bottle from Home Depot. Cost under $5.00. It was amazing. Add your paint or dye to a glass bottle and it has a disposable air cartridge. I ended up throwing the whole thing away because my nephew used all the laquer thinner and did not tell anyone. So, I am going with a modified AMG look. I like my chrome but I hate the black plastic and black rubber. I think AMG painted all chrome and molding to match the car color. I am going to be dying the rubber too. That dye comes from Parsol, Inc. from Canada.
The prep for dying was pretty simple. I tried to fit the pieces into the dish washer. Wife went totally balistic. So, I had to wait until she left the house BUT the grill would not fit. So, I prep'd them by hand. Simple green and a toothbruth, about 2-3 cycles of that and hot water (I got a bib to the hot water heater) and then one whole can of non-C brake cleaner. They came out nearly surgically clean. I dyed them on Sunday afternoon before Church. I am thinking the whole process took about one hour. I am not 100% happy with the paint job, but I do like the dying and grill. I have some fine tunning but it's near the 100% solution. I will do the molding this upcoming weekend.
As for the AMG air damm, I found a few on German Ebay, but you're looking at close to $1,000 with shipping and most likely some damage since they all had it. I got mine about 2 years ago at a very, very competive price. Since I am still tinkering with CF, I could make a mold and try to make a CF replica at some point.
(02-24-2014, 07:06 AM)lgreeley83 And were did you get though dumb little pins that hold the cowl vent in place?
Yeah...when I bought my car a cowl was off. I bought a used cowl but have none if those retaining pins. Haven't looked into them very much. But if you have extra :-)
No problems. I think there are three on each side. They just pop in and out.
The seat covers are beautiful. Red leather, with the stink of leather ... Got to fix the 2 holes in my flooor, sound proofing, and in goes the new interior.
Small break in the action today while the wife goes to the store ... I got 30 minutes to tinker ... EZ stuff.
Installed - mock-up of 60 plate HE with custom fittings. Looking for some insulated / thermal material which can be sewn with zipper to make a cover. It fits nicely and I am happy. Also, pleased with the battery under the back seat concept.
Any thoughts from the community on insulated stuff ???
That looks like the same item people use to bring temp down quickly when brewing beer. Not to make this a beer topic....
What brand exchanger is that?
IDK the name. I can look. That HE is used to heat someone's home up to 300,000 BTUs ! LOL. I know I can capture all the lost BTUs my engine cooks off and get ove a quart of WVO blend up to operating temps pretty quick.
Rain and more rain, so sort of a wasted weekend.
However, the 2:65 LSD Differential is "done." I whimped out and got the machinist to install the seals: both axle seals and the pinion seal. I almost bought an inch-pound torque wrench, but lost on Ebay and decided it's not worth the one time hassel. The machinist spec'd everything out and set the rotational torque at a massive 6 inch pounds. The machinist said everything looks perfect ...
So, update on the process:
1. Super cleaning, inside and out
2. Machinist - seal replacement
3. 2 coats of POR-15
4. Clean-up
So, this upcoming week is to get my mod'd driveshaft spin balanced and next weekend is INSTALL TIME !
pretty sexy looking part you have there.
are you gonna do one coat of regular paint over the POR?
Reason I mention this, is I POR-ed a diff in my 115, and after a year or so (with the car not being driven), it fogged up and started turning matte grey black from UV or whatnot. I thought it wouldn't happen being under the car, but it seems like a matter of time it eventually takes place no matter where the POR is applied. Doesn't seem to affect how hard it is or its longevity, but the shiny black coolness is lost
(03-29-2014, 04:13 PM)Greazzer Rain and more rain, so sort of a wasted weekend.
However, the 2:65 LSD Differential is "done." I whimped out and got the machinist to install the seals: both axle seals and the pinion seal. I almost bought an inch-pound torque wrench, but lost on Ebay and decided it's not worth the one time hassel. The machinist spec'd everything out and set the rotational torque at a massive 6 inch pounds. The machinist said everything looks perfect ...
So, update on the process:
1. Super cleaning, inside and out
2. Machinist - seal replacement
3. 2 coats of POR-15
4. Clean-up
So, this upcoming week is to get my mod'd driveshaft spin balanced and next weekend is INSTALL TIME !
(03-29-2014, 04:13 PM)Greazzer Rain and more rain, so sort of a wasted weekend.
However, the 2:65 LSD Differential is "done." I whimped out and got the machinist to install the seals: both axle seals and the pinion seal. I almost bought an inch-pound torque wrench, but lost on Ebay and decided it's not worth the one time hassel. The machinist spec'd everything out and set the rotational torque at a massive 6 inch pounds. The machinist said everything looks perfect ...
So, update on the process:
1. Super cleaning, inside and out
2. Machinist - seal replacement
3. 2 coats of POR-15
4. Clean-up
So, this upcoming week is to get my mod'd driveshaft spin balanced and next weekend is INSTALL TIME !
(03-31-2014, 10:05 AM)JB3 pretty sexy looking part you have there.
are you gonna do one coat of regular paint over the POR?
Reason I mention this, is I POR-ed a diff in my 115, and after a year or so (with the car not being driven), it fogged up and started turning matte grey black from UV or whatnot. I thought it wouldn't happen being under the car, but it seems like a matter of time it eventually takes place no matter where the POR is applied. Doesn't seem to affect how hard it is or its longevity, but the shiny black coolness is lost
(03-31-2014, 10:05 AM)JB3 pretty sexy looking part you have there.
are you gonna do one coat of regular paint over the POR?
Reason I mention this, is I POR-ed a diff in my 115, and after a year or so (with the car not being driven), it fogged up and started turning matte grey black from UV or whatnot. I thought it wouldn't happen being under the car, but it seems like a matter of time it eventually takes place no matter where the POR is applied. Doesn't seem to affect how hard it is or its longevity, but the shiny black coolness is lost
It's a diff. You should rub some shit on it after the install (or before, if you're into that kind of thing) for good measure. Nobody cares what the housing looks like.
(04-01-2014, 10:19 PM)raysorenson It's a diff. You should rub some shit on it after the install (or before, if you're into that kind of thing) for good measure. Nobody cares what the housing looks like.
(04-01-2014, 10:19 PM)raysorenson It's a diff. You should rub some shit on it after the install (or before, if you're into that kind of thing) for good measure. Nobody cares what the housing looks like.
Where did you get that upholstery kit?
(04-02-2014, 05:41 PM)willbhere4u Where did you get that upholstery kit?
(04-02-2014, 05:41 PM)willbhere4u Where did you get that upholstery kit?
The 2:65 LSD is in !
Here are some pictures of the removal of the old differential. Sorry, no pics of the installed 2:65LSD. I thought I took some. Here's what I learned.
If you do not have a car lift AND a trans jack, this must be one of the worst, total PITA operations out there. It took me two hours to remove everything, differential, half axles, and driveshaft. I thought it was going to take two hours to re-install. LOL.
1. Just getting the four threaded studs lined on the differential to the four holes in the trailing arms and doing so perfectly took about two hours. What a PITA.
2. Then, getting the half axles was a job. I honestly thought it was the differential and it was too big. There is no comparision between the two. The differential I took out was like a nerf football compared to the LSD. However, it really fit.
3. My driveshaft is a total PITA. Period. Because I have the 5 speed, it's an odd sized front (smaller section) which I thought was not going to work. So, I tried using the original hack job which was a common front section with about 2" cut off. I abandoned that thought and used the section I had which came with my other 5 speed. It "fit" OK so I am thinking it's OK.
If I ever drop the rear again, I am going to install the axles in the differential and use the trans jack to ease the whole assembly in. I need to re-boot my axles so I am not looking forward to that at all.
I lost my exhaust in the process. The sound was initally pretty cool until it got deafening. However, I was cruising around 60-ish and put it in neutral. Perfectly smooth and "silent". I am overall very happy with the 2:65LSD. I need to install a new exhaust BUT I can say that my car is not slugish.
I will get some picturs of the final product when I do the exhaust.
What are you cruising speeds like? Any noticable differences?
I can say two things, even though the sound and rumble is horrible right now without an exhaust system.
The car is not really noticeably slower or sluggish ... I am very surprised about this. My 300D NA is still pretty peppy ... and it just sails along at 70 while in neutral.
As for top end speed, I don't know yet. I just drove it home today, but at 70 MPH (I know my speedo is off now) then dropped into neutral, it really just sailed along. The drive does feel 100% different, however. I have ALOT of throttle left even at 70 MPH, so I am thinking it will easily cruise at 70 - 80 MPH and no high pitched hum at 90-ish.
So far, I am really happy but I won't really know until I have an exhaust system. It's really loud and rumbly and my only way to test it out is to coast along in neutral after I get it up to speed.
It was a pricey mod and upgrade, coming in a hair below my budgeted $500 for everything ... and collectively about 10 hours, that includes getting it, time to the machinist, painting it, and all the install work.
Here's the final verdit. I got the exhaust installed so I can actually "hear" the car on the road. No noise or issues from the rear end that I can tell.
If with the 300D NA, while shifting through the gears
Gear 1 off the line ... still nice and responsive.
Gear 2 ... still nice and responsive
Gear 3 ... still nice and responsive
Gear 4 ... I got the lug or sluggishness that folks warned about. I am thinking when the Turbo engine goes in, this setup will be perfect
Gear 5 ... My speedo says 60 but I know it's really around 70 because I am keeping up with traffic on the interstate. I have a smooth acceleration up to around 75 then the car sort of sails along but no real throttle left except a very gradual increase. I am thinking I could easily bury my speedo which says 100 but I am thinking that would really be 110, but I would need a very, very long straight away since that will take a while. I think the Getrag 717.400 is 1:1 in 5th gear.
Overall, I would say the 2:65 LSD is a successful option for the 300D, NA or turbo.
The only issue I observed is that I have a weird squeeky sound when I shift gears. No clue what that is.
(04-12-2014, 04:58 PM)Greazzer Here's the final verdit. I got the exhaust installed so I can actually "hear" the car on the road. No noise or issues from the rear end that I can tell.
If with the 300D NA, while shifting through the gears
Gear 1 off the line ... still nice and responsive.
Gear 2 ... still nice and responsive
Gear 3 ... still nice and responsive
Gear 4 ... I got the lug or sluggishness that folks warned about. I am thinking when the Turbo engine goes in, this setup will be perfect
Gear 5 ... My speedo says 60 but I know it's really around 70 because I am keeping up with traffic on the interstate. I have a smooth acceleration up to around 75 then the car sort of sails along but no real throttle left except a very gradual increase. I am thinking I could easily bury my speedo which says 100 but I am thinking that would really be 110, but I would need a very, very long straight away since that will take a while. I think the Getrag 717.400 is 1:1 in 5th gear.
Overall, I would say the 2:65 LSD is a successful option for the 300D, NA or turbo.
The only issue I observed is that I have a weird squeeky sound when I shift gears. No clue what that is.
download a gps speedometer ap for your smart phone, you can get a more accurate idea of what you're doing as far as speed. Are you still doing injectors??
(04-12-2014, 04:58 PM)Greazzer Here's the final verdit. I got the exhaust installed so I can actually "hear" the car on the road. No noise or issues from the rear end that I can tell.
If with the 300D NA, while shifting through the gears
Gear 1 off the line ... still nice and responsive.
Gear 2 ... still nice and responsive
Gear 3 ... still nice and responsive
Gear 4 ... I got the lug or sluggishness that folks warned about. I am thinking when the Turbo engine goes in, this setup will be perfect
Gear 5 ... My speedo says 60 but I know it's really around 70 because I am keeping up with traffic on the interstate. I have a smooth acceleration up to around 75 then the car sort of sails along but no real throttle left except a very gradual increase. I am thinking I could easily bury my speedo which says 100 but I am thinking that would really be 110, but I would need a very, very long straight away since that will take a while. I think the Getrag 717.400 is 1:1 in 5th gear.
Overall, I would say the 2:65 LSD is a successful option for the 300D, NA or turbo.
The only issue I observed is that I have a weird squeeky sound when I shift gears. No clue what that is.
Yes, still doing injectors. I got to hustle tomorrow since I am 3 sets "late". I had 2 free hours today so I spent it on my car.
I only have a flip phone. A smart phone is too smart for me ... LOL
What are you thinking to do about correcting the speedo?
My suggestions would be to use a ratio adapter in the speedo cable. It should get you close. Or you can gut a w123 speedo and try to use w124 speedo mechanicals. A widely available w124 300e came with a 2.65 ratio option and 195 65 R15 tires.
I would imagine the ODO will be accurate, but the needle part would have to be tested with different spring tensions.
.
wow! Super clean job there.
Jealous of your setup.
do you own a shop?