Skid Plate
Skid Plate
09-11-2009, 01:54 PM
#1
OEM? Aftermarket?
Im sure its possible to fab one up from sctrach, but before that point?
Look at this skidplate http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMA5cQwn3nI
I know its a gasser and its Carlsson.
But that skid looks sweet.
1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...
Is there any sources for skid plates for our cars?
OEM? Aftermarket?
Im sure its possible to fab one up from sctrach, but before that point?
Look at this skidplate http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMA5cQwn3nI
I know its a gasser and its Carlsson.
But that skid looks sweet.
1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...
09-11-2009, 08:05 PM
#4
This post was last modified: 10-26-2009, 09:53 PM by ForcedInduction.
ForcedInduction
09-11-2009, 08:05 PM
#4
Yes, every W123 has the bolt holes for the factory skid plate.
09-11-2009, 09:36 PM
#5
(09-11-2009, 08:05 PM)ForcedInduction Yes, every W123 has the bolt holes for the factory skid plate. When I get home tonight i'll post pictures.
Thatd be great forced!
Any pics of the actual skid plate somwhere?
1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...
09-11-2009, 09:57 PM
#6
If you call the Classic Center they may be able to find one.
ForcedInduction
09-11-2009, 09:57 PM
#6
I have pictures of one somebody installed.
If you call the Classic Center they may be able to find one.
09-11-2009, 10:18 PM
#7
(09-11-2009, 09:57 PM)ForcedInduction I have pictures of one somebody installed.
If you call the Classic Center they may be able to find one.
Forced, i would love drooling over some pics, if you wouldnt mind posting them? por favor?
What is the Classic Center wich you speak of?
1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...
(09-11-2009, 09:57 PM)ForcedInduction I have pictures of one somebody installed.
If you call the Classic Center they may be able to find one.
Forced, i would love drooling over some pics, if you wouldnt mind posting them? por favor?
What is the Classic Center wich you speak of?
1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...
09-18-2009, 05:30 PM
#11
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/show...p?t=160706
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/show...p?t=226796
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
09-18-2009, 05:30 PM #11Here are some links to pictures of the skid plate
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/show...p?t=160706
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/show...p?t=226796
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
09-19-2009, 12:32 AM
#12
'78 300D, OM617.912: 4spd manual, TB03 at 10PSI, 26*BTDC, DV's turned, HVAC, emissions system removed, e-fan, short ram, 3" downpipe to straight exhaust, W126 Bendix brakes, MR2 Spyder seats. 2890lbs
09-19-2009, 10:22 AM
#13
(09-18-2009, 05:30 PM)DeliveryValve Here are some links to pictures of the skid plate
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/show...p?t=160706
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/show...p?t=226796
Thanks Delivery, now that i know what im looking for, i jus needa keep an eye out.
(09-19-2009, 12:32 AM)kamel Sure wish I had one when last time I was jumpin.
Kamel! So whats the deal man, do you rallyX that w123 machine of yours or what?
I read your in SoCalish area? Im in the same area.
I would love to get involved in rally with my car man!
This post was last modified: 09-19-2009, 10:24 AM by garage.
1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...
(09-18-2009, 05:30 PM)DeliveryValve Here are some links to pictures of the skid plate
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/show...p?t=160706
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/show...p?t=226796
Thanks Delivery, now that i know what im looking for, i jus needa keep an eye out.
(09-19-2009, 12:32 AM)kamel Sure wish I had one when last time I was jumpin.
Kamel! So whats the deal man, do you rallyX that w123 machine of yours or what?
I read your in SoCalish area? Im in the same area.
I would love to get involved in rally with my car man!
1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...
10-26-2009, 09:37 PM
#14
Try this out.
It refences the part # in the skid plate post.
http://www.worldimpex.com/parts/mercedes...93945.html
Try this out.
It refences the part # in the skid plate post.
10-27-2009, 11:03 PM
#16
(10-27-2009, 08:29 AM)winmutt If that is the right part that is a good enough price where I might get one.
The price is good, but unless youre close enough to their shop (looks like MD) youre gonna have to pay ~60 bux to ship, min...
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
10-27-2009, 11:03 PM #16(10-27-2009, 08:29 AM)winmutt If that is the right part that is a good enough price where I might get one.
The price is good, but unless youre close enough to their shop (looks like MD) youre gonna have to pay ~60 bux to ship, min...
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
11-03-2009, 04:44 PM
#19
(11-03-2009, 08:00 AM)ElsBenz I ordered 2 of them to ship to Wisconsin and the shipping was only $11.00.
....
I got a quote of 60 bucks to go to California a couple of weeks ago.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
11-03-2009, 04:44 PM #19(11-03-2009, 08:00 AM)ElsBenz I ordered 2 of them to ship to Wisconsin and the shipping was only $11.00.
....
I got a quote of 60 bucks to go to California a couple of weeks ago.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
11-03-2009, 04:52 PM
#20
(11-03-2009, 04:44 PM)DeliveryValve I got a quote of 60 bucks to go to California a couple of weeks ago.
Thats probably because California is a lot further from Maryland than Wisconsin.
ForcedInduction
11-03-2009, 04:52 PM
#20
(11-03-2009, 04:44 PM)DeliveryValve I got a quote of 60 bucks to go to California a couple of weeks ago.
Thats probably because California is a lot further from Maryland than Wisconsin.
11-03-2009, 06:16 PM
#21
(11-03-2009, 04:52 PM)ForcedInduction ...
Thats probably because California is a lot further from Maryland than Wisconsin.
You don't say!
In any event it is still a good deal for added protection. Only if they offered the radiator protector cheap.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
11-03-2009, 06:16 PM #21(11-03-2009, 04:52 PM)ForcedInduction ...
Thats probably because California is a lot further from Maryland than Wisconsin.
You don't say!
In any event it is still a good deal for added protection. Only if they offered the radiator protector cheap.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
04-08-2010, 08:18 AM
#22
It looks runny because I steamed it and covered it with rubberized undercoating.
This post was last modified: 04-08-2010, 08:19 AM by ForcedInduction.
Attached Files
Image(s)ForcedInduction
04-08-2010, 08:18 AM
#22
My $5 find. I'll install it on the 240 along with a new lower pan on the next oil change.
It looks runny because I steamed it and covered it with rubberized undercoating.
Attached Files
Image(s)
04-08-2010, 08:46 PM
#26
the nice thing about the skid plate in the initial video is that it also protects the radiator mount, unlike the factory skid plate which looks like it only protects the oil pan. My radiator was cracked from just such an impact right under the bumper, I wonder if your can just add to the factory plate going forwards to provide the protection?
heres a pic of the damage that destroyed my radiator, notice how all it really did was deform that support between the two radiator grommets, but it was enough the stress the plastic bottom and cause it the leak at the stress points.
This post was last modified: 04-08-2010, 08:58 PM by JB3.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
what a stroke of luck, nice find! Can you take a profile picture of it for those of us who might try and make one based on these pics?
the nice thing about the skid plate in the initial video is that it also protects the radiator mount, unlike the factory skid plate which looks like it only protects the oil pan. My radiator was cracked from just such an impact right under the bumper, I wonder if your can just add to the factory plate going forwards to provide the protection?
heres a pic of the damage that destroyed my radiator, notice how all it really did was deform that support between the two radiator grommets, but it was enough the stress the plastic bottom and cause it the leak at the stress points.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
04-15-2010, 06:10 AM
#27
ForcedInduction
04-15-2010, 06:10 AM
#27
Interesting. That would explain the nutserts on the front of the pan but there was no second part on the vehicle I removed this from. Please post a picture of that front pan, I've never seen anything but the single main pan installed.
04-18-2010, 11:09 AM
#28
Use the factory mounting points. But make sure you attach it to the bumper bolts. Do this any way you have to. In the video the car had a piece of square stock connecting the two bumper brackets.
You notice that the skid plate is molded for strength. Use at least 3/16 aluminum.
Think about a rear diff cover and something for the rear control arms, ect.
I would study up on how to fab a prerunner or a rally racer.
Try driving on some forest roads with your diesel like that rally car. You might find out that your car has all the power it needs!
BTW any one broke a w123 control arm off yet. Looks weak, like it would tear out of the body of you hit a ditch or small rocks? Any ideas on this.
Sour Diesel
04-18-2010, 11:09 AM #28I would just build one, or have a local fab shop do it for you.
Use the factory mounting points. But make sure you attach it to the bumper bolts. Do this any way you have to. In the video the car had a piece of square stock connecting the two bumper brackets.
You notice that the skid plate is molded for strength. Use at least 3/16 aluminum.
Think about a rear diff cover and something for the rear control arms, ect.
I would study up on how to fab a prerunner or a rally racer.
Try driving on some forest roads with your diesel like that rally car. You might find out that your car has all the power it needs!
BTW any one broke a w123 control arm off yet. Looks weak, like it would tear out of the body of you hit a ditch or small rocks? Any ideas on this.
04-18-2010, 05:01 PM
#29
The tie rod is way more exposed, and can hook rocks or curbs as I discovered.
Altogether though, the suspension is pretty robust, and fairly high off the ground, what with all of these things in service as taxis still.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
tore a tie rod off, have never heard of anyone having any issues with the lower control arm, unless of course you were jumping.
The tie rod is way more exposed, and can hook rocks or curbs as I discovered.
Altogether though, the suspension is pretty robust, and fairly high off the ground, what with all of these things in service as taxis still.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
04-18-2010, 06:28 PM
#30
(04-18-2010, 11:09 AM)Sour Diesel I would just build one, or have a local fab shop do it for you.
Use the factory mounting points. But make sure you attach it to the bumper bolts. Do this any way you have to. In the video the car had a piece of square stock connecting the two bumper brackets.
You notice that the skid plate is molded for strength. Use at least 3/16 aluminum.
Think about a rear diff cover and something for the rear control arms, ect.
I would study up on how to fab a prerunner or a rally racer.
Try driving on some forest roads with your diesel like that rally car. You might find out that your car has all the power it needs!
BTW any one broke a w123 control arm off yet. Looks weak, like it would tear out of the body of you hit a ditch or small rocks? Any ideas on this.
Actually ive just been looking into getting one fabbed up for the 240D just purchased, one that protects the oil pan using factory placement, and connecting up to the radiator and on through to protect the bottom of the bumper, like the video hopefully.
I always catch myself reading up on prerunner fabrication, and looking at how to apply different aspects to these cars for better "performance".
Today was my 2nd time out running my benz in some dirtroads, today was actually pretty ballsy out there, some pretty ruff stuff.
and this car soaked up everything i gave it.
Im actually really interested in finding a rallyX event to compete in.
Is that a carbon fiber hood?
Or is it just painted black?
This post was last modified: 04-18-2010, 06:32 PM by garage.
1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...
(04-18-2010, 11:09 AM)Sour Diesel I would just build one, or have a local fab shop do it for you.
Use the factory mounting points. But make sure you attach it to the bumper bolts. Do this any way you have to. In the video the car had a piece of square stock connecting the two bumper brackets.
You notice that the skid plate is molded for strength. Use at least 3/16 aluminum.
Think about a rear diff cover and something for the rear control arms, ect.
I would study up on how to fab a prerunner or a rally racer.
Try driving on some forest roads with your diesel like that rally car. You might find out that your car has all the power it needs!
BTW any one broke a w123 control arm off yet. Looks weak, like it would tear out of the body of you hit a ditch or small rocks? Any ideas on this.
Actually ive just been looking into getting one fabbed up for the 240D just purchased, one that protects the oil pan using factory placement, and connecting up to the radiator and on through to protect the bottom of the bumper, like the video hopefully.
I always catch myself reading up on prerunner fabrication, and looking at how to apply different aspects to these cars for better "performance".
Today was my 2nd time out running my benz in some dirtroads, today was actually pretty ballsy out there, some pretty ruff stuff.
and this car soaked up everything i gave it.
Im actually really interested in finding a rallyX event to compete in.
Is that a carbon fiber hood?
Or is it just painted black?
1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...
![[Image: Skid1.jpg]](http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn62/greasy300tdturbo/Skid1.jpg)
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