The Sleeper -- Part Deux
The Sleeper -- Part Deux
(04-13-2014, 12:55 PM)DeliveryValve What are you thinking to do about correcting the speedo?
My suggestions would be to use a ratio adapter in the speedo cable. It should get you close. Or you can gut a w123 speedo and try to use w124 speedo mechanicals. A widely available w124 300e came with a 2.65 ratio option and 195 65 R15 tires.
I would imagine the ODO will be accurate, but the needle part would have to be tested with different spring tensions.
.
(04-13-2014, 01:09 PM)Purplecomputer wow! Super clean job there.
Jealous of your setup.
do you own a shop?
(04-13-2014, 12:55 PM)DeliveryValve What are you thinking to do about correcting the speedo?
My suggestions would be to use a ratio adapter in the speedo cable. It should get you close. Or you can gut a w123 speedo and try to use w124 speedo mechanicals. A widely available w124 300e came with a 2.65 ratio option and 195 65 R15 tires.
I would imagine the ODO will be accurate, but the needle part would have to be tested with different spring tensions.
.
(04-13-2014, 01:09 PM)Purplecomputer wow! Super clean job there.
Jealous of your setup.
do you own a shop?
or you just get that slightly missalligned 2.88 speedometer? seeing how almost every darn speedometer of my cars have been of by atleast 10km/h (6mph) a 2.88 might actually show the correct speed for your 2.65, they isnt that far apart...
do you have any plan to put a turbo on that car? a NA 617 fivespeed and a 2.65 shure is a tall gearing would be interesting to see how it behaves in snow with the LSD
(04-14-2014, 04:38 PM)swampmonkey or you just get that slightly missalligned 2.88 speedometer? seeing how almost every darn speedometer of my cars have been of by atleast 10km/h (6mph) a 2.88 might actually show the correct speed for your 2.65, they isnt that far apart...
do you have any plan to put a turbo on that car? a NA 617 fivespeed and a 2.65 shure is a tall gearing would be interesting to see how it behaves in snow with the LSD
(04-14-2014, 04:38 PM)swampmonkey or you just get that slightly missalligned 2.88 speedometer? seeing how almost every darn speedometer of my cars have been of by atleast 10km/h (6mph) a 2.88 might actually show the correct speed for your 2.65, they isnt that far apart...
do you have any plan to put a turbo on that car? a NA 617 fivespeed and a 2.65 shure is a tall gearing would be interesting to see how it behaves in snow with the LSD
(04-13-2014, 05:13 PM)Greazzer ... I am thinking of just trying to butcher the internals from another speedo as you suggest from a W124.
(04-13-2014, 05:13 PM)Greazzer ... I am thinking of just trying to butcher the internals from another speedo as you suggest from a W124.
Thanks Richard ...
That looks very finitiky ... another mod or change or repair spawns new issues ...
I am thinking I need something simple ... lol
(04-14-2014, 05:51 PM)Greazzer ....
I am thinking I need something simple ... lol
(04-14-2014, 05:51 PM)Greazzer ....
I am thinking I need something simple ... lol
How about the W116 speedo. I updated one of your posts ...
Is that a killer ?
(04-14-2014, 06:07 PM)Greazzer How about the W116 speedo. I updated one of your posts ...
Is that a killer ?
(04-14-2014, 06:07 PM)Greazzer How about the W116 speedo. I updated one of your posts ...
Is that a killer ?
id say, get a 2.88 w123 speedo and see how wrong it is, worst case senario, correct it by using a printer and just dissemble the speedometer, cant be that hard
http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb258...5c5ad0.jpg
+ you can get your own trademark/logo discretely in there or whatever, then it is truly your car
Since I am on the cusp of making real progress on my car, here's a list of what's done or parts in hand which are just waiting for the final install, final R&D, and then selling off every extra part or item to generate funds for the "real" paintjob. So, I should have some pretty decent deals within the next few months.
Exterior – Body Appearances
AMG Front Air Damm (Chin)
AMG Rear Trunk Spoiler
Front & Back 3-piece Euro Bumpers
Front & Back Mercedes Benz Mud flaps
Plastic & Rubber matched dye to paint
Four-Light taillight mod-upgrade
Drive train
Getrag 717.400 five-speed transmission
2:65 LSD differential
Modified driveshaft with grease fittings
Interior
Rear, Euro Headrests
Three-Point front driver arm rest
All new, red leather pebble grain interior
Complete sound deadening system engineered by SoundDeadeningShowdown.Com
All Manual functions, window regulators, sun roof, climate control, seat tracks, et cet
Engine
150 Amp Alternator
Electric Water Pump (EWP)
Re-located oil filter housing and oil cooler, with quick releases / JiffyTight Fittings - in the works
OM617.952A Turbo Engine with Modified IP 6mm elements, 160-ish HP rating goal in mind - machinists finally has it on an engine stand !
3” Aluminum Radiator, modified
Modified Air Intake System from 1985 Cali system
Suspension, Exhaust, and Other Systems
Mercedes Manual Steering Box
Front 25mm Sway Bar
WVO System, 60 Plate Heat Exchanger, Two-Tank System
M100 Suspension 6.9 with cylinder head from turbowagon (pump). Got the parts -- just waiting for someone else to have tried this one.
3 years down the tubes, a bunch of luck, lucky timing, and a lot of pestering of folks on the forums to find out about this or that ... I need to find some real insurance pretty soon.
Just went by one of those "this is your speed" devices on the interstate. My speedo says 65, and the illuminated sign said 82 MPH.
If that is accurate, then I have been incredibly lucky by not getting a speeding ticket. I have been regularly buzzing along at "70" which has to be in the mid 80's or higher in reality.
Get an android phone and download an app like ulyses speedometer, speed, acceleration, headsupdisplay option on windscreen :-)
I have a flip phone and that is at times challenging ...lol
(04-16-2014, 04:08 PM)Greazzer I have a flip phone and that is at times challenging ...lol
(04-16-2014, 04:08 PM)Greazzer I have a flip phone and that is at times challenging ...lol
i could send you an old android with the speedometer installet, al you have to do is keeping it charged
HUD speedometer is kind of sweet
(04-17-2014, 08:15 AM)Purplecomputer(04-16-2014, 04:08 PM)Greazzer I have a flip phone and that is at times challenging ...lol
if you have a gps like a garmin or tomtom or pretty much any brand. they usually have an option to enable speed detection.
i think on tom toms you can only set it if you want to set an alarm if youre going to fast.
(04-17-2014, 08:49 AM)swampmonkey i could send you an old android with the speedometer installet, al you have to do is keeping it charged
HUD speedometer is kind of sweet
(04-17-2014, 08:15 AM)Purplecomputer(04-16-2014, 04:08 PM)Greazzer I have a flip phone and that is at times challenging ...lol
if you have a gps like a garmin or tomtom or pretty much any brand. they usually have an option to enable speed detection.
i think on tom toms you can only set it if you want to set an alarm if youre going to fast.
(04-17-2014, 08:49 AM)swampmonkey i could send you an old android with the speedometer installet, al you have to do is keeping it charged
HUD speedometer is kind of sweet
You shoulddo a test...get a constant speed wit the GPS and see how it differs from the radar. I can't remember when a spedo matched what the radar said. I think big brother is trying to trick us.
Used the Garmin and got pretty consistent results. Unless I am missing the boat, the speedometer is not linear. That is, if I am going 60 MPH on the speedo, the Garmin says I am going 78-9 MPH. It depends on how I line up my line of sight with the speedo. If I am going 40 MPH, the 18-19 MPH difference is not the same, it's lower or less. Is that normal? In any event, I can make a nifty chart and document 10 - 70 MPH and then transfer those numbers over to what I am really doing. I got my 2:88 cluster so that will be going in this weekend hopefully.
IIRC it should be off by a percentage. So I'd say that's normal.
To use simple numbers, a 20% error would work out to be:
100mph is 20 mph off
50mph is 10mph off
25mph is 5mph off
Whew... I thought I was losing my marbles, but it is definitly not linear.
I now got a 2:88 speedo and if I am doing 70 on the speedo, I am really doing around 77-ish
If I am doing 60 on the speedo, it's 65 on the nose.
So, I am pretty happy so far with my new speedo. It is significantly smoother, no needle bounch or jumpiness at all.
Look what I did to my poor car. It's all jacked up ...
New Bilsteins in the rear and new Propigskin SLS delete springs in the rear with 19mm shims as well. Hope it settles down. Or, maybe front new springs and new Bilsteins will make it look level ? Just higher ... poop.
Does anyone know if I went with the 10mm shims versus the 19mm shims if that will make any real difference ???? Thank goodness this is a really easy operation, takes slightly over an hour, so any changes are no big deal.
Wow! You're ready for some 32" mud tires! Looks like you might have to cut some coils
What is the reason for going Propigskin springs? They are a taller and thicker wire diameter spring for wagon weight.
I going to bet the only way to get it down (and it's not going to be a lot) is to get a firmer spring up front. You are probably running 240 springs since this was a 240 right?
The propigskin springs are thicker, e.g., 18mm versus 240D springs which are 15.9mm. They are NOT taller. They are actually around 3/8" shorter. And yes, orginally a 240D car. I found a wagon set of springs from a 1983 turbo. I am thinking of grabbing those. I guess a wagon's springs from a turbo would be the most beefier or robust for the W123 line-up?
I bought them from then Dropnosky, now JB3 back in 2011 or 2012. He sold them at a decent price so I grabbed them. I thought they would only jump the height maybe an inch ... never thought this.
This weekend is operation front springs now.
Actually what I meant they are taller than wagon springs, but the thicker wire diameter will raise it significantly.
Wagon front springs are the same as 300d/300cd springs. My hunch if you want it much lower, you are going to have to cut coils out with 300d/cd/td front springs and thinner spring pads. If you want a bit of height still, than just install the 300d/cd/td front springs and thinner spring pad.
I am going with the 9.5 rear pads and 300TD front springs from a 1983 wagon. This weekend's project.
Not overly thrilled with the new look
Sorry I lol'd. That ass is wayyy up there! In pretty much the exact opposite situation, I used 240D front springs in my wagon, which gave the front end a inch or so drop, and improved the overall, dare I say, "stance" of the wagon. It was much improved in my opinion.
It is funny now ... still looks shitty, but I have mastered the spring compressor tool and after 2, or 3 or 4 tries this upcoming weekend, I will be a pro ... lol
still must be annoying on how you have to take the shock's out each time for the rear.
(05-06-2014, 01:53 PM)Greazzer The propigskin springs are thicker, e.g., 18mm versus 240D springs which are 15.9mm. They are NOT taller. They are actually around 3/8" shorter. And yes, orginally a 240D car. I found a wagon set of springs from a 1983 turbo. I am thinking of grabbing those. I guess a wagon's springs from a turbo would be the most beefier or robust for the W123 line-up?
I bought them from then Dropnosky, now JB3 back in 2011 or 2012. He sold them at a decent price so I grabbed them. I thought they would only jump the height maybe an inch ... never thought this.
This weekend is operation front springs now.
(05-06-2014, 01:53 PM)Greazzer The propigskin springs are thicker, e.g., 18mm versus 240D springs which are 15.9mm. They are NOT taller. They are actually around 3/8" shorter. And yes, orginally a 240D car. I found a wagon set of springs from a 1983 turbo. I am thinking of grabbing those. I guess a wagon's springs from a turbo would be the most beefier or robust for the W123 line-up?
I bought them from then Dropnosky, now JB3 back in 2011 or 2012. He sold them at a decent price so I grabbed them. I thought they would only jump the height maybe an inch ... never thought this.
This weekend is operation front springs now.
I'm honestly thinking about lifting my car that much and getting all terrain tires for off-road use
(05-07-2014, 02:41 PM)sassparilla_kid I'm honestly thinking about lifting my car that much and getting all terrain tires for off-road use
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(05-07-2014, 02:41 PM)sassparilla_kid I'm honestly thinking about lifting my car that much and getting all terrain tires for off-road use
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
I ended up cutting one coil, which I believe is too much. I wish I cut 1/2 coil and then fine tuned it from there. Probably 3/4 of a coil would have been perfect. Odd thing, driver side's spring was tight when the spring compressor was removed and the passenger side was loose enough where another 1/4" would have been needed to make it tight like the driver's side. I measured a number of times and both coil springs are exact, within an amount which is not perceptible to the eye. So, not upset but not 100% either. On the ground, the car is the same height on both sides. I will measure again tomorrow to see if anything changed.
Drove it home, and made sure I drove it aggressively around the corners, et cet. Got a number of "t w a n g s" so to speak, but cornering is really really nice. Overall, the only thing I regret or would have done differently is cut 1/2" coil, drove it around for a day or two, and then decide to cut some more or not. The 18mm rear springs are definitely an improvement over 15.9mm 240D springs. Again, wish I only cut 1/2 coil, and then maybe another 1/4 of a coil at most. I currently got 19mm rubber pads, so I am pretty much stuck with what I got.
I think it looks good. Its funny you mention the drivers side being harder than the passenger's side, I just experienced that on the fronts.
Thanks Jake ...
I wish I only cut 1/2 coil and then I could play with the 9.5mm pad. Now, I am stuck with the 12" spring and 19mm pad. I should have used my better judgment.
I think its a great height as well! If you trim the front coils you are gonna get a nice subtle agressive stance for this thing.
Can you describe the cornering difference some more? it corners better with the harder springs? How would you describe it in relation to a 300D?
Thanks John, too
CORNERING: Much stiffer. By that, I mean when taking a corner hard and aggressively, I do not get the feeling that the car is going to tip over (that's exaggeration), but instead it feels like it is hugging the road and "digging" into the turn and the turn itself feels more crisp or precise versus the sloppy turn such in old hoopies I used to own.
Does that help at all ???
(05-09-2014, 05:21 PM)Greazzer Thanks John, too
CORNERING: Much stiffer. By that, I mean when taking a corner hard and aggressively, I do not get the feeling that the car is going to tip over (that's exaggeration), but instead it feels like it is hugging the road and "digging" into the turn and the turn itself feels more crisp or precise versus the sloppy turn such in old hoopies I used to own.
Does that help at all ???
(05-09-2014, 05:21 PM)Greazzer Thanks John, too
CORNERING: Much stiffer. By that, I mean when taking a corner hard and aggressively, I do not get the feeling that the car is going to tip over (that's exaggeration), but instead it feels like it is hugging the road and "digging" into the turn and the turn itself feels more crisp or precise versus the sloppy turn such in old hoopies I used to own.
Does that help at all ???
Well, an entire coil is too much IMO. I am thinking 1/2 coil, and then maybe using the 9.5mm rubber pad. OR, 3/4 of a coil and the 14mm pad. If I had to do it over again, I would never have chopped an entire coil.
THREE'S A CHARM
This AM, I went ahead and swapped out the springs for a third time, and success. I got the exact look I wanted. It was like the three bears, one was too high, one too low, and now right where I want it.
The springs come from http://slsconversion.com/How_To_Install.html
The SLS wagon flavor are a hair over 14" in height. I cut one entire coil, and ended up with 12". The 14" with 19mm pads was way too high. The 14" with 9.5 pads were still way too high. The 12" with 19mm pads were too low IMO.
So, I ended up getting the same 18mm springs from ProPigSkins (ATTN: Erik) at 13+" I want to say 13 1/4"-ish. I ended up using new OEM MB 9.5mm pads. My car now sits around 30mm higher in the rear which is just about perfect for my tastes.
I drove the car right afterwards. I took some really sharp corners, going uphill and downhill in the cornering and was very aggressive and I can say those springs are "WOW". Very very tight steering, no splashy rear end, and an overall 2 thumbs up for the 18mm springs.
Word of caution. The 12" spring height with 19mm pads is barely high enough to create tension in the rear spring pocket; however, once you install the shocks and put "some" weight on it, they ride just fine, just too low for me. I still got an occasional twang when driving aggressively, BUT the twangs were going away since I am thinking those springs finally seated.
So, for a rear suspension upgrade, this is best way to go until I tinker with the 6.9 M100 W116 hydropnuematic four corners system down the road. However, for an hour or two job ... YOU CANNOT BEAT THIS ONE !
Erik at the company provides 100% customer service. You cannot beat his attentiveness and concern with the hobby.
Slight change in the repairs - restoration project.
Finally got my windshield damage fixed, although the damage occured last July. Gotta love my insurance company of 28 years. In any event, I got a NEW Mercedes windshield gasket and aftermarket windshield. Cleanest windshied I've had in a while ... lol
The guys who fixed this knew their stuff -- only took about an hour.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
exceeeeeeeeelllennntttttt
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
I love new windshield's they are so nice! whats with all of the green tape on the hood?
A way to ID the hail storm dings. We got hammered around two weeks ago. My wife's Camry had $3K worth of hail damage. My front clip was perfect and pristine, but the metal must be thicker than a Camry's (or any other newer car) since some of the dings were faint and hard to keep track of. I have between 44 to 60 dings. Trying to get my estimate for the work now. The problem is my insurance company will total the car if the hail damage exceeds 40% of the car's value. My insurance company will just give me a low ball value for the car, e.g. $2,000 if I am lucky, and then claim it has $1K+ worth of damage. Then, they avoid paying the claim, they low balled the value, and then I am stuck either totaling the car or abandoning the claim altogether. Been with USAA for around 28 years and they are HORRIBLE. Looking for a new insurance company by 30 JUNE 2014. I really hate USAA. They loved me for the first 24 years since I never had a claim and they got my premiums for all those years. Now, I learned the hard way. They totaled my first MB and lowballed the value.
Anything can be fixed or repaired.
Right now I am very cautious with the estimate business since USAA has demonstrated its only motivation and that's avoiding proper claims. I suspect the damage could be in the same ball park as my wife's Camry or could be as low as a $500-$1,000. Who knows. I am now looking for a roofer since my entire roof needs replacing, siding around 50% of my house, a new HVAC unit, a few windows, and some other odds and ends. That brief 2 hours of hail and wind and rain a few weeks ago has gobbled up a lot of my time and it does suck knowing that your insurance company is not in your corner at all.
Yeah but you are supposed to hand down your USAA insurance to generations to generations in your family. It's your legacy according to the commercials!
(06-03-2014, 07:02 PM)Greazzer Anything can be fixed or repaired.
Right now I am very cautious with the estimate business since USAA has demonstrated its only motivation and that's avoiding proper claims. I suspect the damage could be in the same ball park as my wife's Camry or could be as low as a $500-$1,000. Who knows. I am now looking for a roofer since my entire roof needs replacing, siding around 50% of my house, a new HVAC unit, a few windows, and some other odds and ends. That brief 2 hours of hail and wind and rain a few weeks ago has gobbled up a lot of my time and it does suck knowing that your insurance company is not in your corner at all.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(06-03-2014, 07:02 PM)Greazzer Anything can be fixed or repaired.
Right now I am very cautious with the estimate business since USAA has demonstrated its only motivation and that's avoiding proper claims. I suspect the damage could be in the same ball park as my wife's Camry or could be as low as a $500-$1,000. Who knows. I am now looking for a roofer since my entire roof needs replacing, siding around 50% of my house, a new HVAC unit, a few windows, and some other odds and ends. That brief 2 hours of hail and wind and rain a few weeks ago has gobbled up a lot of my time and it does suck knowing that your insurance company is not in your corner at all.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?