Thoughts on Catch-Cans W123
Thoughts on Catch-Cans W123
10-04-2014, 10:43 AM
#1
OR,
I will need a catchcan. The pricing ranges from $20-ish shipped to $500-ish shipped. OR, I can make one for around $50-ish.
What have folks used and what do folks like ?
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
OK, just about done my air box mod as well as permanent M+W injection set up. I have realized that I can vent to the outside the crankcase gases from the VC. This causes a drop or two of oil on the pavement every now and then. Very, very annoying.
OR,
I will need a catchcan. The pricing ranges from $20-ish shipped to $500-ish shipped. OR, I can make one for around $50-ish.
What have folks used and what do folks like ?
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
10-04-2014, 01:24 PM
#2
(10-04-2014, 10:43 AM)Greazzer OK, just about done my air box mod as well as permanent M+W injection set up. I have realized that I can vent to the outside the crankcase gases from the VC. This causes a drop or two of oil on the pavement every now and then. Very, very annoying.If you just want a catch can use a cut off gatorade bottle filled with fishing line and a hose going to and into it. The fishing line causes the vapor to condense on it and fall to the bottom.
OR,
I will need a catchcan. The pricing ranges from $20-ish shipped to $500-ish shipped. OR, I can make one for around $50-ish.
What have folks used and what do folks like ?
2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
(10-04-2014, 10:43 AM)Greazzer OK, just about done my air box mod as well as permanent M+W injection set up. I have realized that I can vent to the outside the crankcase gases from the VC. This causes a drop or two of oil on the pavement every now and then. Very, very annoying.If you just want a catch can use a cut off gatorade bottle filled with fishing line and a hose going to and into it. The fishing line causes the vapor to condense on it and fall to the bottom.
OR,
I will need a catchcan. The pricing ranges from $20-ish shipped to $500-ish shipped. OR, I can make one for around $50-ish.
What have folks used and what do folks like ?
2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
10-04-2014, 04:47 PM
#4
I'd use a glass jar and hose clamp it somewhere(use some rubber on the clamps like the stuff to put on gas tank straps). drill a hole in the top just bigger then the hose, then your misty oil cant escape and muck up your engine bay, and you can still vent properly, or you can make the hole tight and put a breather filter out the lid too. i like the idea of the fishing line never heard of that, but sounds like a good idea. glass just looks better then a gatorade bottle lol.
10-04-2014, 06:14 PM
#5
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
I built a catch can several years ago, but I screwed up and drilled a hole wrong so the oil didn't drain properly, and it looked sloppy in the engine bay
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
10-04-2014, 08:10 PM
#6
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
10-04-2014, 08:10 PM #6The $20 ebay ones are junk-they don't have anything in them to condense the oil. The air compressor oiler+steel wool looks like a good way to go.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
10-04-2014, 09:23 PM
#7
raysorenson
10-04-2014, 09:23 PM #7Oil has an octane rating of about 30. This is why catch cans are used on gas engines that require high octane. I can't think of any reason not to route blow by right into the turbo on a diesel.
10-04-2014, 10:13 PM
#8
This post was last modified: 10-04-2014, 10:14 PM by w123love.
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
I have a 42draft designs catch can. In my opinion it might as well be the Prada of catch cans. But it ain't worth dick. (words of a past co-worker). It looks like it means business, with the little holes for condensation and what not. But it really didn't do anything. I know I have blow by. It makes a misty has when I free vent it to the side. I shoved it full of stainless steel wool, but that made no difference. The damn thing has a dipstick too. But it never filled up. I was so bummed. I don't know why it didn't work for me.
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
10-04-2014, 10:27 PM
#9
Currently, I have a piece of fuel line jammed into the rubber elbow on top of the valve cover and I have that running down by the bottom of radiator where it vents. I can say that every 3 park jobs in the drive way will leave a drop or two of black goodness.
I think there is some voodoo in the catch can game. The price variations are huge ... They seem to be made out of aluminum, the size of a 16-20 oz. beverage container, a few ports, and that's about it. The ones over $100 claim to be the real shizzle in catch cans. However, the cheapest costing $20-ish appear "generally" to be the same as the pricey ones pushing $500-ish.
I am looking for an aluminum container that I can re-purpose since the few commercial items that have inside secrets disclosed appear something the average tinkerer can make in the garage ...
We'll see.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
From what I can tell, the overall problem of venting back into the air box is that I am re-introducing hot hair back into the system. I highly doubt that any possible oil would somehow make it back into the intake. I chose the Cali air box-set up since it draws air thru the fender, so I would say this qualifies as a legit cold air intake system.
Currently, I have a piece of fuel line jammed into the rubber elbow on top of the valve cover and I have that running down by the bottom of radiator where it vents. I can say that every 3 park jobs in the drive way will leave a drop or two of black goodness.
I think there is some voodoo in the catch can game. The price variations are huge ... They seem to be made out of aluminum, the size of a 16-20 oz. beverage container, a few ports, and that's about it. The ones over $100 claim to be the real shizzle in catch cans. However, the cheapest costing $20-ish appear "generally" to be the same as the pricey ones pushing $500-ish.
I am looking for an aluminum container that I can re-purpose since the few commercial items that have inside secrets disclosed appear something the average tinkerer can make in the garage ...
We'll see.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
10-05-2014, 05:27 AM
#10
(10-04-2014, 09:23 PM)raysorenson Oil has an octane rating of about 30. This is why catch cans are used on gas engines that require high octane. I can't think of any reason not to route blow by right into the turbo on a diesel.
Cos it condenses out inside the intercooler and makes a real mess given time.
(10-04-2014, 09:23 PM)raysorenson Oil has an octane rating of about 30. This is why catch cans are used on gas engines that require high octane. I can't think of any reason not to route blow by right into the turbo on a diesel.
Cos it condenses out inside the intercooler and makes a real mess given time.
10-05-2014, 07:57 AM
#11
(10-04-2014, 04:47 PM)Edian727 I'd use a glass jar and hose clamp it somewhere(use some rubber on the clamps like the stuff to put on gas tank straps). drill a hole in the top just bigger then the hose, then your misty oil cant escape and muck up your engine bay, and you can still vent properly, or you can make the hole tight and put a breather filter out the lid too. i like the idea of the fishing line never heard of that, but sounds like a good idea. glass just looks better then a gatorade bottle lol.Glass can break and gatorade bottles cost nothing...
Make sure the hole to accept the hose is quite a bit larger than the hose itself because if you restrict the oil vapor mist flow it could cause issues. That was what I found in the first versions of my catch can. I used a older external 616 sep unit and vented it to the gatorade bottle system. Been working great for several years now.
This post was last modified: 10-05-2014, 08:08 AM by MTUPower.
2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
(10-04-2014, 04:47 PM)Edian727 I'd use a glass jar and hose clamp it somewhere(use some rubber on the clamps like the stuff to put on gas tank straps). drill a hole in the top just bigger then the hose, then your misty oil cant escape and muck up your engine bay, and you can still vent properly, or you can make the hole tight and put a breather filter out the lid too. i like the idea of the fishing line never heard of that, but sounds like a good idea. glass just looks better then a gatorade bottle lol.Glass can break and gatorade bottles cost nothing...
Make sure the hole to accept the hose is quite a bit larger than the hose itself because if you restrict the oil vapor mist flow it could cause issues. That was what I found in the first versions of my catch can. I used a older external 616 sep unit and vented it to the gatorade bottle system. Been working great for several years now.
2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
![[Image: 86o5UGL.jpg?1]](http://i.imgur.com/86o5UGL.jpg?1)
![[Image: 208104.png]](http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/208104.png)
10-06-2014, 02:07 AM
#13
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
mike-81-240d
10-06-2014, 02:07 AM #13I cut the stock oil seperator out of the factory air box, and use it instead.
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
10-06-2014, 07:08 AM
#14
(10-05-2014, 05:27 AM)Druk(10-04-2014, 09:23 PM)raysorenson Oil has an octane rating of about 30. This is why catch cans are used on gas engines that require high octane. I can't think of any reason not to route blow by right into the turbo on a diesel.
Cos it condenses out inside the intercooler and makes a real mess given time.
True, intercoolers get gross but I have yet to see an automaker build one differently. Even gas burners with pcv systems route the blowby to the turbo inlet under boost.
raysorenson
10-06-2014, 07:08 AM #14(10-05-2014, 05:27 AM)Druk(10-04-2014, 09:23 PM)raysorenson Oil has an octane rating of about 30. This is why catch cans are used on gas engines that require high octane. I can't think of any reason not to route blow by right into the turbo on a diesel.
Cos it condenses out inside the intercooler and makes a real mess given time.
True, intercoolers get gross but I have yet to see an automaker build one differently. Even gas burners with pcv systems route the blowby to the turbo inlet under boost.
10-06-2014, 08:56 AM
#15
(10-06-2014, 02:07 AM)mike-81-240d I cut the stock oil seperator out of the factory air box, and use it instead.
Ditto. Free and it will look as good as you want it to. Use your imagination for the receptacle. Heck, put it inside of a gatorade bottle if it blows your hair back. lol
There's NO voodoo and absolutely NO reason to pad someone else's pockets, no offense w123love. It is a simple device that you won't perfect so save your resources and sanity. Even the best engineered examples (using cyclone, venturi, Bernoulli, etc.) can't completely remove the oil.
Actually, the biggest "problem" for most is the reintroduction into the charge air circuit. Every available surface along this path WILL be coated with condensate continuing to separate. The effect on intake air temp is minimal, not enough volume. Your current hose to the ground solution provides little opportunity for condensation and no low point as a reservoir (unless you consider the ground a reservoir.) It's as simple as that.
Some hints if you choose to fab yourself:
Pack the inside of your catch can with whatever, the goal is max amount of surface area. Scotch-brite and steel wool are commonly used materials. For the receptacle, use a plugged length of clear tubing attached with a hose clamp. You can monitor and replace as needed. Your inlet and outlet ports should not be positioned to allow the flow a non-interactive path. Though gravity is responsible for most of the separation, improving contact between the flow and packing material also increases the separation efficiency. And if you don't want slick coated internal surfaces along your intake simply vent the catch can to atmosphere.
MBZ123
(10-06-2014, 02:07 AM)mike-81-240d I cut the stock oil seperator out of the factory air box, and use it instead.
Ditto. Free and it will look as good as you want it to. Use your imagination for the receptacle. Heck, put it inside of a gatorade bottle if it blows your hair back. lol
There's NO voodoo and absolutely NO reason to pad someone else's pockets, no offense w123love. It is a simple device that you won't perfect so save your resources and sanity. Even the best engineered examples (using cyclone, venturi, Bernoulli, etc.) can't completely remove the oil.
Actually, the biggest "problem" for most is the reintroduction into the charge air circuit. Every available surface along this path WILL be coated with condensate continuing to separate. The effect on intake air temp is minimal, not enough volume. Your current hose to the ground solution provides little opportunity for condensation and no low point as a reservoir (unless you consider the ground a reservoir.) It's as simple as that.
Some hints if you choose to fab yourself:
Pack the inside of your catch can with whatever, the goal is max amount of surface area. Scotch-brite and steel wool are commonly used materials. For the receptacle, use a plugged length of clear tubing attached with a hose clamp. You can monitor and replace as needed. Your inlet and outlet ports should not be positioned to allow the flow a non-interactive path. Though gravity is responsible for most of the separation, improving contact between the flow and packing material also increases the separation efficiency. And if you don't want slick coated internal surfaces along your intake simply vent the catch can to atmosphere.
MBZ123
10-06-2014, 08:36 PM
#16
(10-06-2014, 08:56 AM)mbz123(10-06-2014, 02:07 AM)mike-81-240d I cut the stock oil seperator out of the factory air box, and use it instead.
Ditto. Free and it will look as good as you want it to. Use your imagination for the receptacle. Heck, put it inside of a gatorade bottle if it blows your hair back. lol
There's NO voodoo and absolutely NO reason to pad someone else's pockets, no offense w123love. It is a simple device that you won't perfect so save your resources and sanity. Even the best engineered examples (using cyclone, venturi, Bernoulli, etc.) can't completely remove the oil.
Actually, the biggest "problem" for most is the reintroduction into the charge air circuit. Every available surface along this path WILL be coated with condensate continuing to separate. The effect on intake air temp is minimal, not enough volume. Your current hose to the ground solution provides little opportunity for condensation and no low point as a reservoir (unless you consider the ground a reservoir.) It's as simple as that.
Some hints if you choose to fab yourself:
Pack the inside of your catch can with whatever, the goal is max amount of surface area. Scotch-brite and steel wool are commonly used materials. For the receptacle, use a plugged length of clear tubing attached with a hose clamp. You can monitor and replace as needed. Your inlet and outlet ports should not be positioned to allow the flow a non-interactive path. Though gravity is responsible for most of the separation, improving contact between the flow and packing material also increases the separation efficiency. And if you don't want slick coated internal surfaces along your intake simply vent the catch can to atmosphere.
MBZ123
Hey no offense taken. I didn't do much research before I bought it, and just went with the idea that money solved the problem. Obviously not it this case. What still bugs me though is how ineffective it was. It literally did NOTHING the entire time it was in there. I recovered no oil whatsoever.
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
(10-06-2014, 08:56 AM)mbz123(10-06-2014, 02:07 AM)mike-81-240d I cut the stock oil seperator out of the factory air box, and use it instead.
Ditto. Free and it will look as good as you want it to. Use your imagination for the receptacle. Heck, put it inside of a gatorade bottle if it blows your hair back. lol
There's NO voodoo and absolutely NO reason to pad someone else's pockets, no offense w123love. It is a simple device that you won't perfect so save your resources and sanity. Even the best engineered examples (using cyclone, venturi, Bernoulli, etc.) can't completely remove the oil.
Actually, the biggest "problem" for most is the reintroduction into the charge air circuit. Every available surface along this path WILL be coated with condensate continuing to separate. The effect on intake air temp is minimal, not enough volume. Your current hose to the ground solution provides little opportunity for condensation and no low point as a reservoir (unless you consider the ground a reservoir.) It's as simple as that.
Some hints if you choose to fab yourself:
Pack the inside of your catch can with whatever, the goal is max amount of surface area. Scotch-brite and steel wool are commonly used materials. For the receptacle, use a plugged length of clear tubing attached with a hose clamp. You can monitor and replace as needed. Your inlet and outlet ports should not be positioned to allow the flow a non-interactive path. Though gravity is responsible for most of the separation, improving contact between the flow and packing material also increases the separation efficiency. And if you don't want slick coated internal surfaces along your intake simply vent the catch can to atmosphere.
MBZ123
Hey no offense taken. I didn't do much research before I bought it, and just went with the idea that money solved the problem. Obviously not it this case. What still bugs me though is how ineffective it was. It literally did NOTHING the entire time it was in there. I recovered no oil whatsoever.
if it don’t blow black...take it back.
1982 300TDT 4 Speed 196K Standard Beige “VEGEWGN”. 300GD FW. Walbro FRC-8 Fuel Pump. ZadaTech LCD Boost, EGT, & Fuel Pressure gauge. Non-EGR Exhaust and Intake Manifold. 3/2 Valves gone. Soon to have Elsbett WVO conversion
1981 300D 314K Midnight Blue “The Blue Car”, Lovecrap system, owned 25 years+
1985 300TD White 198K “Betty White” Pure beauty
The VEGEWGN
10-07-2014, 05:21 AM
#17
(10-06-2014, 02:07 AM)mike-81-240d I cut the stock oil seperator out of the factory air box, and use it instead.Older 616 models have an exterior stand alone sep unit. That's what I used and then instead of routing the air return to the intake I routed it to a gatorade bottle instead of the ground. The 616 model (as all sep units) did not get all the vapor which is why I put the fishing line inside the final bottle- then my engine compartment has less mess.
2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
(10-06-2014, 02:07 AM)mike-81-240d I cut the stock oil seperator out of the factory air box, and use it instead.Older 616 models have an exterior stand alone sep unit. That's what I used and then instead of routing the air return to the intake I routed it to a gatorade bottle instead of the ground. The 616 model (as all sep units) did not get all the vapor which is why I put the fishing line inside the final bottle- then my engine compartment has less mess.
2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
10-07-2014, 11:31 PM
#18
(10-07-2014, 05:21 AM)MTUPower(10-06-2014, 02:07 AM)mike-81-240d I cut the stock oil seperator out of the factory air box, and use it instead.Older 616 models have an exterior stand alone sep unit. That's what I used and then instead of routing the air return to the intake I routed it to a gatorade bottle instead of the ground. The 616 model (as all sep units) did not get all the vapor which is why I put the fishing line inside the final bottle- then my engine compartment has less mess.
Time to go hunting at the junk yards...
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
mike-81-240d
10-07-2014, 11:31 PM #18(10-07-2014, 05:21 AM)MTUPower(10-06-2014, 02:07 AM)mike-81-240d I cut the stock oil seperator out of the factory air box, and use it instead.Older 616 models have an exterior stand alone sep unit. That's what I used and then instead of routing the air return to the intake I routed it to a gatorade bottle instead of the ground. The 616 model (as all sep units) did not get all the vapor which is why I put the fishing line inside the final bottle- then my engine compartment has less mess.
Time to go hunting at the junk yards...
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
10-08-2014, 08:05 PM
#19
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
i agree that the PCV is such a smaller volume than air intake that the effect on air temperature will be minimal.
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
Users browsing this thread:
15 Guest(s)
15 Guest(s)
Users browsing this thread:
15 Guest(s)
15 Guest(s)