Captain's '82 300D Purists Must Die Prius Repellent
Captain's '82 300D Purists Must Die Prius Repellent
If you're crawling, why go to a manual trans? Just get a converter modded and you're good.
(03-25-2015, 06:53 AM)DanielK There's almost always a lower gear. Rev it out. lol.
I really want to get one of those 617/jeep trans adapters and put the trans/transfer case and axles from a jeep under a W123 wagon. Ultimate SUV.
(03-25-2015, 06:53 AM)DanielK There's almost always a lower gear. Rev it out. lol.
I really want to get one of those 617/jeep trans adapters and put the trans/transfer case and axles from a jeep under a W123 wagon. Ultimate SUV.
(03-26-2015, 12:48 PM)raysorenson If you're crawling, why go to a manual trans? Just get a converter modded and you're good.
(03-26-2015, 12:48 PM)raysorenson If you're crawling, why go to a manual trans? Just get a converter modded and you're good.
Last, I think, of the videos
There was that one time a little over a year ago that the B2 piston broke and I fixed that pile of shit
Couple Years ago at King Of The Hammers
Trip up to my local highest point 6000 ft.
Went up this hill bro runners cant even make!
Then I locked the diff because I got impatient!
Got fresh meat for the hammers Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrain 27x8.5/R14
My Tie Rods were HAMMERED so I made some quality ones haha!
Trashed the Flex disks and center support. that was only 245$$$$$$$$$$$$ fuck
KING OF THE HAMMERS 2015!!!
At the hill called Jackhammer
At Camp
At Top of Chocolate Thunder
Made it further up the sand dune than a 4 wheel drive 4runner. FUCK YOU JAPAN!
On the way home
Trans took a shit THE DAY AFTER king of the hammers So it sits at my work waiting for the AX15!
Bam AX15 for $450 and 50" Rigid radius light bar fo FREE
Got my adapter plate from Mercedes Diesel 4x4 . com
Will need to relocate shifter something like this as the shifter in the trans will be under the dash or 10" forward of the shifter in the car
Going to get flywheel and clutch next week along with peddles and rip that shit ass auto out next week!
(04-10-2015, 05:02 AM)DanielK Those tires are MEAT.
How'd you score the freebies?
I absolutely love this car.
(04-10-2015, 05:02 AM)DanielK Those tires are MEAT.
How'd you score the freebies?
I absolutely love this car.
Awesome. I love it.
What's your plan for the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate? The 240 flywheel with the stock 215mm clutch will not hold much.
(04-10-2015, 11:24 AM)led-panzer Awesome. I love it.
What's your plan for the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate? The 240 flywheel with the stock 215mm clutch will not hold much.
(04-10-2015, 11:24 AM)led-panzer Awesome. I love it.
What's your plan for the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate? The 240 flywheel with the stock 215mm clutch will not hold much.
(04-10-2015, 06:59 PM)DanielK Can you score some D44's? I found a W123 300TD with no glass for, get this, $50. Jussayin.
(04-10-2015, 06:59 PM)DanielK Can you score some D44's? I found a W123 300TD with no glass for, get this, $50. Jussayin.
(04-11-2015, 02:15 AM)DanielK Dana 44. The stock axles that come on Jeep Wranglers
(04-11-2015, 02:15 AM)DanielK Dana 44. The stock axles that come on Jeep Wranglers
BAM! Man peddles courtesy of DELIVERY VALVE!!!! Thank you sooooo much!
Nice! What else are you lacking to get the swap started?
P.S. those calipers aren't for the 300D also, are they?
(04-17-2015, 02:06 AM)turbojeep Nice! What else are you lacking to get the swap started?
P.S. those calipers aren't for the 300D also, are they?
(04-17-2015, 02:06 AM)turbojeep Nice! What else are you lacking to get the swap started?
P.S. those calipers aren't for the 300D also, are they?
(04-17-2015, 10:09 PM)wolverine Badass, cant wait to see the manual swap results :thumbsup:
Going the one piece driveshaft route? Or just shortening the front shaft and leaving the center bearing? With my T5 swap, the front shaft would have been about 8" long.
(04-17-2015, 10:09 PM)wolverine Badass, cant wait to see the manual swap results :thumbsup:
Going the one piece driveshaft route? Or just shortening the front shaft and leaving the center bearing? With my T5 swap, the front shaft would have been about 8" long.
Can you just get a 1310 yoke to diff adapter plate thing made up? I've been thinking it might be good to look in to, one for each end, and go one piece driveshaft. Would also be nice to have greasable u-joints haha
If you're going 1 piece, you need a sliding YOKE on the output shaft, lubed with egg YOLK. As I understand, a sliding yoke in the middle of the shaft, not the output shaft, will affect radial stability on a shaft long enough for the typical sedan. They're fine on jeeps and other 4x4's that take stubby drive shafts but not for us. A sliding yoke mounted in the shaft needs a larger diameter the longer the shaft gets. There's not enough room in the tunnel for the shifter and a 3" diameter shaft. Does that make any sense?
(04-22-2015, 07:27 PM)raysorenson If you're going 1 piece, you need a sliding YOKE on the output shaft, lubed with egg YOLK. As I understand, a sliding yoke in the middle of the shaft, not the output shaft, will affect radial stability on a shaft long enough for the typical sedan. They're fine on jeeps and other 4x4's that take stubby drive shafts but not for us. A sliding yoke mounted in the shaft needs a larger diameter the longer the shaft gets. There's not enough room in the tunnel for the shifter and a 3" diameter shaft. Does that make any sense?
(04-22-2015, 07:27 PM)raysorenson If you're going 1 piece, you need a sliding YOKE on the output shaft, lubed with egg YOLK. As I understand, a sliding yoke in the middle of the shaft, not the output shaft, will affect radial stability on a shaft long enough for the typical sedan. They're fine on jeeps and other 4x4's that take stubby drive shafts but not for us. A sliding yoke mounted in the shaft needs a larger diameter the longer the shaft gets. There's not enough room in the tunnel for the shifter and a 3" diameter shaft. Does that make any sense?
The point was you need a splined output on the trans for a slip yoke on a 1 piece shaft that long.
As for the spelling, I'd prefer an asshole on the web correct me than I go around saying "yolk this" and "yolk that" at work in front of a bunch of colleagues who know better but won't correct me to my face. If you think I did you a bad turn, apologies.
(04-23-2015, 06:01 PM)raysorenson The point was you need a splined output on the trans for a slip yoke on a 1 piece shaft that long.
As for the spelling, I'd prefer an asshole on the web correct me than I go around saying "yolk this" and "yolk that" at work in front of a bunch of colleagues who know better but won't correct me to my face. If you think I did you a bad turn, apologies.
(04-23-2015, 06:01 PM)raysorenson The point was you need a splined output on the trans for a slip yoke on a 1 piece shaft that long.
As for the spelling, I'd prefer an asshole on the web correct me than I go around saying "yolk this" and "yolk that" at work in front of a bunch of colleagues who know better but won't correct me to my face. If you think I did you a bad turn, apologies.
So anyway I beat the dents out of my lower oil pan and replaced the oil pump pickup with a new one from the dealer because it was cracked.
Then I decided to see if the trans would behave and it did! So fuck it I started driving it again until I had time for the trans swap.
Until the other day I was 10 miles from home and it started running really weird. i popped the hood and some injector return lines were leaking I also checked the oil level and it was full... well as I started driving it was getting worse ...
Now it occurs to me that its running like its low on oil pressure. so long story short by the time I baby it home it acts like it is seizing. Well fuck me right? I triple check and there is plenty of oil in the pan but something must have happened (maybe with the new pickup)??? I don't know I'm so confused. I come out today, replaced the return line and start the bitch up and it acts like normal. I have no oil pressure gauge so I popped the fill cap and look at the cam. THERE IS oil squirting on it like normal but that may mean nothing who knows? I let it warm up a few min and bring up the idle (everything seemed fine at this point) and bam.... There's the rod knock. So guess I'm looking for a donor engine or will rebuild this fucker!
Damn! What a kick to the balls! Sorry to hear (the story and the knock)!
I hope you find parts cheap nearby, but if not I know of a turbo short block (unknown miles but clean) that's soon to be available on the east coast.
(05-17-2015, 06:21 AM)CRD4x4 Damn! What a kick to the balls! Sorry to hear (the story and the knock)!
I hope you find parts cheap nearby, but if not I know of a turbo short block (unknown miles but clean) that's soon to be available on the east coast.
(05-17-2015, 09:43 AM)atypicalguy I can put u in touch with a guy in phoenix with some motors.
(05-17-2015, 11:35 AM)OM616 The video sounded more like valve train noise than a rod to me. You might just pull the cover and see if an adjustment nut came loose.
(05-17-2015, 06:21 AM)CRD4x4 Damn! What a kick to the balls! Sorry to hear (the story and the knock)!
I hope you find parts cheap nearby, but if not I know of a turbo short block (unknown miles but clean) that's soon to be available on the east coast.
(05-17-2015, 09:43 AM)atypicalguy I can put u in touch with a guy in phoenix with some motors.
(05-17-2015, 11:35 AM)OM616 The video sounded more like valve train noise than a rod to me. You might just pull the cover and see if an adjustment nut came loose.
This time around I for sure want something that I know or can verify history of... This will be the third engine for this car and while this engine was extremely clean the milage was somewhat unknown and I had ran it out of oil once before which I knew made it a ticking time bomb for some thing like this to happen. Honestly I'm surprised it lasted this long, I probably put this thing through more hell than most people out there or even on this forum!
That is why I am leaning towards rebuilding it if the parts are still OK (crank, rods, pistons, can, block) the other stuff like valves and sleeves are cheap and I'd rather have something fresh!
The rebuild sounds attractive, but expensive. You could have a 606 for that.
That's what I'm thinking as well. Seems like for the money you could keep the MB diesel factor and scrounge up some more power.
(05-17-2015, 09:28 PM)atypicalguy The rebuild sounds attractive, but expensive. You could have a 606 for that.
(05-17-2015, 09:55 PM)turbojeep That's what I'm thinking as well. Seems like for the money you could keep the MB diesel factor and scrounge up some more power.
(05-17-2015, 09:28 PM)atypicalguy The rebuild sounds attractive, but expensive. You could have a 606 for that.
(05-17-2015, 09:55 PM)turbojeep That's what I'm thinking as well. Seems like for the money you could keep the MB diesel factor and scrounge up some more power.
$1K isn't too bad. If you could get it back together for close to that, rebuild sounds like the way to go.
All the same, I'd suggest you do some browsing to see what it would run you to make the jump to the OM606. You could sell off your prechambers, your IP (it has 10mm elements, right?), exhaust, etc... The intercooler and trans can be made to for without much trouble, I'd think.
Well, maybe all you need is a new set of smal end bearings... Looks like you've not driven much with the damaged bearings. Could be a cheap fix, if the cylinder bores & crank journals are still within specification. Hone, re-ring, new bearings and on you go! Doesn't always have to be a "full" rebuild (it's nice, no doubt about that!).
(05-18-2015, 10:16 AM)turbojeep $1K isn't too bad. If you could get it back together for close to that, rebuild sounds like the way to go.
All the same, I'd suggest you do some browsing to see what it would run you to make the jump to the OM606. You could sell off your prechambers, your IP (it has 10mm elements, right?), exhaust, etc... The intercooler and trans can be made to for without much trouble, I'd think.
(05-18-2015, 11:42 AM)DiseaselWeasel Well, maybe all you need is a new set of smal end bearings... Looks like you've not driven much with the damaged bearings. Could be a cheap fix, if the cylinder bores & crank journals are still within specification. Hone, re-ring, new bearings and on you go! Doesn't always have to be a "full" rebuild (it's nice, no doubt about that!).
(05-18-2015, 10:16 AM)turbojeep $1K isn't too bad. If you could get it back together for close to that, rebuild sounds like the way to go.
All the same, I'd suggest you do some browsing to see what it would run you to make the jump to the OM606. You could sell off your prechambers, your IP (it has 10mm elements, right?), exhaust, etc... The intercooler and trans can be made to for without much trouble, I'd think.
(05-18-2015, 11:42 AM)DiseaselWeasel Well, maybe all you need is a new set of smal end bearings... Looks like you've not driven much with the damaged bearings. Could be a cheap fix, if the cylinder bores & crank journals are still within specification. Hone, re-ring, new bearings and on you go! Doesn't always have to be a "full" rebuild (it's nice, no doubt about that!).
(05-19-2015, 03:20 PM)Captain America(05-18-2015, 10:16 AM)turbojeep $1K isn't too bad. If you could get it back together for close to that, rebuild sounds like the way to go.
All the same, I'd suggest you do some browsing to see what it would run you to make the jump to the OM606. You could sell off your prechambers, your IP (it has 10mm elements, right?), exhaust, etc... The intercooler and trans can be made to for without much trouble, I'd think.
(05-18-2015, 11:42 AM)DiseaselWeasel Well, maybe all you need is a new set of smal end bearings... Looks like you've not driven much with the damaged bearings. Could be a cheap fix, if the cylinder bores & crank journals are still within specification. Hone, re-ring, new bearings and on you go! Doesn't always have to be a "full" rebuild (it's nice, no doubt about that!).
points gentlemen! I will know in a few days time what direction I'll be headed!
(05-19-2015, 03:20 PM)Captain America(05-18-2015, 10:16 AM)turbojeep $1K isn't too bad. If you could get it back together for close to that, rebuild sounds like the way to go.
All the same, I'd suggest you do some browsing to see what it would run you to make the jump to the OM606. You could sell off your prechambers, your IP (it has 10mm elements, right?), exhaust, etc... The intercooler and trans can be made to for without much trouble, I'd think.
(05-18-2015, 11:42 AM)DiseaselWeasel Well, maybe all you need is a new set of smal end bearings... Looks like you've not driven much with the damaged bearings. Could be a cheap fix, if the cylinder bores & crank journals are still within specification. Hone, re-ring, new bearings and on you go! Doesn't always have to be a "full" rebuild (it's nice, no doubt about that!).
points gentlemen! I will know in a few days time what direction I'll be headed!
(05-20-2015, 09:02 PM)atypicalguy You don't know much until you have it apart.
(05-20-2015, 09:02 PM)atypicalguy You don't know much until you have it apart.
(05-22-2015, 06:28 AM)DanielK Pop your oil pump off and give it a good look. You might've gotten a shit pump that is temperamental.
(05-22-2015, 06:28 AM)DanielK Pop your oil pump off and give it a good look. You might've gotten a shit pump that is temperamental.
Well fuck, that sucks man. Heres to ya getting something back in it and rolling soon :beers:
During my rebuild I bought two extra shortblocks and have a few decent internal parts left over. If you rebuild what you got and need some of those unobtanium hard parts, hit me up, you can have them.