German Tranny Hardparts
German Tranny Hardparts
I am not sure if its cool to link to other sites or not, but I just got off the phone with a dude named Jergen at a place called Jaggi Import Export about rebuilding my extra 4-speed... Anyway, he was a really helpful dude and suggested that instead of shipping my spare trans to him (for a full rebuild), to inspect it first and see what (if anything) is wrong with it. He has a lot of parts on hand, but was pretty sure that if I needed any hard parts, he could source them direct from Germany... Anyway, here's their website:
http://www.jie.com/
again, I dont want to step on any toes, so if theres already a trans shop linked to this site, I appologize.
Josh
You should ask if he can upgrade the 722.3 automatics using the V12 parts.
(05-26-2009, 03:22 PM)SurfRodder again, I dont want to step on any toes, so if theres already a trans shop linked to thisWe don't play those silly reindeer games here. Classic parts can get them as well. I need plenty of parts for my 5spd. I have been waiting for a 4spd to show up at the junkyard before I pull mine apart. One of the other members is working on getting the teardown/rebuild instructions from MBZ I believe.
(05-26-2009, 03:22 PM)SurfRodder again, I dont want to step on any toes, so if theres already a trans shop linked to thisWe don't play those silly reindeer games here. Classic parts can get them as well. I need plenty of parts for my 5spd. I have been waiting for a 4spd to show up at the junkyard before I pull mine apart. One of the other members is working on getting the teardown/rebuild instructions from MBZ I believe.
(05-26-2009, 05:57 PM)winmutt We don't play those silly reindeer games here.
(05-26-2009, 05:57 PM)winmutt We don't play those silly reindeer games here.
Late 1984 and all 1985 models have a different sized bearing hole. The pilot bearing only comes into play when the clutch is pressed, the rest of the time its not doing anything but keeping input shaft alignment.
The best ways around it are either machining the crankshaft to accept a normal bearing or finding a bearing with the correct dimensions. Forcing a normal one in there may have cracked or warped the bearing race and put the input shaft slightly off center.
(05-27-2009, 01:43 AM)ForcedInduction The pilot bearing only comes into play when the clutch is pressed, the rest of the time its not doing anything but keeping input shaft alignment.
(05-27-2009, 01:43 AM)ForcedInduction The pilot bearing only comes into play when the clutch is pressed, the rest of the time its not doing anything but keeping input shaft alignment.
The vibration around 1500rpm is actually resonating. MB put a damper on the driveshaft to help solve that problem.
That part is no longer available new (I tried) and the suggested repair by MB is to leave it off. The best solution is to try and not run the engine in that 1000-1500rpm RPM range anyways since its well below its torque peak.
(05-27-2009, 12:53 PM)ForcedInduction That part is no longer available new (I tried)
(05-27-2009, 12:53 PM)ForcedInduction That part is no longer available new (I tried)
Forced Meyle lists it in there 2007 catalog as
Meyle p# 014 041 0000
Mercedes p# 123 411 17 47
For Stufenh./Sedan (W123)
So it should still be available
On a side note, they have a manual tranny gasket set too, as p# 014 026 0017
(05-27-2009, 12:53 PM)ForcedInduction The vibration around 1500rpm is actually resonating. MB put a damper on the driveshaft to help solve that problem.
(05-27-2009, 12:53 PM)ForcedInduction The best solution is to try and not run the engine in that 1000-1500rpm RPM range anyways since its well below its torque peak.
(05-27-2009, 12:53 PM)ForcedInduction The vibration around 1500rpm is actually resonating. MB put a damper on the driveshaft to help solve that problem.
(05-27-2009, 12:53 PM)ForcedInduction The best solution is to try and not run the engine in that 1000-1500rpm RPM range anyways since its well below its torque peak.
(05-27-2009, 12:53 PM)ForcedInduction The vibration around 1500rpm is actually resonating. MB put a damper on the driveshaft to help solve that problem.
(05-27-2009, 12:53 PM)ForcedInduction The vibration around 1500rpm is actually resonating. MB put a damper on the driveshaft to help solve that problem.
Its from elsewhere.
I've got a damper from a euro 300D, I'm using the driveshaft from said euro but I didn't have the time to slightly bend the linkages to clear the damper when I was installing the new tranny (I still use modified 240D linkages, not the euro).
huh... I guess if I ever come across one of these, ill have to have another go at making my 'custom' linkages form allthread, this time with proper metric rod and OEM end pieces... last time didnt work out so hot with the 3/8' allthread and modified clevis yokes...
The 84 300SD I got the NSS off of has a damper on the driveshaft as well. Its about 1/2 the size of the manual 300D's though.
(07-15-2009, 12:27 AM)SurfRodder huh... I guess if I ever come across one of these, ill have to have another go at making my 'custom' linkages form allthread, this time with proper metric rod and OEM end pieces... last time didnt work out so hot with the 3/8' allthread and modified clevis yokes...
(07-15-2009, 12:27 AM)SurfRodder huh... I guess if I ever come across one of these, ill have to have another go at making my 'custom' linkages form allthread, this time with proper metric rod and OEM end pieces... last time didnt work out so hot with the 3/8' allthread and modified clevis yokes...
(07-15-2009, 02:32 AM)Syncro_G why don't you just take a stock rock, cut it in 1/2, thread the new ends and put a threaded sleeve over them. back it up at both ends with lock nuts.
that seems like it would be cheapest and give you all the adjustment you need.
(07-15-2009, 02:32 AM)Syncro_G why don't you just take a stock rock, cut it in 1/2, thread the new ends and put a threaded sleeve over them. back it up at both ends with lock nuts.
that seems like it would be cheapest and give you all the adjustment you need.
(07-12-2009, 04:26 PM)ForcedInduction I've got a damper from a euro 300D, I'm using the driveshaft from said euro but I didn't have the time to slightly bend the linkages to clear the damper when I was installing the new tranny (I still use modified 240D linkages, not the euro).
(07-12-2009, 04:26 PM)ForcedInduction I've got a damper from a euro 300D, I'm using the driveshaft from said euro but I didn't have the time to slightly bend the linkages to clear the damper when I was installing the new tranny (I still use modified 240D linkages, not the euro).
Its a different part that bolts onto the back of the tri-flange. The driveshaft has to be pulled out of the slip joint to install it.
i emailed the dude and sent him the picture above to see if he thinks it's feasible/what price... if he thinks he can make them for ~100 bux, would you send him the original?
(10-27-2009, 05:49 AM)SurfRodder i emailed the dude and sent him the picture above to see if he thinks it's feasible/what price... if he thinks he can make them for ~100 bux, would you send him the original?
(10-27-2009, 05:49 AM)SurfRodder i emailed the dude and sent him the picture above to see if he thinks it's feasible/what price... if he thinks he can make them for ~100 bux, would you send him the original?
(10-27-2009, 03:18 PM)ForcedInduction I'll have to track it down. I've got the 280E 5-speed's damper here but I don't have the 300D's at the moment. Its probably buried in one of my toolbox drawers.
(10-27-2009, 03:18 PM)ForcedInduction I'll have to track it down. I've got the 280E 5-speed's damper here but I don't have the 300D's at the moment. Its probably buried in one of my toolbox drawers.