Gearbox Controller 722.6 ver 2
Gearbox Controller 722.6 ver 2
08-17-2015, 06:07 PM
#151
(08-16-2015, 11:31 AM)olefejer Yes correct it is a LOGIC problem,
As when the car is stationary, the N -> D is handlet one way, even the 3-4 shift valve is used to give smoother "Garage Shift",
Also a check regarding if it is, first or Second gear we have first time in "D" if second gear it is corrected. to first.
Also as the Controller can run width no external speed sensor it is Essential that i know what gear we are in, to calculate speed correct. if you move to N i am lost.
Well anything can be fixed it is but it would be a rather big effort width not that big of an advantage.
But ok i can follow you if someone is used to push in N when running down hill i can see it is irritating
ok, but if i got a external speedsensor? like an ABS sensor in the differential, or one or both of the front wheels perhaps?
il just have to convince him to leave the shifter the fuck alone
thanks
---------------------------------
daily driver
w115 240d 72hp 3.07 rearend
w123 om602 turbo 200whp 7.5mm pump fivespeed 3.07 rearend
+ a few more.
mbturbo.com
swampmonkey
08-17-2015, 06:07 PM #151(08-16-2015, 11:31 AM)olefejer Yes correct it is a LOGIC problem,
As when the car is stationary, the N -> D is handlet one way, even the 3-4 shift valve is used to give smoother "Garage Shift",
Also a check regarding if it is, first or Second gear we have first time in "D" if second gear it is corrected. to first.
Also as the Controller can run width no external speed sensor it is Essential that i know what gear we are in, to calculate speed correct. if you move to N i am lost.
Well anything can be fixed it is but it would be a rather big effort width not that big of an advantage.
But ok i can follow you if someone is used to push in N when running down hill i can see it is irritating
ok, but if i got a external speedsensor? like an ABS sensor in the differential, or one or both of the front wheels perhaps?
il just have to convince him to leave the shifter the fuck alone
thanks
---------------------------------
daily driver
w115 240d 72hp 3.07 rearend
w123 om602 turbo 200whp 7.5mm pump fivespeed 3.07 rearend
+ a few more.
mbturbo.com
08-17-2015, 06:44 PM
#152
87 300SDL OM606 swapped HE351VE 722.633 swapped, Crower cams, KM valvesprings
76 300TD custom lots of stuff
06 Mercedes CL65 AMG 619 WHP, http://TurboTims.com
I think at some point you are going to need a separate forum for your controller. So I got my VNT working now but with the sensors I purchased from you what is the max boost I can get? Right now I am only getting roughly 30psi with the controller working and controlling it. When I just manually was working the vanes I was able to shut them more and get higher boost and back pressure and the car felt a lot faster. Am I able to make the controller have a difference of at least 10psi backpressure to get boost higher and building quicker? Anyone else using the controller to control their VNT turbo?
87 300SDL OM606 swapped HE351VE 722.633 swapped, Crower cams, KM valvesprings
76 300TD custom lots of stuff
06 Mercedes CL65 AMG 619 WHP, http://TurboTims.com
08-18-2015, 02:59 PM
#153
(08-17-2015, 06:07 PM)swampmonkeyYes that is a good idea ;-)(08-16-2015, 11:31 AM)olefejer Yes correct it is a LOGIC problem,
As when the car is stationary, the N -> D is handlet one way, even the 3-4 shift valve is used to give smoother "Garage Shift",
Also a check regarding if it is, first or Second gear we have first time in "D" if second gear it is corrected. to first.
Also as the Controller can run width no external speed sensor it is Essential that i know what gear we are in, to calculate speed correct. if you move to N i am lost.
Well anything can be fixed it is but it would be a rather big effort width not that big of an advantage.
But ok i can follow you if someone is used to push in N when running down hill i can see it is irritating
ok, but if i got a external speedsensor? like an ABS sensor in the differential, or one or both of the front wheels perhaps?
il just have to convince him to leave the shifter the fuck alone
thanks
And yes you can use any inductiv sensor as speed input.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(08-17-2015, 06:07 PM)swampmonkeyYes that is a good idea ;-)(08-16-2015, 11:31 AM)olefejer Yes correct it is a LOGIC problem,
As when the car is stationary, the N -> D is handlet one way, even the 3-4 shift valve is used to give smoother "Garage Shift",
Also a check regarding if it is, first or Second gear we have first time in "D" if second gear it is corrected. to first.
Also as the Controller can run width no external speed sensor it is Essential that i know what gear we are in, to calculate speed correct. if you move to N i am lost.
Well anything can be fixed it is but it would be a rather big effort width not that big of an advantage.
But ok i can follow you if someone is used to push in N when running down hill i can see it is irritating
ok, but if i got a external speedsensor? like an ABS sensor in the differential, or one or both of the front wheels perhaps?
il just have to convince him to leave the shifter the fuck alone
thanks
And yes you can use any inductiv sensor as speed input.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
08-18-2015, 03:07 PM
#154
(08-17-2015, 06:44 PM)TurboTim I think at some point you are going to need a separate forum for your controller. So I got my VNT working now but with the sensors I purchased from you what is the max boost I can get? Right now I am only getting roughly 30psi with the controller working and controlling it. When I just manually was working the vanes I was able to shut them more and get higher boost and back pressure and the car felt a lot faster. Am I able to make the controller have a difference of at least 10psi backpressure to get boost higher and building quicker? Anyone else using the controller to control their VNT turbo?
Yes correct
I have now made a webpage but no forum yet
www.ofgear.dk
Why you vanes are not closed i do not know, but try to mail me a picture of the the Boost page.
Go to "Live data" press rigth on the joystick one more time then you have the "Live Boost page".
And have the engine at idle. when you take the picture.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(08-17-2015, 06:44 PM)TurboTim I think at some point you are going to need a separate forum for your controller. So I got my VNT working now but with the sensors I purchased from you what is the max boost I can get? Right now I am only getting roughly 30psi with the controller working and controlling it. When I just manually was working the vanes I was able to shut them more and get higher boost and back pressure and the car felt a lot faster. Am I able to make the controller have a difference of at least 10psi backpressure to get boost higher and building quicker? Anyone else using the controller to control their VNT turbo?
Yes correct
I have now made a webpage but no forum yet
www.ofgear.dk
Why you vanes are not closed i do not know, but try to mail me a picture of the the Boost page.
Go to "Live data" press rigth on the joystick one more time then you have the "Live Boost page".
And have the engine at idle. when you take the picture.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
08-18-2015, 03:16 PM
#155
87 300SDL OM606 swapped HE351VE 722.633 swapped, Crower cams, KM valvesprings
76 300TD custom lots of stuff
06 Mercedes CL65 AMG 619 WHP, http://TurboTims.com
The vanes are closing but I want them to stay closed until it reaches more boost. It seems like they are opening up too early. How do I raise the boost limit. Can you just answer that?
87 300SDL OM606 swapped HE351VE 722.633 swapped, Crower cams, KM valvesprings
76 300TD custom lots of stuff
06 Mercedes CL65 AMG 619 WHP, http://TurboTims.com
08-18-2015, 03:25 PM
#156
(08-18-2015, 03:16 PM)TurboTim The vanes are closing but I want them to stay closed until it reaches more boost. It seems like they are opening up too early. How do I raise the boost limit. Can you just answer that?
Hi
There is a video on this page, that explain it, i hope
Go to 26 sec
http://ofgear.dk/userguide/boostcontrol.html
But go in to "TPS -> deltaP" instead of the "TPS -> Boost" shown in the video
(here you can set wanted EGP higher then boost) i think it is set to 0,3 bar today, try to set to 0,5
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(08-18-2015, 03:16 PM)TurboTim The vanes are closing but I want them to stay closed until it reaches more boost. It seems like they are opening up too early. How do I raise the boost limit. Can you just answer that?
Hi
There is a video on this page, that explain it, i hope
Go to 26 sec
http://ofgear.dk/userguide/boostcontrol.html
But go in to "TPS -> deltaP" instead of the "TPS -> Boost" shown in the video
(here you can set wanted EGP higher then boost) i think it is set to 0,3 bar today, try to set to 0,5
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
08-21-2015, 01:06 PM
#158
I think we all need more detailed instructiom about calibration and they reliance to eath other. I mean line pressure, firmness, temperature coeff.
One more thing - i did have floating zero point TPS DAC readout 96 to 124 in random times. and from zero to 10-12% jump. I'm not be able to fix any point in that range. I have replace 7805 DPAC to D2PAC - the problem with 0-10% has elminated.
I think we all need more detailed instructiom about calibration and they reliance to eath other. I mean line pressure, firmness, temperature coeff.
08-22-2015, 07:28 AM
#159
(08-18-2015, 02:59 PM)olefejer(08-17-2015, 06:07 PM)swampmonkey ok, but if i got a external speedsensor? like an ABS sensor in the differential, or one or both of the front wheels perhaps?Yes that is a good idea ;-)
il just have to convince him to leave the shifter the fuck alone
thanks
And yes you can use any inductiv sensor as speed input.
but i take it your system doesnt support it huh? :/
if im acctually getting the v12 build up and running, connecting ABS sensors would be 1% of the work for me, and al the other extra work im going throu, i think it might be worth it going al the way with the build
---------------------------------
daily driver
w115 240d 72hp 3.07 rearend
w123 om602 turbo 200whp 7.5mm pump fivespeed 3.07 rearend
+ a few more.
mbturbo.com
swampmonkey
08-22-2015, 07:28 AM #159(08-18-2015, 02:59 PM)olefejer(08-17-2015, 06:07 PM)swampmonkey ok, but if i got a external speedsensor? like an ABS sensor in the differential, or one or both of the front wheels perhaps?Yes that is a good idea ;-)
il just have to convince him to leave the shifter the fuck alone
thanks
And yes you can use any inductiv sensor as speed input.
but i take it your system doesnt support it huh? :/
if im acctually getting the v12 build up and running, connecting ABS sensors would be 1% of the work for me, and al the other extra work im going throu, i think it might be worth it going al the way with the build
---------------------------------
daily driver
w115 240d 72hp 3.07 rearend
w123 om602 turbo 200whp 7.5mm pump fivespeed 3.07 rearend
+ a few more.
mbturbo.com
08-22-2015, 09:55 AM
#160
(08-21-2015, 01:06 PM)jupel One more thing - i did have floating zero point TPS DAC readout 96 to 124 in random times. and from zero to 10-12% jump. I'm not be able to fix any point in that range. I have replace 7805 DPAC to D2PAC - the problem with 0-10% has elminated.
I think we all need more detailed instructiom about calibration and they reliance to eath other. I mean line pressure, firmness, temperature coeff.
Ok so you think yuo had a bad 7805 chip, that have not seen before, and they only supply max 10% of what they are able to ?, but if it fixed it great :-)
Yes i know my explanation on how to adjust Firmness is kind of crap, i will try to make a better one.
But actually there is more thing that can be adjusted in the menu, but should newer be changed,
But always adjust firmness when gearbox is at normal temperatur 70 - 90 deg C.
And should work fine, if you only change the firmness in the gear in question, nothing else need to be changed.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(08-21-2015, 01:06 PM)jupel One more thing - i did have floating zero point TPS DAC readout 96 to 124 in random times. and from zero to 10-12% jump. I'm not be able to fix any point in that range. I have replace 7805 DPAC to D2PAC - the problem with 0-10% has elminated.
I think we all need more detailed instructiom about calibration and they reliance to eath other. I mean line pressure, firmness, temperature coeff.
Ok so you think yuo had a bad 7805 chip, that have not seen before, and they only supply max 10% of what they are able to ?, but if it fixed it great :-)
Yes i know my explanation on how to adjust Firmness is kind of crap, i will try to make a better one.
But actually there is more thing that can be adjusted in the menu, but should newer be changed,
But always adjust firmness when gearbox is at normal temperatur 70 - 90 deg C.
And should work fine, if you only change the firmness in the gear in question, nothing else need to be changed.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
08-22-2015, 10:04 AM
#161
(08-22-2015, 07:28 AM)swampmonkeyThe system support inductive sensors. for external speed and RPM. if that is what you mean ;-)(08-18-2015, 02:59 PM)olefejer(08-17-2015, 06:07 PM)swampmonkey ok, but if i got a external speedsensor? like an ABS sensor in the differential, or one or both of the front wheels perhaps?Yes that is a good idea ;-)
il just have to convince him to leave the shifter the fuck alone
thanks
And yes you can use any inductiv sensor as speed input.
but i take it your system doesnt support it huh? :/
if im acctually getting the v12 build up and running, connecting ABS sensors would be 1% of the work for me, and al the other extra work im going throu, i think it might be worth it going al the way with the build
Where they are mounted does not matter, it can be on a wheel hub or on the propellershaft, if just signal are linear width speed of the car
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(08-22-2015, 07:28 AM)swampmonkeyThe system support inductive sensors. for external speed and RPM. if that is what you mean ;-)(08-18-2015, 02:59 PM)olefejer(08-17-2015, 06:07 PM)swampmonkey ok, but if i got a external speedsensor? like an ABS sensor in the differential, or one or both of the front wheels perhaps?Yes that is a good idea ;-)
il just have to convince him to leave the shifter the fuck alone
thanks
And yes you can use any inductiv sensor as speed input.
but i take it your system doesnt support it huh? :/
if im acctually getting the v12 build up and running, connecting ABS sensors would be 1% of the work for me, and al the other extra work im going throu, i think it might be worth it going al the way with the build
Where they are mounted does not matter, it can be on a wheel hub or on the propellershaft, if just signal are linear width speed of the car
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
08-23-2015, 06:21 PM
#162
(08-22-2015, 10:04 AM)olefejer(08-22-2015, 07:28 AM)swampmonkeyThe system support inductive sensors. for external speed and RPM. if that is what you mean ;-)(08-18-2015, 02:59 PM)olefejer Yes that is a good idea ;-)
And yes you can use any inductiv sensor as speed input.
but i take it your system doesnt support it huh? :/
if im acctually getting the v12 build up and running, connecting ABS sensors would be 1% of the work for me, and al the other extra work im going throu, i think it might be worth it going al the way with the build
Where they are mounted does not matter, it can be on a wheel hub or on the propellershaft, if just signal are linear width speed of the car
yeah, but even with an external speedsensor, not possible to put the gearbox-leaver in neutral? a lot of programmin that is unncessary?
i thought the lack of external speedsensor was the reason D to Neutral and back while moving fast wasnt possible?
---------------------------------
daily driver
w115 240d 72hp 3.07 rearend
w123 om602 turbo 200whp 7.5mm pump fivespeed 3.07 rearend
+ a few more.
mbturbo.com
swampmonkey
08-23-2015, 06:21 PM #162(08-22-2015, 10:04 AM)olefejer(08-22-2015, 07:28 AM)swampmonkeyThe system support inductive sensors. for external speed and RPM. if that is what you mean ;-)(08-18-2015, 02:59 PM)olefejer Yes that is a good idea ;-)
And yes you can use any inductiv sensor as speed input.
but i take it your system doesnt support it huh? :/
if im acctually getting the v12 build up and running, connecting ABS sensors would be 1% of the work for me, and al the other extra work im going throu, i think it might be worth it going al the way with the build
Where they are mounted does not matter, it can be on a wheel hub or on the propellershaft, if just signal are linear width speed of the car
yeah, but even with an external speedsensor, not possible to put the gearbox-leaver in neutral? a lot of programmin that is unncessary?
i thought the lack of external speedsensor was the reason D to Neutral and back while moving fast wasnt possible?
---------------------------------
daily driver
w115 240d 72hp 3.07 rearend
w123 om602 turbo 200whp 7.5mm pump fivespeed 3.07 rearend
+ a few more.
mbturbo.com
08-24-2015, 01:58 PM
#163
) I'm really considering this mod. I'm currently owning a W114 which I'm converting to a OM606. It's going to be twin charged (either 2 parallel turbo's or supercharger, haven't decided yet). I was thinking about a manual but my first STD i've converted to manual kinda et me down.... The boost wasn't instant no more and the gearbox + clutch broke down.
So I'm researching in the 722.6xx gearboxes. I can find a lot of 722.626 (270CDI / 320CDI I believe) but those are probably W5A380 right? I would really like a 580 one. How can I figure out the numbers? Is there any kind of chart somewhere? I can get a 55AMG gearbox but its more pricey and I need to decide quick.
Edit: 722.643 is the AMG gearbox.
Second, I need Olefejers controller of course... It lets me run the gearbox stand alone. But do I need the shifter also? or can I just hook up the old gear selector and use something like microswitches at the steering wheel or a separate shifter? And basically what do I need more to make the tranny work in an ancient car
Whats the price of the controller?
Thank for your help!
This post was last modified: 08-24-2015, 02:01 PM by Tito.
Hello everybody ( and Olefejer )
I'm really considering this mod. I'm currently owning a W114 which I'm converting to a OM606. It's going to be twin charged (either 2 parallel turbo's or supercharger, haven't decided yet). I was thinking about a manual but my first STD i've converted to manual kinda et me down.... The boost wasn't instant no more and the gearbox + clutch broke down.
So I'm researching in the 722.6xx gearboxes. I can find a lot of 722.626 (270CDI / 320CDI I believe) but those are probably W5A380 right? I would really like a 580 one. How can I figure out the numbers? Is there any kind of chart somewhere? I can get a 55AMG gearbox but its more pricey and I need to decide quick.
Edit: 722.643 is the AMG gearbox.
Second, I need Olefejers controller of course... It lets me run the gearbox stand alone. But do I need the shifter also? or can I just hook up the old gear selector and use something like microswitches at the steering wheel or a separate shifter? And basically what do I need more to make the tranny work in an ancient car
Whats the price of the controller?
Thank for your help!
08-24-2015, 02:05 PM
#164
(08-23-2015, 06:21 PM)swampmonkeyCorrect it would not work, External speed or not.(08-22-2015, 10:04 AM)olefejer(08-22-2015, 07:28 AM)swampmonkey but i take it your system doesnt support it huh? :/The system support inductive sensors. for external speed and RPM. if that is what you mean ;-)
if im acctually getting the v12 build up and running, connecting ABS sensors would be 1% of the work for me, and al the other extra work im going throu, i think it might be worth it going al the way with the build
Where they are mounted does not matter, it can be on a wheel hub or on the propellershaft, if just signal are linear width speed of the car
yeah, but even with an external speedsensor, not possible to put the gearbox-leaver in neutral? a lot of programmin that is unncessary?
i thought the lack of external speedsensor was the reason D to Neutral and back while moving fast wasnt possible?
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(08-23-2015, 06:21 PM)swampmonkeyCorrect it would not work, External speed or not.(08-22-2015, 10:04 AM)olefejer(08-22-2015, 07:28 AM)swampmonkey but i take it your system doesnt support it huh? :/The system support inductive sensors. for external speed and RPM. if that is what you mean ;-)
if im acctually getting the v12 build up and running, connecting ABS sensors would be 1% of the work for me, and al the other extra work im going throu, i think it might be worth it going al the way with the build
Where they are mounted does not matter, it can be on a wheel hub or on the propellershaft, if just signal are linear width speed of the car
yeah, but even with an external speedsensor, not possible to put the gearbox-leaver in neutral? a lot of programmin that is unncessary?
i thought the lack of external speedsensor was the reason D to Neutral and back while moving fast wasnt possible?
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
08-24-2015, 02:17 PM
#165
(08-24-2015, 01:58 PM)Tito Hello everybody ( and OlefejerHi
I'm really considering this mod. I'm currently owning a W114 which I'm converting to a OM606. It's going to be twin charged (either 2 parallel turbo's or supercharger, haven't decided yet). I was thinking about a manual but my first STD i've converted to manual kinda et me down.... The boost wasn't instant no more and the gearbox + clutch broke down.
So I'm researching in the 722.6xx gearboxes. I can find a lot of 722.626 (270CDI / 320CDI I believe) but those are probably W5A380 right? I would really like a 580 one. How can I figure out the numbers? Is there any kind of chart somewhere? I can get a 55AMG gearbox but its more pricey and I need to decide quick.
Edit: 722.643 is the AMG gearbox.
Second, I need Olefejers controller of course... It lets me run the gearbox stand alone. But do I need the shifter also? or can I just hook up the old gear selector and use something like microswitches at the steering wheel or a separate shifter? And basically what do I need more to make the tranny work in an ancient car
Whats the price of the controller?
Thank for your help!
Yes both 270CDI and 320CDI is both big NAG but take the 270CDI then it fits you engine, no change of bell housing
Yes you should mount a new Gear Lever, if the one from W210 cars or the smaller from C202 fits the W114 the best i do not know
but you need a Gear LEver to move mecanically between PRND. that is a must.
OK the controller can work width No Gear Lever but you loose the standart functions, and the W/S switch
www.ofgear.dk/userguide/gearlever.html
You also need a TPS sensor
www.ofgear.dk/userguide/tps.html
And yes Paddle / micro switches in the steering wheel for manual control.
If you have the Gearbox number, you can take a look here to see what it is you have
http://ofgear.dk/generalinfo/gearboxinfo.html
Prices is in the shop
www.ofgear.dk/Shop.ehtml
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(08-24-2015, 01:58 PM)Tito Hello everybody ( and OlefejerHi
I'm really considering this mod. I'm currently owning a W114 which I'm converting to a OM606. It's going to be twin charged (either 2 parallel turbo's or supercharger, haven't decided yet). I was thinking about a manual but my first STD i've converted to manual kinda et me down.... The boost wasn't instant no more and the gearbox + clutch broke down.
So I'm researching in the 722.6xx gearboxes. I can find a lot of 722.626 (270CDI / 320CDI I believe) but those are probably W5A380 right? I would really like a 580 one. How can I figure out the numbers? Is there any kind of chart somewhere? I can get a 55AMG gearbox but its more pricey and I need to decide quick.
Edit: 722.643 is the AMG gearbox.
Second, I need Olefejers controller of course... It lets me run the gearbox stand alone. But do I need the shifter also? or can I just hook up the old gear selector and use something like microswitches at the steering wheel or a separate shifter? And basically what do I need more to make the tranny work in an ancient car
Whats the price of the controller?
Thank for your help!
Yes both 270CDI and 320CDI is both big NAG but take the 270CDI then it fits you engine, no change of bell housing
Yes you should mount a new Gear Lever, if the one from W210 cars or the smaller from C202 fits the W114 the best i do not know
but you need a Gear LEver to move mecanically between PRND. that is a must.
OK the controller can work width No Gear Lever but you loose the standart functions, and the W/S switch
www.ofgear.dk/userguide/gearlever.html
You also need a TPS sensor
www.ofgear.dk/userguide/tps.html
And yes Paddle / micro switches in the steering wheel for manual control.
If you have the Gearbox number, you can take a look here to see what it is you have
http://ofgear.dk/generalinfo/gearboxinfo.html
Prices is in the shop
www.ofgear.dk/Shop.ehtml
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
08-25-2015, 10:56 AM
#167
(08-25-2015, 01:51 AM)Tito Oh I didn't know you had a website
Looks like I need to swap the bellhousing, but thats not a hard thing to do right? I would really like the stronger gearbox.
Yes if it is the
722.626 E320 CDI you need to change bell housing.
If you can find the E270 CDI it is still the strong box, then you do not need to change bell housing.
Picture from my own swap from E300 Turbodiesel to E55 AMG box
www.ofgear.dk/generalinfo/bellhousing.html
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(08-25-2015, 01:51 AM)Tito Oh I didn't know you had a website
Looks like I need to swap the bellhousing, but thats not a hard thing to do right? I would really like the stronger gearbox.
Yes if it is the
722.626 E320 CDI you need to change bell housing.
If you can find the E270 CDI it is still the strong box, then you do not need to change bell housing.
Picture from my own swap from E300 Turbodiesel to E55 AMG box
www.ofgear.dk/generalinfo/bellhousing.html
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
08-25-2015, 03:17 PM
#168
) Now looking for a shifter and a 606 bell housing.
This post was last modified: 08-25-2015, 03:18 PM by Tito.
08-28-2015, 05:36 AM
#169
After 1500 km driving with Ole's controller I have to say - it's usefull thing, but It's need shift firmness calibration table - both rpm, tps 10x10 point at least, because 10 point is not enought. In that case shifting in high or low rpm with the same trottle would be not the same. Smoth shift on high load and kick on the low load with equal tps position or smooth shift and sliding on high load. When it sliding it's look like this - speedoometr jump up, gears shifting 3-4-5, or 4-5 depending of current gear and your car, in fackt, driving on 1st gear despite of the "5" gear indicator displayed.
update: Ole, is it ok, that odometr count mielage when car is stopped? very slowly anyway
This post was last modified: 09-01-2015, 08:43 AM by jupel.
Hello all!
After 1500 km driving with Ole's controller I have to say - it's usefull thing, but It's need shift firmness calibration table - both rpm, tps 10x10 point at least, because 10 point is not enought. In that case shifting in high or low rpm with the same trottle would be not the same. Smoth shift on high load and kick on the low load with equal tps position or smooth shift and sliding on high load. When it sliding it's look like this - speedoometr jump up, gears shifting 3-4-5, or 4-5 depending of current gear and your car, in fackt, driving on 1st gear despite of the "5" gear indicator displayed.
update: Ole, is it ok, that odometr count mielage when car is stopped? very slowly anyway
09-04-2015, 03:09 PM
#170
However I ordered the controller. I'm anxious to get to play with the thing!
The bellhousing conversion was super easy. No troubles at all. Only problem I'm having is that the 606 bellhousing doesn't support the e55 torque converter. That's a shame because I now have to look for one. The 722.6 from a 220cdi I bought for parts didn't have one! Bummer...
However I ordered the controller. I'm anxious to get to play with the thing!
09-04-2015, 05:26 PM
#171
87 300SDL OM606 swapped HE351VE 722.633 swapped, Crower cams, KM valvesprings
76 300TD custom lots of stuff
06 Mercedes CL65 AMG 619 WHP, http://TurboTims.com
Is anyone using his controller for Holset VNT? I had mine working good until I just upgraded firmware. Anyone know any good setting to get the new firmware working.
87 300SDL OM606 swapped HE351VE 722.633 swapped, Crower cams, KM valvesprings
76 300TD custom lots of stuff
06 Mercedes CL65 AMG 619 WHP, http://TurboTims.com
09-05-2015, 02:44 AM
#172
(08-28-2015, 05:36 AM)jupel Hello all!
After 1500 km driving with Ole's controller I have to say - it's usefull thing, but It's need shift firmness calibration table - both rpm, tps 10x10 point at least, because 10 point is not enought. In that case shifting in high or low rpm with the same trottle would be not the same. Smoth shift on high load and kick on the low load with equal tps position or smooth shift and sliding on high load. When it sliding it's look like this - speedoometr jump up, gears shifting 3-4-5, or 4-5 depending of current gear and your car, in fackt, driving on 1st gear despite of the "5" gear indicator displayed.
update: Ole, is it ok, that odometr count mielage when car is stopped? very slowly anyway
first 10 x 10 point is a lot to play width, but ok it is a suggestion, and thanks for all suggestion, a lot of feature in the controller is from suggestion in here.
Yes when you shift in manual the hardness is not the same depending on RPM. they gets harder when high RPM correct. i will keep that in mind. if i find a solution for that.
In Automatic mode it is better as a specifik TPS point is linked to a specifik Speed. = almost a specifik RPM shift point.
the 3-4 shift jump up in RPM is normal,
but 4-5 is normally weary good, i have not on any car i have driven seen jump in 4-5 try to use "Rate Last shift" if it jump 4-5 tell it was to soft, do it more time if required.
Regarding you gear indicator not Working, write me direct, we can try to solve it.
As you use probably internal speed, it can be that its count slowly have to check, but it is not my intention.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(08-28-2015, 05:36 AM)jupel Hello all!
After 1500 km driving with Ole's controller I have to say - it's usefull thing, but It's need shift firmness calibration table - both rpm, tps 10x10 point at least, because 10 point is not enought. In that case shifting in high or low rpm with the same trottle would be not the same. Smoth shift on high load and kick on the low load with equal tps position or smooth shift and sliding on high load. When it sliding it's look like this - speedoometr jump up, gears shifting 3-4-5, or 4-5 depending of current gear and your car, in fackt, driving on 1st gear despite of the "5" gear indicator displayed.
update: Ole, is it ok, that odometr count mielage when car is stopped? very slowly anyway
first 10 x 10 point is a lot to play width, but ok it is a suggestion, and thanks for all suggestion, a lot of feature in the controller is from suggestion in here.
Yes when you shift in manual the hardness is not the same depending on RPM. they gets harder when high RPM correct. i will keep that in mind. if i find a solution for that.
In Automatic mode it is better as a specifik TPS point is linked to a specifik Speed. = almost a specifik RPM shift point.
the 3-4 shift jump up in RPM is normal,
but 4-5 is normally weary good, i have not on any car i have driven seen jump in 4-5 try to use "Rate Last shift" if it jump 4-5 tell it was to soft, do it more time if required.
Regarding you gear indicator not Working, write me direct, we can try to solve it.
As you use probably internal speed, it can be that its count slowly have to check, but it is not my intention.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
09-05-2015, 02:49 AM
#173
(09-04-2015, 05:26 PM)TurboTim Is anyone using his controller for Holset VNT? I had mine working good until I just upgraded firmware. Anyone know any good setting to get the new firmware working.
As from what you told me it is Working and then stops, working,
interesting to know is if Anybody know if there is a thermal switch. cutting out if the electronic gets to HOT in the Holset Controller. ?
The Change in the software is that the travel was to small before. now it should move vanes fully Closed and fully open.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(09-04-2015, 05:26 PM)TurboTim Is anyone using his controller for Holset VNT? I had mine working good until I just upgraded firmware. Anyone know any good setting to get the new firmware working.
As from what you told me it is Working and then stops, working,
interesting to know is if Anybody know if there is a thermal switch. cutting out if the electronic gets to HOT in the Holset Controller. ?
The Change in the software is that the travel was to small before. now it should move vanes fully Closed and fully open.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
09-05-2015, 02:57 PM
#175
(09-05-2015, 01:35 PM)Tito Quick question: Will the 320cdi torque converter fit the om606 bellhousing?
No. It looks the same like from 300td but bolt holes to flywheel/flexplate do not fit. Actually it fits in om606 bellhousing but not to om606 flexplate. At the moment I am running 500hp and 850nm with 320cdi box and 300td converter with no problems but I'm planning to upgrade to 320cdi or similar converter because they have two friction discs instead of one in converter lock clutch. Maybe converter from 270cdi fit, if it doesn't then maybe it can be used with 270cdi flexplate.
This post was last modified: 09-05-2015, 03:15 PM by erx.
(09-05-2015, 01:35 PM)Tito Quick question: Will the 320cdi torque converter fit the om606 bellhousing?
No. It looks the same like from 300td but bolt holes to flywheel/flexplate do not fit. Actually it fits in om606 bellhousing but not to om606 flexplate. At the moment I am running 500hp and 850nm with 320cdi box and 300td converter with no problems but I'm planning to upgrade to 320cdi or similar converter because they have two friction discs instead of one in converter lock clutch. Maybe converter from 270cdi fit, if it doesn't then maybe it can be used with 270cdi flexplate.
09-09-2015, 05:05 PM
#178
I wonder if there's a possibility to get a signal out while shifting, for gearbox protection during full load. I've read somewhere it's possible for gasoline cars to retard the ignition during shifting? Could it be used (I've gotta build some kind of rack puller) on diesels?
This post was last modified: 09-09-2015, 05:06 PM by Tito.
Got the controller in the mail. Can't wait to play with it.
I wonder if there's a possibility to get a signal out while shifting, for gearbox protection during full load. I've read somewhere it's possible for gasoline cars to retard the ignition during shifting? Could it be used (I've gotta build some kind of rack puller) on diesels?
09-10-2015, 01:46 PM
#179
(09-09-2015, 05:05 PM)Tito Got the controller in the mail. Can't wait to play with it.
I wonder if there's a possibility to get a signal out while shifting, for gearbox protection during full load. I've read somewhere it's possible for gasoline cars to retard the ignition during shifting? Could it be used (I've gotta build some kind of rack puller) on diesels?
Hi There is one possibility, if you have ALDA,
You can vent out boost pressure to the ALDA, then it gives less fuel, under shift.
after 1 sec valve closes and boost goes back to alda.
One of the old vacuum valves from W124 should work.
This is not tested just a thought.
.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(09-09-2015, 05:05 PM)Tito Got the controller in the mail. Can't wait to play with it.
I wonder if there's a possibility to get a signal out while shifting, for gearbox protection during full load. I've read somewhere it's possible for gasoline cars to retard the ignition during shifting? Could it be used (I've gotta build some kind of rack puller) on diesels?
Hi There is one possibility, if you have ALDA,
You can vent out boost pressure to the ALDA, then it gives less fuel, under shift.
after 1 sec valve closes and boost goes back to alda.
One of the old vacuum valves from W124 should work.
This is not tested just a thought.
.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
09-10-2015, 06:14 PM
#180
whipplem104
09-10-2015, 06:14 PM #180I have tried a few different configurations with my tcu and the response time is just to slow. Only thing that I have found to work with diesels is to vent the boost pressure with a bypass. I was thinking an electronic actuator on the stop lever that would move quickly. But I still think that will be to slow.
09-11-2015, 12:18 PM
#182
whipplem104
09-11-2015, 12:18 PM #182The problem with the fuel idea is that is requires it to respond quickly. And from my experience the fuel is slow to respond. Like pushing the level to turn off your engine takes a couple of seconds. I tried using the shut off valve as well. As far as being smokey. Well yes a little but you are only talking about dumping boost for 1 second at the most and in reality less. The turbo will stay spooled as you are simply unloading it. VNT turbos can respond quickly from the actuator but regular waste gates are a little lazy as well. Depending on the setup you typically need to reduce power by around .2-.3 seconds after the shift has started and then come back on at shift completion. So peak power reduction should be at that .2-.3 sec and around .2-.3 after that depending on power levels etc.
09-11-2015, 03:52 PM
#183
(09-11-2015, 12:18 PM)whipplem104 The problem with the fuel idea is that is requires it to respond quickly. And from my experience the fuel is slow to respond. Like pushing the level to turn off your engine takes a couple of seconds. I tried using the shut off valve as well. As far as being smokey. Well yes a little but you are only talking about dumping boost for 1 second at the most and in reality less. The turbo will stay spooled as you are simply unloading it. VNT turbos can respond quickly from the actuator but regular waste gates are a little lazy as well. Depending on the setup you typically need to reduce power by around .2-.3 seconds after the shift has started and then come back on at shift completion. So peak power reduction should be at that .2-.3 sec and around .2-.3 after that depending on power levels etc.
Hi Yes you are correct, it would maybe be to slow.
But i would mount the 3 way valve near the ALDA.
When i power it it just releases boost pressure to the vastegate. Boost will still be there. (or maby fall a little as lack of fuel.)
When shift is over the valve turn back to normal, and the boost already there will press the ALDA and give fuel again.
I would have to try it to see if it works.
It would be great for easy cruising ;-) and only have it in the W setting and not in "S"
.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(09-11-2015, 12:18 PM)whipplem104 The problem with the fuel idea is that is requires it to respond quickly. And from my experience the fuel is slow to respond. Like pushing the level to turn off your engine takes a couple of seconds. I tried using the shut off valve as well. As far as being smokey. Well yes a little but you are only talking about dumping boost for 1 second at the most and in reality less. The turbo will stay spooled as you are simply unloading it. VNT turbos can respond quickly from the actuator but regular waste gates are a little lazy as well. Depending on the setup you typically need to reduce power by around .2-.3 seconds after the shift has started and then come back on at shift completion. So peak power reduction should be at that .2-.3 sec and around .2-.3 after that depending on power levels etc.
Hi Yes you are correct, it would maybe be to slow.
But i would mount the 3 way valve near the ALDA.
When i power it it just releases boost pressure to the vastegate. Boost will still be there. (or maby fall a little as lack of fuel.)
When shift is over the valve turn back to normal, and the boost already there will press the ALDA and give fuel again.
I would have to try it to see if it works.
It would be great for easy cruising ;-) and only have it in the W setting and not in "S"
.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
09-12-2015, 11:12 AM
#184
(09-05-2015, 02:44 AM)olefejerOle, when I wrote about shifting 3-4-5 I mean it it slding, box working incorrectly. gear indicator is ok. and when thing happens the only way to return to normal is restart controller. and yes, I'm use internal speed sensor. sometimes when car start to driving controller is hanging on the 1st gear, and when it happen speedometer sleep too, after gathering speed about 30-40 km/h box shifting hard.(08-28-2015, 05:36 AM)jupel Hello all!
After 1500 km driving with Ole's controller I have to say - it's usefull thing, but It's need shift firmness calibration table - both rpm, tps 10x10 point at least, because 10 point is not enought. In that case shifting in high or low rpm with the same trottle would be not the same. Smoth shift on high load and kick on the low load with equal tps position or smooth shift and sliding on high load. When it sliding it's look like this - speedoometr jump up, gears shifting 3-4-5, or 4-5 depending of current gear and your car, in fackt, driving on 1st gear despite of the "5" gear indicator displayed.
update: Ole, is it ok, that odometr count mielage when car is stopped? very slowly anyway
first 10 x 10 point is a lot to play width, but ok it is a suggestion, and thanks for all suggestion, a lot of feature in the controller is from suggestion in here.
Yes when you shift in manual the hardness is not the same depending on RPM. they gets harder when high RPM correct. i will keep that in mind. if i find a solution for that.
In Automatic mode it is better as a specifik TPS point is linked to a specifik Speed. = almost a specifik RPM shift point.
the 3-4 shift jump up in RPM is normal,
but 4-5 is normally weary good, i have not on any car i have driven seen jump in 4-5 try to use "Rate Last shift" if it jump 4-5 tell it was to soft, do it more time if required.
Regarding you gear indicator not Working, write me direct, we can try to solve it.
As you use probably internal speed, it can be that its count slowly have to check, but it is not my intention.
(09-05-2015, 02:44 AM)olefejerOle, when I wrote about shifting 3-4-5 I mean it it slding, box working incorrectly. gear indicator is ok. and when thing happens the only way to return to normal is restart controller. and yes, I'm use internal speed sensor. sometimes when car start to driving controller is hanging on the 1st gear, and when it happen speedometer sleep too, after gathering speed about 30-40 km/h box shifting hard.(08-28-2015, 05:36 AM)jupel Hello all!
After 1500 km driving with Ole's controller I have to say - it's usefull thing, but It's need shift firmness calibration table - both rpm, tps 10x10 point at least, because 10 point is not enought. In that case shifting in high or low rpm with the same trottle would be not the same. Smoth shift on high load and kick on the low load with equal tps position or smooth shift and sliding on high load. When it sliding it's look like this - speedoometr jump up, gears shifting 3-4-5, or 4-5 depending of current gear and your car, in fackt, driving on 1st gear despite of the "5" gear indicator displayed.
update: Ole, is it ok, that odometr count mielage when car is stopped? very slowly anyway
first 10 x 10 point is a lot to play width, but ok it is a suggestion, and thanks for all suggestion, a lot of feature in the controller is from suggestion in here.
Yes when you shift in manual the hardness is not the same depending on RPM. they gets harder when high RPM correct. i will keep that in mind. if i find a solution for that.
In Automatic mode it is better as a specifik TPS point is linked to a specifik Speed. = almost a specifik RPM shift point.
the 3-4 shift jump up in RPM is normal,
but 4-5 is normally weary good, i have not on any car i have driven seen jump in 4-5 try to use "Rate Last shift" if it jump 4-5 tell it was to soft, do it more time if required.
Regarding you gear indicator not Working, write me direct, we can try to solve it.
As you use probably internal speed, it can be that its count slowly have to check, but it is not my intention.
09-12-2015, 01:39 PM
#185
(09-12-2015, 11:12 AM)jupelWell when internal speed is used, it is important, that shift is not to soft, Maby try to go back to default. and test again.(09-05-2015, 02:44 AM)olefejerOle, when I wrote about shifting 3-4-5 I mean it it slding, box working incorrectly. gear indicator is ok. and when thing happens the only way to return to normal is restart controller. and yes, I'm use internal speed sensor. sometimes when car start to driving controller is hanging on the 1st gear, and when it happen speedometer sleep too, after gathering speed about 30-40 km/h box shifting hard.(08-28-2015, 05:36 AM)jupel Hello all!
After 1500 km driving with Ole's controller I have to say - it's usefull thing, but It's need shift firmness calibration table - both rpm, tps 10x10 point at least, because 10 point is not enought. In that case shifting in high or low rpm with the same trottle would be not the same. Smoth shift on high load and kick on the low load with equal tps position or smooth shift and sliding on high load. When it sliding it's look like this - speedoometr jump up, gears shifting 3-4-5, or 4-5 depending of current gear and your car, in fackt, driving on 1st gear despite of the "5" gear indicator displayed.
update: Ole, is it ok, that odometr count mielage when car is stopped? very slowly anyway
first 10 x 10 point is a lot to play width, but ok it is a suggestion, and thanks for all suggestion, a lot of feature in the controller is from suggestion in here.
Yes when you shift in manual the hardness is not the same depending on RPM. they gets harder when high RPM correct. i will keep that in mind. if i find a solution for that.
In Automatic mode it is better as a specifik TPS point is linked to a specifik Speed. = almost a specifik RPM shift point.
the 3-4 shift jump up in RPM is normal,
but 4-5 is normally weary good, i have not on any car i have driven seen jump in 4-5 try to use "Rate Last shift" if it jump 4-5 tell it was to soft, do it more time if required.
Regarding you gear indicator not Working, write me direct, we can try to solve it.
As you use probably internal speed, it can be that its count slowly have to check, but it is not my intention.
If you have a sliding 3-4 shift or 4-5 speed can get locked. as i do not want false speed.
Yes the only way is to power back on to get it working.
Maby you can mail me a picture of "livedata" when it is hanging.
Or update you firmware, and download the PC software, then send me you setting, and i can see what you have adjusted.
http://ofgear.dk/download/index.html
Ole
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(09-12-2015, 11:12 AM)jupelWell when internal speed is used, it is important, that shift is not to soft, Maby try to go back to default. and test again.(09-05-2015, 02:44 AM)olefejerOle, when I wrote about shifting 3-4-5 I mean it it slding, box working incorrectly. gear indicator is ok. and when thing happens the only way to return to normal is restart controller. and yes, I'm use internal speed sensor. sometimes when car start to driving controller is hanging on the 1st gear, and when it happen speedometer sleep too, after gathering speed about 30-40 km/h box shifting hard.(08-28-2015, 05:36 AM)jupel Hello all!
After 1500 km driving with Ole's controller I have to say - it's usefull thing, but It's need shift firmness calibration table - both rpm, tps 10x10 point at least, because 10 point is not enought. In that case shifting in high or low rpm with the same trottle would be not the same. Smoth shift on high load and kick on the low load with equal tps position or smooth shift and sliding on high load. When it sliding it's look like this - speedoometr jump up, gears shifting 3-4-5, or 4-5 depending of current gear and your car, in fackt, driving on 1st gear despite of the "5" gear indicator displayed.
update: Ole, is it ok, that odometr count mielage when car is stopped? very slowly anyway
first 10 x 10 point is a lot to play width, but ok it is a suggestion, and thanks for all suggestion, a lot of feature in the controller is from suggestion in here.
Yes when you shift in manual the hardness is not the same depending on RPM. they gets harder when high RPM correct. i will keep that in mind. if i find a solution for that.
In Automatic mode it is better as a specifik TPS point is linked to a specifik Speed. = almost a specifik RPM shift point.
the 3-4 shift jump up in RPM is normal,
but 4-5 is normally weary good, i have not on any car i have driven seen jump in 4-5 try to use "Rate Last shift" if it jump 4-5 tell it was to soft, do it more time if required.
Regarding you gear indicator not Working, write me direct, we can try to solve it.
As you use probably internal speed, it can be that its count slowly have to check, but it is not my intention.
If you have a sliding 3-4 shift or 4-5 speed can get locked. as i do not want false speed.
Yes the only way is to power back on to get it working.
Maby you can mail me a picture of "livedata" when it is hanging.
Or update you firmware, and download the PC software, then send me you setting, and i can see what you have adjusted.
http://ofgear.dk/download/index.html
Ole
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
10-06-2015, 04:12 PM
#186
street_666
10-06-2015, 04:12 PM #186Hi. Your controler supports 722.9 7g tronic gearbox? If not, do You gonna make next controler or an update?
10-09-2015, 02:08 PM
#188
(10-06-2015, 04:12 PM)street_666 Hi. Your controler supports 722.9 7g tronic gearbox? If not, do You gonna make next controler or an update?Hi
Not as it is now, the 722.9 is Canbus controlled. but there is a way, if all wire is taken out of the box, it should be possible to drive the valves direct, but not in progress. now.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(10-06-2015, 04:12 PM)street_666 Hi. Your controler supports 722.9 7g tronic gearbox? If not, do You gonna make next controler or an update?Hi
Not as it is now, the 722.9 is Canbus controlled. but there is a way, if all wire is taken out of the box, it should be possible to drive the valves direct, but not in progress. now.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
10-09-2015, 02:13 PM
#189
(10-09-2015, 06:46 AM)ross Ole is there a way of using the gear indicator display and the Holset VGT control? Just noticed on your site that it says you can't use both together.
Well the problem is that both the Canbus and gearindicator is using the SPI bus, but right now testing different small OLED displays, one of them, can for sure run together width Canbus, but not ready yet. I post later when i know what display, i will use for more advanced Gear indicator.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(10-09-2015, 06:46 AM)ross Ole is there a way of using the gear indicator display and the Holset VGT control? Just noticed on your site that it says you can't use both together.
Well the problem is that both the Canbus and gearindicator is using the SPI bus, but right now testing different small OLED displays, one of them, can for sure run together width Canbus, but not ready yet. I post later when i know what display, i will use for more advanced Gear indicator.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
10-09-2015, 02:17 PM
#190
(10-09-2015, 02:13 PM)olefejer(10-09-2015, 06:46 AM)ross Ole is there a way of using the gear indicator display and the Holset VGT control? Just noticed on your site that it says you can't use both together.
Well the problem is that both the Canbus and gearindicator is using the SPI bus, but right now testing different small OLED displays, one of them, can for sure run together width Canbus, but not ready yet. I post later when i know what display, i will use for more advanced Gear indicator.
Great news! I won't be needing it for a while as the land rover is still just a chassis in the workshop!
(10-09-2015, 02:13 PM)olefejer(10-09-2015, 06:46 AM)ross Ole is there a way of using the gear indicator display and the Holset VGT control? Just noticed on your site that it says you can't use both together.
Well the problem is that both the Canbus and gearindicator is using the SPI bus, but right now testing different small OLED displays, one of them, can for sure run together width Canbus, but not ready yet. I post later when i know what display, i will use for more advanced Gear indicator.
Great news! I won't be needing it for a while as the land rover is still just a chassis in the workshop!
10-10-2015, 01:47 PM
#191
(09-11-2015, 03:52 PM)olefejerJust tryed it today.(09-11-2015, 12:18 PM)whipplem104 The problem with the fuel idea is that is requires it to respond quickly. And from my experience the fuel is slow to respond. Like pushing the level to turn off your engine takes a couple of seconds. I tried using the shut off valve as well. As far as being smokey. Well yes a little but you are only talking about dumping boost for 1 second at the most and in reality less. The turbo will stay spooled as you are simply unloading it. VNT turbos can respond quickly from the actuator but regular waste gates are a little lazy as well. Depending on the setup you typically need to reduce power by around .2-.3 seconds after the shift has started and then come back on at shift completion. So peak power reduction should be at that .2-.3 sec and around .2-.3 after that depending on power levels etc.
Hi Yes you are correct, it would maybe be to slow.
But i would mount the 3 way valve near the ALDA.
When i power it it just releases boost pressure to the vastegate. Boost will still be there. (or maby fall a little as lack of fuel.)
When shift is over the valve turn back to normal, and the boost already there will press the ALDA and give fuel again.
I would have to try it to see if it works.
It would be great for easy cruising ;-) and only have it in the W setting and not in "S"
.
Dumping pressure to ALDA and Gauge, it works actually quite quick, but i need a little delay, maby o,5 sec before i start the shift after dumping the pressure, to ALDA
Boost is still there just not at the alda.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQVtAWOvlRc
.
.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(09-11-2015, 03:52 PM)olefejerJust tryed it today.(09-11-2015, 12:18 PM)whipplem104 The problem with the fuel idea is that is requires it to respond quickly. And from my experience the fuel is slow to respond. Like pushing the level to turn off your engine takes a couple of seconds. I tried using the shut off valve as well. As far as being smokey. Well yes a little but you are only talking about dumping boost for 1 second at the most and in reality less. The turbo will stay spooled as you are simply unloading it. VNT turbos can respond quickly from the actuator but regular waste gates are a little lazy as well. Depending on the setup you typically need to reduce power by around .2-.3 seconds after the shift has started and then come back on at shift completion. So peak power reduction should be at that .2-.3 sec and around .2-.3 after that depending on power levels etc.
Hi Yes you are correct, it would maybe be to slow.
But i would mount the 3 way valve near the ALDA.
When i power it it just releases boost pressure to the vastegate. Boost will still be there. (or maby fall a little as lack of fuel.)
When shift is over the valve turn back to normal, and the boost already there will press the ALDA and give fuel again.
I would have to try it to see if it works.
It would be great for easy cruising ;-) and only have it in the W setting and not in "S"
.
Dumping pressure to ALDA and Gauge, it works actually quite quick, but i need a little delay, maby o,5 sec before i start the shift after dumping the pressure, to ALDA
Boost is still there just not at the alda.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQVtAWOvlRc
.
.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
10-11-2015, 07:56 AM
#192
whipplem104
10-11-2015, 07:56 AM #192Do you see any significant power reduction? But yeah that is what I am talking about with the slow response .5s is a long time. Most shifts are over before that time is up so you would definitely need a delay. I just focused on not needing it at the end of the day. Let us know how it works out though.
10-16-2015, 10:25 PM
#195
This post was last modified: 10-16-2015, 10:26 PM by Eric78.
10-17-2015, 04:49 AM
#196
(10-16-2015, 02:51 PM)wanger Hi would the ecu drive a different VNT turbo? I can get a transit 2.4 tdci turbo cheap.
Whats the criteria to run it?
Hi
Well if it is width vacuum actuator, then yes you can drive it, but you need both EGP and Boost sensor.
.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(10-16-2015, 02:51 PM)wanger Hi would the ecu drive a different VNT turbo? I can get a transit 2.4 tdci turbo cheap.
Whats the criteria to run it?
Hi
Well if it is width vacuum actuator, then yes you can drive it, but you need both EGP and Boost sensor.
.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
10-17-2015, 04:55 AM
#197
(10-16-2015, 10:25 PM)Eric78 Can this controller use the Cruise Control wand to change gears in the manual shift mode? I won't be re-installing the cruise control when I do the engine swap but I way as well keep the wand & use it for something rather than have to plug up the hole.
The controller just need two switches, that shorting to ground,
If it can do that then yes it should work.
.
.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(10-16-2015, 10:25 PM)Eric78 Can this controller use the Cruise Control wand to change gears in the manual shift mode? I won't be re-installing the cruise control when I do the engine swap but I way as well keep the wand & use it for something rather than have to plug up the hole.
The controller just need two switches, that shorting to ground,
If it can do that then yes it should work.
.
.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
10-26-2015, 12:48 PM
#199
(10-26-2015, 03:19 AM)erx We need 4bar boost sensor, 3bar sensor is stopping on 2,99. 4bar boost sensor would be nice option for STD.
You are running some hardcore engine ;-)
but it is no problem at 2 bar boost and 100% TPS the Controller shift as hard as possible.
And the sensor would survive 4 bar boost but just not show it.
This post was last modified: 10-26-2015, 12:50 PM by olefejer.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(10-26-2015, 03:19 AM)erx We need 4bar boost sensor, 3bar sensor is stopping on 2,99. 4bar boost sensor would be nice option for STD.
You are running some hardcore engine ;-)
but it is no problem at 2 bar boost and 100% TPS the Controller shift as hard as possible.
And the sensor would survive 4 bar boost but just not show it.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
10-28-2015, 03:05 PM
#200
(10-26-2015, 12:48 PM)olefejer(10-26-2015, 03:19 AM)erx We need 4bar boost sensor, 3bar sensor is stopping on 2,99. 4bar boost sensor would be nice option for STD.
You are running some hardcore engine ;-)
but it is no problem at 2 bar boost and 100% TPS the Controller shift as hard as possible.
And the sensor would survive 4 bar boost but just not show it.
It is shifting fine, I was just wondering that it would be great to see numbers above 2,99 too.
If I adjust shift firmness at 100% TPS higher than 0 on menu then accelerating with 3bar boost it is not making shifts any harder because it is shifting as hard as possible anyway?
This post was last modified: 10-28-2015, 03:07 PM by erx.
(10-26-2015, 12:48 PM)olefejer(10-26-2015, 03:19 AM)erx We need 4bar boost sensor, 3bar sensor is stopping on 2,99. 4bar boost sensor would be nice option for STD.
You are running some hardcore engine ;-)
but it is no problem at 2 bar boost and 100% TPS the Controller shift as hard as possible.
And the sensor would survive 4 bar boost but just not show it.
It is shifting fine, I was just wondering that it would be great to see numbers above 2,99 too.
If I adjust shift firmness at 100% TPS higher than 0 on menu then accelerating with 3bar boost it is not making shifts any harder because it is shifting as hard as possible anyway?
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