Gearbox Controller 722.6 ver 2
Gearbox Controller 722.6 ver 2
10-29-2015, 02:09 PM
#201
(10-28-2015, 03:05 PM)erxWhat i mean is(10-26-2015, 12:48 PM)olefejer(10-26-2015, 03:19 AM)erx We need 4bar boost sensor, 3bar sensor is stopping on 2,99. 4bar boost sensor would be nice option for STD.
You are running some hardcore engine ;-)
but it is no problem at 2 bar boost and 100% TPS the Controller shift as hard as possible.
And the sensor would survive 4 bar boost but just not show it.
It is shifting fine, I was just wondering that it would be great to see numbers above 2,99 too.
If I adjust shift firmness at 100% TPS higher than 0 on menu then accelerating with 3bar boost it is not making shifts any harder because it is shifting as hard as possible anyway?
If TPS is 100% and Boost is 2 bar then i tell the Gearbox to shift as hard as possible.
Yes shift hardness is depending on both TPS and Boost, that is a big advantage when people use big slow spooling turbos.
it gives better comfort at low load.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(10-28-2015, 03:05 PM)erxWhat i mean is(10-26-2015, 12:48 PM)olefejer(10-26-2015, 03:19 AM)erx We need 4bar boost sensor, 3bar sensor is stopping on 2,99. 4bar boost sensor would be nice option for STD.
You are running some hardcore engine ;-)
but it is no problem at 2 bar boost and 100% TPS the Controller shift as hard as possible.
And the sensor would survive 4 bar boost but just not show it.
It is shifting fine, I was just wondering that it would be great to see numbers above 2,99 too.
If I adjust shift firmness at 100% TPS higher than 0 on menu then accelerating with 3bar boost it is not making shifts any harder because it is shifting as hard as possible anyway?
If TPS is 100% and Boost is 2 bar then i tell the Gearbox to shift as hard as possible.
Yes shift hardness is depending on both TPS and Boost, that is a big advantage when people use big slow spooling turbos.
it gives better comfort at low load.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
10-29-2015, 02:50 PM
#202
(10-29-2015, 02:09 PM)olefejer(10-28-2015, 03:05 PM)erxWhat i mean is(10-26-2015, 12:48 PM)olefejer You are running some hardcore engine ;-)
but it is no problem at 2 bar boost and 100% TPS the Controller shift as hard as possible.
And the sensor would survive 4 bar boost but just not show it.
It is shifting fine, I was just wondering that it would be great to see numbers above 2,99 too.
If I adjust shift firmness at 100% TPS higher than 0 on menu then accelerating with 3bar boost it is not making shifts any harder because it is shifting as hard as possible anyway?
If TPS is 100% and Boost is 2 bar then i tell the Gearbox to shift as hard as possible.
Yes shift hardness is depending on both TPS and Boost, that is a big advantage when people use big slow spooling turbos.
it gives better comfort at low load.
I understand, I try to explain better what I wanted to ask.
If I go to SHIFT FIRMNESS > 1->2 100% Load and it has 0% value. If I change this 100% Load firmness value lets say from 0% to 10% will it make shifts even harder or is it shifting as hard as possible anyway when I have 3bar boost and full throttle?
Like on this picture but instead of 30% I mean 100% Load and Change:0% to 10%.
![[Image: 5cab883fdf-Files-ShiftFirmness-2013-03-2....16.54.jpg]](http://ofgear.dk/onewebstatic/5cab883fdf-Files-ShiftFirmness-2013-03-22%2021.16.54.jpg)
If I change this value on 20% and 30% Load I can feel the difference but not sure on 100% Load.
This post was last modified: 10-29-2015, 03:01 PM by erx.
(10-29-2015, 02:09 PM)olefejer(10-28-2015, 03:05 PM)erxWhat i mean is(10-26-2015, 12:48 PM)olefejer You are running some hardcore engine ;-)
but it is no problem at 2 bar boost and 100% TPS the Controller shift as hard as possible.
And the sensor would survive 4 bar boost but just not show it.
It is shifting fine, I was just wondering that it would be great to see numbers above 2,99 too.
If I adjust shift firmness at 100% TPS higher than 0 on menu then accelerating with 3bar boost it is not making shifts any harder because it is shifting as hard as possible anyway?
If TPS is 100% and Boost is 2 bar then i tell the Gearbox to shift as hard as possible.
Yes shift hardness is depending on both TPS and Boost, that is a big advantage when people use big slow spooling turbos.
it gives better comfort at low load.
I understand, I try to explain better what I wanted to ask.
If I go to SHIFT FIRMNESS > 1->2 100% Load and it has 0% value. If I change this 100% Load firmness value lets say from 0% to 10% will it make shifts even harder or is it shifting as hard as possible anyway when I have 3bar boost and full throttle?
Like on this picture but instead of 30% I mean 100% Load and Change:0% to 10%.
If I change this value on 20% and 30% Load I can feel the difference but not sure on 100% Load.
10-29-2015, 03:20 PM
#203
(10-29-2015, 02:50 PM)erx(10-29-2015, 02:09 PM)olefejer(10-28-2015, 03:05 PM)erx It is shifting fine, I was just wondering that it would be great to see numbers above 2,99 too.What i mean is
If I adjust shift firmness at 100% TPS higher than 0 on menu then accelerating with 3bar boost it is not making shifts any harder because it is shifting as hard as possible anyway?
If TPS is 100% and Boost is 2 bar then i tell the Gearbox to shift as hard as possible.
Yes shift hardness is depending on both TPS and Boost, that is a big advantage when people use big slow spooling turbos.
it gives better comfort at low load.
I understand, I try to explain better what I wanted to ask.
If I go to SHIFT FIRMNESS > 1->2 100% Load and it has 0% value. If I change this 100% Load firmness value lets say from 0% to 10% will it make shifts even harder or is it shifting as hard as possible anyway when I have 3bar boost and full throttle?
Like on this picture but instead of 30% I mean 100% Load and Change:0% to 10%.
If I change this value on 20% and 30% Load I can feel the difference but not sure on 100% Load.
This is just for fine tune.
They are all 0 as standart.
this means if you find the shift 1->2 to hard at 30% load you can try -1 or -2 here if the shift is to soft try 1 or 2 or 3
If you want to know at what Load the last shift happened. you can go in to
"Rate Last shift"
In here you will see at what load the last shift happened. and you also has the possibility to say it was to Hard or To Soft, then it will automatically change the correct parameter depending on what shift and load.
and you can always go in and look at the setting, and see what it has changed.
Take a look at 3:16 in this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYhNcl7JfsQ
.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(10-29-2015, 02:50 PM)erx(10-29-2015, 02:09 PM)olefejer(10-28-2015, 03:05 PM)erx It is shifting fine, I was just wondering that it would be great to see numbers above 2,99 too.What i mean is
If I adjust shift firmness at 100% TPS higher than 0 on menu then accelerating with 3bar boost it is not making shifts any harder because it is shifting as hard as possible anyway?
If TPS is 100% and Boost is 2 bar then i tell the Gearbox to shift as hard as possible.
Yes shift hardness is depending on both TPS and Boost, that is a big advantage when people use big slow spooling turbos.
it gives better comfort at low load.
I understand, I try to explain better what I wanted to ask.
If I go to SHIFT FIRMNESS > 1->2 100% Load and it has 0% value. If I change this 100% Load firmness value lets say from 0% to 10% will it make shifts even harder or is it shifting as hard as possible anyway when I have 3bar boost and full throttle?
Like on this picture but instead of 30% I mean 100% Load and Change:0% to 10%.
If I change this value on 20% and 30% Load I can feel the difference but not sure on 100% Load.
This is just for fine tune.
They are all 0 as standart.
this means if you find the shift 1->2 to hard at 30% load you can try -1 or -2 here if the shift is to soft try 1 or 2 or 3
If you want to know at what Load the last shift happened. you can go in to
"Rate Last shift"
In here you will see at what load the last shift happened. and you also has the possibility to say it was to Hard or To Soft, then it will automatically change the correct parameter depending on what shift and load.
and you can always go in and look at the setting, and see what it has changed.
Take a look at 3:16 in this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYhNcl7JfsQ
.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
10-29-2015, 04:28 PM
#204
This post was last modified: 10-29-2015, 04:33 PM by erx.
Thank you for explaining but that's not really what I meant. I understand all what you say but If I soon run 1000nm through 320cdi box then what parameters or pressures in menu I should change to make box shift as hard as possible with full throttle? For example if I drag race, I only mean 100% Load. Is it helpful if I change that 100% Load fine tuning from 0% to the highest %? I want to make sure that controller is not limiting shift pressure or modulating pressure on 100% Load when shifting and gearbox is really working on its limit.
01-03-2016, 03:04 PM
#205
It will be going in a offroader my question is what's the engine braking like with your controller?
does the gearbox drop straight out when you lift off the throttle?
Or can it be programmed not to,
It's basically needed for desending hills without using the brakes incase you don't know offroading
Debating converting to auto from my 6 speed manual,
It will be going in a offroader my question is what's the engine braking like with your controller?
does the gearbox drop straight out when you lift off the throttle?
Or can it be programmed not to,
It's basically needed for desending hills without using the brakes incase you don't know offroading
01-03-2016, 03:31 PM
#206
(01-03-2016, 03:04 PM)mat_91 Debating converting to auto from my 6 speed manual,
It will be going in a offroader my question is what's the engine braking like with your controller?
does the gearbox drop straight out when you lift off the throttle?
Or can it be programmed not to,
It's basically needed for desending hills without using the brakes incase you don't know offroading
Hi
Yes you have engine brake. as you can force it down in gears, width Gear Lever.
Or you can shift down in Manual mode, for engine braking.
But it is not something that can be changed, as it is depending on the converter.
Unless you run width the Converter locked, yes it is also a possibility, to have the converter locked in any gear.
But i think the normal engine braking would be enough for you, if you have it in first gear. specially if you have a transfer case ration 1:3 like the G class
This post was last modified: 01-03-2016, 03:32 PM by olefejer.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(01-03-2016, 03:04 PM)mat_91 Debating converting to auto from my 6 speed manual,
It will be going in a offroader my question is what's the engine braking like with your controller?
does the gearbox drop straight out when you lift off the throttle?
Or can it be programmed not to,
It's basically needed for desending hills without using the brakes incase you don't know offroading
Hi
Yes you have engine brake. as you can force it down in gears, width Gear Lever.
Or you can shift down in Manual mode, for engine braking.
But it is not something that can be changed, as it is depending on the converter.
Unless you run width the Converter locked, yes it is also a possibility, to have the converter locked in any gear.
But i think the normal engine braking would be enough for you, if you have it in first gear. specially if you have a transfer case ration 1:3 like the G class
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
01-03-2016, 04:36 PM
#207
My transfer box will be 3.25:1 drop, with 4.11 final drives and 37" tyres which will be plenty then
I thought the torque converter would be like on non-electric auto but wasn't to sure, I've not got much experience with autos in this depth
Great news then, as I really wanted to do a twin vgt turbo setup as well so your controller would work great there as well
Thanks
Thanks for the quick reply olefejer
My transfer box will be 3.25:1 drop, with 4.11 final drives and 37" tyres which will be plenty then
I thought the torque converter would be like on non-electric auto but wasn't to sure, I've not got much experience with autos in this depth
Great news then, as I really wanted to do a twin vgt turbo setup as well so your controller would work great there as well
Thanks
01-03-2016, 05:02 PM
#209
This post was last modified: 01-03-2016, 05:05 PM by Petar.
It's not just the converter that reduces engine braking on conventional autos, they often have overruning clutches. For instance the 240D auto (722.1 vacuum controled tranny) i drove had pretty decent engine braking in S (3rd gear). It also had good engine braking in reverse but it is nonexistant in first gear. Does the 722.6 have an overruning clutch in first gear ?
01-04-2016, 11:48 AM
#211
(01-03-2016, 05:02 PM)Petar It's not just the converter that reduces engine braking on conventional autos, they often have overruning clutches. For instance the 240D auto (722.1 vacuum controled tranny) i drove had pretty decent engine braking in S (3rd gear). It also had good engine braking in reverse but it is nonexistant in first gear. Does the 722.6 have an overruning clutch in first gear ?
It can engine brake in first gear, when i control it. that is for sure.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(01-03-2016, 05:02 PM)Petar It's not just the converter that reduces engine braking on conventional autos, they often have overruning clutches. For instance the 240D auto (722.1 vacuum controled tranny) i drove had pretty decent engine braking in S (3rd gear). It also had good engine braking in reverse but it is nonexistant in first gear. Does the 722.6 have an overruning clutch in first gear ?
It can engine brake in first gear, when i control it. that is for sure.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
01-05-2016, 08:15 PM
#212
Many transmissions do not have engine braking unless you select down on the shifter which applies the appropriate clutches to provide engine braking. The 722.3 for example works this way.
whipplem104
01-05-2016, 08:15 PM #212The 722.6 has engine braking as part of its clutch configuration. The k3 clutch is on in 1st and 2nd for this function. And b1 in 1st only. There is no way to not have engine braking. The torque converter does not have anything to do with it. The 1 way roller in the converter simply allows over run on the stator for efficiency.
Many transmissions do not have engine braking unless you select down on the shifter which applies the appropriate clutches to provide engine braking. The 722.3 for example works this way.
01-06-2016, 07:25 PM
#213
(01-05-2016, 08:15 PM)whipplem104 Many transmissions do not have engine braking unless you select down on the shifter which applies the appropriate clutches to provide engine braking. The 722.3 for example works this way.
are you shure about the 722.3? isnt that the one in the om603turbo w124?
i am pretty shure it did start enginebraking as soon as i let the pedal go up, in both 300tdt w124 i own, havent driven for a while, but when going down a hill, and knowing i used to put the gearlever in Neutral to avoid enginebraking at al, and it is quite a big difference.
or did i missunderstand something?
@Ole
moving back to a previous discussion, since putting the car in neutral and then back to drive while still moving was something that did not work, (cause of unknown speed)
could you make the W setting, or a separate switch so that when moving from Neutral to D it started in fifth gear and then downshifted to the appropriate gear?
would it be an "easy" sollution, or should i explain to father that in no way should he move the gearlever?
(about to build a 722.6 in a daily, and he will probably use it from time to time.)
---------------------------------
daily driver
w115 240d 72hp 3.07 rearend
w123 om602 turbo 200whp 7.5mm pump fivespeed 3.07 rearend
+ a few more.
mbturbo.com
swampmonkey
01-06-2016, 07:25 PM #213(01-05-2016, 08:15 PM)whipplem104 Many transmissions do not have engine braking unless you select down on the shifter which applies the appropriate clutches to provide engine braking. The 722.3 for example works this way.
are you shure about the 722.3? isnt that the one in the om603turbo w124?
i am pretty shure it did start enginebraking as soon as i let the pedal go up, in both 300tdt w124 i own, havent driven for a while, but when going down a hill, and knowing i used to put the gearlever in Neutral to avoid enginebraking at al, and it is quite a big difference.
or did i missunderstand something?
@Ole
moving back to a previous discussion, since putting the car in neutral and then back to drive while still moving was something that did not work, (cause of unknown speed)
could you make the W setting, or a separate switch so that when moving from Neutral to D it started in fifth gear and then downshifted to the appropriate gear?
would it be an "easy" sollution, or should i explain to father that in no way should he move the gearlever?
(about to build a 722.6 in a daily, and he will probably use it from time to time.)
---------------------------------
daily driver
w115 240d 72hp 3.07 rearend
w123 om602 turbo 200whp 7.5mm pump fivespeed 3.07 rearend
+ a few more.
mbturbo.com
01-06-2016, 11:58 PM
#214
whipplem104
01-06-2016, 11:58 PM #214Sorry I meant in lower gears. If you are in D it will upshift to the next gear and yes it has engine breaking i 4th because it is direct drive.
01-07-2016, 04:12 PM
#215
(01-06-2016, 07:25 PM)swampmonkey @Ole
moving back to a previous discussion, since putting the car in neutral and then back to drive while still moving was something that did not work, (cause of unknown speed)
could you make the W setting, or a separate switch so that when moving from Neutral to D it started in fifth gear and then downshifted to the appropriate gear?
would it be an "easy" sollution, or should i explain to father that in no way should he move the gearlever?
(about to build a 722.6 in a daily, and he will probably use it from time to time.)
Hi
I have been working on put it in "N" at speed as some drifters want to use this function. "as a clutch."
But it require external Speed,
In this mode it is also possible to change gears, when in N (Manual Shift)
But still to early to release the changes as i want to be more then sure i have it under Control. ;-)
.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(01-06-2016, 07:25 PM)swampmonkey @Ole
moving back to a previous discussion, since putting the car in neutral and then back to drive while still moving was something that did not work, (cause of unknown speed)
could you make the W setting, or a separate switch so that when moving from Neutral to D it started in fifth gear and then downshifted to the appropriate gear?
would it be an "easy" sollution, or should i explain to father that in no way should he move the gearlever?
(about to build a 722.6 in a daily, and he will probably use it from time to time.)
Hi
I have been working on put it in "N" at speed as some drifters want to use this function. "as a clutch."
But it require external Speed,
In this mode it is also possible to change gears, when in N (Manual Shift)
But still to early to release the changes as i want to be more then sure i have it under Control. ;-)
.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
01-08-2016, 02:34 AM
#216
(01-07-2016, 04:12 PM)olefejer Hi
I have been working on put it in "N" at speed as some drifters want to use this function. "as a clutch."
But it require external Speed,
In this mode it is also possible to change gears, when in N (Manual Shift)
But still to early to release the changes as i want to be more then sure i have it under Control. ;-)
.
thats some good news!
hmm, thought about using it as "clutch" to, but will the gearbox survive that?
since even 240mm sinter with 765 slips when under load sometimes,
i suppose any type of speedsensor would work? wonder if one could use the ABS-sensor without disrupting the ABS system itself :/
---------------------------------
daily driver
w115 240d 72hp 3.07 rearend
w123 om602 turbo 200whp 7.5mm pump fivespeed 3.07 rearend
+ a few more.
mbturbo.com
swampmonkey
01-08-2016, 02:34 AM #216(01-07-2016, 04:12 PM)olefejer Hi
I have been working on put it in "N" at speed as some drifters want to use this function. "as a clutch."
But it require external Speed,
In this mode it is also possible to change gears, when in N (Manual Shift)
But still to early to release the changes as i want to be more then sure i have it under Control. ;-)
.
thats some good news!
hmm, thought about using it as "clutch" to, but will the gearbox survive that?
since even 240mm sinter with 765 slips when under load sometimes,
i suppose any type of speedsensor would work? wonder if one could use the ABS-sensor without disrupting the ABS system itself :/
---------------------------------
daily driver
w115 240d 72hp 3.07 rearend
w123 om602 turbo 200whp 7.5mm pump fivespeed 3.07 rearend
+ a few more.
mbturbo.com
01-08-2016, 03:36 PM
#217
(01-08-2016, 02:34 AM)swampmonkey thats some good news!
hmm, thought about using it as "clutch" to, but will the gearbox survive that?
since even 240mm sinter with 765 slips when under load sometimes,
i suppose any type of speedsensor would work? wonder if one could use the ABS-sensor without disrupting the ABS system itself :/
I do not think they expect it to survive long time width the beating they give it ;-) but time will show
Yes you can use one of the Front wheel ABS sensors to give speed signal, and it does NOT disrupt the ABS system
I use the front ABS sensor on my own car, works great.
.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(01-08-2016, 02:34 AM)swampmonkey thats some good news!
hmm, thought about using it as "clutch" to, but will the gearbox survive that?
since even 240mm sinter with 765 slips when under load sometimes,
i suppose any type of speedsensor would work? wonder if one could use the ABS-sensor without disrupting the ABS system itself :/
I do not think they expect it to survive long time width the beating they give it ;-) but time will show
Yes you can use one of the Front wheel ABS sensors to give speed signal, and it does NOT disrupt the ABS system
I use the front ABS sensor on my own car, works great.
.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
03-10-2016, 01:40 PM
#219
(03-09-2016, 05:04 PM)STDGer Would be nice to see some solutions of tps mounting from members who finished the swap.
I m realy confused and need some Inspiration. It's Hard to find a original cruise control :/
Hi
Hope you can find some inspiration here :-)
http://ofgear.dk/userguide/tps.html
You do not need the cruise control, for it to work. it has nothing to do width TPS sensor
Or what do you mean that it is hard to find cruise control.
If you want the cruise control,
waeco magicspeed this is another solution,
Ole
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(03-09-2016, 05:04 PM)STDGer Would be nice to see some solutions of tps mounting from members who finished the swap.
I m realy confused and need some Inspiration. It's Hard to find a original cruise control :/
Hi
Hope you can find some inspiration here :-)
http://ofgear.dk/userguide/tps.html
You do not need the cruise control, for it to work. it has nothing to do width TPS sensor
Or what do you mean that it is hard to find cruise control.
If you want the cruise control,
waeco magicspeed this is another solution,
Ole
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
03-10-2016, 02:03 PM
#220
I wanted to say if you want to do a neutral drop on these it would depend on what gear you were in on how to do that. If you are in 4th or 5th you can simply perform a 3-2 downshift and it will be in Neutral. You would have to block the other shifts while doing this though. If you are in 3rd or lower it is harder to do. The only way to do this is to drop out b2 and that is really a lever position issue. You have to block any shifts in both situations by simply being in a full manual mode with no ratio correction. You can do it with the lever position in all cases but I thought it might be a little easier to do it in 4th and 5th electronically.
whipplem104
03-10-2016, 02:03 PM #220Ole,
I wanted to say if you want to do a neutral drop on these it would depend on what gear you were in on how to do that. If you are in 4th or 5th you can simply perform a 3-2 downshift and it will be in Neutral. You would have to block the other shifts while doing this though. If you are in 3rd or lower it is harder to do. The only way to do this is to drop out b2 and that is really a lever position issue. You have to block any shifts in both situations by simply being in a full manual mode with no ratio correction. You can do it with the lever position in all cases but I thought it might be a little easier to do it in 4th and 5th electronically.
03-10-2016, 02:25 PM
#221
(03-10-2016, 02:03 PM)whipplem104 Ole,Hi
I wanted to say if you want to do a neutral drop on these it would depend on what gear you were in on how to do that. If you are in 4th or 5th you can simply perform a 3-2 downshift and it will be in Neutral. You would have to block the other shifts while doing this though. If you are in 3rd or lower it is harder to do. The only way to do this is to drop out b2 and that is really a lever position issue. You have to block any shifts in both situations by simply being in a full manual mode with no ratio correction. You can do it with the lever position in all cases but I thought it might be a little easier to do it in 4th and 5th electronically.
When i say shift gear in "N" then i mean that the Gear Lever is moved in Neutral Position.
Then i can shift all gears. just as it was in "D" but you do not feel the shifts as it is in N
That means if i am driving in 5 gear in "D"
Then i can move the Gear Lever to "N" then preform downshift to 4 and also one more downshift then it is in 3 gear.
When i move the Gear Lever back in to "D" you are in 3 gear.
And this can work in both Manual and Automatic mode.
What you was writing about was to get it in Neutral width the Gear Lever in "D" correct ?
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(03-10-2016, 02:03 PM)whipplem104 Ole,Hi
I wanted to say if you want to do a neutral drop on these it would depend on what gear you were in on how to do that. If you are in 4th or 5th you can simply perform a 3-2 downshift and it will be in Neutral. You would have to block the other shifts while doing this though. If you are in 3rd or lower it is harder to do. The only way to do this is to drop out b2 and that is really a lever position issue. You have to block any shifts in both situations by simply being in a full manual mode with no ratio correction. You can do it with the lever position in all cases but I thought it might be a little easier to do it in 4th and 5th electronically.
When i say shift gear in "N" then i mean that the Gear Lever is moved in Neutral Position.
Then i can shift all gears. just as it was in "D" but you do not feel the shifts as it is in N
That means if i am driving in 5 gear in "D"
Then i can move the Gear Lever to "N" then preform downshift to 4 and also one more downshift then it is in 3 gear.
When i move the Gear Lever back in to "D" you are in 3 gear.
And this can work in both Manual and Automatic mode.
What you was writing about was to get it in Neutral width the Gear Lever in "D" correct ?
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
03-10-2016, 07:39 PM
#222
But yes. We do the same thing now on the current setup. It basically acts the same in N as it does in D. The only problem is if you are doing ratio detection that if you rev the engine up it can assume that it is in a lower gear. You need to block ratio detection if doing anything other than coasting. There is no way of doing ratio while in N because the input shaft is disengaged from the output. It has to follow only the manual commands or the shift tables. There is also no way of knowing that it is in sequence until you engage D again.
whipplem104
03-10-2016, 07:39 PM #222Yes, I meant while it was in the D position.
But yes. We do the same thing now on the current setup. It basically acts the same in N as it does in D. The only problem is if you are doing ratio detection that if you rev the engine up it can assume that it is in a lower gear. You need to block ratio detection if doing anything other than coasting. There is no way of doing ratio while in N because the input shaft is disengaged from the output. It has to follow only the manual commands or the shift tables. There is also no way of knowing that it is in sequence until you engage D again.
03-11-2016, 12:59 AM
#223
I thought someone did it the other way, mounting the tps sensor at the padle or used the padel from newer cars wich only had the tps sensor, and mounted the powercable.
Hah, yes man, Ive read ur guide a few times, but dont know wich Parts u used to build it this way etc.
I thought someone did it the other way, mounting the tps sensor at the padle or used the padel from newer cars wich only had the tps sensor, and mounted the powercable.
03-12-2016, 12:15 PM
#225
(03-10-2016, 07:39 PM)whipplem104 Yes, I meant while it was in the D position.
But yes. We do the same thing now on the current setup. It basically acts the same in N as it does in D. The only problem is if you are doing ratio detection that if you rev the engine up it can assume that it is in a lower gear. You need to block ratio detection if doing anything other than coasting. There is no way of doing ratio while in N because the input shaft is disengaged from the output. It has to follow only the manual commands or the shift tables. There is also no way of knowing that it is in sequence until you engage D again.
Yes ok then it all make sense.
well i only allow that the Gear Lever is put in "N" if they have External Speed sensor.
If it is put in "N" and the Controller is setup to internal Speed, it will lock all shift, and stay in the gear it is in.
"Internal speed" is that i calculate the speed of the car from the 2 sensors in the gearbox, sure i stop reading for a short time while shifting gears,
And yes i can compare "Internal speed" and "External Speed" to make sure it is in correct gear, and lock all shifting if something is wrong. (same as what you call ratio detection)
But correct that compare can not be used if you want to put in N at speed just as you describe.
This post was last modified: 03-12-2016, 12:15 PM by olefejer.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(03-10-2016, 07:39 PM)whipplem104 Yes, I meant while it was in the D position.
But yes. We do the same thing now on the current setup. It basically acts the same in N as it does in D. The only problem is if you are doing ratio detection that if you rev the engine up it can assume that it is in a lower gear. You need to block ratio detection if doing anything other than coasting. There is no way of doing ratio while in N because the input shaft is disengaged from the output. It has to follow only the manual commands or the shift tables. There is also no way of knowing that it is in sequence until you engage D again.
Yes ok then it all make sense.
well i only allow that the Gear Lever is put in "N" if they have External Speed sensor.
If it is put in "N" and the Controller is setup to internal Speed, it will lock all shift, and stay in the gear it is in.
"Internal speed" is that i calculate the speed of the car from the 2 sensors in the gearbox, sure i stop reading for a short time while shifting gears,
And yes i can compare "Internal speed" and "External Speed" to make sure it is in correct gear, and lock all shifting if something is wrong. (same as what you call ratio detection)
But correct that compare can not be used if you want to put in N at speed just as you describe.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
03-12-2016, 12:23 PM
#226
(03-11-2016, 08:15 AM)ross Ole, is there a way of making the the Holset canbus VGT work with the Gear indicator? I know your manual says it won't work.
I have got the new 2.4" OLED display and CANBUS control of the holset to work.
The problem was that they uses the same SPI bus, and i have to do some rewire on the PCB to get it to work.
Well i would be able to do a guide how to modify old controllers. if not scared of solder a wire,
but i still do some testing on the holset controller, i have a turbo width the controller on my test bench. and can control it via CANBUS
Well work is still going on regarding Holset.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(03-11-2016, 08:15 AM)ross Ole, is there a way of making the the Holset canbus VGT work with the Gear indicator? I know your manual says it won't work.
I have got the new 2.4" OLED display and CANBUS control of the holset to work.
The problem was that they uses the same SPI bus, and i have to do some rewire on the PCB to get it to work.
Well i would be able to do a guide how to modify old controllers. if not scared of solder a wire,
but i still do some testing on the holset controller, i have a turbo width the controller on my test bench. and can control it via CANBUS
Well work is still going on regarding Holset.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
03-12-2016, 12:31 PM
#227
(03-11-2016, 12:59 AM)STDGer Hah, yes man, Ive read ur guide a few times, but dont know wich Parts u used to build it this way etc.
I thought someone did it the other way, mounting the tps sensor at the padle or used the padel from newer cars wich only had the tps sensor, and mounted the powercable.
Hi
Yes it can be done in many ways, it is just impotent that the Controller gets 0-5 V TPS
No matter where it is from.
If they rewire to a pedal that has a TPS sensor that is fine.
I have just chosen to mount a TPS plug to my Cabling, for the Mercedes TPS sensor, as most people has a W210 as donar car.
So that people only has to do mechanically work, and the rest is plug in.
Hope you find a way to get i done
Maybe some inhere can share there TPS solution for inspiration :-)
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(03-11-2016, 12:59 AM)STDGer Hah, yes man, Ive read ur guide a few times, but dont know wich Parts u used to build it this way etc.
I thought someone did it the other way, mounting the tps sensor at the padle or used the padel from newer cars wich only had the tps sensor, and mounted the powercable.
Hi
Yes it can be done in many ways, it is just impotent that the Controller gets 0-5 V TPS
No matter where it is from.
If they rewire to a pedal that has a TPS sensor that is fine.
I have just chosen to mount a TPS plug to my Cabling, for the Mercedes TPS sensor, as most people has a W210 as donar car.
So that people only has to do mechanically work, and the rest is plug in.
Hope you find a way to get i done
Maybe some inhere can share there TPS solution for inspiration :-)
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
03-12-2016, 03:03 PM
#228
I just don't have that much time. And I keep redesigning my project.
However, I'm about to install everything. Few questions which I'm pretty sure have already been answered. But I can't find it or I don't understand it completely due to the language barrier.
1. I don't need the gearlever right? To keep the stock looks in the interrior. Are the w/s switches just used for mapping? Or do I need to find a solution for an external switch which simulate the w/s swich? And where do they hook up? I think there are just 2 wires for the 3 way switch? Is there any resistor involved or something? (Like the paddle wiring).
2. Can I use any type of boost sensor?
I bought the controller about a year ago. However I haven't even installed it yet
I just don't have that much time. And I keep redesigning my project.
However, I'm about to install everything. Few questions which I'm pretty sure have already been answered. But I can't find it or I don't understand it completely due to the language barrier.
1. I don't need the gearlever right? To keep the stock looks in the interrior. Are the w/s switches just used for mapping? Or do I need to find a solution for an external switch which simulate the w/s swich? And where do they hook up? I think there are just 2 wires for the 3 way switch? Is there any resistor involved or something? (Like the paddle wiring).
2. Can I use any type of boost sensor?
03-12-2016, 03:51 PM
#229
This post was last modified: 03-12-2016, 03:52 PM by erx.
1. You need gearlever which came with 722.6 box and have positions P-R-N-D-4-3-2-1 and it has S-W switch also, gear lever will work like it is working on stock car. S and W positions give you two different shift types, they have the same factory values when you get the controller but you can make changes independently and switch from one to another. If it's on S you can make changes on shift firmness and it is not changing anything on W settings and vice versa.
03-13-2016, 06:20 AM
#230
(03-12-2016, 03:03 PM)Tito I bought the controller about a year ago. However I haven't even installed it yet
I just don't have that much time. And I keep redesigning my project.
However, I'm about to install everything. Few questions which I'm pretty sure have already been answered. But I can't find it or I don't understand it completely due to the language barrier.
1. I don't need the gearlever right? To keep the stock looks in the interrior. Are the w/s switches just used for mapping? Or do I need to find a solution for an external switch which simulate the w/s swich? And where do they hook up? I think there are just 2 wires for the 3 way switch? Is there any resistor involved or something? (Like the paddle wiring).
2. Can I use any type of boost sensor?
Hi Tito
The description from ERX is correct, and the easy way is just to use the originally PRND4321 Mercedes Gear Lever. as then it is just plug in, and all function is there
But the Controller accept that you do NOT have originally Gear Lever, but you need something to move the mechanically Lever on the side of the gearbox, that is the only way to switch between PRND.
If you make you own lever for that. Then you can still make use of the W/S this is just one Wire connected to Ground or Not.
On the Label on the box you can see what wire it is it says W/S. default is "W" if the wire connect to ground it is "S"
And you have to go in to setup menu "Gear Lever" set to "NO" default choice is "MB"
2.
Yes you can use any 0-5 V boost sensor. but you have to adjust 0 point and boost at 5V in the Boost menu.
This post was last modified: 03-13-2016, 06:20 AM by olefejer.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(03-12-2016, 03:03 PM)Tito I bought the controller about a year ago. However I haven't even installed it yet
I just don't have that much time. And I keep redesigning my project.
However, I'm about to install everything. Few questions which I'm pretty sure have already been answered. But I can't find it or I don't understand it completely due to the language barrier.
1. I don't need the gearlever right? To keep the stock looks in the interrior. Are the w/s switches just used for mapping? Or do I need to find a solution for an external switch which simulate the w/s swich? And where do they hook up? I think there are just 2 wires for the 3 way switch? Is there any resistor involved or something? (Like the paddle wiring).
2. Can I use any type of boost sensor?
Hi Tito
The description from ERX is correct, and the easy way is just to use the originally PRND4321 Mercedes Gear Lever. as then it is just plug in, and all function is there
But the Controller accept that you do NOT have originally Gear Lever, but you need something to move the mechanically Lever on the side of the gearbox, that is the only way to switch between PRND.
If you make you own lever for that. Then you can still make use of the W/S this is just one Wire connected to Ground or Not.
On the Label on the box you can see what wire it is it says W/S. default is "W" if the wire connect to ground it is "S"
And you have to go in to setup menu "Gear Lever" set to "NO" default choice is "MB"
2.
Yes you can use any 0-5 V boost sensor. but you have to adjust 0 point and boost at 5V in the Boost menu.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
05-18-2016, 03:55 PM
#232
there is some bag in v172 soft/
when move selector in "2" position and try use manual shift, controller going crazy.
I do it in "w" mode by the way.
and it's does not work with weel abs sensor on w124. probably it's need some ampliefer for inductive sensor?
This post was last modified: 05-18-2016, 03:57 PM by jupel.
Hi!
there is some bag in v172 soft/
when move selector in "2" position and try use manual shift, controller going crazy.
I do it in "w" mode by the way.
and it's does not work with weel abs sensor on w124. probably it's need some ampliefer for inductive sensor?
05-19-2016, 10:40 AM
#233
(05-18-2016, 03:55 PM)jupel Hi!
there is some bag in v172 soft/
when move selector in "2" position and try use manual shift, controller going crazy.
I do it in "w" mode by the way.
and it's does not work with weel abs sensor on w124. probably it's need some ampliefer for inductive sensor?
Hi
If you want to drive in Manual, Lever should always be in "D"
If you go in to Manual by joystick or by pressing one of the "PADDLE" does not matter Lever has to be in "D"
If in W or S does not matter, W and S is exatly the same when delivered from me. if you change any parameter it will automatically be saved in the setting you are in W or S.
If you external speed is NOT working from the signal of an ABS sensor, it can be that you have one of the older controllers,
The new controller is only for inductive sensor and the signal is at wery small at low speed maby only +0,2V to -0,2V up to maby -10V to + 10V at high speed.
The older controllers was for a Hall signal 0V to 5V signal also accept 0V to 12V square signal.
This guide is only for the controller's i supply now.
http://ofgear.dk/userguide/rpmkmin.html
You can always send me pm or mail at of@ofgear.dk then i can help figure out what tybe you have.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(05-18-2016, 03:55 PM)jupel Hi!
there is some bag in v172 soft/
when move selector in "2" position and try use manual shift, controller going crazy.
I do it in "w" mode by the way.
and it's does not work with weel abs sensor on w124. probably it's need some ampliefer for inductive sensor?
Hi
If you want to drive in Manual, Lever should always be in "D"
If you go in to Manual by joystick or by pressing one of the "PADDLE" does not matter Lever has to be in "D"
If in W or S does not matter, W and S is exatly the same when delivered from me. if you change any parameter it will automatically be saved in the setting you are in W or S.
If you external speed is NOT working from the signal of an ABS sensor, it can be that you have one of the older controllers,
The new controller is only for inductive sensor and the signal is at wery small at low speed maby only +0,2V to -0,2V up to maby -10V to + 10V at high speed.
The older controllers was for a Hall signal 0V to 5V signal also accept 0V to 12V square signal.
This guide is only for the controller's i supply now.
http://ofgear.dk/userguide/rpmkmin.html
You can always send me pm or mail at of@ofgear.dk then i can help figure out what tybe you have.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
05-22-2016, 03:32 AM
#234
Speed input works nicely from abs sensor, I have just made adapter cable between front sensor plug near the battery. I just used one pair of connectors from another 124 and took the signal out from the inner cable. As olefejer said, at small speeds it doesn't work (under 15km/h it shows 0km/h or something crazy, but it works good over that).
05-22-2016, 02:17 PM
#235
(05-22-2016, 03:32 AM)Sultzi Speed input works nicely from abs sensor, I have just made adapter cable between front sensor plug near the battery. I just used one pair of connectors from another 124 and took the signal out from the inner cable. As olefejer said, at small speeds it doesn't work (under 15km/h it shows 0km/h or something crazy, but it works good over that).
That tells me that you have the older type that need around 4,5 v before counting, normally used for hall sensors, that why it does not count when the voltage is low from inductive sensor.
Only the new type inductive sensor chip i use counts from 0.2 V
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(05-22-2016, 03:32 AM)Sultzi Speed input works nicely from abs sensor, I have just made adapter cable between front sensor plug near the battery. I just used one pair of connectors from another 124 and took the signal out from the inner cable. As olefejer said, at small speeds it doesn't work (under 15km/h it shows 0km/h or something crazy, but it works good over that).
That tells me that you have the older type that need around 4,5 v before counting, normally used for hall sensors, that why it does not count when the voltage is low from inductive sensor.
Only the new type inductive sensor chip i use counts from 0.2 V
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
06-02-2016, 03:26 PM
#237
there is some new bag in v172 soft
or it is not, but when i select mode "3" in "lockup converter" i have locked converter, which still locked even low speed on 2 gear, and unlock when 1st gear goes on. it's not all the time, but some time.
i wrote, that when move selector in "2" position and try use manual shift, controller going crazy.
I did it not specially, and it's must not work that way anyway.
I understand about abs sensor, there nees something like lm1815
Hi, Ole!
there is some new bag in v172 soft
or it is not, but when i select mode "3" in "lockup converter" i have locked converter, which still locked even low speed on 2 gear, and unlock when 1st gear goes on. it's not all the time, but some time.
i wrote, that when move selector in "2" position and try use manual shift, controller going crazy.
I did it not specially, and it's must not work that way anyway.
I understand about abs sensor, there nees something like lm1815
06-03-2016, 02:19 PM
#238
(06-02-2016, 03:26 PM)jupel Hi, Ole!
there is some new bag in v172 soft
or it is not, but when i select mode "3" in "lockup converter" i have locked converter, which still locked even low speed on 2 gear, and unlock when 1st gear goes on. it's not all the time, but some time.
i wrote, that when move selector in "2" position and try use manual shift, controller going crazy.
I did it not specially, and it's must not work that way anyway.
I understand about abs sensor, there nees something like lm1815
Hi Jupel
When using Manual shift
Always have Gear Lever in "D" then it should work.
And if you have Lockup set in mode "3" you have locked converter in all gears but not if speed is under 30 km/h, then it get unlocked.
Ole
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(06-02-2016, 03:26 PM)jupel Hi, Ole!
there is some new bag in v172 soft
or it is not, but when i select mode "3" in "lockup converter" i have locked converter, which still locked even low speed on 2 gear, and unlock when 1st gear goes on. it's not all the time, but some time.
i wrote, that when move selector in "2" position and try use manual shift, controller going crazy.
I did it not specially, and it's must not work that way anyway.
I understand about abs sensor, there nees something like lm1815
Hi Jupel
When using Manual shift
Always have Gear Lever in "D" then it should work.
And if you have Lockup set in mode "3" you have locked converter in all gears but not if speed is under 30 km/h, then it get unlocked.
Ole
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
06-03-2016, 03:24 PM
#239
Hi Jupel
When using Manual shift
Always have Gear Lever in "D" then it should work.
And if you have Lockup set in mode "3" you have locked converter in all gears but not if speed is under 30 km/h, then it get unlocked.
Ole
[/quote]
Hi Ole!
in manual mode it was unawares, i not want it, just touch manual shift lever, anyway it not correct.
in mode "3", gear lever in "d" - it not unlock converter under 30 km/h, only when 1st gear it unlocked, why?
This post was last modified: 06-03-2016, 03:26 PM by jupel.
[/quote]
Hi Jupel
When using Manual shift
Always have Gear Lever in "D" then it should work.
And if you have Lockup set in mode "3" you have locked converter in all gears but not if speed is under 30 km/h, then it get unlocked.
Ole
[/quote]
Hi Ole!
in manual mode it was unawares, i not want it, just touch manual shift lever, anyway it not correct.
in mode "3", gear lever in "d" - it not unlock converter under 30 km/h, only when 1st gear it unlocked, why?
06-03-2016, 03:36 PM
#240
in manual mode it was unawares, i not want it, just touch manual shift lever, anyway it not correct.
in mode "3", gear lever in "d" - it not unlock converter under 30 km/h, only when 1st gear it unlocked, why?
[/quote]
What software version du you have ?
Look in about
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
Hi Ole!
in manual mode it was unawares, i not want it, just touch manual shift lever, anyway it not correct.
in mode "3", gear lever in "d" - it not unlock converter under 30 km/h, only when 1st gear it unlocked, why?
[/quote]
What software version du you have ?
Look in about
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
06-06-2016, 04:19 PM
#241
I'm running your controller and it works great, but I have a quastion:
When I'm cruzing around on the highway and lockup is engaged and and I have very little throttle just enough to maintain my speed. It feels like it's : unlocks...locks....unlocks etc....
It's like a smal jerk every time. Is there a valu I can change to make that go away?
And another ting. When in manual mode is it possible to increase the pressure even more in the 3-4 gear change? I think I'm experiencing some tiny slippage.
Thank you!
/Markus
------------------------------------------------
Cars currently owned:
1993 Mercedes Benz 300TDT W124
1992 Mercedes Benz 500E W124
Hello Ole!
I'm running your controller and it works great, but I have a quastion:
When I'm cruzing around on the highway and lockup is engaged and and I have very little throttle just enough to maintain my speed. It feels like it's : unlocks...locks....unlocks etc....
It's like a smal jerk every time. Is there a valu I can change to make that go away?
And another ting. When in manual mode is it possible to increase the pressure even more in the 3-4 gear change? I think I'm experiencing some tiny slippage.
Thank you!
/Markus
------------------------------------------------
Cars currently owned:
1993 Mercedes Benz 300TDT W124
1992 Mercedes Benz 500E W124
06-06-2016, 07:06 PM
#242
87 300SDL OM606 swapped HE351VE 722.633 swapped, Crower cams, KM valvesprings
76 300TD custom lots of stuff
06 Mercedes CL65 AMG 619 WHP, http://TurboTims.com
I also had this issue. I was able to resolve mine by doing the TPS learn with very slight amount of throttle if I remember correctly.
87 300SDL OM606 swapped HE351VE 722.633 swapped, Crower cams, KM valvesprings
76 300TD custom lots of stuff
06 Mercedes CL65 AMG 619 WHP, http://TurboTims.com
06-07-2016, 01:04 PM
#243
(06-06-2016, 04:19 PM)-Mackan- Hello Ole!
I'm running your controller and it works great, but I have a quastion:
When I'm cruzing around on the highway and lockup is engaged and and I have very little throttle just enough to maintain my speed. It feels like it's : unlocks...locks....unlocks etc....
It's like a smal jerk every time. Is there a valu I can change to make that go away?
And another ting. When in manual mode is it possible to increase the pressure even more in the 3-4 gear change? I think I'm experiencing some tiny slippage.
Thank you!
/Markus
Hi
You should make sure that actually the TPS sensor move as much as possible together with the movement of the trottle. what does the trottle show when you are crousing ?
And make sure that the TPS value start rise as soon you tutch the trottle.
Also you can send me you SW version from in "About" then i know what you can adjust regarding lockup.
As there has been more updates regarding Lockup to get is as soft as possible.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(06-06-2016, 04:19 PM)-Mackan- Hello Ole!
I'm running your controller and it works great, but I have a quastion:
When I'm cruzing around on the highway and lockup is engaged and and I have very little throttle just enough to maintain my speed. It feels like it's : unlocks...locks....unlocks etc....
It's like a smal jerk every time. Is there a valu I can change to make that go away?
And another ting. When in manual mode is it possible to increase the pressure even more in the 3-4 gear change? I think I'm experiencing some tiny slippage.
Thank you!
/Markus
Hi
You should make sure that actually the TPS sensor move as much as possible together with the movement of the trottle. what does the trottle show when you are crousing ?
And make sure that the TPS value start rise as soon you tutch the trottle.
Also you can send me you SW version from in "About" then i know what you can adjust regarding lockup.
As there has been more updates regarding Lockup to get is as soft as possible.
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
06-07-2016, 02:56 PM
#244
(06-06-2016, 04:19 PM)-Mackan- And another ting. When in manual mode is it possible to increase the pressure even more in the 3-4 gear change? I think I'm experiencing some tiny slippage.
Thank you! Markus
Hi Marcus
Yes you can
Ues the "Shift Firmness " menu to make 3-4 harder.
Or use "Rate last shift" when it shifts from 3->4 if you think it was to soft, press joystick up to tell it was to soft. next time it will be a little harder at that LOAD.
That way you correction are automatically saved the right place
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(06-06-2016, 04:19 PM)-Mackan- And another ting. When in manual mode is it possible to increase the pressure even more in the 3-4 gear change? I think I'm experiencing some tiny slippage.
Thank you! Markus
Hi Marcus
Yes you can
Ues the "Shift Firmness " menu to make 3-4 harder.
Or use "Rate last shift" when it shifts from 3->4 if you think it was to soft, press joystick up to tell it was to soft. next time it will be a little harder at that LOAD.
That way you correction are automatically saved the right place
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
06-08-2016, 05:14 PM
#245
(06-07-2016, 02:56 PM)olefejer(06-06-2016, 04:19 PM)-Mackan- And another ting. When in manual mode is it possible to increase the pressure even more in the 3-4 gear change? I think I'm experiencing some tiny slippage.
Thank you! Markus
Hi Marcus
Yes you can
Ues the "Shift Firmness " menu to make 3-4 harder.
Or use "Rate last shift" when it shifts from 3->4 if you think it was to soft, press joystick up to tell it was to soft. next time it will be a little harder at that LOAD.
That way you correction are automatically saved the right place
I'll come back to you tomorrow regarding the "about".
Does the rate last shift option affect shift firmness I manual mode also? Its only on full throttle shifting I think I'm experiencing some slipping. I have infackt used the rate last shift a lot in automatic mode, but I can't use it in manual mode since when i press left on the joystick to exit manual mode it instantly switches to automatic mode. Maby that's a part of the reason that I haven't been able to enter manual mode just by touching my manual gear leaver up or down. Has that something to do with the 3rd yellow wire? (Other than the two 56k ohm and the 32k ohm?)
Edit:
SwVersion : 173
HwVersion : 4
This post was last modified: 06-09-2016, 05:53 AM by -Mackan-.
------------------------------------------------
Cars currently owned:
1993 Mercedes Benz 300TDT W124
1992 Mercedes Benz 500E W124
(06-07-2016, 02:56 PM)olefejer(06-06-2016, 04:19 PM)-Mackan- And another ting. When in manual mode is it possible to increase the pressure even more in the 3-4 gear change? I think I'm experiencing some tiny slippage.
Thank you! Markus
Hi Marcus
Yes you can
Ues the "Shift Firmness " menu to make 3-4 harder.
Or use "Rate last shift" when it shifts from 3->4 if you think it was to soft, press joystick up to tell it was to soft. next time it will be a little harder at that LOAD.
That way you correction are automatically saved the right place
I'll come back to you tomorrow regarding the "about".
Does the rate last shift option affect shift firmness I manual mode also? Its only on full throttle shifting I think I'm experiencing some slipping. I have infackt used the rate last shift a lot in automatic mode, but I can't use it in manual mode since when i press left on the joystick to exit manual mode it instantly switches to automatic mode. Maby that's a part of the reason that I haven't been able to enter manual mode just by touching my manual gear leaver up or down. Has that something to do with the 3rd yellow wire? (Other than the two 56k ohm and the 32k ohm?)
Edit:
SwVersion : 173
HwVersion : 4
------------------------------------------------
Cars currently owned:
1993 Mercedes Benz 300TDT W124
1992 Mercedes Benz 500E W124
06-11-2016, 04:27 PM
#246
Gearbox temp around 80 deg
And yes it also effect Manual shift.
You can always go in to Shift Firmness menu to see changes the Rate Last shift has made.
You have to have display showing main menu to be able to have it jump to Manual as soon you hit one of the Paddles.
The third wire with 1K resistor is for activate horn output, as normally on older car there is only one wire true steering column.
http://ofgear.dk/userguide/paddle.html
Ole
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
The Rate last shift should be used in automatic only
Gearbox temp around 80 deg
And yes it also effect Manual shift.
You can always go in to Shift Firmness menu to see changes the Rate Last shift has made.
You have to have display showing main menu to be able to have it jump to Manual as soon you hit one of the Paddles.
The third wire with 1K resistor is for activate horn output, as normally on older car there is only one wire true steering column.
http://ofgear.dk/userguide/paddle.html
Ole
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
06-25-2016, 05:54 AM
#247
Good stuff.
I just wanted to thank Ole for all the hard work he has done with his controller and the great help he has always given with setting it up. My old G 350 is now flying. So much nicer to drive at speed. The controller has worked faultlessly for over 300 miles so far. The only real difference is that the car needs to be at a standstill (foot on the brake) when changing into low ratio. It can all be fine tuned depending on if you use it mainly on the road or not. Most importantly you MUST use the' external speed' sensing from ABS, Speedo or another sensor. I'm taking orders for conversions now!!
Good stuff.
08-14-2016, 02:18 PM
#248
This post was last modified: 08-14-2016, 02:20 PM by TurboTim.
87 300SDL OM606 swapped HE351VE 722.633 swapped, Crower cams, KM valvesprings
76 300TD custom lots of stuff
06 Mercedes CL65 AMG 619 WHP, http://TurboTims.com
Does anyone have a good file I can look at. My laptop corrupted my file and I just want to get it to shift like it used to but it isnt and now I have been changing so much stuff that I think I am making it worse. I am also trying to get my external speed to work. Has anyone had success getting the stock rear ABS sensor on the diff of a W126 to work?
87 300SDL OM606 swapped HE351VE 722.633 swapped, Crower cams, KM valvesprings
76 300TD custom lots of stuff
06 Mercedes CL65 AMG 619 WHP, http://TurboTims.com
09-05-2016, 05:49 AM
#249
If there is what do I need for this?
Is there any way to hook up and display (exhaust gas temp) to the controller display. I have the OLED Display 2,4".
If there is what do I need for this?
09-05-2016, 12:15 PM
#250
(09-05-2016, 05:49 AM)mower16 Is there any way to hook up and display (exhaust gas temp) to the controller display. I have the OLED Display 2,4".
If there is what do I need for this?
No sorry that is not possible.
I rather concentrate on fine tune the gearbox software then add new feature.
But who know in the future maby. ;-)
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
(09-05-2016, 05:49 AM)mower16 Is there any way to hook up and display (exhaust gas temp) to the controller display. I have the OLED Display 2,4".
If there is what do I need for this?
No sorry that is not possible.
I rather concentrate on fine tune the gearbox software then add new feature.
But who know in the future maby. ;-)
1996 MB SL320 Now OM606 7 mm pump elements (myna), KKD manifold, HE341VE, 3,5" downpipe, 3" exhaust, big IC, 722.6 gearbox controller, also controls (Turbo VNT, EGT, BOOST, EGP.)
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