Dieselmeken om617a Super M pump setup
Dieselmeken om617a Super M pump setup
1. Can someone explain the step by step procedure for installing and timing this new pump? I have read other posts but get confused.
2. How and at what timing should I set this pump? 17*? Again I've read up on this previously but would love to have a walk through.
Any first hand experience with installing and running this pump would also be greatly appreciated as I am going from the MW to the M. What challenges am I facing?
Plan for now is;
1. Install and time pump (expected lots of black smoke and high egt).
2. Install bigger turbo (I plan on running the Holset Hx/hy 30 if I can find one). Hopefully this takes care of some of the smoke.
3. Install intercooler to combat high EGTs.
4. If still lots of black smoke and high EGTs I'll turn down the fuel to match the turbo and intercooler.
I would like to ask the STD community for some direction on how to setup/install a Dieselmeken Super M pump on my current om617a MW engine.
1. Can someone explain the step by step procedure for installing and timing this new pump? I have read other posts but get confused.
2. How and at what timing should I set this pump? 17*? Again I've read up on this previously but would love to have a walk through.
Any first hand experience with installing and running this pump would also be greatly appreciated as I am going from the MW to the M. What challenges am I facing?
Plan for now is;
1. Install and time pump (expected lots of black smoke and high egt).
2. Install bigger turbo (I plan on running the Holset Hx/hy 30 if I can find one). Hopefully this takes care of some of the smoke.
3. Install intercooler to combat high EGTs.
4. If still lots of black smoke and high EGTs I'll turn down the fuel to match the turbo and intercooler.
1: u take the old pump out, before u set the engine at 24ºBTDC. cylinder one in the way to combustion time.
2: with the pump there will be a gear with a missing tooth, and ring that will slide on top that gear like a glove. inspect that ...
3: Tap the MW oil feed pump, at the engine block. fill the M pump with engine oil new engine oil. both the governor housing and the cam housing.
4: the missing tooth in the pump gear should align with a mark in the pump body.
5: slide the pump in the engine, everithing should be done by hand, make sure it bolts right and can be done smoth.
6: turn the engine 720º make sure nothing is touching, or outsider the right place.
7:conect the fuel lines as the MW, install the hard lines , the old ones should be good but they need to be reshaped, carefull when reshaping them.
8: fire the engine with assistance, watch for a runway engine,
9:fine tune the timing, by listening or using a timing gun, if a timing gun is used at OT at crankshaft, the device should read 16, to 17.5.
PS: pump twards the engine advances
10: after 500km search for the presence of black oil inside the pump. if oil is not black, something is bad in the autolub circuit. fill the pump periodically.
good luck with it.
FD,
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hello ,
1: u take the old pump out, before u set the engine at 24ºBTDC. cylinder one in the way to combustion time.
2: with the pump there will be a gear with a missing tooth, and ring that will slide on top that gear like a glove. inspect that ...
3: Tap the MW oil feed pump, at the engine block. fill the M pump with engine oil new engine oil. both the governor housing and the cam housing.
4: the missing tooth in the pump gear should align with a mark in the pump body.
5: slide the pump in the engine, everithing should be done by hand, make sure it bolts right and can be done smoth.
6: turn the engine 720º make sure nothing is touching, or outsider the right place.
7:conect the fuel lines as the MW, install the hard lines , the old ones should be good but they need to be reshaped, carefull when reshaping them.
8: fire the engine with assistance, watch for a runway engine,
9:fine tune the timing, by listening or using a timing gun, if a timing gun is used at OT at crankshaft, the device should read 16, to 17.5.
PS: pump twards the engine advances
10: after 500km search for the presence of black oil inside the pump. if oil is not black, something is bad in the autolub circuit. fill the pump periodically.
good luck with it.
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
Most of this applies except you don't really need to drip time, you can time it by listening to the engine run.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/dies...g-how.html
And it may be easier to set the engine to 45* BTDC on the compression stroke and the pump to 2 teeth before start of injection. In my experience the pump might want to turn back if set with the missing tooth aligned, making installation harder.
Most of this applies except you don't really need to drip time, you can time it by listening to the engine run.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/dies...g-how.html
Got the new M-pump today and it looks great! In comparing the two I noticed the the MW has two fuel lines connected to it, one on the left and one on the right. The M pump only has one on the right that I can see. Where or what do I do with the extra fuel?
1978 300D, 373,000km... OM617.912 with a Holset HX30W, 7.5mm IP, 711.113 5 speed (project car, 7 years off the road and counting ;/)
1977 250 270,000km (parts car)
1977 300D (ex 280) 500,000km
1981 240D 498,000
1975 HJ45 ???,000
2001 2.8TD Rodeo 4x2 - 456,000 - DD
There's the input on the front end and output/ return on the engine side as with the MW. Some real souped up pumps have two inputs though to make things interesting
1978 300D, 373,000km... OM617.912 with a Holset HX30W, 7.5mm IP, 711.113 5 speed (project car, 7 years off the road and counting ;/)
1977 250 270,000km (parts car)
1977 300D (ex 280) 500,000km
1981 240D 498,000
1975 HJ45 ???,000
2001 2.8TD Rodeo 4x2 - 456,000 - DD
I recently bought an M pump with 7.5mm elements from Dieselmeken and attempted to install it in my 1976 W123. The engine was naturally aspirated but now has a turbo. I have been running the old NA MW pump for years, but it needs more fuel...enter the M super pump.
I had a lot of trouble fitting it despite the good instructions above. 2 things have stopped me:
1) The diameter of the large locating flange / front cover of the new pump is 0.01 mm bigger and doesn't quite fit. I'm sure I can get a round this by putting the pump in the freezer or something.
2) The input shaft is about 10mm longer on the M than the MW and that appears to be 5mm too long. I need to triple check this again, but I feel like it will need a spacer.
But that isn't my biggest problem: I made a terrible, hasty decision and tried to swap the locating ring / front cover on the MW with the M both to make it fit more easily but also the oil access hole on the MW looked bigger and I had some concerns about adequate oiling on the M pump, which does not have a pressurised oil feed like the MW. After opening it up I realised this was never going to work as the inner shaft diameters are different as are the bearings. FAIL.
Of course, when I opened it up, the cam moved sideways and now won't re-locate easily so I can re-install the cover. I don't want to force anything and do any more damage than I already have. Double FAIL.
Has anyone ever had the cover off one of these pumps before and am I going to be able to get it back on without major surgery?
Any thoughts and prayers appreciated.
1976 W123 300D auto formerly NA OM617 with Dieselmeken 7.5mm M-pump + T40E turbo upgrade + 3" straight through exhaust + water/methanol injection + plenty of patina. Running on 100% homebrewed biodiesel
Hi guys,
I recently bought an M pump with 7.5mm elements from Dieselmeken and attempted to install it in my 1976 W123. The engine was naturally aspirated but now has a turbo. I have been running the old NA MW pump for years, but it needs more fuel...enter the M super pump.
I had a lot of trouble fitting it despite the good instructions above. 2 things have stopped me:
1) The diameter of the large locating flange / front cover of the new pump is 0.01 mm bigger and doesn't quite fit. I'm sure I can get a round this by putting the pump in the freezer or something.
2) The input shaft is about 10mm longer on the M than the MW and that appears to be 5mm too long. I need to triple check this again, but I feel like it will need a spacer.
But that isn't my biggest problem: I made a terrible, hasty decision and tried to swap the locating ring / front cover on the MW with the M both to make it fit more easily but also the oil access hole on the MW looked bigger and I had some concerns about adequate oiling on the M pump, which does not have a pressurised oil feed like the MW. After opening it up I realised this was never going to work as the inner shaft diameters are different as are the bearings. FAIL.
Of course, when I opened it up, the cam moved sideways and now won't re-locate easily so I can re-install the cover. I don't want to force anything and do any more damage than I already have. Double FAIL.
Has anyone ever had the cover off one of these pumps before and am I going to be able to get it back on without major surgery?
Any thoughts and prayers appreciated.
1976 W123 300D auto formerly NA OM617 with Dieselmeken 7.5mm M-pump + T40E turbo upgrade + 3" straight through exhaust + water/methanol injection + plenty of patina. Running on 100% homebrewed biodiesel
1976 W123 300D auto formerly NA OM617 with Dieselmeken 7.5mm M-pump + T40E turbo upgrade + 3" straight through exhaust + water/methanol injection + plenty of patina. Running on 100% homebrewed biodiesel
Thanks, barrote. I forced it and it went back in no worries. Pump is also in the car now and seems to be going well so far. The auto transmission isn't loving it though. Flares badly when the boost is on, so need to sort that out.
1976 W123 300D auto formerly NA OM617 with Dieselmeken 7.5mm M-pump + T40E turbo upgrade + 3" straight through exhaust + water/methanol injection + plenty of patina. Running on 100% homebrewed biodiesel
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