alda removal
alda removal
12-07-2009, 10:52 PM
#1
rjonesusaf
12-07-2009, 10:52 PM #1i know it has prob been covered but how the hell do i remove the alda or at least adjust it? im new to MB diesel.
12-08-2009, 01:37 AM
#2
(12-07-2009, 10:52 PM)rjonesusaf i know it has prob been covered but how the hell do i remove the alda or at least adjust it? im new to MB diesel.
Its kind of a pain. The nut underneath the thing draws the ALDA down into a hole in the top of the IP... kind of like a flare fitting. So you need to get a wrench on that thing and grab the ALDA housing with either large channel-locks or a big wrench and loosen the nut. Then the nut will spin freely and you can remove the ALDA. Make sense?
GREASY_BEAST
12-08-2009, 01:37 AM #2(12-07-2009, 10:52 PM)rjonesusaf i know it has prob been covered but how the hell do i remove the alda or at least adjust it? im new to MB diesel.
Its kind of a pain. The nut underneath the thing draws the ALDA down into a hole in the top of the IP... kind of like a flare fitting. So you need to get a wrench on that thing and grab the ALDA housing with either large channel-locks or a big wrench and loosen the nut. Then the nut will spin freely and you can remove the ALDA. Make sense?
12-08-2009, 01:31 PM
#4
thanks
W116Lorinser
12-08-2009, 01:31 PM #4what is the point of the ALDA though... and is there a thread on here that goes into detail on it.... cause i cant seem to find it..
thanks
12-08-2009, 01:36 PM
#5
Removing it will not increase power but it will stop the "rush" of power as the turbo builds boost during normal driving.
ForcedInduction
12-08-2009, 01:36 PM
#5
Its purely an emissions control device. It prevents visible smoke out the exhaust during low boost and high throttle conditions.
Removing it will not increase power but it will stop the "rush" of power as the turbo builds boost during normal driving.
rjonesusaf
12-08-2009, 11:06 PM #6ok thank you. now how about rack limiter what is it and what dose it do?
12-10-2009, 10:52 AM
#7
Rack limiter limits how far the rack can open, without it, it hits a an internal max stop. Check the threads related to these, plenty of info on all of this.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
My opinion on the ALDA. It servers more than just a emissions device, it also is a mechanical "anti jerk" device, that is when coming off idle it keeps the car from jerking. The later electronic controlled IP's have this feature built in.
Rack limiter limits how far the rack can open, without it, it hits a an internal max stop. Check the threads related to these, plenty of info on all of this.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
12-10-2009, 05:07 PM
#8
(12-10-2009, 10:52 AM)winmutt It servers more than just a emissions device, it also is a mechanical "anti jerk" device, that is when coming off idle it keeps the car from jerking.I disagree. Removing my ALDA eliminated all the jerking from my conversion.
ForcedInduction
12-10-2009, 05:07 PM
#8
(12-10-2009, 10:52 AM)winmutt It servers more than just a emissions device, it also is a mechanical "anti jerk" device, that is when coming off idle it keeps the car from jerking.I disagree. Removing my ALDA eliminated all the jerking from my conversion.
12-25-2009, 10:45 AM
#9
(12-10-2009, 05:07 PM)ForcedInduction(12-10-2009, 10:52 AM)winmutt It servers more than just a emissions device, it also is a mechanical "anti jerk" device, that is when coming off idle it keeps the car from jerking.I disagree. Removing my ALDA eliminated all the jerking from my conversion.
At this risk of starting a war, I also disagree. On the W124 diesels with OM60x engines, removing the ALDA on an otherwise properly calibrated pump will result in screwed-up throttle response and transmission shifting problems. The ALDA should be adjusted properly but still connected - if set up correctly, there is ZERO loss of power off idle, at part throttle, or at WOT.
The MW pump on the 617.95x may be a different story, those pumps all seem to be way lean after 25+ years, which is why so many people pull the ALDA with no apparent ill effects.
[flame suit on]
This post was last modified: 12-25-2009, 10:45 AM by gsxr.
Dave M.
Boise, ID, USA
1997 E420 - 149kmi (Bugeyes)
1994 E420 - 136kmi (Blondie)
1994 E500 - 116kmi (Q-ship)
1992 500E - 179kmi (Mach 5)
1987 300D - 330kmi (Sportline Stage 2)
Click here for my website!
(12-10-2009, 05:07 PM)ForcedInduction(12-10-2009, 10:52 AM)winmutt It servers more than just a emissions device, it also is a mechanical "anti jerk" device, that is when coming off idle it keeps the car from jerking.I disagree. Removing my ALDA eliminated all the jerking from my conversion.
At this risk of starting a war, I also disagree. On the W124 diesels with OM60x engines, removing the ALDA on an otherwise properly calibrated pump will result in screwed-up throttle response and transmission shifting problems. The ALDA should be adjusted properly but still connected - if set up correctly, there is ZERO loss of power off idle, at part throttle, or at WOT.
The MW pump on the 617.95x may be a different story, those pumps all seem to be way lean after 25+ years, which is why so many people pull the ALDA with no apparent ill effects.
[flame suit on]
Dave M.
Boise, ID, USA
1997 E420 - 149kmi (Bugeyes)
1994 E420 - 136kmi (Blondie)
1994 E500 - 116kmi (Q-ship)
1992 500E - 179kmi (Mach 5)
1987 300D - 330kmi (Sportline Stage 2)
Click here for my website!
12-25-2009, 01:00 PM
#11
(12-25-2009, 10:50 AM)Jdmills Why do the injection pumps go 'lean'? Is it most common on the MW pump? How much variance would you guess there is between one pump to the next?
Both pumps I had on my engine were about the same, one had 380Kmi, the other has about 340Kmi. It would be interesting to slap on a fresh pump and see the difference, but that experiment would be worth more than the car
.
This post was last modified: 12-25-2009, 01:01 PM by GREASY_BEAST.
GREASY_BEAST
12-25-2009, 01:00 PM #11(12-25-2009, 10:50 AM)Jdmills Why do the injection pumps go 'lean'? Is it most common on the MW pump? How much variance would you guess there is between one pump to the next?
Both pumps I had on my engine were about the same, one had 380Kmi, the other has about 340Kmi. It would be interesting to slap on a fresh pump and see the difference, but that experiment would be worth more than the car
.
12-25-2009, 03:55 PM
#12
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-25-2009, 03:55 PM #12I don't see why it needs to be removed I just max out the alda adjustment to full rich at idle and it pulls very well and leaves a nice black/gray bomb until the turbo spools up on mw123 300d turbo! I also noticed that the turbo spools little quicker when adjusted that way!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
12-25-2009, 04:53 PM
#13
(12-25-2009, 03:55 PM)willbhere4u I don't see why it needs to be removed I just max out the alda adjustment to full rich at idle and it pulls very well and leaves a nice black/gray bomb until the turbo spools up on mw123 300d turbo! I also noticed that the turbo spools little quicker when adjusted that way!Sounds like it's now too rich. You want it at the point where if you turn it up any richer, there's no additional power gain (or conversely, if you turn it any leaner, you start losing off-idle power). A small puff of smoke leaving a stop is ok, but a cloud indicates wasted fuel.
This post was last modified: 12-25-2009, 10:05 PM by gsxr.
(12-25-2009, 03:55 PM)willbhere4u I don't see why it needs to be removed I just max out the alda adjustment to full rich at idle and it pulls very well and leaves a nice black/gray bomb until the turbo spools up on mw123 300d turbo! I also noticed that the turbo spools little quicker when adjusted that way!Sounds like it's now too rich. You want it at the point where if you turn it up any richer, there's no additional power gain (or conversely, if you turn it any leaner, you start losing off-idle power). A small puff of smoke leaving a stop is ok, but a cloud indicates wasted fuel.
12-25-2009, 09:35 PM
#14
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-25-2009, 09:35 PM #14The puff depends on how much throttle input you use! plus with the k26 it spools up really quickly the way it is. and it doesn't smoke at idle so it's good enough for me! plus it has a lot of off the line TQ
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
12-25-2009, 10:09 PM
#15
[climbs off soapbox]
This post was last modified: 12-25-2009, 10:10 PM by gsxr.
I've never understood the fascination people have with being able to over-fuel with their right foot, instead of setting up the ALDA properly. *shrug* Myna doesn't do it, the couple of Bosch shops I've talked to about custom pump work don't recommend it, and my personal experimentation [with either ALDA removal or over-fueling] has resulted in zero improvement in either power or driveability. But hey, whatever floats your boat...
[climbs off soapbox]
12-26-2009, 12:03 AM
#16
and check out this video fuel = power http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7xnl_yAD4SQ
I don't care whats coming out the back as long as I can see in front
This post was last modified: 12-26-2009, 12:05 AM by willbhere4u.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-26-2009, 12:03 AM #16Hey my 240d turbo has an ADA and it do sent smoke at all!!! all the ALDA dose is limit fuel until boost is achieved its purely an emissions device so it wont smoke as much off the line! but I can tell that little bit of extra fuel really helps get thing going the TQ before boost is really nice and the turbo spools almost 500rpm earlier and a little puff of black smoke isn't hurting any thing!
and check out this video fuel = power http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7xnl_yAD4SQ
I don't care whats coming out the back as long as I can see in front
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
12-26-2009, 07:09 AM
#17
(12-25-2009, 10:45 AM)gsxr At this risk of starting a war, I also disagree. On the W124 diesels with OM60x engines, removing the ALDA on an otherwise properly calibrated pump will result in screwed-up throttle response and transmission shifting problems.
There is no reason it should be allowed to. Adjust the bowden cable, linkage rods, vacuum control valve and everything will be smooth. If the vehicle can be tuned to work with it, it can be tuned to work without. You'd have to do that no matter what if you increase the fueling rate (max. load screw).
As has been said before, the ALDA is just an emissions device. It has no importance to tuning other than preventing smoke in low boost and high throttle conditions.
Quote:*shrug* Myna doesn't do it,Have you actually watched a myna-powered video?
I have yet to see a single one that doesn't puke black smoke. Even the supercharged engines used in the Green wagon (both the 617 and 606) smoke when they revv it!
Attached is just a small sample of Myna powered vehicles.
This post was last modified: 12-26-2009, 07:26 AM by ForcedInduction.
Attached Files
Image(s)ForcedInduction
12-26-2009, 07:09 AM
#17
(12-25-2009, 10:45 AM)gsxr At this risk of starting a war, I also disagree. On the W124 diesels with OM60x engines, removing the ALDA on an otherwise properly calibrated pump will result in screwed-up throttle response and transmission shifting problems.
There is no reason it should be allowed to. Adjust the bowden cable, linkage rods, vacuum control valve and everything will be smooth. If the vehicle can be tuned to work with it, it can be tuned to work without. You'd have to do that no matter what if you increase the fueling rate (max. load screw).
As has been said before, the ALDA is just an emissions device. It has no importance to tuning other than preventing smoke in low boost and high throttle conditions.
Quote:*shrug* Myna doesn't do it,Have you actually watched a myna-powered video?
I have yet to see a single one that doesn't puke black smoke. Even the supercharged engines used in the Green wagon (both the 617 and 606) smoke when they revv it!
Attached is just a small sample of Myna powered vehicles.
Attached Files
Image(s)
12-26-2009, 05:41 PM
#18
(12-26-2009, 07:09 AM)ForcedInduction There is no reason it should be allowed to. Adjust the bowden cable, linkage rods, vacuum control valve and everything will be smooth. If the vehicle can be tuned to work with it, it can be tuned to work without. You'd have to do that no matter what if you increase the fueling rate (max. load screw).
Sorry, Forced, I still disagree with you... at least on a W124 with OM603 engine. With the full load maxed out, there is simply way too much fuel delivered at low RPM's. The second half of throttle travel is useless... the power that used to require 60-70% pedal travel, now only requires 20-30% travel. You end up with too-early shifting and possible flaring, along with a touchy accelerator pedal. You can't compensate via Bowden cable because when it's shortened up enough to fix the shift RPM's, it then restricts throttle linkage movement, and will bend the brackets if you force the pedal to the floor! Been there, done that. And, the end result offers ABSOLUTELY NOTHING except an 8-ounce (?) weight savings from the ALDA removal! Again - it offers NO ADVANTAGE except a nice placebo effect that you get "more control" over the rack (which I still disagree with, but if it makes you happy, that's fine).
The "adjustment" you speak of is installing the ALDA and setting it to correctly fuel at low RPM / low throttle settings. The power delivery should be linear from min throttle to max throttle, not peaking at 50% throttle travel. Again, your experience with 617 engines may differ, and I can't debate that since I no longer own any 617's. Maybe it works great on those, but on the OM60x, no freaking way.
(12-26-2009, 07:09 AM)ForcedInduction As has been said before, the ALDA is just an emissions device. It has no importance to tuning other than preventing smoke in low boost and high throttle conditions.
This is not true. The ALDA also makes the throttle action more linear, as described above. This is critical because the transmission vac signal is derived entirely based on throttle position, not engine load as on a gas engine. And the VCV on the side of the OM60x IP does not work well at all when it's tweaked... it's designed to be set to the max throttle linkage position only (i.e., you can't tweak it in either direction to tailor shift quality to your liking). When the VCV is anywhere outside the factory-specified setting, it results is screwy shifting, Been there, done that too. Again, the 617 has a totally different VCV setup on the MW pumps so maybe you have adjustments which work on an MW-fueled 617.
(12-26-2009, 07:09 AM)ForcedInductionQuote:*shrug* Myna doesn't do it,Have you actually watched a myna-powered video?
True, they do smoke, but they also have the ALDA installed to try and compensate. And those are all massively modified engines with enormous turbos, usually making double to triple stock rated power. It's not a valid comparison against a stock engine with stock injection pump. Stock turbos spool up far quicker which is why they normally don't smoke much, if at all. I wonder how the cars in those videos would perform with their ALDAs removed.
How about a video of a car in the USA that went from stock performance to much faster than stock, just by removing the ALDA?
Dave M.
Boise, ID, USA
1997 E420 - 149kmi (Bugeyes)
1994 E420 - 136kmi (Blondie)
1994 E500 - 116kmi (Q-ship)
1992 500E - 179kmi (Mach 5)
1987 300D - 330kmi (Sportline Stage 2)
Click here for my website!
(12-26-2009, 07:09 AM)ForcedInduction There is no reason it should be allowed to. Adjust the bowden cable, linkage rods, vacuum control valve and everything will be smooth. If the vehicle can be tuned to work with it, it can be tuned to work without. You'd have to do that no matter what if you increase the fueling rate (max. load screw).
Sorry, Forced, I still disagree with you... at least on a W124 with OM603 engine. With the full load maxed out, there is simply way too much fuel delivered at low RPM's. The second half of throttle travel is useless... the power that used to require 60-70% pedal travel, now only requires 20-30% travel. You end up with too-early shifting and possible flaring, along with a touchy accelerator pedal. You can't compensate via Bowden cable because when it's shortened up enough to fix the shift RPM's, it then restricts throttle linkage movement, and will bend the brackets if you force the pedal to the floor! Been there, done that. And, the end result offers ABSOLUTELY NOTHING except an 8-ounce (?) weight savings from the ALDA removal! Again - it offers NO ADVANTAGE except a nice placebo effect that you get "more control" over the rack (which I still disagree with, but if it makes you happy, that's fine).
The "adjustment" you speak of is installing the ALDA and setting it to correctly fuel at low RPM / low throttle settings. The power delivery should be linear from min throttle to max throttle, not peaking at 50% throttle travel. Again, your experience with 617 engines may differ, and I can't debate that since I no longer own any 617's. Maybe it works great on those, but on the OM60x, no freaking way.
(12-26-2009, 07:09 AM)ForcedInduction As has been said before, the ALDA is just an emissions device. It has no importance to tuning other than preventing smoke in low boost and high throttle conditions.
This is not true. The ALDA also makes the throttle action more linear, as described above. This is critical because the transmission vac signal is derived entirely based on throttle position, not engine load as on a gas engine. And the VCV on the side of the OM60x IP does not work well at all when it's tweaked... it's designed to be set to the max throttle linkage position only (i.e., you can't tweak it in either direction to tailor shift quality to your liking). When the VCV is anywhere outside the factory-specified setting, it results is screwy shifting, Been there, done that too. Again, the 617 has a totally different VCV setup on the MW pumps so maybe you have adjustments which work on an MW-fueled 617.
(12-26-2009, 07:09 AM)ForcedInductionQuote:*shrug* Myna doesn't do it,Have you actually watched a myna-powered video?
True, they do smoke, but they also have the ALDA installed to try and compensate. And those are all massively modified engines with enormous turbos, usually making double to triple stock rated power. It's not a valid comparison against a stock engine with stock injection pump. Stock turbos spool up far quicker which is why they normally don't smoke much, if at all. I wonder how the cars in those videos would perform with their ALDAs removed.
How about a video of a car in the USA that went from stock performance to much faster than stock, just by removing the ALDA?
Dave M.
Boise, ID, USA
1997 E420 - 149kmi (Bugeyes)
1994 E420 - 136kmi (Blondie)
1994 E500 - 116kmi (Q-ship)
1992 500E - 179kmi (Mach 5)
1987 300D - 330kmi (Sportline Stage 2)
Click here for my website!
12-26-2009, 06:58 PM
#19
(12-26-2009, 05:41 PM)gsxr Again, your experience with 617 engines may differ, and I can't debate that since I no longer own any 617's. Maybe it works great on those, but on the OM60x, no freaking way.The ALDA-less M-pump on my 300D works great without one.
Quote:The ALDA also makes the throttle action more linear, as described above.The opposite is true. Without an ALDA there is no throttle % to fuel quantity change. With an ALDA the fuel quantity will increase with boost, holding the accelerator steady will result in additional acceleration as boost builds.
Quote:This is critical because the transmission vac signal is derived entirely based on throttle position, not engine load as on a gas engine.No. Thats exactly what the vacuum amplifier on 84+ models does, compensate for engine load.
Quote:And the VCV...designed to be set to the max throttle linkage position only (i.e., you can't tweak it in either direction to tailor shift quality to your liking).It is on all the engines.
Quote:When the VCV is anywhere outside the factory-specified setting, it results is screwy shifting,I solved shifting by adding a 0.7mm leak to vent orifice.
Quote:True, they do smoke, but they also have the ALDA installed to try and compensate.They almost have to since they are injecting almost 3x the fuel quantity and they can't really teach the buyers how to drive. So much fuel all at once could quench the flame front.
Quote:Stock turbos spool up far quicker which is why they normally don't smoke much, if at all....or need the ALDA, especially with the K26 on the 617 and K24 on the 603.
Quote:How about a video of a car in the USA that went from stock performance to much faster than stock, just by removing the ALDA?Does changing to an injection pump that never had one count?
ForcedInduction
12-26-2009, 06:58 PM
#19
(12-26-2009, 05:41 PM)gsxr Again, your experience with 617 engines may differ, and I can't debate that since I no longer own any 617's. Maybe it works great on those, but on the OM60x, no freaking way.The ALDA-less M-pump on my 300D works great without one.
Quote:The ALDA also makes the throttle action more linear, as described above.The opposite is true. Without an ALDA there is no throttle % to fuel quantity change. With an ALDA the fuel quantity will increase with boost, holding the accelerator steady will result in additional acceleration as boost builds.
Quote:This is critical because the transmission vac signal is derived entirely based on throttle position, not engine load as on a gas engine.No. Thats exactly what the vacuum amplifier on 84+ models does, compensate for engine load.
Quote:And the VCV...designed to be set to the max throttle linkage position only (i.e., you can't tweak it in either direction to tailor shift quality to your liking).It is on all the engines.
Quote:When the VCV is anywhere outside the factory-specified setting, it results is screwy shifting,I solved shifting by adding a 0.7mm leak to vent orifice.
Quote:True, they do smoke, but they also have the ALDA installed to try and compensate.They almost have to since they are injecting almost 3x the fuel quantity and they can't really teach the buyers how to drive. So much fuel all at once could quench the flame front.
Quote:Stock turbos spool up far quicker which is why they normally don't smoke much, if at all....or need the ALDA, especially with the K26 on the 617 and K24 on the 603.
Quote:How about a video of a car in the USA that went from stock performance to much faster than stock, just by removing the ALDA?Does changing to an injection pump that never had one count?
12-26-2009, 09:39 PM
#20
I was wondering when you were going to show up here..
looks like trial by fire/flame
welcome on any account
as far as ALDA goes, on my 124 (OM603)
I took mine off, and I get a pretty big puff of black smoke
if I floor it off the line, but "flooring" it does not make it accelerate any faster
then starting with like 3/4 pedal, transitioning to full pedal when the boost
comes on, which is basically what the alda does for me
(limit fuel until boost arrives)
It did mess up my shifting behavior a bit but I was able to adjust it back in
but I am now at the limit of the cable adjustment.
I like the ALDA off configuration, I feel it gives me more "control"
however silly that seems.. and I also like being able to massively overfuel
on rare occasions where some asshat is tailgating me, then they get a
james bond style smokescreen.
I can see the benefit of the ALDA, but can understand why some people like to remove them..
and just remember black smoke = UN-burned fuel
and unburned fuel makes no horsepower, but mild overfueling does keep you on the safe side when trying to make power.
just my .02
cars
1991 W126 350SDL turbodiesel
1987 W124 E300D turbodiesel
1987 W126 300SDL turbodiesel
1984 W107 SL300D turbodiesel
1974 W115 /8 300D diesel
trucks
2001 Dodge RAM 3500 4x4 Cummins turbodiesel
boats
1974 Uniflite "Salty Dog" powered by
2x OM617.951 Mercedes Benz 5Cyl turbodiesels
oel_brenner
12-26-2009, 09:39 PM #20welcome gxsr...
I was wondering when you were going to show up here..
looks like trial by fire/flame
welcome on any account
as far as ALDA goes, on my 124 (OM603)
I took mine off, and I get a pretty big puff of black smoke
if I floor it off the line, but "flooring" it does not make it accelerate any faster
then starting with like 3/4 pedal, transitioning to full pedal when the boost
comes on, which is basically what the alda does for me
(limit fuel until boost arrives)
It did mess up my shifting behavior a bit but I was able to adjust it back in
but I am now at the limit of the cable adjustment.
I like the ALDA off configuration, I feel it gives me more "control"
however silly that seems.. and I also like being able to massively overfuel
on rare occasions where some asshat is tailgating me, then they get a
james bond style smokescreen.
I can see the benefit of the ALDA, but can understand why some people like to remove them..
and just remember black smoke = UN-burned fuel
and unburned fuel makes no horsepower, but mild overfueling does keep you on the safe side when trying to make power.
just my .02
cars
1991 W126 350SDL turbodiesel
1987 W124 E300D turbodiesel
1987 W126 300SDL turbodiesel
1984 W107 SL300D turbodiesel
1974 W115 /8 300D diesel
trucks
2001 Dodge RAM 3500 4x4 Cummins turbodiesel
boats
1974 Uniflite "Salty Dog" powered by
2x OM617.951 Mercedes Benz 5Cyl turbodiesels
12-27-2009, 06:51 AM
#21
(12-26-2009, 09:39 PM)oel_brenner but mild overfueling does keep you on the safe side when trying to make power.
G@ssers run cooler rich. Rich on Diesels causes high exhaust temperatures.
ForcedInduction
12-27-2009, 06:51 AM
#21
(12-26-2009, 09:39 PM)oel_brenner but mild overfueling does keep you on the safe side when trying to make power.
G@ssers run cooler rich. Rich on Diesels causes high exhaust temperatures.
12-27-2009, 11:56 AM
#22
Oel, thanks for the welcome!
Dave M.
Boise, ID, USA
1997 E420 - 149kmi (Bugeyes)
1994 E420 - 136kmi (Blondie)
1994 E500 - 116kmi (Q-ship)
1992 500E - 179kmi (Mach 5)
1987 300D - 330kmi (Sportline Stage 2)
Click here for my website!
Forced, you are still completely wrong about several of your claims, but I'm wasting my breath trying to e'splain it to you. I will happily concede that what you describe may work fine on a 123/126 with 617 engine, but when it comes to a 124/60x, it just doesn't - unless the pump is pretty far out of spec to begin with.
Oel, thanks for the welcome!
Dave M.
Boise, ID, USA
1997 E420 - 149kmi (Bugeyes)
1994 E420 - 136kmi (Blondie)
1994 E500 - 116kmi (Q-ship)
1992 500E - 179kmi (Mach 5)
1987 300D - 330kmi (Sportline Stage 2)
Click here for my website!
12-27-2009, 12:00 PM
#23
(12-27-2009, 11:56 AM)gsxr but when it comes to a 124/60x, it just doesn't - unless the pump is pretty far out of spec to begin with.
Then the difference is within the engine itself since it doesn't happen on my M-Pump equipped 300D.
ForcedInduction
12-27-2009, 12:00 PM
#23
(12-27-2009, 11:56 AM)gsxr but when it comes to a 124/60x, it just doesn't - unless the pump is pretty far out of spec to begin with.
Then the difference is within the engine itself since it doesn't happen on my M-Pump equipped 300D.
12-27-2009, 02:55 PM
#24
as far as an ALDA it doesn't add any fuel it just removes it until boost come on! On a MW there isn't as much adjustment they work just fine with out them! a small puff of black smoke!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-27-2009, 02:55 PM #24without a throttle body running a diesel lean just makes less power and heat!
as far as an ALDA it doesn't add any fuel it just removes it until boost come on! On a MW there isn't as much adjustment they work just fine with out them! a small puff of black smoke!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
12-28-2009, 10:46 AM
#25
(12-27-2009, 02:55 PM)willbhere4u running a diesel lean just makes less power and heat!Less heat. G@ssers run hot when lean.
ForcedInduction
12-28-2009, 10:46 AM
#25
(12-27-2009, 02:55 PM)willbhere4u running a diesel lean just makes less power and heat!Less heat. G@ssers run hot when lean.
12-30-2009, 12:13 AM
#27
But a hollowed out alda from the junkyard works good too.
This post was last modified: 12-30-2009, 12:14 AM by 300SD81.
Ich liebe meine Autos!
1981 Mercedes-Benz 300SD | 156K Miles | 2nd Owner | EGR Disabled [Removal Pending] | ALDA Removed | Straight Pipes | GT2256V??? | Laser Interceptor | Engine swap over summer, hopefully with GT2256V attached...
1981 Mercedes-Benz 300SD | Odo Stopped at 160K (at least 50K more) | EGR Disabled | ALDA All The Way Out | Straight pipes | FM-870 Remote Start Alarm System | B100 Biodiesel | AC Fixed x2 | Trunk crushed in
| Retired to garage.Excessive speeding? It ain't excessive till I redline!
I got one of these to cover it up, http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/show...p?t=265883
But a hollowed out alda from the junkyard works good too.
Ich liebe meine Autos!
1981 Mercedes-Benz 300SD | 156K Miles | 2nd Owner | EGR Disabled [Removal Pending] | ALDA Removed | Straight Pipes | GT2256V??? | Laser Interceptor | Engine swap over summer, hopefully with GT2256V attached...
1981 Mercedes-Benz 300SD | Odo Stopped at 160K (at least 50K more) | EGR Disabled | ALDA All The Way Out | Straight pipes | FM-870 Remote Start Alarm System | B100 Biodiesel | AC Fixed x2 | Trunk crushed in
| Retired to garage.Excessive speeding? It ain't excessive till I redline!
12-30-2009, 12:15 AM
#28
(12-30-2009, 12:10 AM)kmaser What do you cover or replace the alda housing with once you remove it
Nothing. Its just a shaft and it has its own seal so nothing will get in.
ForcedInduction
12-30-2009, 12:15 AM
#28
(12-30-2009, 12:10 AM)kmaser What do you cover or replace the alda housing with once you remove it
Nothing. Its just a shaft and it has its own seal so nothing will get in.
12-30-2009, 07:10 AM
#29
Quote:What do you cover or replace the alda housing with once you remove it....is there a rod sticking up once removed. This is on an OM617A MW pump.
I have a cap I made from 6061-T6 (looks just like the one in link) for my MW, PM me your address and I will send it to you.
This post was last modified: 12-30-2009, 07:11 AM by Rudolf_Diesel.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
12-30-2009, 07:10 AM #29Quote:What do you cover or replace the alda housing with once you remove it....is there a rod sticking up once removed. This is on an OM617A MW pump.
I have a cap I made from 6061-T6 (looks just like the one in link) for my MW, PM me your address and I will send it to you.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
01-01-2010, 03:31 PM
#30
I am pulling the ALDA off of my OM617a MW pump and was wondering if someone knows whether the shaft that is sticking up is pushed down for more fuel or if the spring holds it up at the full fuel position ? Looking at the ALDA it would seem that the boost pressure would push down on the shaft for more fuel yet you turn the screw on the ALDA out for more fuel therefore removing spring pressure ?
ForcedInduction
01-01-2010, 06:29 PM
#31
The shaft goes in to reduce fuel, out to increase.
Attached Files
Image(s)
![[Image: 617mw.jpg]](http://www.jorotek.com/617mw.jpg)
12-02-2010, 04:53 PM
#33
(12-02-2010, 04:36 PM)JoRoTeK What do I do with the plastic line that went to the alda after I remove the alda? Can it be used for a boost gauge?
that's where mine is. From the intake manifold across the engine bay through the firewall by driver's pedals and onto the dash.
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
(12-02-2010, 04:36 PM)JoRoTeK What do I do with the plastic line that went to the alda after I remove the alda? Can it be used for a boost gauge?
that's where mine is. From the intake manifold across the engine bay through the firewall by driver's pedals and onto the dash.
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
12-02-2010, 09:24 PM
#34
(12-02-2010, 04:53 PM)larsalan(12-02-2010, 04:36 PM)JoRoTeK What do I do with the plastic line that went to the alda after I remove the alda? Can it be used for a boost gauge?
that's where mine is. From the intake manifold across the engine bay through the firewall by driver's pedals and onto the dash.
I know where it is. I'm asking what do I do with the plastic line AFTER I remove the alda. And if nothing else, can that line be used to run a boost gauge or plug it up or what?
(12-02-2010, 04:53 PM)larsalan(12-02-2010, 04:36 PM)JoRoTeK What do I do with the plastic line that went to the alda after I remove the alda? Can it be used for a boost gauge?
that's where mine is. From the intake manifold across the engine bay through the firewall by driver's pedals and onto the dash.
I know where it is. I'm asking what do I do with the plastic line AFTER I remove the alda. And if nothing else, can that line be used to run a boost gauge or plug it up or what?
12-02-2010, 10:03 PM
#35
then attach a hollow tube like a hose, they come with boost gauges or use the one you have, and connect it to the place where you want to measure the pressure. The intake, remember?
a tube is a tube, right? I don't even understand the problem. Except that the one you have will probably not be long enough to reach the interior.
If you don't run it inside to a gauge you might want to plug it.
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
^ well, think about what you want to measure. The pressure in the intake, right?
then attach a hollow tube like a hose, they come with boost gauges or use the one you have, and connect it to the place where you want to measure the pressure. The intake, remember?
a tube is a tube, right? I don't even understand the problem. Except that the one you have will probably not be long enough to reach the interior.
If you don't run it inside to a gauge you might want to plug it.
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
12-02-2010, 10:29 PM
#36
(12-02-2010, 10:03 PM)larsalan ^ well, think about what you want to measure. The pressure in the intake, right?
then attach a hollow tube like a hose, they come with boost gauges or use the one you have, and connect it to the place where you want to measure the pressure. The intake, remember?
a tube is a tube, right? I don't even understand the problem. Except that the one you have will probably not be long enough to reach the interior.
If you don't run it inside to a gauge you might want to plug it.
I guess I should have just asked:
"What do I do with the line after the alda is gone?"
(12-02-2010, 10:03 PM)larsalan ^ well, think about what you want to measure. The pressure in the intake, right?
then attach a hollow tube like a hose, they come with boost gauges or use the one you have, and connect it to the place where you want to measure the pressure. The intake, remember?
a tube is a tube, right? I don't even understand the problem. Except that the one you have will probably not be long enough to reach the interior.
If you don't run it inside to a gauge you might want to plug it.
I guess I should have just asked:
"What do I do with the line after the alda is gone?"
12-02-2010, 10:45 PM
#37
(12-02-2010, 10:29 PM)JoRoTeK I guess I should have just asked:Plug it, or hook a boost gauge to it.
"What do I do with the line after the alda is gone?"
Simple.
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
(12-02-2010, 10:29 PM)JoRoTeK I guess I should have just asked:Plug it, or hook a boost gauge to it.
"What do I do with the line after the alda is gone?"
Simple.
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
12-03-2010, 01:30 AM
#38
when a pump is "weal" it might be a leaking ALDA.
The seal on the shaft of the ALDA leaks and the pump sees no boost (or only partially).
Trans: the bowden cable is one thing but for tuned engines the modulating (hydraulic) pressure should be increased to prevent flaring.
How to measure and modify is somewhere in an old post.
Tom
Hi,
when a pump is "weal" it might be a leaking ALDA.
The seal on the shaft of the ALDA leaks and the pump sees no boost (or only partially).
Trans: the bowden cable is one thing but for tuned engines the modulating (hydraulic) pressure should be increased to prevent flaring.
How to measure and modify is somewhere in an old post.
Tom
12-03-2010, 02:28 PM
#39
(12-03-2010, 01:30 AM)tomnik Hi,
when a pump is "weal" it might be a leaking ALDA.
The seal on the shaft of the ALDA leaks and the pump sees no boost (or only partially).
Trans: the bowden cable is one thing but for tuned engines the modulating (hydraulic) pressure should be increased to prevent flaring.
How to measure and modify is somewhere in an old post.
Tom
I was under the impression that with the ALDA removed, there would be no worries about a leaking ALDA. On another note...what does "weal" mean?
This post was last modified: 12-03-2010, 02:30 PM by JoRoTeK.
(12-03-2010, 01:30 AM)tomnik Hi,
when a pump is "weal" it might be a leaking ALDA.
The seal on the shaft of the ALDA leaks and the pump sees no boost (or only partially).
Trans: the bowden cable is one thing but for tuned engines the modulating (hydraulic) pressure should be increased to prevent flaring.
How to measure and modify is somewhere in an old post.
Tom
I was under the impression that with the ALDA removed, there would be no worries about a leaking ALDA. On another note...what does "weal" mean?
12-03-2010, 03:10 PM
#40
(12-03-2010, 02:28 PM)JoRoTeKI think "weak" is what he ment(12-03-2010, 01:30 AM)tomnik Hi,
when a pump is "weal" it might be a leaking ALDA.
The seal on the shaft of the ALDA leaks and the pump sees no boost (or only partially).
Trans: the bowden cable is one thing but for tuned engines the modulating (hydraulic) pressure should be increased to prevent flaring.
How to measure and modify is somewhere in an old post.
Tom
I was under the impression that with the ALDA removed, there would be no worries about a leaking ALDA. On another note...what does "weal" mean?
This post was last modified: 12-03-2010, 03:13 PM by willbhere4u.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-03-2010, 03:10 PM #40[/quote]
(12-03-2010, 02:28 PM)JoRoTeKI think "weak" is what he ment(12-03-2010, 01:30 AM)tomnik Hi,
when a pump is "weal" it might be a leaking ALDA.
The seal on the shaft of the ALDA leaks and the pump sees no boost (or only partially).
Trans: the bowden cable is one thing but for tuned engines the modulating (hydraulic) pressure should be increased to prevent flaring.
How to measure and modify is somewhere in an old post.
Tom
I was under the impression that with the ALDA removed, there would be no worries about a leaking ALDA. On another note...what does "weal" mean?
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
12-04-2010, 04:38 AM
#42
I like the idea of everything works as it should, even when modyfied.
If you rev the engine to approxematly 1500 rpm, the rpm will increase when the boost comes, But I think it does`nt do that W/O ALDA, ig I`m right, that would be a very small advantage with removal.
I like the idea of everything works as it should, even when modyfied.
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