My OM617 Build
My OM617 Build
04-02-2012, 05:20 PM
#51
(04-02-2012, 09:38 AM)Simpler=Better I'm sreiously considering putting this into a Wrangler instead, IF I can find a cheap Wrangler. There's a CJ5 up here for $1k, no top.why?
carlitosgy6
04-02-2012, 05:20 PM #51(04-02-2012, 09:38 AM)Simpler=Better I'm sreiously considering putting this into a Wrangler instead, IF I can find a cheap Wrangler. There's a CJ5 up here for $1k, no top.why?
04-02-2012, 07:44 PM
#53
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
04-02-2012, 07:44 PM #53I already have a DD p/u. My '98 Ranger is smoother than the 89 ever will be, get good mileage, always starts, and has an extended cab. Not to mention functioning A/C, etc. It would be cool to have a little jeep with a 140-160HP om617 under the hood. I found a 92 Wrangler with no motor today on CL for $600, comes with paperwork
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
04-03-2012, 08:36 AM
#54
http://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/2924221188.html
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
04-03-2012, 08:36 AM #54What's a good price to offer? He's asking 600, no plow, no doors, no rear gear.
http://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/2924221188.html
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
04-05-2012, 11:50 AM
#55
Mb 1984 w201 om603 swap.
Mb 1986 w201 190E 2.3-16v
Mb 2004 w203 C230k
George3soccer
04-05-2012, 11:50 AM #55Not a bad idea, my brother has been tossing aroudn throwing a 617 into his TJ. I am trying to gather more info on tranny adapters,a nd if anyone has done any swaps like this to a TJ.
Mb 1984 w201 om603 swap.
Mb 1986 w201 190E 2.3-16v
Mb 2004 w203 C230k
04-05-2012, 12:44 PM
#56
There are $355 kits to adapt the 617 to a Jeep trans, using the jeep flywheel and starter. http://www.mercedesdiesel4x4.com/
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
04-05-2012, 12:44 PM #56The jeep was garbage, and the guy upped his price to $2k as is, $600 if it's already parted out..."I can get like $3500 for the parts." good luck buddy.
There are $355 kits to adapt the 617 to a Jeep trans, using the jeep flywheel and starter. http://www.mercedesdiesel4x4.com/
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
04-09-2012, 09:49 PM
#57
![[Image: nops2.jpg]](http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/4153/nops2.jpg)
![[Image: nops1.jpg]](http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/2899/nops1.jpg)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
04-09-2012, 09:49 PM #57Fun fact: When you remove the power steering bracket, the dipstick support and fuel filter bolt right up where the old PS bracket was
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
04-12-2012, 08:47 AM
#58
![[Image: sanden1.jpg]](http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/5186/sanden1.jpg)
![[Image: sanden2.jpg]](http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/3963/sanden2.jpg)
![[Image: sanden3.jpg]](http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/2554/sanden3.jpg)
![[Image: sanden4.jpg]](http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/7320/sanden4.jpg)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
04-12-2012, 08:47 AM #58Mocked up some base brackets for the Sanden A/C compressor. My parts truck has paid for itself
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
04-14-2012, 09:54 PM
#59
![[Image: clutch1.jpg]](http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/3985/clutch1.jpg)
![[Image: clutch2j.jpg]](http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/1114/clutch2j.jpg)
![[Image: clutch3.jpg]](http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/6229/clutch3.jpg)
![[Image: clutch4.jpg]](http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/7338/clutch4.jpg)
![[Image: clutch5.jpg]](http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/3605/clutch5.jpg)
![[Image: clutch6.jpg]](http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/9162/clutch6.jpg)
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
04-14-2012, 09:54 PM #59
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
04-14-2012, 10:33 PM
#60
(04-12-2012, 08:47 AM)Simpler=Better Mocked up some base brackets for the Sanden A/C compressor. My parts truck has paid for itself
I going to make a suggestion, if you haven't decided, that you tighten the Sanden's belts by a tensioner pulley instead of the Sanden itself.
.
(04-14-2012, 09:54 PM)Simpler=Better ...
Nice and Interesting solution. Are you going to make an extended adapter plate to make up for that thickness?
.
This post was last modified: 04-14-2012, 10:36 PM by DeliveryValve.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
04-14-2012, 10:33 PM #60(04-12-2012, 08:47 AM)Simpler=Better Mocked up some base brackets for the Sanden A/C compressor. My parts truck has paid for itself
I going to make a suggestion, if you haven't decided, that you tighten the Sanden's belts by a tensioner pulley instead of the Sanden itself.
.
(04-14-2012, 09:54 PM)Simpler=Better ...
Nice and Interesting solution. Are you going to make an extended adapter plate to make up for that thickness?
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
04-14-2012, 10:55 PM
#61
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
04-14-2012, 10:55 PM #61Did you delete the vacuum pump? what are you going to run you break booster/shut off valve with?
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
04-15-2012, 11:24 AM
#62
The merc flywheel sticks out a little, and the ford bellhousing is pretty deep. I will probably be able to get away with a 1/4" or 1/2" plate. I have an old sheet of both on hand
I'm going to run an electric vacuum pump from an F350, they're ~$75. Ideally the shutoff will be a good old fashioned choke cable. I might swap in a bigger master cylinder for manual brakes as well.
Locating the pilot bear is going to be fun, the transmission weighs a good 150#, it has an integrated transfer case
This post was last modified: 04-15-2012, 11:28 AM by Simpler=Better.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
04-15-2012, 11:24 AM #62I was going to put the compressor on a pivot to tighten the belts, any reason I shouldn't?
The merc flywheel sticks out a little, and the ford bellhousing is pretty deep. I will probably be able to get away with a 1/4" or 1/2" plate. I have an old sheet of both on hand
I'm going to run an electric vacuum pump from an F350, they're ~$75. Ideally the shutoff will be a good old fashioned choke cable. I might swap in a bigger master cylinder for manual brakes as well.
Locating the pilot bear is going to be fun, the transmission weighs a good 150#, it has an integrated transfer case
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
04-17-2012, 02:09 AM
#63
(04-15-2012, 11:24 AM)Simpler=Better I was going to put the compressor on a pivot to tighten the belts, any reason I shouldn't?
...
My reason is you will never really get it tightened. You may think it's tight, but eventually it will loosen up. Having a tensioner pulley really does wonders on a heavily loaded A/C belt and with added durability on the compressor's fixed brackets.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
04-17-2012, 02:09 AM #63(04-15-2012, 11:24 AM)Simpler=Better I was going to put the compressor on a pivot to tighten the belts, any reason I shouldn't?
...
My reason is you will never really get it tightened. You may think it's tight, but eventually it will loosen up. Having a tensioner pulley really does wonders on a heavily loaded A/C belt and with added durability on the compressor's fixed brackets.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
04-17-2012, 07:54 AM
#64
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
04-17-2012, 07:54 AM #64Cool. I'll yank a junkyard serpentine tensioner sometime, and beef up the bracket.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
04-17-2012, 12:55 PM
#65
(04-17-2012, 07:54 AM)Simpler=Better Cool. I'll yank a junkyard serpentine tensioner sometime, and beef up the bracket.
I think something like this would work well. This is from a Honda and then you can get a V-Belt style pulley in place of the ribbed pulley if you are going use a V-Belt.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
04-17-2012, 12:55 PM #65(04-17-2012, 07:54 AM)Simpler=Better Cool. I'll yank a junkyard serpentine tensioner sometime, and beef up the bracket.
I think something like this would work well. This is from a Honda and then you can get a V-Belt style pulley in place of the ribbed pulley if you are going use a V-Belt.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
04-17-2012, 01:59 PM
#66
![[Image: %24%28KGrHqYOKpsE5WTwm%29v8BOd2TO0EzQ~~60_58.JPG]](http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Ford-Serpintine-Belt-Tensioner-/00/s/NzY4WDEwMjQ=/%24%28KGrHqYOKpsE5WTwm%29v8BOd2TO0EzQ~~60_58.JPG)
This post was last modified: 04-17-2012, 02:01 PM by Simpler=Better.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
04-17-2012, 01:59 PM #66I was thinking of welding on a bracket for an auto tensioner from a serpentine system to press on the back of the vbelt pulley
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
04-17-2012, 02:08 PM
#67
(04-17-2012, 01:59 PM)Simpler=Better I was thinking of welding on a bracket for an auto tensioner from a serpentine system to press on the back of the vbelt pulley
..
You may have to test that theory, but I think the loading is different on a V-Belt vs serpentine. So I think the spring tensioner will not be sufficient to holding the v-belt down. That's why I think a fixed slider bolt tensioner would be better equipped to handle the the load.
.
The other thing about using a serpentine spring tensioner is I don't think a V-Belt is made to also bend in the other direction. This will definitely shorten the life of a V-belt by allowing it to quickly crack on the underside "V" once it gets older. Keeping the V-belt the same orientation will allow a longer service life.
.
This post was last modified: 04-17-2012, 02:36 PM by DeliveryValve.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
04-17-2012, 02:08 PM #67(04-17-2012, 01:59 PM)Simpler=Better I was thinking of welding on a bracket for an auto tensioner from a serpentine system to press on the back of the vbelt pulley
..
You may have to test that theory, but I think the loading is different on a V-Belt vs serpentine. So I think the spring tensioner will not be sufficient to holding the v-belt down. That's why I think a fixed slider bolt tensioner would be better equipped to handle the the load.
.
The other thing about using a serpentine spring tensioner is I don't think a V-Belt is made to also bend in the other direction. This will definitely shorten the life of a V-belt by allowing it to quickly crack on the underside "V" once it gets older. Keeping the V-belt the same orientation will allow a longer service life.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
04-17-2012, 09:27 PM
#68
This post was last modified: 04-17-2012, 09:29 PM by willbhere4u.
Attached Files
Image(s)1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
04-17-2012, 09:27 PM #68a lot of people that do the swaps get an electric vacuum valve and wire it in to the standard ignition switch so its close with power and open with out
Attached Files
Image(s)1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
04-18-2012, 08:00 AM
#69
Side note, you can use the 6 or so vacuum valves from a junk climate control module. That's how I shut off my car when the ignition assembly bit the dust.
This post was last modified: 04-18-2012, 08:01 AM by Simpler=Better.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
04-18-2012, 08:00 AM #69Thanks for the advice guys, I'll go with the traditional belt tightening setup. As for the shutoff, I grew up driving diesel tractors with STOP knobs....so you can see where I'm coming from on the shutoff idea...
Side note, you can use the 6 or so vacuum valves from a junk climate control module. That's how I shut off my car when the ignition assembly bit the dust.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
04-18-2012, 10:09 PM
#70
1. Push it in stops the engine
2. Neutral position engine runs
3. If you pull it out one position its the glow plugs for as long as you hold it
4. Then if you pull it one more position it operated the starter
The only thing the key dose on these cars is lock/unlock the steering and turn the electrical system on. You can remove the key lock up the car and leave it running as long as you want. I had one with an air leak in the injection system that was a bear to start even warm so I would take it to the store and leave it running with the doors locked no key and no steering!
This post was last modified: 04-18-2012, 10:21 PM by willbhere4u.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
04-18-2012, 10:09 PM #70Older Mercedes from the 60's.70's had what they called a gorilla knob on the dash.
1. Push it in stops the engine
2. Neutral position engine runs
3. If you pull it out one position its the glow plugs for as long as you hold it
4. Then if you pull it one more position it operated the starter
The only thing the key dose on these cars is lock/unlock the steering and turn the electrical system on. You can remove the key lock up the car and leave it running as long as you want. I had one with an air leak in the injection system that was a bear to start even warm so I would take it to the store and leave it running with the doors locked no key and no steering!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
04-19-2012, 08:32 AM
#71
(04-18-2012, 10:09 PM)willbhere4u Older Mercedes from the 60's.70's had what they called a gorilla knob on the dash.
1. Push it in stops the engine
2. Neutral position engine runs
3. If you pull it out one position its the glow plugs for as long as you hold it
4. Then if you pull it one more position it operated the starter
The only thing the key dose on these cars is lock/unlock the steering and turn the electrical system on. You can remove the key lock up the car and leave it running as long as you want. I had one with an air leak in the injection system that was a bear to start even warm so I would take it to the store and leave it running with the doors locked no key and no steering!
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
04-19-2012, 08:32 AM #71Oh that's classy. I want one!
(04-18-2012, 10:09 PM)willbhere4u Older Mercedes from the 60's.70's had what they called a gorilla knob on the dash.
1. Push it in stops the engine
2. Neutral position engine runs
3. If you pull it out one position its the glow plugs for as long as you hold it
4. Then if you pull it one more position it operated the starter
The only thing the key dose on these cars is lock/unlock the steering and turn the electrical system on. You can remove the key lock up the car and leave it running as long as you want. I had one with an air leak in the injection system that was a bear to start even warm so I would take it to the store and leave it running with the doors locked no key and no steering!
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
04-19-2012, 12:06 PM
#72
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
04-19-2012, 12:06 PM #72200d,220d,240d's had them until about the mid 1970's
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
07-01-2012, 02:43 PM
#73
also why mess with electric pumps when you can use hydrolic power? http://www.vancopbs.com/
there is a MB part number for a stamped steel part to cover the hole when the vacuum pump is not used. First one I spotted was on a nonturbo OM617 used in a 404 UNIMOG diesel coversion.
also why mess with electric pumps when you can use hydrolic power? http://www.vancopbs.com/
08-03-2012, 09:08 AM
#74
This post was last modified: 08-03-2012, 09:09 AM by Simpler=Better.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-03-2012, 09:08 AM #74She's drained, strapped to a pallet (by the motor mounts & block, not the pan) and all crated up. I'll be "pausing" my project for a little while, for $20/month it will be stored safe and sound in a secure / insured warehouse
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
02-13-2013, 10:11 PM
#75
I'm thinking about maybe starting my swap sometime in the coming months or years, whenever I find time from some of my other projects lol
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-13-2013, 10:11 PM #75Okay explain for me please your flywheel adaptor. I see what looks like an auto flywheel with a thing bolted to it with what looks like the ford flywheel bolted to that? Or am I mistaken?
I'm thinking about maybe starting my swap sometime in the coming months or years, whenever I find time from some of my other projects lol
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
02-13-2013, 10:53 PM
#76
What transmission will you be running? An MD05 or an FM146?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-13-2013, 10:53 PM #76That was a shortcut attempt I made, I'd recommend getting a different flywheel and drill it out. A spacer can work, you have to make it thicker than I did-there wasn't nearly enough grabbing material looking back on it.
What transmission will you be running? An MD05 or an FM146?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
02-13-2013, 11:14 PM
#77
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-13-2013, 11:14 PM #77I have no idea, whatever the 5-speed option was in '84 when the truck was new lol. The main reasons I want to do the swap are 1 diesel is awesome, 2 ranger is way lighter than the Mercedes, 3 5-speed is good, 4 pickup will be better for farm work than the w123.
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
02-14-2013, 10:27 AM
#78
The Ranger Station will give you all the info you could ever want:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_lib...sion.shtml
I DD a 4cyl gas ranger, 2wd. It's awesome-it never breaks down, is comfortable, and cheap.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-14-2013, 10:27 AM #78What was the original ranger engine and is it 4wd?
The Ranger Station will give you all the info you could ever want:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_lib...sion.shtml
I DD a 4cyl gas ranger, 2wd. It's awesome-it never breaks down, is comfortable, and cheap.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
02-14-2013, 12:31 PM
#79
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-14-2013, 12:31 PM #79Its 2wd and it has the 2.3 litre 4 cylinder gasser
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
02-14-2013, 01:22 PM
#80
You have a Toyo Koygo...don't know if I have the data for that guy. I'll take a look see.
I should have blueprints of the merc mounts confirmed in the next couple of weeks
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-14-2013, 01:22 PM #80Why would you get rid of that motor? With pistons/rods/turbo you can hit 250-300 hp.
You have a Toyo Koygo...don't know if I have the data for that guy. I'll take a look see.
I should have blueprints of the merc mounts confirmed in the next couple of weeks
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
02-14-2013, 02:35 PM
#81
Timing belt that I got half off and lost interest in changing
This post was last modified: 02-14-2013, 02:40 PM by sassparilla_kid.
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-14-2013, 02:35 PM #81Pretty much any gasser mods are illegal in Kalifornistan due to smog crap, and also the truck has been de-tuned so much to pass smog that it only gets like 12miles/gallon. Also it has a timing belt that is impossible to change
Timing belt that I got half off and lost interest in changing
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
02-14-2013, 10:39 PM
#82
(02-14-2013, 02:35 PM)sassparilla_kid Pretty much any gasser mods are illegal in Kalifornistan due to smog crap, and also the truck has been de-tuned so much to pass smog that it only gets like 12miles/gallon. Also it has a timing belt that is impossible to change
Timing belt that I got half off and lost interest in changing
What kind of mileage were you getting with this 617
(02-14-2013, 02:35 PM)sassparilla_kid Pretty much any gasser mods are illegal in Kalifornistan due to smog crap, and also the truck has been de-tuned so much to pass smog that it only gets like 12miles/gallon. Also it has a timing belt that is impossible to change
Timing belt that I got half off and lost interest in changing
What kind of mileage were you getting with this 617
02-14-2013, 11:12 PM
#83
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-14-2013, 11:12 PM #83I don't know I don't have any extras to swap yet lol
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
02-15-2013, 10:01 AM
#84
(02-14-2013, 02:35 PM)sassparilla_kid Pretty much any gasser mods are illegal in Kalifornistan due to smog crap, and also the truck has been de-tuned so much to pass smog that it only gets like 12miles/gallon. Also it has a timing belt that is impossible to change
Timing belt that I got half off and lost interest in changing
Ah well, we won't divulge into invisible offroad mods today :p
The timing belt is mad easy once you pull the front main pulley and radiator. Sounds like a PITA, but really isn't With the right tool a new belt is on in around 2 hours (plus tstat gasket etc.) Or you can be like me and snap a neck off the heater T thingy, and wait a week for parts.
Do the 617 or 616. If i remember correctly, the trans bolt pattern hasn't changed-so when you blow up your toyo trans you can swap in a MD05-HD from a 2000s ranger and be ready to rock. All the gauges should be plug & play minus the tach
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-15-2013, 10:01 AM #84(02-14-2013, 02:35 PM)sassparilla_kid Pretty much any gasser mods are illegal in Kalifornistan due to smog crap, and also the truck has been de-tuned so much to pass smog that it only gets like 12miles/gallon. Also it has a timing belt that is impossible to change
Timing belt that I got half off and lost interest in changing
Ah well, we won't divulge into invisible offroad mods today :p
The timing belt is mad easy once you pull the front main pulley and radiator. Sounds like a PITA, but really isn't With the right tool a new belt is on in around 2 hours (plus tstat gasket etc.) Or you can be like me and snap a neck off the heater T thingy, and wait a week for parts.
Do the 617 or 616. If i remember correctly, the trans bolt pattern hasn't changed-so when you blow up your toyo trans you can swap in a MD05-HD from a 2000s ranger and be ready to rock. All the gauges should be plug & play minus the tach
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
02-15-2013, 03:18 PM
#85
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-15-2013, 03:18 PM #85Awesome. And yeah that damn pulley won't come off, it be stuck
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
02-15-2013, 03:40 PM
#86
(02-15-2013, 03:18 PM)sassparilla_kid Awesome. And yeah that damn pulley won't come off, it be stuck
Gotta rent a puller son
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-15-2013, 03:40 PM #86(02-15-2013, 03:18 PM)sassparilla_kid Awesome. And yeah that damn pulley won't come off, it be stuck
Gotta rent a puller son
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
02-15-2013, 05:14 PM
#87
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
02-15-2013, 05:14 PM #87Is there like a big nut holding it on or something?
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
02-15-2013, 08:35 PM
#88
Nice that it is a non interference engine because the timing belt had broken.
The next weekend we replaced the timing belt on his wife's KIA. Even without a stubborn bolt, that was much more difficult.
Edit: I think his is a 2.5L. I know it has 2 spark plugs per cylinder. Big pain changing the plug that's buried under the intake manifold.
This post was last modified: 02-15-2013, 08:42 PM by waz.
***********************************************
1993 300D 2.5L turbo. W124.128 2.5L 602.962
1991 350SD W126.134 Transplanted a 3.0L 603.961 into it.
I helped a friend change a timing belt on a ranger 4 cyl. We could not get the crank bolt off. The clutch would slip even doing everything we could to help keep the crank from turning. Not even after removing enough to use an impact wrench. We had to put a breaker bar on the bolt and use the starter (with a freshly charged batter) and gave it a 6" running start to hit the frame to break that bolt loose. After that, not a bad job.
Nice that it is a non interference engine because the timing belt had broken.
The next weekend we replaced the timing belt on his wife's KIA. Even without a stubborn bolt, that was much more difficult.
Edit: I think his is a 2.5L. I know it has 2 spark plugs per cylinder. Big pain changing the plug that's buried under the intake manifold.
***********************************************
1993 300D 2.5L turbo. W124.128 2.5L 602.962
1991 350SD W126.134 Transplanted a 3.0L 603.961 into it.
02-16-2013, 12:49 PM
#89
The starter and a breaker bar are the easiest way to get that off, there's no way you're doing it with elbow grease
I'd fix the 2.3 timing belt and get it to run then sell the motor running. Or ship it to me as a gift so I can build it into a 300hp monstarr
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-16-2013, 12:49 PM #89The 2.5 is exactly the same as the 2.3, it just has a stroked crank for the extra 200cc. 2.5s were made from 98-01.
The starter and a breaker bar are the easiest way to get that off, there's no way you're doing it with elbow grease
I'd fix the 2.3 timing belt and get it to run then sell the motor running. Or ship it to me as a gift so I can build it into a 300hp monstarr
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
08-13-2013, 08:27 AM
#91
Jeep I think would be way easier, anything that fit the 20ft long 4.0 will easily fit the 617.
what about a commanche?
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
so are you still looking for jeeps? or sticking with the ranger?
Jeep I think would be way easier, anything that fit the 20ft long 4.0 will easily fit the 617.
what about a commanche?
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
08-13-2013, 11:36 AM
#92
I've got a DJ5 frame/axles, a CJ5 body, SM465 with NP205 bolted to it, and my 617 in a crate. I'm finalizing my homebrew adapter, but progress is slow because I'm living in an apartment right now and the heep is at a buddy's house, out back in the woods. I can't have a project car on site (they will tow anything that looks dead) so things are still on hold.
Once I get the adapter finished up I'm hoping to weld up motor mounts and start slapping stuff together. It's going to be ungodly heavy but that's okay. ~1,000lbs wet for the engine/trans/TC. I want it to be a fun runaround vehicle that can jump a jersey wall if traffic gets bad
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-13-2013, 11:36 AM #92My DD is a gas Ranger, stickshift 2wd. It's awesome. 25mpg, does 65, had enough power to dolly an equal sized truck, nobody looks at it twice, and parts are laughably cheap. So the truck part is covered.
I've got a DJ5 frame/axles, a CJ5 body, SM465 with NP205 bolted to it, and my 617 in a crate. I'm finalizing my homebrew adapter, but progress is slow because I'm living in an apartment right now and the heep is at a buddy's house, out back in the woods. I can't have a project car on site (they will tow anything that looks dead) so things are still on hold.
Once I get the adapter finished up I'm hoping to weld up motor mounts and start slapping stuff together. It's going to be ungodly heavy but that's okay. ~1,000lbs wet for the engine/trans/TC. I want it to be a fun runaround vehicle that can jump a jersey wall if traffic gets bad
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
02-11-2014, 10:35 PM
#93
What are you working on?
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
02-11-2014, 10:35 PM #93Last post April of last year?!? I'm interested in the jeep thing. Lots of adapter kits available right. I need jeep for shitty pot hole roads in Chicago area. I feel like I'm driving in a 3rd world country here.
What are you working on?
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
02-11-2014, 11:21 PM
#94
So yeah, house is priority #1, then I can trailer my crap over to my own damn backyard and start pissing off the neighbors. I'm 100% OK with doing a backyard blocked-up-on-plywood build but I need the backyard before I can start doing all that.
This post was last modified: 02-11-2014, 11:24 PM by Simpler=Better.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-11-2014, 11:21 PM #94I'm working on finding a house. Last one we checked out was a straight up house of 1000 corpses. Trashed basement full of crap, blocked off stairs, randomly repainted rooms with crumbling plaster, jacket with 1993 hunting permit, bullet holes in windows, canned raw chicken in the basement, FRAMED SAD CLOWN PAINTING IN THE SHED, mysterious dark brown stain trail from front door to bathroom, creepy as hell. Oh yeah, no heat installed in the house, glass screw fuses, unknown septic condition....$200,000. Fuck MD real estate pricing.
So yeah, house is priority #1, then I can trailer my crap over to my own damn backyard and start pissing off the neighbors. I'm 100% OK with doing a backyard blocked-up-on-plywood build but I need the backyard before I can start doing all that.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
02-12-2014, 06:06 AM
#95
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
02-12-2014, 06:06 AM #95Good luck, glad you didn't get murdered by lurking monsters.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
02-12-2014, 06:24 AM
#96
(02-11-2014, 11:21 PM)Simpler=Better I'm working on finding a house. Last one we checked out was a straight up house of 1000 corpses. Trashed basement full of crap, blocked off stairs, randomly repainted rooms with crumbling plaster, jacket with 1993 hunting permit, bullet holes in windows, canned raw chicken in the basement, FRAMED SAD CLOWN PAINTING IN THE SHED, mysterious dark brown stain trail from front door to bathroom, creepy as hell. Oh yeah, no heat installed in the house, glass screw fuses, unknown septic condition....$200,000. Fuck MD real estate pricing.
So yeah, house is priority #1, then I can trailer my crap over to my own damn backyard and start pissing off the neighbors. I'm 100% OK with doing a backyard blocked-up-on-plywood build but I need the backyard before I can start doing all that.
No handcuffs through ring bolts in either the attic or basement? I like the sad clown touch, hahaha
Just looked at an 2 family house where way up in the unfinished attic via two narrow staircases was a fully finished tiny room with its own heat and power and lighting. No explanation for its purpose, not wired to either unit, on its own special little box. Light control was 3 staircases down in the basement.
Figure that's where they stashed either the help, or the inlaws
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(02-11-2014, 11:21 PM)Simpler=Better I'm working on finding a house. Last one we checked out was a straight up house of 1000 corpses. Trashed basement full of crap, blocked off stairs, randomly repainted rooms with crumbling plaster, jacket with 1993 hunting permit, bullet holes in windows, canned raw chicken in the basement, FRAMED SAD CLOWN PAINTING IN THE SHED, mysterious dark brown stain trail from front door to bathroom, creepy as hell. Oh yeah, no heat installed in the house, glass screw fuses, unknown septic condition....$200,000. Fuck MD real estate pricing.
So yeah, house is priority #1, then I can trailer my crap over to my own damn backyard and start pissing off the neighbors. I'm 100% OK with doing a backyard blocked-up-on-plywood build but I need the backyard before I can start doing all that.
No handcuffs through ring bolts in either the attic or basement? I like the sad clown touch, hahaha
Just looked at an 2 family house where way up in the unfinished attic via two narrow staircases was a fully finished tiny room with its own heat and power and lighting. No explanation for its purpose, not wired to either unit, on its own special little box. Light control was 3 staircases down in the basement.
Figure that's where they stashed either the help, or the inlaws
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
02-12-2014, 09:23 AM
#97
(02-12-2014, 06:24 AM)JB3(02-11-2014, 11:21 PM)Simpler=Better I'm working on finding a house. Last one we checked out was a straight up house of 1000 corpses. Trashed basement full of crap, blocked off stairs, randomly repainted rooms with crumbling plaster, jacket with 1993 hunting permit, bullet holes in windows, canned raw chicken in the basement, FRAMED SAD CLOWN PAINTING IN THE SHED, mysterious dark brown stain trail from front door to bathroom, creepy as hell. Oh yeah, no heat installed in the house, glass screw fuses, unknown septic condition....$200,000. Fuck MD real estate pricing.
So yeah, house is priority #1, then I can trailer my crap over to my own damn backyard and start pissing off the neighbors. I'm 100% OK with doing a backyard blocked-up-on-plywood build but I need the backyard before I can start doing all that.
No handcuffs through ring bolts in either the attic or basement? I like the sad clown touch, hahaha
Just looked at an 2 family house where way up in the unfinished attic via two narrow staircases was a fully finished tiny room with its own heat and power and lighting. No explanation for its purpose, not wired to either unit, on its own special little box. Light control was 3 staircases down in the basement.
Figure that's where they stashed either the help, or the inlaws
Sounds like a typical inlaw suite
The #1 house contender looks solid enough, but has a couple fixes that irk me-like the attic trane unit which is powered by a wire running up the side of the house to a junction box, then through the window, to it's own breaker box with 2x20A........?
1/2 yellowed CPVC through the whole house...yeah that's getting replaced with 1" PEX ASAP.
/rant
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-12-2014, 09:23 AM #97(02-12-2014, 06:24 AM)JB3(02-11-2014, 11:21 PM)Simpler=Better I'm working on finding a house. Last one we checked out was a straight up house of 1000 corpses. Trashed basement full of crap, blocked off stairs, randomly repainted rooms with crumbling plaster, jacket with 1993 hunting permit, bullet holes in windows, canned raw chicken in the basement, FRAMED SAD CLOWN PAINTING IN THE SHED, mysterious dark brown stain trail from front door to bathroom, creepy as hell. Oh yeah, no heat installed in the house, glass screw fuses, unknown septic condition....$200,000. Fuck MD real estate pricing.
So yeah, house is priority #1, then I can trailer my crap over to my own damn backyard and start pissing off the neighbors. I'm 100% OK with doing a backyard blocked-up-on-plywood build but I need the backyard before I can start doing all that.
No handcuffs through ring bolts in either the attic or basement? I like the sad clown touch, hahaha
Just looked at an 2 family house where way up in the unfinished attic via two narrow staircases was a fully finished tiny room with its own heat and power and lighting. No explanation for its purpose, not wired to either unit, on its own special little box. Light control was 3 staircases down in the basement.
Figure that's where they stashed either the help, or the inlaws
Sounds like a typical inlaw suite
The #1 house contender looks solid enough, but has a couple fixes that irk me-like the attic trane unit which is powered by a wire running up the side of the house to a junction box, then through the window, to it's own breaker box with 2x20A........?
1/2 yellowed CPVC through the whole house...yeah that's getting replaced with 1" PEX ASAP.
/rant
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
02-12-2014, 06:41 PM
#98
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
you need to come to sunny South Carolina. You can buy a brand new house in NE Columbia in a very, very nice sub-division, with a yard for $125K. That's 3 bedrooms, 2 baths, around 1,400SF or a hair more.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
08-08-2014, 02:53 PM
#99
X Y Dia (mm)
Pin 1 71.748 36.412 11.906 From 617 Rear Block Pattern LT2000_ver.dwg
Pin 2 -78.397 124.04 11.906 Same as 617 Rear Block Pattern.dwg
Starter 1 193.675 0 16.67
Starter 2 163.952 101.539 12.7
Starter Bore
617A-1 -75.222 170.689 12.7
617A-2 75.222 170.689 12.7
617A-3 -55.786 141.627 11.113
617A-4 57.11 141.627 11.113
617A-5 -91.716 8.12 11.113
617A-6 75.766 8.12 11.113
617A-7 -144.824 -87.711 11.113
617A-8 146.428 -84.733 11.113
617A-9 -62.24 -159.972 11.112
617A-10 79.721 -151.376 11.112
Center Bore 0 0 114.3
X(in) Y(in) Dia (mm)
Pin 1 -2.9166 5.091 Screenshot from other guy
Pin 2 2.8394 1.448 12?
Starter 1
Starter 2
Starter Bore
617A-1 -2.5475 6.813
617A-2 2.4055 6.804
617A-3 -2.0335 5.757
617A-4 2.374 5.6375
617A-5 -3.6155 0.5585
617A-6 3 0.343
617A-7 -5.848 -3.097
617A-8 5.638 -3.458
617A-9 -2.645 -6.079
617A-10 2.919 -5.949 12?
Center Bore 0 0
X(in) Y(in) Dia (mm)
Pin 1 -78.17 126.9 12.03 excel sheet with graph-dims from graph
Pin 2 70.98 39.1 12.03
Starter 1 132.71 102.65 13.23
Starter 2 167.68 3.49 13.23
Starter Bore 85.83
617A-1 -69.96 171.18 11.22
617A-2 56.37 174.57 11.22
617A-3 -55.87 144.7 11.63
617A-4 56.3 144.69 11.63
617A-5 -91.9 11.18 11.63
617A-6 76.27 11.19 11.63
617A-7 -145.9 -83.32 11.22
617A-8 146.18 -83.44 11.22
617A-9 -62.42 -156.38 11.22
617A-10 79.17 -148.89 11.22
Center Bore 0 0 318.08
X(in) Y(in) Dia (in)
Pin 1 -7.69 0 0.5 Old SBC scan. Pin centric
Pin 2 7.69 0 0.5
Crank 0 -2.32 3in?
SBC-1(top) 0 6.9 0.375-16?
SBC-2 -4.1 4.7 0.375-16?
SBC-3 4.1 4.7 0.375-16?
SBC-4 -7.8 1.88 0.375-16?
SBC-5 7.8 1.88 0.375-16?
SBC-6 -7.8 -1.88 0.375-16?
SBC-7 7.8 -1.88 0.375-16?
X(in) Y(in) Dia (in)
Pin 1 -7.69 2.32 0.5 Dude's SBC cad screencap
Pin 2 7.69 2.32 0.5 Crank centric
Crank 0 0 3in?
SBC-1(top) 0 9.22 0.375-16?
SBC-2 -4.1 7.02 0.375-16?
SBC-3 4.1 7.02 0.375-16?
SBC-4 -7.8 4.2 0.375-16?
SBC-5 7.8 4.2 0.375-16?
SBC-6 -7.8 0.44 0.375-16?
SBC-7 7.8 0.44 0.375-16?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-08-2014, 02:53 PM #99Poor formatting, but gets the data down:
X Y Dia (mm)
Pin 1 71.748 36.412 11.906 From 617 Rear Block Pattern LT2000_ver.dwg
Pin 2 -78.397 124.04 11.906 Same as 617 Rear Block Pattern.dwg
Starter 1 193.675 0 16.67
Starter 2 163.952 101.539 12.7
Starter Bore
617A-1 -75.222 170.689 12.7
617A-2 75.222 170.689 12.7
617A-3 -55.786 141.627 11.113
617A-4 57.11 141.627 11.113
617A-5 -91.716 8.12 11.113
617A-6 75.766 8.12 11.113
617A-7 -144.824 -87.711 11.113
617A-8 146.428 -84.733 11.113
617A-9 -62.24 -159.972 11.112
617A-10 79.721 -151.376 11.112
Center Bore 0 0 114.3
X(in) Y(in) Dia (mm)
Pin 1 -2.9166 5.091 Screenshot from other guy
Pin 2 2.8394 1.448 12?
Starter 1
Starter 2
Starter Bore
617A-1 -2.5475 6.813
617A-2 2.4055 6.804
617A-3 -2.0335 5.757
617A-4 2.374 5.6375
617A-5 -3.6155 0.5585
617A-6 3 0.343
617A-7 -5.848 -3.097
617A-8 5.638 -3.458
617A-9 -2.645 -6.079
617A-10 2.919 -5.949 12?
Center Bore 0 0
X(in) Y(in) Dia (mm)
Pin 1 -78.17 126.9 12.03 excel sheet with graph-dims from graph
Pin 2 70.98 39.1 12.03
Starter 1 132.71 102.65 13.23
Starter 2 167.68 3.49 13.23
Starter Bore 85.83
617A-1 -69.96 171.18 11.22
617A-2 56.37 174.57 11.22
617A-3 -55.87 144.7 11.63
617A-4 56.3 144.69 11.63
617A-5 -91.9 11.18 11.63
617A-6 76.27 11.19 11.63
617A-7 -145.9 -83.32 11.22
617A-8 146.18 -83.44 11.22
617A-9 -62.42 -156.38 11.22
617A-10 79.17 -148.89 11.22
Center Bore 0 0 318.08
X(in) Y(in) Dia (in)
Pin 1 -7.69 0 0.5 Old SBC scan. Pin centric
Pin 2 7.69 0 0.5
Crank 0 -2.32 3in?
SBC-1(top) 0 6.9 0.375-16?
SBC-2 -4.1 4.7 0.375-16?
SBC-3 4.1 4.7 0.375-16?
SBC-4 -7.8 1.88 0.375-16?
SBC-5 7.8 1.88 0.375-16?
SBC-6 -7.8 -1.88 0.375-16?
SBC-7 7.8 -1.88 0.375-16?
X(in) Y(in) Dia (in)
Pin 1 -7.69 2.32 0.5 Dude's SBC cad screencap
Pin 2 7.69 2.32 0.5 Crank centric
Crank 0 0 3in?
SBC-1(top) 0 9.22 0.375-16?
SBC-2 -4.1 7.02 0.375-16?
SBC-3 4.1 7.02 0.375-16?
SBC-4 -7.8 4.2 0.375-16?
SBC-5 7.8 4.2 0.375-16?
SBC-6 -7.8 0.44 0.375-16?
SBC-7 7.8 0.44 0.375-16?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
08-11-2014, 03:42 PM
#100
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
We got two houses for rent here in Ohio? Get you away from that those sassy east coast attitudes
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
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